Awesome video! I've probably watched 5 different videos on how to degree a cam and I could never get it. You explained it so simply that I got it half way through! Keep up the good work.

Absolutely love this video on the Roller cam and at least you do explain the difference between the flat tappet and Roller cams and how important it is to check not only the cam out just to be sure that the cam is in good condition and is what the cam manufacturer says it is.. then how important it is to degree a cam and be sure it is what it is suppose to be.. thanks again for awesome videos and information..

FINALLY !!!!!!!!! SOME ONE THAT EXPLAINS IT PROPERLY , THANK YOU....

Super...thank you. I must have missed the thrust button install. The degree wheel explanation was clear/concise...feel much better about installing my new cam!

Mind blown, step by step instructions and good information Two thumbs up

This must be one of the best instruction and educational channels out there. You Sir are very good at explaining engine basics! Thank you for taking time to make theese vids. Keep it up!

Great explanation !! I have a hard time understanding most of that stuff, you do a great job explaining to regular Joe’s.

Hi.this past wimter I wanted to do a project with my father he is 83 years old.when I was a kid he and I rebuilt a couple of ford 302's.we always rebuilt to stock. This time I wanted to do a s.b.c. for my 81 vette.you really help.me with this build. I cant say it enough you really helped. It had been a long time and things have changed. Well just put the engine in the car sweet really sweet. Thanks again. Mark

I watched a lot of videos trying to understand degreeing a cam and why. This one is by far the easiest to understand that i have watched.

Just luved it your delivery was good & your cam specs were actually exactly the same as my cam go figure. Made understanding everything so easy. Thnk u so much m8.

Lol I was tryin to watch some 383 stroker cam exhaust note videos and found this, watched it because it was fascinating AF.

The good thing is what he is taking his time to explain applies to all engines from chevy ford mopar amc etc. even imports.

You are very intelligent, your making me understand everything I need to know before i look into a cam for my ls1 thank you.

Love your explanation now I have a little bit of an understanding of a cam and how it works thankyou very much

Best and simplest instruction on everything period. This guys the man

I learned something new. I always thiught degree cam was different from straight up. But u actually installed it straight up then degreed it just to verify specs.

Finally got it. Thank you for throughly explaining.

No-one has done this better. Exceptional video for degreeing cams.

yes, he explains it very well..calm and collected

You answered my question about head cc in this video. Thanks I'll keep watching instead of asking stupid questions. Great videos thanks

thnxs man i finally got it after watching it about 5 times. the cam spec sheet vid really helped thou!

Thank you so much professor now I could drop a cam in my Mustang really helpful now I know what size to use by going off the specs of my heads

Thanks for these videos. Really informative and easy to follow.

Great work and explanation,,,,,am going to build my own engine with ur great videos

I've only rebuilt a handful of engines, but after doing the fist one and dialing in the cam, I quickly realized what a pain in the ass it was having ALL the pistons in and doing this. From the second on I only put in #1 piston and then dial in the cam. It is, Yeah,,, 8 times easier to roll over the engine!!! lol... I like that you over explain things. Where were you 40 years ago??? ;)

As always great video. You never dissapoint.

Nicely done Appreciate your effort Keep goin'

Seriously awesome videos, keep up the good work!

Thank you for sharing your videos,very informative

great explanation! very easy to understand.

Thanks I like how you explain the specs I'm trying to figure out what cam I want in my 383 4x4 truck motor .

You have great videos. I like how you explain why to do things how/why it works, not just how to do it. Is there any way to roughly figure what porting or even just smoothing out runners on intake and/or exhaust will do for flow # ? Hoped to get to 400hp. With this instruction I think I'm looking at 380hp with aftermarket Vortec heads, 76% eff. 2.02/1.60 valves, 61cc comb. chambers, 185cc intake runners. Thought about just cleaning up the exhaust ports.

Great video as usual!

Thanks for these videos

I think I would use a stiffer pointer something that slides and locks otherwise good run through

Good builder info right here boys and girls!

Excellent video, thank you!

383s love solid lift cams!

Initial cleaning of cam and lifters before dry graphite lube? Brake cleaner spray ok to use for initial cleaning?

thanks for the video can u list the all the tools you used and where would be the best place to buy them thanks

For a handle on cam a #2 Philips screw driver works great

Loved you video,I'm doing a build on a 30 400 small block,with a mild hydraulic roller cam with 76 cc heads on pump gas....any advice.

AMAZING, NOW I UNDERSTAND. THANK YOU!

When you place the main caps on.. do they self align when bolts align?

I have a question if you will. I'm building a 454 for a 4x4 truck with a flat tappet cam. Could I use the molly graphite spray on the cam and lifters with the proper assembly lub and zink additive in the oil. Or just use the supplies lub?

getting ready to degree my first engine. one thing that confused me on the video though. i know you said to go past when turning reverse rotation, then turn normal rotation to .050, but when you release the wrench, the degree wheel turns a degree or 2 (assuming the weight of the wrench).. should you always hold chain tension in the direction of normal rotation for an accurate degree readout?

Can you recommend a camshaft full kit for my stroker build? I appreciate it.

Question. When putting together a flat tappet camshaft motor? Is special oil monitory whenever changing the oil? Or only when breaking in the camshaft?

what is the differencein a flat tappet cam and a roller cam? is it just the lifters or is the cam different

Good job on the degreeing.

Man I hope you come around to show us what all this means I normally just line up the little lines and then use the use the little light to figure out where I’m sparking it

iv got a 383 stroker been sline drilled n 60 over all that I received it just needen the outer components but no idea what I'm doing hoping all u narnuts out there can let me know what all I need I know heads timing chain n gears waterpump fuel pump what else do I need to put this together? please help thank you

Do you have to check all the lobes or just the first intake/ outake pair?

I’ve kept from going roller because of cost and had nothing to do with racing but I have a 406 and a 350 ready to change to a 383 and would like some info on most inexpensive way to do it while still remaining durable,any help appreaciated

hi buddy can u tell me a little more about the metal rod u hav positioned on the lifter do u hav it drilled for the plunger or is it just a dowl?

there is one thing I always do is put lubricant on any and all bolts that I am going torque to speck .Always. I learned this from an engineering class. A dry bolt will NOT get proper torque. The lubricant allows the bolt to get maxium stretch when torgue is applied.

Use a timing gear with a torington bearing on the back side of gear so no contact from gear and engine block

hey bro the only thing I don't get is when you worked out durations how did you come up with 180 degrees when your needle said 142 degrees plus the 10 before zero what am I missing that adds up to 152 degrees wheres the other 40 come from

I have a 1997 Chevy vortec 350. And I am gunna rebuild with help of my experienced buddy. So if I wanted to put and different cam in just a tic over stock. And with the stock valve spring's. As long as it will all work? What can I get to have the truck sound good and run decent too? Just a everyday driver. And it's 4x4 with 285/75/16 on it. I'm not sure on what gears they put in those trucks but it is a automatic. Is that enough info??

Lining up the marks on the Cam is done a little different!!!...6/12 you can move the Cam so the button fits the Cam gear properly !!.....Also Crankshaft rotation = twice the Cam rotation!!.....

very cool i learned alot.For a rookie that never done this before what advice do you have i am going to rebuild a small block 327 a mild build thanks later

Hi Bud , I see on the video the first piston is in the down position. Is this the position it's supposed to be at? Just wanted to double check before I install mine thanks

Something u didnt touch on was if checking the exhaust side of the cam what stroke does one hav to the piston at? Is it the exhaust stroke as opposed to checking the intake side of things!

do you have any videos on installing a gear drive timing set?

How do you install the cam on it? Isn't it supposed to be in an exact position on the shaft?

hi there MVI7512, im new 2 all this, just wanted 2 clarify 1 thing. i hav a new cam to go in my L67 GM 3800 V6 with x2 types of pushrods, anyway i discovered that the exhaust lobes r the 2 inner lobes & the 2 outer lobes r 4 the intake, would that b correct? or r all cams different 2 one another?

hi mvi sorry if i am re sending this not sure if i posted it b4 or not. i measured the lobes & got 334" inlet & 354" exhaust my rocker ratio is 1.6 so if i multiply i get ,534 inlet & exhaust 564 exhaustmy cam card says inlet valve lift 564 & exhaust valve lift 534. im no engine builder but doesnt this mean my cam grind is wrong? or do i need to degree it to check the grind?

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jbKIfpuS28nIp6M.html

So "degreeing a cam" is to verify that the cam is correct and meets specs. I have seen where someones actually changes the timing with an off set key or some other method of rotating the cam sprocket or crank sprocket to "optimize cam timing". I always thought "degreeing the cam" meant that... :-) Thanks. :-)

Is that a UTI ID badge behind you. Dunno if you mentioned anything about UTI but noticed that right away.

Be mindful of the timing chain slack and allowing your degree wheel to backspin when you let go of tension on your breakover bar. You'll get false readings.

It is more informative if you did show how where to start the timing without your making and the problems when timing gears and chain affects the timing. Could you make a part 2 of this video for more education your followers

Very nice video thank you!Keep going! You should start teaching somewhere!

how does 148+60 = 209? you're actually at 208/2 which is 104 right? i know its only .5*, just curious if there is always a degree added?

dude youre f---ing awesome. great info

About 20 years ago, I built just about the same engine you’re building in this series of videos. I went through all the steps you did with a few minor deviations. Someone gave me a solid four bolt main 350 block and I had it prepped by a machine shop…thorough cleaning, boring .030 over and check the deck and install the cam bearings. The cam bearing install was the only thing I didn’t trust myself to do properly. You never showed how to install the cam bearings and insure the oil holes were lined up. You also neglected to emphasize the importance of gapping the rings on hypereutectic pistons which is different from standard cast pistons (wider gap). High compression ratio with its resultant “pinging” using 92 octane pump gas can be mitigated by using aluminum heads. So far, after checking the cam against the cam card specs, which is nothing more than insurance that all the work you’ve done isn’t wasted in case the cam card is wrong, you still haven’t mentioned other things that needed to be described in the first video…like ignition, heads, longer pushrods required due to a smaller base circle of the cam, headers, and intake system (carb or injection). I guess my suggestion is to tell us everything in the first video about what you’re going to build and for what purpose (what’s it being installed in) and then show us how to do it without being redundant. All that aside you made a series of videos of what I did over twenty years ago…383 stroker in a ’66 Nova with stock rear suspension that would do 0 to 60 in 3.7 seconds. Don’t take me the wrong way…it’s a great series of videos I found quite informative and nostalgic. Thanks for posting. I hope people come to you to have their engines built. You definitely know what you’re doing.

\hey great video, thanks for that. I've always wondered what the cam shaft timing wheel was all about.. So its basically to double check what the manufacturer is telling you. good work ;)

Wouldn’t a 1:6 give you more power/flow?

thanks,explained a lot bud

It is a torington bearing style button

Hi I have watched all of you stroker build videos you are a legend so talented and you have taught me so much as I'm also building a stroker my self well that's with your help there is one question I would like to ask what is the best engine oil to youse for running in and after once again thank you

Hey Kerry this is my engine, i was just curious if i could add a turbo or supercharger to this without any problems?

You Are Awesome.

Excellent video! I am planning to stroke my 68 Pontiac 350 out to a 383 with a balanced rotary kit. My engine is numbers matching in a 1968 Firebird. The heads have been rebuilt with hardened seats. They are stamped #17 which are 72cc 1.96 / 1.66. I plan to use flat top pistons and want to use a roller cam. Given these perimeters, what would be the best RPM target and Cam selection. My compression should be close to 10.00:1

Good job...!

Great 👍 video question my 76 454 block had a flat tap cam but I’m installing a hydraulic roller the block has provisions (hole) for the cam retainer should I use a retainer plate or the button

I replaced my chain and gears with the double roller style. I also took my cam out to inspect it. I have my dots set dot to dot. Can my cam still be 180 degrees out? If so, how do I check it? Thank You.

Very accurate and exact ,

First off, great videos. I am pushing sixty now,,,and still building engines. And still,,,reaching for more knowledge. I am not ashamed to watch videos, read books, etc for more knowledge. I have been a professional Triple Master Certified mechanic my whole life. now for the question,,,,Do you happen to check each and every lobe for specs and not just number one cylinder????

Since it took 6 weeks to deliver the cam, when you ordered the cam did it state in fine print that you should wait 4-6 weeks for delivery, due to them having to manufacture the cam first? I know there's some subframe connectors that are made to order, this is so they don't have a bunch of metal stock on hand unpainted (due to customer preference on color, they can't paint them until ordered of course) that will degrade in quality from moisture and whatnot from just sitting around in a warehouse unpainted. Camshafts are the same way, they're precision products that they don't want sitting around with the possibility of getting dinged up in storage, they make either steel or cast iron parts that can't be painted so they don't want the rotating journals to rust from just sitting around. Also it saves them money since they'll produce cams only on demand and preorder, so they're not making a bunch of cams no one wants to use anymore.

i got lost @ duration! but i think i still got it boy did it get technical towards the end.

When we only install according to the upper dead point of the piston, the crankshaft is not accurate and so will install in accordance with this video tutorial.

Hi, I've just disassembled my small block 400 that I'm getting ready to rebuild it and start ordering parts. After viewing your video on what length connecting rods to use, I'm just wanting to know if I should go with the 5.700 that you recommend instead of the 5.565 that came out of it. Will it affect the TDC where I will have to go with shorter pistons because I went with the longer rod or will I be safe on the clearance. Thanks. Really enjoy your videos.

What's the clearance on cam bearing for your oil clearance does that mater?

I've been watching your series on the 383 build and was wondering what you think about replacing the LT1's Opti with a coil pack? I've seen a few who have done it but wanted your opinion. Thanks! and sorry if this is not the right place to post this.

Holy macros there’s a lot of information just to find out where we gotta put the little nach on the her Monic balancer

seeing u only need TDC on #1 when degreeing the cam, wouldn't it b easier to rotate the crank if #1 and #2 pistons were installed, it seems like ur sorta struggling with all the pistons installed, hopefully u don't need to check every lobe if #1 is correct

what happens if i have assembly lube on the cam bearings cuz i coated the entire shaft. you mentioned something about. Overloading the bearing. what is that?

Great tutorial my friend 👍. I'm building my LT1 in my 94 Pontiac Trans am. I'm new at degreeing a camshaft... I'm going to be running a comp cam kit.. my question to you is ??? I'm going to be running hydraulic roller lifter's with a roller comp cam. Is it good to offset the roller rockers?? For instance.. 1.5 roller rockers on intake and 1.6 roller rockers on exhaust??? 2nd question??? Do you recommend LS 7 pushrods in my LT1??? Or just plain LT1 pushrods????

For the dial gauge you are running on the cam, is it contacting a mechanical lifter or the actual cam lobe? My dial gauge isn't long enough to hit the cam lobe, do I need another one or can I use a mechanical (not hydraulic) lifter to get measurements? Also, your videos are great to watch, keep it up!