Best brake video!

I didn't know you could twist it. I will try this tomorrow. Thanks for the tip.

Awesome! I was totally stuck and worried I would have to buy a new caliper until I watched you. Thank you, and keep up the great content!

I swear that Hondas were designed by mechanics. They are a dream to work on.

I use a nylon brush even a cheap brand of tooth brush will work a metal wire brush can tear the boot or any other rubber. Also use a silicone lubricant spray don’t use WD-40 it’s a petroleum-based product, which will eat rubber. You can simply use a spray bottle with soap and water in it to clean the rubber boot while it’s wet use your nylon brush or tooth brush to get the brake dust and road grime off the boot. Dry the boot spray it with silicone lube so it doesn’t stick to the caliper and twist up. Use the appropriate specialty tool to turn the screw piston in all the way so it will clear the pad when you put the caliper back on the vehicle. Don’t cheap out and use a pair of pliers a screwdriver, or a prybar. Put the caliber back on and put your bolts in and tighten them to torque specs spray down the caliber and rotor one last time with brake cleaner so you don’t contaminate the pads and you’re done.

Thank you so much for this video it really helped me out a lot I thought I was going to have to replace my caliper until I saw that you have to spin it to decompress it

Thanks, in the middle of doing this right now and your video was a real help.

Had a siezed caliper cylinder on a 15 si...thanks man!

This certainly helped me. Nice one mate. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.

Very good presentation. My son has a 2015 Honda Accord, we used C-Clamp, couldn't compress the piston. I thought the caliper was bad, and plan to replace it. This video shown us how to compress the piston without special tool, and we follow it, works out like a charm. All techniques introduced here is very useful (including how to use DW40 to do lubrication). Thank you for providing us this information. Very appreciate your kindness.

RB, thanks so much for the suggestion to put some grease on the thin washers to keep them from falling out. Those things were driving me bonkers. Have a blessed year.

I’m a express tech at a dealership and even though all I do is change oil and do the basic stuff but I’ll learning a lot from your videos

Thanks man this helped. My dumbass kept twisting the piston, and fixing the twisted boot. Took me like 15 minutes just to push the piston back since I was constantly trying to fix the boot

Wished I saw your video before I bought a new caliper. At least I learn something new. Thanks 🙏

Since I don’t have the tool, and since I don’t have a crowbar with a wide enough edge, I ended up using a large flat file. The edge of the flat file fit into the groove and I was able to have enough leverage to rotate the piston clockwise and down. Thanks for the video.

WD 40 is petroleum based and as such will break down and destroy any rubber. Use a silicone based lube, after cleaning instead.

I have watched different video,s how to screw in the calliper and you are the only one that lighned the slots in a strait line up and down .thanks

Thanks man this really helped me . I changed my wife back brakes and couldn’t get the cylinder back compressed with the C-clamp . Watch your video followed the steps we’re on the road again lol 😂 thanks again !!

Excelente video .Gracias

Vid Rating: ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ Thank you this video was “very useful”. Happy New Year 🎊 and I wish you a wealthy, healthy, and happy 2022.

Thank you RB... Gonna make changing the brake pads on my 2005 a lot easier.

Excellent video. Thank you very much

Amazing job, saved me time cost and effort ! Thank you !

Thanks for this video. I was doing it wrong . Was a big help.❤

Thanka for the video! Helped me with mine, I didnt know it was the rotating type

This is really helpful, thank you!

Video helped a lot. Thank you!!!

Thanks bro I was going (no were)😤 until I watched your video 👍

Super helpful!! Had them both done in about 15 minutes

Good video. I gotta say you made a good point about spraying WD 40 on those boots. Thank You

Thank you! Well Done Sir!!!

Great video bro! Clean and lube rubber first. Didn't know about special tool... Found your video. The pry bar trick rocks!!! Thanks 👍

Great video! Thanks

👍Great job i like your 📹video

Great job man.

Great video RB ! , thank you sir, 10/10 😃

Beautiful job!

Thanks bro for the help, great video!

Good job my brother, God blessed you :)

Glad you mensioned the brake tool this will make my job a whole lot easier thnx bro

Great explanation. A question: What can I do when the rear wheel of my Honda Accord is stuck after changing the brake pads? Thanks

Thank you !!!! Was about to give up 😂 gotter done thanks to you

Good job my friend 👌

Good content buddy. Yeah Honda, Nissan/Infiniti, and some Fords have these rewind pistons on their rear Calipers.

Great details thank you

I was stuck on that, the dust boot kept going with the piston, now i know what to do! Thank you

Great video!!

excellent video. thanks

RB great video. Thanks so much for the tip of filing down the pad ears when they resist going into the hardware easily. My question is how do you keep those metal washers from falling out of the bolt hole when putting the caliper back on the mount bracket over the pads? My last install was very frustrating as those metallic washers continued to fall out, when I would put the bolt in. What function do those washers serve? Much success in your business and the videos.

Great video, I am just doing this for the first time on a honda civic SI, it has the same type of caliper as in your video. How do I know the piston is turned back in all the way. I am using one of those square blocks on my ratchet. The piston is still about 3/16" out of the caliper and its very hard to turn in anymore. The parking brake is off as far as I can tell. Thanks for the help.

WD40 is also available in a silicone spray, and you should be using this to lube all rubber parts.

worked like a charm I’ve never seen a piston that needs twisting

Good video

This was great. I have a accord and i also have a 02 crv. However I'm trying to figure out how to free the piston that is stuck compressed down on one of my rears of the caliber of my 02 crv. Can break it loose or just replace the caliber? I noticed it when doing my brakes. 237k on the crv!

Awesome, thank you

Your video was well done!!! I think you should add a link to the comments for the tool that you used to back off the piston...I found it at Harbor Freight for $44.99

Superb!

Very nice

Helped a lot, gracias!

Thanks for this Vedio.I got Honda civic 2006 ,rear right side was so easy to comress and turn with needle nose plier, but rear left side is so solid/frozen that i cannot make it move even with comress tool.Please advise. Thanks

ANother good video! I just watched one of your others and asked why the piston needs to be turned while compressing. Can't you just use a large "C" clamp like you can on the front calipers?

Where did you get the tool you used with the 3/8 or 1/4 drive? I’ve only ever seen them with cheap handles that don’t give a lot of leverage.

That part of the seal is the outer part of the seal , they always get stuck to the pistons like that on higher mileage and or older cars , I usually avoid that happening by VERY carefully lifting just the tiniest smallest outter area of that seal with a plastic trim panel/upholstery removal tool and shoot in the smallest bit of PB blaster of Deep Creep , clear around the piston where the seal sits with a nylon or brass brush , giving the PB a few minutes to work it's way in well . Make sure when your done that you get off as much of the penetrating oil or grease as you can using brake cleaner, if you leave any petroleum based fluids or substances in there , their tackyness will accumulate tons of dust and dirt which obviously one always should take measures to avoid happening to what ever parts your working wish , cleanliness is Godlyness especially when working with car parts. Edit: wow I just only now watched the video paying attention this time around just to realize the guy in video does basically exactly what I recommended in my comment which obv I left before actually paying attention the video , whoops. One rather important and relevant bit of info I will leave speaking against the process's this guy uses hopefully to save someone out there a headache is don't ever try to put pressure against a piston on a caliper of this style when attempting to thread it back in UNLESS you want to risk fracturing or outright breaking a chunk off your calipers piston as they are honestly not that strong and surely do not always respond well to all the required pressure needed to thread it back in applied on only one single small and isolated section of the piston from using a tool such as a pry bar to keep preszure against it. The pistons in brake calipers are only of a cast type construction and not all too thick usually,, sometimes on newer cars they now are even made out of composite mix of metals and ceramic type materials, which obviously most I believe would know that most all cast metals and ceramics are already on their own prone to cracking, especially when force is applied to them on just a small area instead of spread out as even as possible over as much of the parts surface area possible , which is one of the primary reasons specialty tool kits are made and widely available for calipera of this style which most call threaded calipers, so yeah , forget about the pry bar and by a tool kit made to do this job the right way, they are widely available and really are very cheap, usually no more than only half the price of a remaned or new caliper , so why take a chance and risk doing senseless short cuts , brakes are no place for short cuts if you value human life that is

Great video

Couple Questions: Is it only Honda that makes these type of brake piston/cylinders that you have to compress with a special tool? Does the tool just sit around when you're not working on a Honda? Since you ultimately wind up having to use a pry bar anyways, I think I'm going to hold off on buying that expensive tool that I may use once or twice.

What about a Honda Accord 2007 EX 4 Cylinders? It is the same process? Or every honda is the same on rear brakes piston?

Thankx

You can also use a 1/2 in extension on a short ratchet. Just put it in the center, push and turn.

Ey es cierto k se tiene k abrir el aire de frenos cuando ases esto

i left one of the boot twisted because i couldn't get the air out.. the boot isn't blocking the metal piston part when i installed it back in. would that be okay and would that cause air to be in the brake line? thanks in advance.

Can I just compress the piston to inside without twisting? I have a brake pad spreader tool. Thanks.

Thanks just did it

my 2016 toyota corolla ones are a pain in the butt. The rubber boot keeps getting twisted? Any tips? I tried WD40. I am using the toolkit rented from autozone to spin it

Does the VW JETTA 2021 need to be twisted or turned to retract on the caliper?

I didn’t know it had to be aligned I twisted it in but don’t remember if I put it straight the boot went in good tho Will that cause any problems I’ll have to redo them

My caliper boot has twisted. Do i need to buy a whole new kit for the caliper?

That's why I always clean those seals and lubricate then with brake grease before I start spinning those calipers back in , if you don't that F'd up outter dust seal for the piston being destroyed is what you'd get most the time which obviously your well aware is not the goal here lol I'm not done with the video yet and just heard you say " you don't even need a special tool , just a good pry bar" , that at was a red flag for me , and finally the video is finished and yes spinning them back in with a large flat head or decent sized pry bar or even a wood chise or piece of 1 inch wide 1/8 thick flat stock steel can all do the same job , but what the tool ensures is that you don't slip out of the groove with the screwdriver or pry bar and all to often as it then goes end up cutting the that outter caliper piston dust seal, ive seen and worked with at least a dozen guys who just have themselves connived that short cuts and cutting corners dont have a negative outcome , and they dont all the tine , but all to often they do and that is not how I work , I take more pride in my work and care about the quality of the job more than anything for rhe customer sake and safety. If you accidently while pushing hard on thst pry bar while trying to get thst piston to start spinning in and slipped off and even nicked the smallest little cut in that outer dust shield then you can guarantee that that particular caliper is going to fail not to far off in the future , comprosing the customers safety potentially and costing them more money in repairs needed due to techs like yourself being ignorant of the fact that their previous corning cutting is what caused the calipers failure. What happens is dirt and water get in there and will pack in and rub against the inner piston fluid seal ,eventually cutting through it causing an extremely dangerous brake fluid leak while the customer is driving , that doesn't happen as often , the most often result of those outer dust seals being damaged by people taking short cuts is the moisture build up there behind that outer seal will cause corrosion to form on the bore walls of the caliper which in not to distant a future absolutely always will lead to the caliper piston seizing and the car breaking down and needing now not just a new caliper but also almost certainly also new rotor and pads as well as bracket clips on that side because seized calipers don't just suddenly seize completely outta no where , they first start sticking and therefore operating at much higher a temperature than designed to withstand and that increased heat will cause the caliper piston to expand and completely seize and lock up which will in a very brief time get so hot that the rotor and pads on that corner of the vehicle will be scortched to hell and back , and honestly a lot of times I have cars with locked up calipers that were driven in that condition instead of immediately no longer being driven , I usually recommend also having rhe abs sensor ajd wheel bearing reaplaced as the brakes often get so hot that I bakes the grease in the wheel bearing which will due to lack of lubrication cause the wheel bearing to begin wearing out at a rapid rate eventually failing completely. The abs sensors I replace bechar again due to such high temperatures it was exposed to , once cooled off , their platic bodies are so damn brittle that its almost impossible to remove them to do a wheel bearing replacement without the sensors crumbling apart into pieces , and all because in the end a mechanic decided to do a repair without using the proper tool that is designed specifically only for it's one job , and close poorly to use a hackers method thinking they can get the same job accomplished without the special tool , and like I said I've seen it dozens of times , guys do what you did , slip off the caliper piston causing a small or large tear in that outer dust seal. I'd rather take moe time to do rhw job right and make less money , than do a job faster and make more money but end up due to taking the butcher's short cut cost the custimer more money down the road abd potentially compromising their safety and well being . What is so hard about just doing things the right way ? I'll never understand why some people do butcher work but taking short cuts and somehow don't seem to understand that they actually just fucked up the car worse in the process of trying to fix it.

I tried doing this as well and ended up ripping the seal 😢 is there a way to install a new seal or do i need a whole new caliper, and also is it bad if i drive it for a few weeks til i get that seal

After twisting it in, will it just come back out on its own or is there a way to retwist it back?

The piston turns...But not going in...I'm using a wide pride bar and putting pressure on it....I also open the fluid cap...I done this before but not working...any suggestions?

wow u did good

Work smarter not harder..you only remove lower caliper screw to flip caliper upwards.. never use wire brush on seals.. brake cleaner is all you need..

If you twist anticlockwise will it decompress piston?

Ah, sanity check. I couldn't remember if the calipers turned clockwise or counterclockwise. Also, it helps to crack the bleeder valve before cranking down the piston to relieve the pressure.

open up the brake fluid cap too.....it relieves some of the pressure

Why do we have to turn the piston and not just pressed it in with a c-clamp and one of the pads? thank you

Myth: WD-40® Multi-Use Product is not really a lubricant. Fact: While the “W-D” in WD-40® stands for Water Displacement, WD-40® Multi-Use Product is a unique, special blend of lubricants. The product's formulation also contains anti-corrosion agents and ingredients for penetration, water displacement and soil removal.

Do you need to bleed the brakes once you change brake pads and compress the piston?

Thanks. Silicone spray is the one that shoud you use instead of wd40.

I've just done the o/s caliper no problem but the n/s one refuses to retract back, it is turning fine just won't seem to go back in, any ideas?

Can I just press it with U clamp, or has to be twist?

Funny thing is I never had that tool, I only ever used the pry bar. Just a poor boy working with what I got

I will NOT use WD 40, I prefer brake cleaner, and before the piston go back in, I use a syringe to inject a few CC of brake fluid behind the dust seal. That lub the area the piston had to travel on and no more seize caliper.

You can use a screw driver or a flat metal to turn the rear caliper to

does the boot like the wire brush?

Nice! saved me over 110usd

Great video brotha, I found a universal tool 3/8 drive at oriellys for 14 bucks. Part number W80621

It's because in the stupid manual it says turn clockwise to compress the piston. So you end up turning and turning the piston and nothing happens except for the boot gets distorted. Hayes!

I did this for the first time on my son’s Corolla last week. I noticed the boot was twisting so just backed the calliper piston off a quarter turn. All good. I had to watch another video on how to compress the rear piston first. Does anyone know why they can’t just be pushed back into the calliper like the front ones? I was amazed that they needed screwing back! 😳

I'm leery of using a wire brush on rubber parts...is this OK? I think you may be better off using a nylon or similar brush with plastic fibers. Wire brush is fine if you avoid the rubber and just use it on the rusty metal parts. Same with WD-40...this product contains solvents (petroleum distillates) that are not good for rubber (and paint!) . The rubber can eventually dry out and crack. I'd recommend a silicone lubricant (or even an emulsified product like Armor-All, but be sure to avoid brake surfaces. Just dab it on a rag and wipe it on the rubber). Dude I'm a chemistry major and know what I'm talking about. I dont know how long it would take for the rubber to dry out and crack, and maybe you've been doing this forever with no problems, but I wouldnt recommend it. Otherwise great video and you're saving people a lot of time and grief. Here's a video on how to protect rubber boots on the underside of your car: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/oZdppsdp2aqlnnk.html