Thanks very much for the nice comment! Much appreciated!

I saw one in that he took a needle nose pliers and did it in 2 minutes, way easier

Thanks Brandon, much appreciated!

Thanks for the comment! And thanks for sharing your experience approach on the Civic. I definitely agree with removing some brake fluid from the reservoir (or at least monitoring it during the process) - good point!

Thanks for the nice comment! Appreciate that!

Thanks very much for the nice comment! I really appreciate it!

The only issue I see that you missed was the adapter kit used to rotate and push the piston back into the housing comes with two types of screwing type tools. One is used on the left side of the car while th eother is used on the right side of the car. Presumably one is a left handed thread while the other is a right handed thread, I have no idea which side you are working on, but my assumption from watching numerous video on this subject is the screw direction for retraction on Honda is always clockwise. It would be nice if you discussed how does one view which is the right side of the car and which is the left side of the car? It depends on the point of reference. If one assumes while sitting in the car, the left side is on your left while right side in on your right. If one is facing the car from the front, then the right side is on the drivers side and the left side is on the passenger side. @@JohnsDIY

@@kevindecker9444 Good point! I believe the normal convention is to use left and right relative to sitting in the vehicle. So in the US, the left is driver's side and right is passenger side. I could have messed that up and said the wrong thing in the video though! But you are correct, on these Hondas, the piston screws back in the clockwise direction on both sides of the vehicle. Interesting that some windback tools have left and righthanded threaded tools. My kit only has the single tool which works for clockwise retraction.

Thanks much for the nice comment!

Thanks very much for the nice comment! Really appreciate it!

Thanks for the nice comment Jolene!

Thanks much for the nice comment Allen! Appreciate it!

Thanks very much for the nice comment! Hope the brake job on the RDX goes smooth! Let us know if there are any major differences relative to the Accord!

Thanks for the nice comment! Appreciate that!

Thanks for the nice comment! Wow, $1000! Hope the brake job goes smoothly - I'm sure it will!

Appreciate the nice comment Richard!

Thanks for the comment!

Thanks for the nice comment James! That's a good point about the relative thread pitch and I agree. With the turn-back tool threads finer than the ball screw, on each turn the ball screw moves in farther than the tool moves out, so you just have to catch the tool up by additionally turning the nut. If it was the other way around, then the turn-back tool would move out further than the piston would move in each revolution and the tool would want to bind up. I guess you might be able to try to manually loosen the nut to continuously keep enough slack, but it would definitely be trickier in that case (since if you didn't turn the nut enough you would bind up rather than just start getting really loose). Good point! Yep, that makes sense to me. Seems like once you have some test leads at the ready then it might be the quickest/easiest method as well. Thanks!

Thanks for the nice comment! Hope the brake job went well anyway!

Thanks Mark. I agree, that's a good way to go and good point that that method doesn't require any special tools.

in canada, those two little bolts are nightmare. you dont want to touch them in there is any other way out there.

Thanks much for the nice comment! I'm actually an electrical engineer in my day job but I do like knowing how mechanical stuff works too! Thanks again!

Nice job Paulo! That's fantastic! Yeah, that diesel fuel filter must be a pain on the back of the engine. I have a video on taking out the alternator which is back there too and it is a job! A lot of working by feel! Great job on the brakes!

Thanks for the nice comment Paulo! That's great that you were able to solve the problem - nice work! Thanks for taking the time to post the comment.

Thanks for the nice comment Lino! Appreciate it!

Thanks for the nice comment and good luck on your repair Erick!

Thanks very much for the nice comment! Appreciate it!

Thanks for the nice comment Blake!

Thanks for the comment/feedback!

Thanks for the nice comment!

And thank you for the nice comment sir!

Thanks much for the nice comment!

Thanks for the nice comment Leo!

Thanks for the nice comment!

Thanks for the nice comment! Much appreciated Vasiliy! (Thanks to google translate for the translation)

Thanks for the nice comment! Appreciate it!

Thanks for the nice comment!

Thanks for the nice comment Alexander!

Thanks for the nice comment!

Thanks much for the nice comment!

Thanks much for the nice comment! Really appreciate that!

Thanks for the comment! Yep, even though I have a scan tool that supports it, I still find it easier to just turn them back in.

Thanks for the nice comment!

Hahaha! Yep, they sure took all our fun away with that change :)

I know... but you are not supposed to drift a FWD car anyway.

Yes, I believe that is correct. Maintenance mode causes the parking brake motor to run until the inner piston is fully retracted. However, it cannot pull in the outer piston since that just floats over the inner piston so that simply has to be pushed in which can be done without turning it.

Thanks for the nice comment Phong!

Thanks for the comment Eric! Assuming the 2017 caliper is the same as the 10th gen Accords, it should eventually reach a point where it won't turn anymore. Although it looks like it is all the way back in (flush with the surface), maybe it is just not quite all the way back? That would be my guess. If you turn a bit further does it stop turning?

Interesting, yep, I could see how you could get needle nose pliers to work for that in a pinch! Gets the job done!! I am going from memory, but I think there is a latch on the connector that needs to be depressed by squeezing the connector in the right place. However, I find it is usually very hard to undo the connectors this way once they sit there a while and collect some grime in there. Instead, what usually works much better is to get a really fine pick and reach in from the end of the connector and lift up on the clip. Hard to describe in words, but basically you reach in to the end of the connector between the female connector housing and the connector it goes to and gently push outward (toward the outside of the connector). You will feel when you are on the latch because it will feel "springy". Once you pull back on the latch a little bit, the connector will pull off very easily. It does not take a lot of force, it just takes a very small pick and a little fishing around to fine the right place by feel.

I find a really small pick like the right angle one from this set works well: www.amazon.com/Rotation-Pick-Hook-4-Piece-Tools/dp/B08W3H1SCV

But maybe you could even get in there with a small screwdriver.

Thanks for the nice comment Dave! Appreciate that! The procedure to calibrate the EPB system is really simple: 1. Turn the vehicle to the ON mode. 2. Apply and release the parking brake 2 times, then make sure that the brake system indicator (red) goes OFF. Basically the EPB recalibrates itself by running the motor until the inner nut forces the piston out (as indicated by an increase in motor current). Good luck with the repair!

Thanks for the nice comment Bob! Yes, that is exactly correct. When the parking brake is engaged after the brake job is complete, it will drive the inner nut and piston out until the brake is engaged and then back it off just the right amount to be ready to quickly engage on the next use.

Hi James, Interesting idea! I am not certain how the parking brake disable algorithm works on the Honda, but it appears that it might just run the motor for a fixed amount of time, enough to ensure the piston is retracted just a bit. It does not retract it all the way, of course, so that it will be faster to engage when the parking brake is turned on again. There are no position sensors or anything, so I suspect it just runs for a fixed time interval. Going in the other direction, to engage the parking brake, I suspect it runs until the motor current increases beyond some threshold, indicating it has sufficient pressure on the pad. If my understanding of all that is true, then I think your idea might work on the Honda (not sure about the Buick) but I think you would have to repeat the process many times to fully retract it, each time getting it to retract a little further. So you would use your screwdrivers to take up all the slack. Then turn on the parking brake and it the piston would hardly come out at all since you are taking up the slack. Then when you turn of the parking brake it will retract a bit. Then you take up the slack with your screwdrivers. And just keep repeating that process until it is fully retracted. I think that might work, but certainly never tried it! However, it certainly doesn't seem like the easiest or quickest way to me!! Interesting idea though!

Thanks for the comment! 1. No, I have never had to put the brake system in maintenance mode to wind back the piston. The maintenance mode (which can be set with a bidirectional scan tool) retracts the inner piston by running the electric motor so that you don't have to wind back the piston with the windback tool. But if you use the windback tool to screw the piston back in, this action retracts the inner piston and maintenance mode is not necessary. 2. I don't know why accessory mode would release pressure on the caliper. I have never done that on any vehicle. You should make sure that the parking brake is turned off however. If you have the "auto parking brake" feature enabled then you should disable it. With the parking brake off, the inner piston (electronic parking brake) will be retracted enough for you to remove the caliper. Then you can just pull on the caliper a bit to push the hydraulic piston in enough to pull the caliper off. Once you finish the brake job, you should turn the parking brake on and off twice so that the inner piston gets reset to the correct position (close to making contact with the outper piston). Here is a video of a rear brake job on a 2018 Honda Accord showing this approach. (System was NOT in maintenance mode and the engine was NOT in accessory mode): kzfaq.info/get/bejne/na1ohbp5rp2VYpc.html Hope that helps!

@@JohnsDIY Thanks John! One more question, just like in your video, many videos on the topic show people removing the back of the EPB and turning the screw clockwise using a T12 torx bit until it stops, then compressing the piston straight back. Does the alternate method of just using the windback tool achieve the same thing with regards to the internal screw? I prefer just using the windback tool method because I share the same concern of opening the sealed EPB unit.

@@ddisneyman8911 Sure thing! Yes, exactly, both accomplish the same result. I agree, probably better to not remove the EPB unit if you don't need to plus I think it is quicker and easier to just use the windback tool. By removing the EPB and turning the shaft with the torx bit, you are screwing the screw into the inner piston causing it to be retracted back into the caliper. When you screw the outer piston in with a windback tool, the outer piston is keyed to the inner piston/nut. So as you rotate, the inner piston/nut is screwed back on the shaft/screw and gets retracted back into the caliper. In both cases, the result is the same, just a matter of thether you rotate the "bolt" or the "nut".

@@JohnsDIY Thank you so much! Saved me $$$. Just finished replacing the rear pads and rotors, the windback tool worked great! Didn't have to crack open the EPB unit. I'm not sure why there's such a confusion and fear over the EPB, it was very easy. In accessory mode, I turned on and off the parking brakes a few times. No warning lights! Now I have to do the front brakes, do you happen to know the front caliper bracket and caliper pin torque specs on a 2018 Accord? Can't find it anywhere. Thanks again!!!

@@ddisneyman8911 Sure thing! It is always so nice to be able to get the job done yourself! Good luck with the repair and give a shout if you have any other questions!

Thanks for the comment!

Interesting question. I still have that spare caliper hanging around. I'll give that a try and let you know!

@@JohnsDIYthat would be cool😄

@@lizhiliao4614 I tried it out and a fresh 9V battery was indeed able to drive the parking brake motor! It definitely turned slower and sounded a little sluggish compared to driving it at 12V (not surprisingly) but it worked just fine. I was able to drive the caliper piston out and then retract it just fine. Thanks for mentioning that as that might be a good option for a lot of folks! A nice side benefit of doing it that way is that you can't really create any problems with that approach (shorting out and melting terminals for example) due to the limited amperage of the 9V battery. Good idea!

@@JohnsDIY Hi John, thank you soooo... much for trying it out with the 9V battery! It is just great to hear that it worked well for you and could be a viable option for others too. Indeed, the limited amperage of the 9V battery provides an added safety benefit. Much appreciate for sharing your valuable experience!

That's a good point Kevin! Yes, I think that is a good idea and it is what I do. I should have mentioned that. I take the cap off the brake reservoir and if the fluid level is high, I also suck a little bit out before rewinding the piston so it doesn't overflow.

Thanks for the nice comment! It is a good question and I really don't know. At least on this model Honda, I don't see how it would even be possible for the PCM to detect that the piston had been wound back manually. There are literally two wires going to the motor which supply it power. There are no other sensors or any other type of feedback. Therefore, I believe the only way that the parking brake gets calibrated is by the PCM running the motor until it engages (as detected by increased motor current) and then backing off by a bit. Which makes sense given that the honda service information parking brake adjustment procedure (after pad replacement) is to simply engage and then disengage the parking brake.

Thanks for the nice comment!

Good question, but unfortunately, I don't know if the technique works on most other models or not. Yes, exactly, once you are done with the brake job, you pump the brakes like you would normally do until the pedal gets nice and firm, and then put on and turn off the parking brake two times.

I have used the C-clamp method you describe on some vehicles as well, but unfortunately, that method by itself will not generally work on the rear brakes of the 2018 Accord with the electronic parking brake. The piston will push in some, but only until it hits the inner nut on the ball screw and then will stop pushing in. You will need to either rotate the piston or use one of the other methods described in the video to retract the inner nut inside the piston.

Thank you very much for such a quick response. I just bought the brake pads at my local Honda dealer and now I will get the same clamping system tool at my local auto parts place. I’ve changed the pads in all my cars using the C clamp so I shouldn’t have any problems after watching your video and using the new tool. again thank you very much!

Sure thing! The C-Clamp should work fine in the front, but yes, you'll need some kind of windback tool for the rear. Usually they are called a brake rewind tool or brake wind-back tool. On Ebay/Amazon, they are typically available for about $30. Good luck with the repair!

I actually just did my the other day. I used a needle nose to rotate the piston and the c-clamp to push in the rest. Worked perfectly

@@chriscruz985 That's a clever approach without requiring any special tools!

Really messed up this one and have a happy foot.

@riverboat28 Did just the outer piston pop out? If that is the case then you should just be able to align the outer piston with the inner piston/nut and then carefully force the piston back in past the square cut seal. Then you will have to bleed the brake caliper of course. If the inner piston/nut came out then that is a harder problem as likely the ball bearings came out. I am not sure what to do in that case, aside from getting a new caliper. What caused the outer piston to pop out? Did someone press the brakes repeatedly with the caliper off the vehicle? In that case, it could be that just the outer piston came out. However, if the piston popped out because the motor was driven fully in that direction, then there is a good likelihood that the inner piston/nut also came out.

I'm sorry, I do not know how to put the ball bearings back in. That is why I said in the video not to push the piston out all of the way. Sorry!

Hi Paulo, In my case, the handbrake (parking/emergency brake) was OFF before I started. Also some models have an automatic parking brake engagement in Park and this was also not enabled in my case. If the parking brake is on then you won't be able to remove the caliper without first winding it back. This means that you wouldn't be able to wind back the piston using a windback tool because you wouldn't be able to get access to the piston without removing the caliper first. However, you could still wind back the piston with a bidirectional scan tool, by taking off the motor and turning the shaft, or by manually running the motor in reverse via test leads. This will effectively disengage the parking brake when you wind it back. After reinstalling the parking brake will automatically self-adjust when you engage it the first time. So in summary, if you want to use the windback tool, you will need to ensure that the parking brake is off before you start. If you use one of the other methods, you could start either way. It makes the most sense to me just to make sure that the parking brake is off before you start.

@@JohnsDIY hi John. Thanks for the quick reply. I've not seen any mention of this. I think it's kinda important if doing the rear brakes. Mine is a 1.6 diesel ex, 6 speed manual, being in the UK that's the spec. I've not done these electronic type handbrake things before. I don't have the diagnostics but I do have a wind back tool for the brakes. I'm going to have some fun tomorrow doing the disks and pads all round. Hopefully it works and no lights on the dash lol. Good informative video. 👍

@@paulos9304 Yep, I agree, it is a good point! Just to provide some confirmation, on my 2018 Accord, the service manual procedure to remove the rear brake rotor is: 1. Vehicle - Lift. 2. Rear Wheel - Remove. 3. Parking Brake - Release. Note, if the automatic parking brake function is turned on, do the temporary cancel automatic electric parking brake. Wow, I didn't even know they made a diesel HRV! That's neat! Good luck with the repair - let us know how it goes!

​@@JohnsDIYHi John. I've not managed to get it done yet but tomorrow Monday is looking the day to do it as it's a public holiday over here. Yer the 1.6 i-dtec is great on fuel. High 50s low 60s if driven sensibly. European market the diesels I think. Same as the CRV although now Honda have stopped diesel in new models. Petrol or petrol/electric. I'll let you know how it goes tomorrow. Hopefully all goes well lol.

Hi Dave, Nope, You just turn the piston in clockwise and then press the piston in the remainder of the way. After that you are all set to put the new brake pads in and reassemble. Once you are done with the brake job, if you put the parking brake on and then off, it will calibrate and drive the inner nut the correct distance outward for the new pads.

@@JohnsDIY Thanks John

You bet, and good luck with the brake job. Let us know if any questions come up! We DIYers need to stick together!

I’m doing the rear pads & rotors on my 17 MDX. This is by far the most helpful video I found. Thanks 👍

Thanks for the nice comment Mark!

Did the motor spin OUTWARD too much or just INWARD? If the inner piston just retracted and left the outer piston wiggly loose, then you should be fine. You should be able to just push the outer piston back in over the inner piston. However, if the inner piston was forced out too far (running the motor in the reverse direction from retracting it so the inner piston was pushed OUT rather than IN) then you will probably need a new caliper if the inner piston was pushed out enough that it lost its ball bearings from the ball screw mechanism.

Thanks for the comment. I am not sure what you mean by "just turn the car battery on"? Turning off the parking brake off alone does not retract the inner piston all the way. It pulls the piston back just enough to allow it to spin freely (so that it will be quick to turn on the next time you use it rather than having to travel its full range). Let me know what you mean though as I might not be fully understanding your comment.

Hi there, I don't think the order matters, but I would recommend both pumping the brake pedal until it is firm and turning the parking brake on and off a few times. I prefer to pump the brakes first as this drives out the piston hydraulically, and then when you put the parking brake on it drives out the inner piston mechanically to match. But, I think it is okay in either order.

@@JohnsDIY thank you

Ok thanks Johns DIY you hit it right on the nose. sharing your gift of knowledge with others is a God Send.when you give you shall treceive ,may you stay healthy and safe God Bless you and your family.. To help your brothers with a helpful video for all to help themselves

@@bigred5393 Thanks for the very kind comment! And I wish you all the same in return! Thanks Big Red!

Great question! Normally there are pegs on the back of the brake pad which mate with indents in the piston and thereby prevent the piston from rotating. However, I say "normally" because at least on my Accord, the piston has indents on it, but to my surprise, there are no mating pegs on the OEM brake pads! The only thing I can think is that the lubricated ball screw mechanism in these calipers produces so little rotational force due to its low friction that just the resistance of the square cut seal is sufficient to keep the piston from rotating. In contrast, the standard ball screw mechanisms on previous generations (with traditional threads, not balls) likely generated more rotational force. But that is just my guess. On the workbench anyway, the squarecut seal does produce enough resistance to keep the piston from rotating - when activated the piston pushes out with no rotation.

@@JohnsDIY thank you, and yes I saw that on the bench , I was one of the two who stayed for the entire video lol Great job on the video and I can also vouch the turn in method works and in my opinion even though I have sets of wires for jumping pins and a power probe tool I think this is safer and quicker sense you'll have to press the piston in manually anyway. Thanks again good day sir

Haha! Appreciate that Brandon! And thanks for the confirmation that the turn-in method works for you too. I agree seems like a good way to go to me!

Hi Thomas, yes, that is exactly correct. You can simply remove the caliper, wind the rotor back as far as it goes, and then press it back the other way. Before you start, you should turn off the parking brake and make sure there is some room in the brake fluid reservoir. You are correct, there is no need to remove the plug. The only reason I removed it was to give a little more working room. I used exactly this method (although I did unplug) in this brake job video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/na1ohbp5rp2VYpc.html

@@JohnsDIY thank you sir!

Yes, you can retract the EPB with the scantool, then turn off the vehicle, change the brakes, then turn the vehicle back on and then reset the EPB with the scantool. In fact, this is the recommended approach in the service data using the HDS (Honda scan tool). When you do the retract ("ENTER BRAKE PAD MAINTENANCE MODE") all that happens is that the motor in the parking brake is run in reverse until it hits its stop. When you do the reset ("BACK TO NORMAL MODE") operation, all that happens is that the motor turns in the forward direction and pushes the inner piston out until the brake engages and then backs off slightly.

I just checked and it is actually a 12mm External Torx socket to turn the shaft after you remove the motor.

@@JohnsDIYi didn’t have that special socket but a regular 9mm hex socket fits snug enough to turn it clockwise by hand.

@@Jdm_fl5 Thanks! That is good to know for folks who don't have the Torx socket! It doesn't take much force so I am sure anything that fits should work fine as there should be no worries about stripping it or anything! Thanks!

The scan tool I used was Autel MS906. I have had it quite a while and think there might be better options out there now. The ability to do things like retract the caliper (and control other functionality via the PCM) is usually referred to as "bidirectional control" in the scan tool literature. Here's a link to the one I used: www.auteltechshop.com/wholesale/autel-maxisys-ms906-auto-diagnostic-scanner.html

That's interesting - I didn't know that some vehicles did that! On the Honda, both sides screw in clockwise.

Is this a 10th gen Accord? I believe they shouldn't require any computer reset. They should work immediately and reset to the correct position the first time that the parking brake is applied. Are you sure the parking brake electrical connector is fully plugged in (if it was removed)? Are you getting any codes or lights on the dash?

Thanks for the comment. I'm not sure I fully understand, but when you screw the piston back in, it is normal for it to stop turning at some point before the piston is all the way back in. At this point, the INNER piston is fully retracted but that does NOT mean that the outer piston is retracted. But to retract the outer piston from that point, you should be able to just push it straight back in (without rotating it). So from the sounds of it, that should be all you need to do just push the piston straight back in the rest of the way. You could do this with a windback tool or even a C-Clamp (just be careful to not put the other end of the C-Clamp on the plastic motor housing). Brake fluid should not be leaking from the boot no matter what orientation you had the caliper in. There is a square cut seal around the circumference of the piston which seals it from leaking. If the brake fluid is coming out there it indicates that the piston was forced out too far (entirely out of the caliper) or a problem with that seal.

@@JohnsDIY Thank you for your reply! When I did the Right rear it when smooth using needle nose pliers to wind the piston back in. It was a tight fit but as you stated it needed to be pushed back in further. The C Clamp I have is to small. I ordered a brake caliper kit which should be here tomorrow. ** the piston was forced out too far (entirely out of the caliper)** Is exactly what happened. I put the E brake on trying to start the whole process over. I was able to turn the piston back in a bit but it stopped with alot of room to go. Tomorrow I'm going to use the kit and try to push the piston back in. Would you say the damage is already done because the fluid was leaking out and I just need to order another caliper? Thank you again for your response!

@@Carloscda40 Just because brake fluid was leaking out doesn't mean the caliper needs to be replaced. It is possible to take the outer piston completely out and put it back in and have it work fine again (after bleeding). HOWEVER, if the inner piston came out too far then that could be a real problem. As I show in the tear-down in the video, if the inner piston/nut comes out too far, you will lose the ball bearings that it rides on and it probably won't be possible to get them back in (at least I don't know how to reinstall them). In your case, turning on the ebrake without having the pads in there likely would have driven that inner piston out. I would be worried that you very well might have lost the ball bearings in this case. In that case, unfortunately, you will probably have to replace the caliper. If that is NOT the case, and you do manage to push the outer piston in, you will at least want to bleed the brake caliper since having the piston out likely introduced air into the brake system.

@@JohnsDIY I didn't notice that piston nut out far enough for the bearings to fall out and I didn't see anything on the ground. Yes I do plan on bleeding the brakes as well. To be on the safe side I called various Honda dealers to order another caliper, end result they all said theirs a nationwide back order on them and they have no eta when they will be back in stock! I did however track a 2019 caliper down from a salvage yard. Weather permitting I will install it tomorrow. Thank you again!

@@Carloscda40 Geez, what a pain that we still have those supply issues at this point! Good luck with the install!

Good question! But unfortunately I do not believe that would work. The issue is that the piston does not retract all the way even when the car is running. It only retracts just enough to take the pressure off the pads. This way when you engage the parking brake it is very quick since the piston only has to travel a short distance. If it retracted all the way each time then there would be a much longer delay when engaging the parking brake. As a result, even if you unplug the brake motor with the engine running, the piston is not fully retracted and generally won't be retracted enough to fit in a new set of pads that are much thicker than the old worn ones. In fact, you don't even have to disconnect the electrical connector when the car is running, you can just turn off the car without engaging the parking brake and the piston will be in the same position as if you unplugged the connector with it running (and the parking brake off). In either case, the parking brake piston will be pushed out just barely shy of pressing on the brake pads.

Oh, bummer. How did that happen, did you turn on the electronic parking brake when the caliper was off the vehicle or something? If the piston physically stopped rotating (hit a hard stop) then that likely means that the inner piston is fully retracted and you just have to push the outer piston in. Can you get in between the piston and the ears of the caliper with a pry bar and see if you can start the piston moving back in until there is room to fit in a caliper tool? You might be able to use a C-Clamp to press it in if you can ge a c clamp in there but be careful to not damage the plastic casing of the servo motor on the back of the caliper. What kind of press-in tool are you using? There are some really thin ones available - the kind with a flat metal bar and screw knob in the middle: shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/performance-tool-disc-brake-pad-spreader-compresses-inner-pad-and-resets-piston-for-easy-pad-replacement-w209/11957856-p Maybe you can get something like that in there? I think you might still be okay. The real problem would be if the inner piston came all the way off. I think it should still be possible to get the outer piston pushed in. Also, if it came all the way out it might not be aligned perfectly and that could prevent it from sliding in, so make sure it looks well lined-up.

Yes, I have successfully used that method (windback tool which rotates and presses) on my Honda Accord with no issues. I don't know for certain if your Civic uses a similar caliper but would imagine so. Officially, Honda service data suggests using a scan tool to enter "Maintenance Mode" to retract the piston and then using a tool to push the piston in the remainder of the way. Alternatively, Honda service data says that if you aren't using the HDS (Honda's scan tool) then removing the parking brake actuator and using a TORX socket to turn the spindle back is an alternative method. However, if you look at the teardown and cross-section in the video, I think you can convince yourself that rotating the piston in accomplishes the same goal. The only possible downside of this method that I can see is that you have to be careful to ensure that the dust boot is spinning freely on the piston so that it doesn't bunch up as you rotate the piston. This wouldn't be a concern for methods that don't rotate the piston, so perhaps that is why they are recommended. However, it is not a big deal to ensure that the boot is spinning freely just as was done on all the older style calipers with the manual parking brakes.

Can you elaborate on what you mean by "isn't working now"? What is not working? Does the parking brake not engage on that side? The brake on that side doesn't engage at all (with the brake pedal)? What are you seeing?

Never mind I kept watching and your legit thank so damn much you have no idea how bad I’ve been needing to do these rear pads and now rotors thanks to you I don’t need to do the calipers

@@mikeneff832 Sorry for the delay! Yep, you do have to rewind the inner screw in some fashion (by rotating the piston, applying 12V to the motor to spin it, removing the motor and spinning the shaft, or via a scan tool). Once the inner piston is retracted then you can just push the outer piston in the rest of the way. Good luck with the brake job!!

If you take off the piston, I am sure there is a way to load the ball bearings back in but I don't know the trick and it is definitely going to be a challenge I would say. There are lots of tiny balls and a spring which appears to put tension on them. I think it will be very hard to get back together.

Hi Michael, It is on very tight. I was able to put a screwdriver at the edge of the boot where it mates with the caliper and give it a few whacks with a small hammer which forced it off.

Yep, I wasn't sure about it either until I dug into it. Pretty handy that they designed it to work fine either way!

@@JohnsDIY good to know . Thanx for the explanation

I just checked and it is actually a 12mm External Torx socket for driving the shaft.