Thanks for your positive comments. We all need it

A bit tougher to do but it’s not too bad. Heat control is a must

I know, I have a fan blowing over me keeping the fumes away but I know it’s not enough. I’m detoxing with charcoal for a month now

A lot of different things. First I used electrolysis. Using a plastic swimming pool to submerge the part in water with baking soda and using a battery charger and sacrificial metal to attract the rust off the part. Plenty of videos out there explaining it. But that not good if you have a huge part. Used of phosphate acid wire brush and a lot of elbow grease. You can buy it at Home Depot in the paint department and it’s labeled as metal / concrete prep. Works amazing but it’s still not easy. I used a lot of stuff labeled rust remover with little to no results and a bit expensive. Metal Rescue seems to be good but it takes a lot of applications. I made a solutions with citrus acid and Oxalic acid and it worked better but it’s how you applied it. I will have to make a video explaining how but every panel was a hit or miss. Of course you have to sand but you are removing metal. Has to be stable before you sand. Organisms have to be killed on the metal unfortunately they keep coming back unless it’s sealed Thanks I’ll try to make a video on it

@@ATfabNfix64I have heard if something called Ospho that seems to work pretty well and is long lasting.

I get it at eBay That is the easiest for me because I’m in California because everything is illegal here. 70/30 lead . I have found some at a yard sale one time. Eastwood is too expensive . Just have to have your eyes open. Some older restoration shops can help also

I see the paddle now!

I did use a wooden paddle . The rag or steel wool is to pre tin to prep for lead loading

Dangerous stuff. Ventilation is the key having a fan blowing the fumes away

I used Crisco all vegetable it worked really good and it’s less fatty LOL