This video is a test for a series on informative fundamentals of 3d printing. Let me know any other topics you'd like covered in this format, and thanks for watching :)

nice video. A little bit of a nitpick on the heat capacity of tungsten/tungsten carbide vs brass.. These values are using mass as part of the unit (how to say this?), and since tungsten/tungsten carbide is about 2x the density of brass, the amount of heat energy that the tungsten nozzle (assuming the same size) can hold is actually MORE than the brass, meaning the temperature will be MORE stable for a tungsten nozzle compared to a brass nozzle of the same size/shape/etc. Not arguing with the numbers you've provided, just that the tungsten nozzle will be more than 2x as heavy as the brass, and therefore will be able to hold more heat than the brass. Assuming regular tungsten metal, the tungsten nozzle will be able to hold about 1.35x the amount of heat energy as the brass nozzle.

Found this video to be helpful for a newb, waiting for my printer to arrive and geeking out on the basics. Slicer, tools, filaments, nozzles, CAD etc subbed.

Great video, I learned a lot about the nozzles :D

From what I've been reading (and looking up on shopping sites), there's mainly FOUR sizes of commonly used nozzles. There are THREE types with the M6 thread. The "Mk8" (I've always thought of this as the "Mark 8") has a conical tip and is used in the Ender 3 and a lot of other Creality printers, there's the V6, which is used on E3D designed hot ends and clones (it's got a sharp cone coming out of a flat surface at the tip, and is NOT compatible with the Mk8), and there's the "Volcano", which is a lengthened V6, and is so-called because it originated with the E3D designed "volcano" hot end, which is really good when you need to print with a large nozzle orifice to print large objects on a big-bed printer (as a result most big printers come with this type of hot end these days). The fourth common nozzle which uses the M7 thread, and is called the "Mk10" (Mark 10). In online stores, if you search for "Mk10" or "M7" these will come up. My Wanhao i3 Plus uses these, I'm not sure where these originated but I suspect it's something that caught on early when people were inventing hot ends. Not sure what other printers use these but there must be a lot of them, since the nozzles are common. There are doubtlessly other types, but they don't seem to be commonly available on shopping sites. I've never come across those M10 threaded ones in the video, for instance. One odd type of nozzle I'm very curious about are those long, pointy "airbrush" nozzles - they're actually in two parts, you have a small nozzle that screws into a V6 nozzle body. I've only seen them available in the V6 size. Not very much information about them, or videos on KZfaq about them, either.

What would you use for flexible filament?

About the ruby nozzle. Isn't the idea here that the metal first transfers the heat to the plastic and only at the end does the ruby nozzle narrow the diameter? This means that the ruby no longer plays a significant role as a large heat conductor. By the way, should heat-resistant heat-conducting paste be used for the thread?

Are there any brands that have input diameters that are closer to 1.8-1.75mm instead of 2mm?

I’m very interested in non-planar 3D printing. Can you recommend any suppliers of long nozzles?

Whats the filament used at 2:50 ?

Not sure about keeping the flow rate the same. Assuming a fixed amount of pressure that your extruder can put out, and thus the same pressure drop over your nozzle, and a laminar Poiseuille flow in the nozzle, volumetric flow should be able to scale to the third power of nozzle diameter. Thats ignoring some other things like your stepper torque-speed curve or how the material flows under the nozzle (probably want to scale layer height along with diameter); and then there is the melting; perhaps with a thicker nozzle you are dealing with higher viscosities in the center. So its not all that easy; but ive recently measured my volumetric flow until skipping going from 0.4 to 0.6mm; and I could easily double my volumetric flow.

Wear on the inside of the bore or aperture of the nozzle is as much an issue as its dragging across the surface, wearing the outside of the tip. You also didn't mention the differences in thread pitch 0.75 and 1.0 in the 6mm nozzles and the proportional length of threaded section vs the rest of the nozzle that differentiate swiss/CR10 ender and V6 styles.

Very well explained, best video I've found on the subject. I've seen nozzles that take a screw in nozzle as the tip of the nozzle - the tip being I believe an airbrush nozzle. You didn't cover these but I'm guessing they would not be great. I was wondering whether you could use a volcano style (long) nozzle in say a Geeetech A20 or Ender 3 stock hotend as a combined nozzle/heat-break if you left a gap between the heat block and heatsink or if it is not that long?

Tack!

And that's why all the popular larger printers (Sidewinder X2, Bluer Plus, Sapphire Plus) come with Volcano type hot ends with the long nozzles, so that you can use large diameter nozzles to print large prints faster.

so what about stainless steel?

what difference does the tip geometry for a given nozzle size make to print quality? does the internal geometry of the transition from the bore to the tip make much difference to how easy the filament is extruded?

Can I put a V6 nozzle in An SK8 head? But Not an SK8 Nozzle in a V6 head…

Do you know what nozzle type is used for Creatbot (F160\ F430)

What is the color being printed at 2:45 and 3:00, etc.

I've always wondered why no one used 2.85mm filament anymore, it seems it was a lot more popular back in the day. I imagine it'd be better for large sized prints with big nozzles. That size of filament isn't easy to find.

Heh, that intro joke

With constant heat applied, will all these nozzles be the same temperature over a period of time? For sure how quick the heat will be transferred on each will be different, but I wonder if at the given time it will be all the same.

How is the ender 3 with the 32bit board?

So why is there not a Rockwell rating for the nozzles above brass and copper but the makers claim that they will never have to be replaced and charge a premium for them with absolutely no rating for the hardness?

LoL @ 9:05 but would you buy one?

My million dollar question: Why not just buy hardened nozzles instead of brass if they're so much more durable?

As your in uk......how comes you put prices in $😂

Take a shot every time he says nozzle

You failed to mention the importance of the threaded length. If it is too short, even if the nozzle is the correct length, you will be unable to screw it down the the heatbreak. This can cause the user to screw the heatbreak too far into the heaterblock so that it touches the cold-end. This is particularly evident when using a cheap chinese 6mm hex nozzle on a v6 heater block.

😂