Agreed, here in the US we like to gamble.........

Yep, especially with dark metal siding.

White paint or stain.

Good point: that's another crucial reason to focus on the interface of these vertical air gaps with the soffit vents and with similar air gaps to vent the roof. Off the top, I should think a continuous air gap should be designed to minimize water intrusion at that crucial connection at the soffits. Yes, strong wind will drive water UPWARDS, particularly at the soffits.

Awesome!!!

I live in Knoxville and the moisture issues are major. Lots of issues with crawlspaces.

It certainly does contribute

Probably bit it really depends on how the system is built, in theory it can even amplify sound

Good lord. I've had this same theory on double roofing for years. It's nice to see somebody else who thinks this way. 👍🏆🇺🇲

The double roof concept is essentially what Matt did on the remodel/rebuild of his personal home. I think the Pure Living for Life channel did something similar with their build. Furring strips down on top of their SIP roof and then a steel roof attached to the furring strips.

@@michiganengineer8621 that's very true. I've always thought of something like a sun shade or some kind of metal awning above the house, but it would be hard to do without making it look tacky. I should look into those techniques you mentioned thanks. 👍

@@michiganengineer8621 well that's an elegant method, but my concept is more like a steel roof a couple of inches to feet above the structural roof

@@0Sirk0 So you use a standard (or ZIP) roof deck instead of the SIP system. Probably be a lot cheaper even figuring in the cost of the insulation in the attic.

Well thank you very much, many builders are my best friends, but I am an architect. Just don't want to mislead you - and yes 100% Polish heritage / 2nd generation American.

That's a good question. I'd be interested to hear an answer as well!

I would be interested in knowing also!

Not that it is a good answer, but perhaps add a seal over the nail points? Perhaps spray a water sealant over the entire Zip panel system as well?

I can't stop thinking about how to either attach outer cladding in a way that doesn't penetrate the just-obsessively sealed water barrier, or, have a water barrier that also passes as a final cladding. There's gotta be something out there, right? After a couple years of casually following building science I haven't found the silver bullet yet.

I though you only need to seal the nails if you overpenetrate the zip outer layer?

nosedoctor, And I was complaining because I pay $85/mo. 800 SF heated.

@@chinookvalley well I am in Texas and we just went 67 days without rain, and the daily high temps were averaging about 101 -103 for the majority of it , so I am not unhappy with the cost, considering rates have gone up > 25% in the last year. I should have mentioned there is almost 2000 sq ft of basement storage that is AC'd that is not living space so I guess the total is about 11,000 sq ft. AC space. Will be downsizing in a few years. or maybe take on tenants LOL. Will be empty nesting then. The whole above ground structure including attic is foam encapsulated and the stem wall for all the underground structure is ICF. I wanted to go with the AeroBarrier but my GC was gun shy about new technology, so we went with the encapsulation. Wish we had done the AeroBarrier and pink stuff in the walls. Matt Risinger is the one who got me started on looking at ways to create an air space between the metal skin on the roof and the underlayment on the roof deck. He did a video on something called Delta Trela. I ended up going with different manufacturer, but the same idea.

I really like the accurate language you have chosen to describe that "dynamic updraft". Builders should benefit from mastering essential gas laws in physics: PV/T is a constant. Also, that "dynamic updraft" should be assisted if there is a reflective foil on the bottom surface of that "ventilation path".

@@supremelawfirm you are right, and I thought of that, but did so too late. The underlayment was already on the roof deck. Considered doubling up but we were looking pretty overbudget versus projections by that time, so I saved my $ for insulating under the slab. I was happy I did that. The cost of radiant heating on the ground floor was higher, and after two winters, the floor (which is stone) stays comfortable with just the insulation. So many cool ideas I would like to have tried, but the money gets crazy, an its much worse now, unfortunately.

I’m really interested in what you used @nosedoctor, is there any way I could find your details to pick your brains a bit on how you did it, maybe get some photos of the vent paths and flashing systems you used?

Water "management" is key

Well thank you very much sir

It was a nice profile wasn't it - thanks man!!

Matt, just a thought: in a future follow-up, you might consider illustrating some of the best details to interface that air gap in exterior walls with a similar air gap in a vented roof.

In my 30 years I have seen probably more wavy non-rainscreen walls than rainscreen walls - good execution is good execution, also please understand the venting option keeps your siding from warping, twisting, checking, etc because the siding experiences the same conditions on all sides - I did a house with spruce siding - straight as an arrow

With your background you should look into getting in the Smart Home/ Home Automation area. I took an on-line course through a local college and it seem like it could be a real game changer for new construction if done properly. Wi-fi switches/controls greatly reduce the amount of wiring and labor that's required.

I can't find it either. Only in Canada. Even my local contractor supply doesn't carry it.

@@michaelrdegroat if you do find some, please post it.

The Keene stuff is some of the best out there

they said it was relatively non-compressible.

I have used bronze screen in some cases

Vinyl siding is somewhat a self rainscreen

No, the rainscreen equalizes the pressure and creates a pressure drop - water falls to gravity

No it doesn't, maybe a millimeter at best. The nailing flange will prevent most of the vertical air flow and water draining.

The code aknowledges Vinyl siding as a rainscreen. It is certainly not the best, but it does have a space - also it is inherently indestructible

@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 Don't go pressure washing vinyl siding thinking it's indestructible.

"Homeslicker" by Benjamin Obdyke - check it out

@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 Hi Steven, is it necessary to caulk the shingles to the exterior trim with Homeslicker vapor barrier? I was going to have the painter pre-stain the shingles but was told by Benjamin Obdyke not to stain the wall side of the shingles as they do not want moisture trapped within the shingle. They want any moisture that makes it into the shingle to be able to pass thru to the vapor barrier and let is dissipate in the airspace behind the shingle otherwise the vapor can get trapped into the shingle and not completely dry out. Any opinions on this? It does have some logic to it. Thanks for the information.

Usually just a small half-inch to 3/4 inch gap at the top of your siding, don't butt the siding up to the soffit, with an air permeable filter material at the top. Plenty for air to work through, and it lines up with the top edge perfectly so it blends.

A fine mesh screen runs along both the bottom and top of the siding.

No - it's about fastener and embeddment

@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 wow thanks for the reply. I watch every build show video to educate myself before building my dream home. If you say it's good to use in a coastal setting I'll believe it.

You really think caulking stops bugs? And no, they don't like it in there especially if it is air open. The caulking provides an environment more desirable to them

I'm in your area and haven't seen any new construction using Zip around here. Personally, that's what I'll be doing - Zip with airtight envelope around the entire house, rock wool in the walls, and foam in the conditioned attic. Had to talk my builder into the additional expense of Zip, but I think that's really the way to go. As Matt has said in other videos - foam is a bit disappointing in terms of air sealing, but having both can really help.

Yup. Perfect for bees as well if they gain an entrance.

@@conniemtompkins Actually they don't like the vented space, it dry and undesirable to them. I have a ton of rainscreens out there - they don't move in

Definitely

The redwood trees are powered by the capillary action of water. The General Sherman is what almost 300ft tall. So water breaks are essential.

@@steven7650 bruh, I've been DYING to move to N Cali and help protect the Redwoods ❤🙏⚠️❤ life with purpose ♻️🤌 Mr.Bellows runs a program up there and is passing the torch to the next generation 🥲❤🙏

It's a fair concern. Properly applied, I don't think that a rain screen would catastrophically fail any faster than a non-rain screened application. Again, properly done, I can't really picture an entry point for wind to get into. All the siding is still overlapped, or however it's 'normally' applied, the rain screen doesn't really change that, it just makes it go out a half inch further. But it's not like there are any gaping open holes remaining necessitated by the wind screen. I would guess that your contractor's concern relies on a misunderstanding of physics. By not using a rain screen, the siding isn't any 'more' fastened to the wall. The wall isn't providing any magnetic-like hold to it, just cuz it's touching the siding. If he's going to apply the same amount of fasteners (nails) either way, then that's no difference. And if the siding is applied the same way, just 1/2" further out (with no gaping openings), then theres kinda no difference in the end (except for multiple benefits of having a rain screen (thermal gap, drying, etc). Finally, think of how many people use a rain screen nowadays, and yet there's just not a crisis of siding blowing off, at least that I've heard of.

Unfortunately, there are builders that are stuck building the old way. Refusing to give merit to present better building techniques ( exterior insulation- rainscreen ) and will find excuses not to do them. Probably not wise to trust a builder who pushes back hard on installing these systems to do a good job. Good luck, if it was my house I would find another builder.

Dump him, I did the same on my house and had zero problems If your worried about rip off you just increase the nail schedule. and it goes like this, rain screen , air Gap, exterior insulation, water barrier fluid applied, zip board. you will thank me in 40 years

Success is in the embedment of the fastener, if you use a wood furring strip typically we would screw those on and nail to them

Mortar bleeds water in about 10 minutes of a wetting event - like a highway

@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 I clued in after having to continuously replace rotted and twisted wood boards. Now that the wall can breath as normal, from weep holes to soffit, I'll bet there will be no more problems.

It is

Pure crap

Not when the insulation is a rigid board of EPS, XPS or even an rockwool board. By the way, external insulation should preferably be done with load bearing insulation boards in order to avoid thermal bridges.

@@edmarferreirajunior724 Most siding manufacturer recommends installing there product without furring. So there will always be thermal bridging. You can see pics of hurricane damage where siding peels from the wall when it’s nailed thru a rigid board with roofing nails .

Yo Yo

Product maker is Keene Product: Easy-Fur www.keenebuilding.com/products/building-envelope/walls-and-siding/easy-fur They also market a product called Driwall, in various thicknesses.

@@PhotonHerald Thank you !!!!

@@John-2632 No problem. It's mentioned in there, but it flashes by so fast that if you're not paying REALLY close attention, you miss it. I just happen to be the kind of anal retentive person who'll spend 10 minutes scrubbing through the video. 😁

Yeah - I like that line

Water from the backside will bubble it off, leaving the wood exposed and necessitating scraping when repainting. Sun alone won't do that.

He is one bad ass, I know him personally lol

@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 I get the feeling you guys are really close.

@@percyfaith11 LOL

Holes only matter if there is a pressure across the hole, the rainscreen provides a pressure equalized space so the water is forced to fall to gravity

@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 That makes sense, but there's bound to be some kind of seepage of water into the wood fibers over the years around screw, nail, and staple holes, right? Definitely better than tyvek, but it still removes some of the water tight benefit of zip system. Is there a way around that?

@@frostman9661 I would think some yes, but wetting/drying is a rate question - the rainscreen tips the scales in favor of drying time

@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 oh I see what you are getting at. That makes sense! Thanks your responses!

Matt's been talking about the benefits of a rain screen for a long time. Zip doesn't negate the benefits of a rain screen, it's just better than non-sealed panels.

bro have you even watched these years of videos? He has talked up rainscreens for as long as I can remember. The point is to protect the SIDING and zip does not do that on its own.

@@ssl3546 Yes Bro, He’s “talked up” rain screens for awhile, and now he has a sponsor. Funny how that works. Hardie siding (which was referred to) is cement based with a 30 year warranty.

@@seanm3226 it's not just about the siding - the vent space dries out the wall too. Infact the code allows you to decrease in class of vapor retarder when using a rainscreen. There are many advantages to a rainscreen beyond siding durability - even though it significantly enhances that too

Rainscreens and ICF's is apples to elephants - not even in the same zip code

Baffles me

This is before I get mad and mean

Well we are still talking about it because our industry is hard headed, There are rainscreen cases here 40 and 50 years old