Amazon links are not working...

It's like liquid sand. Learned something today.

Bad links.

Soap mould

PZ screws have PH obsolete around here.

One of the best things I ever did tool wise is buying a 30 or 50 pack of assorted bits. Always easy to find the right one and no quibbles about tossing a bad one.

not usually the case in my experience except on the cheapest of bits, usually they are all much harder than a screw

Good idea. It does work. Some kinds of wood, for example, give enormous friction.

Instead of wax, a bar of soap or a drop of liquid soap is also useful. soap will not interfere with subsequent painting or other type of finish.

@@janami-dharmam When I faced extremely hard and viscous wood, I naively sprinkled some WD-40 in predrilled holes, it was the first thing to come to my mind. It helped me. What do you think about it?

I drilled a large hole in the bottom end of my finish hammer handle. I fill this with bee's wax (toilet ring). Note: if you drill a small hole that intersects the end of the handle hole it will allow air to escape as you fill the bee's wax hole easier. This way I had wax at the ready for both nails or screws. In addition, I would melt some was and keep it in a tin in one of my tool boxes for either refilling my hammer handle or for poking screws into when needed.

@@OlTrailDog It's not a good idea to drill or embed anything into a hummer handle, it badly weakens it. This part should be solid and smoothly shaped as much as possible.

Yea me to i bought the torx screws by accident lol once i tried them i nev buy phillips again

Based comment

Unfortunately most things you buy that contain screws - have Philips screws. I hate them!

@@Q..J.. You can find Torx in the same lengths as phillips.

@@DiligentDave1966 sweet!! Thanks for the info., checking them out now. 😊

Great point - I'm a huge fan of pre-drilling in general to avoid splits and cam out.

@@LRN2DIY True. I thought you would start from this tip.

Indeed. Also use a counter sink tool to hammer a few hits on it to start a tiny hole. This will guarantee your drill bit doesn't dance around the spot you want it to truly begin a new hole with. 😁

@@motoryzen "automatic center punch"

@@mr_killjoy4205 indeed. One name for it is a nail punch or nail setter.

Thanks, I'm sure lapping compound is cheaper.

Nice tip. Can at a push use superglue and bicarbonate

@@michaelhutin5451 - No its not 🙂

@@harrycaul2494 Sodium Bicarb is quite soft. That doesn't make sense. Fine pumice or some Silicon carbide (SiC) powder/granules does. PS The real problem is extracting 'stuck' screws, in that placement pressure helps drive it in, but fights pulling it out.

@@you2tooyou2too Bicarb just causes the superglue to harden very quickly. Makes sense if you want to glue the screw to your driver, but that's pretty unusual... maybe an option if you need to place a non-magnetic screw (like brass) in a tough-to-reach spot?

You nailed it😄👍🏼 at times even drill bit struggles to get through the hard woods.

Solid, thanks!

1:30 merch ad

Can you explain in more detail "drill a pilot hole to the inner diameter of the thread"

​​​@@PR-bd1ky select a smaller diameter drill bit than the diameter of the screw you are using. Drill the hole first. Then place the screw in that hole and screw it in. It goes in much easier and also prevents the wood or deck material from splitting. You must use a smaller diameter drill bit otherwise the screw will have no material to bite into. The smallest bit that allows the screw to go in easier but still gets a good bite and hold into the material.

@@PR-bd1ky OK, use a drill that is the same size as the screw shank. So if the screw has a 3.00 mm shank then use a 3.00 mm diameter screw.

Robertson screws are the best by far, but not well known in the states.

Robertson = square head

For GOD's sake, what are you doing on a ladder? Don't you feel that you are too old to be doing DIY using a ladder? When I was just a young boy, my mother taught me not to climb any higher than I could afford to fall.

@@outlet6989 I'm 69 years old I worked off a ladder (not too high I admit) to remove 60 feet of rotted fascia board as the contractor wanted $1500 to replace it. Five hours to remove gutters and tear down by myself. Six hours the next day for me and a handyman to paint and install new 2x8 fascia. Total cost for materials and paying handyman $425.

@@berniehayhurst1811 sure they are! Just called square drive here. Menards sells lots of them. Not Home Depot though. Don't know about Lowes.

as in drywall screws? If so the downside is they are brittle and not as strong as construction screws.

That's accurate. I thought about using the term "cam out" but opted for "strip" since that's what more people know it by. I usually call it a stripped screw head too - I should probably start using the right term 😂

@@LRN2DIY Haha. I gave up years ago. Same thing with widescreen TVs. People call them 16 X 9, when in fact it’s an aspect ratio of 16 : 9. I just thought I’d throw it out there for the heck of it. 🤣

common language needed in the title to bring people here but agree probably the most obvious learning opportunity that was missed here and a great place to start "youve been saying it wrong the whole time kids!" that will get them to watch the rest of the video

@@LRN2DIY please use your influence to help correct this then. Explain the correct term so people don’t make this mistake forever.

​@@LRN2DIYDo not change what you said. This person's instructor was completely incorrect. Both situations are "stripped out". To "cam out" has nothing whatsoever to do with damage to the fastener or material. The short explanation: "Stripping out" material or a fastener is to remove material that engages a tool to the fastener or the fastener to the material. "Cam out" describes two components, intended to solidly move together when force is applied to one of the components, that slip because of an inability to retain proper position and alignment between the two. This can be by design or due to damage, but in the case of damage you haven't "cam'd out" the fastener or tool, you've stripped away material that creates a solid connection between them. In fact, if you completely strip the head of a cheap fastener, your tool won't cam out at all. It will simply spin in the empty space it drill out. The long explanation: By definition, "camming out" is when two objects that are designed to interact with force in one direction separate due to force in an off axis direction. Fasteners such as bolts, screws, etc are typically designed for clockwise force to apply or install the fastener and counterclockwise to loosen or remove the fastener. On a graph this would be equal force in both the x and y axis. Any force in the z-axis will either assist in preventing cam out or cause it. A perfect marriage of tool, fastener, and material can still experience cam out without damage to any of the components. In a ratchet, the operating mechanism is a deliberate cam out of the stationary tooth. It slides over the rotary gear teeth in one direction while catching in the opposite direction. "Stripping out" is absolutely caused by damage either to the fastener, the material, or the tool. To strip is to remove. In the case of materials, soft material or material that has become soft from rot or rust can be damaged by the threads of fastener, rounding out the entire hole to the outer diameter of the threads, thereby preventing them from securing the material. The threads of a fastener can be damaged and, consequently, also not engage the material to hold it in place. Stripping a fastener, as your entire video is about, is usually when a hardened or harder tool removes softer material from the head of the fastener. That isn't camming out! You've stripped The head of the fastener, removing material intended to engage the tool to the fastener. The slip is cam out. The damage that caused it is stripping out.

Me too.

It worked for me on 3 screws. They did not want to leave home.

use a rubber band on top of the screw, or better yet, DITCH the philips

Hi Ontario here......yes we have the best,

I'm in USA we call them square drive and i totally agree they're the best.

DAP is the company, not the product.

Plus ensure you've got it on 'screwdriver' mode, not 'drill'. The screwdriver mode is designed to allow more leeway WRT excess applied torque; drill mode just locks torque to max

@@snafu2350 "WRT" wut

@@samhain9394 "With regards to.."

@@snafu2350 ohhhh youre a zoomer, okay.

@@samhain9394 'zoomer'??

That's why you purchase impact bits for the impact driver. Or regular bits for a non impact tool.

1st grader attempt at "Humble Brag" has entered the chat.

It's the other way around. A pz-bit will do ok on a ph-screw, but a ph-bit should never be used on a pz-screw. The PH is design to not overtorque the screw, and therfore it's easy to strip.

They’re the same. It’s probably the most common bit so they give you several of them.

Go to Autozone or any car parts store and get a small tube of blue loctite. Remove the bolt (Allen head) and apply to the threads, then reinstall. It’s called an anaerobic thread sealant and will cost a few dollars. A lock washer would also accomplish the same effect.

Have you tried using an impact driver? It produces a hammering effect that is designed to drive screws in with less effort and they work wonders.

Please Use Torx (T25) or Robertsons (Square) which dont need downward pressure like a phillips

Sounds like you already know the basic pointers you "cam" here looking for 😂 Why don't you just enlighten folks in the comments rather than solicit free labor from the content creator you're already gleaning free content from? 🤔💭