Awesome, Dirtriders, that's great to hear! Congrats on your first rebuild🍻

@@nickstransmissions it was a bit of a rough ride I’ll admit I went at it with no information on the first round and learned as I went. First try was catastrophic cost me a new reverse drum and band. I made so many mistakes from poor Teflon seal installs to not getting things clean enough. I learned thought and bought all the special tools to do it right. Really appreciate your videos and giving your time to the people who want your help. Have a great day

You're welcome, man...Glad you were able to power through it and get the vehicle back on the road. Thanks again for watching!

Thank you for the kind words, Jim!!

Thanks, John, great to hear! Please subscribe if you havent already. Ill be putting out more 4L and 6L videos in the coming days/weeks...

You're welcome and thank you!

Thanks again, Kevin. I stopped using shift kits for most transmissions a while ago as most of the time a shift kit isn't needed to calibrate shifts and achieve performance. I do use a kits for a couple transmission types for their corrective parts (i.e. the Transgo Tugger for 4R100s). All of my numbered drill bit sets are either metric or SAE and I just use whichever best fits the need. Some transmissions like the TH350 and TH400 can have the feed hole sizes expressed as 1/8 (.125) or 3/16 (.1875).

They are but your 1-2 shift will be a little bit firmer, all other things equal. The 1-2 shift will be more firm if you pair the pinless piston with Sonnax heavy duty accumulator spring.

Hi Morewaterslides, thank you for watching and the compliments. First thing I'd do is check your servo travel...Remove the servo assembly, then take off the o-rings and large, front scarf cut seal...Then reinstall the assembly, including the main return spring, and cover snap ring...Then push inwards on the servo cover and see how far the assembly will travel before it comes to a complete stop. You shouldnt have more than .175" of inboard travel. If you do, shim the servo... Next check the 1-2 accumulator housing, if you haven't already done so. Your 1-2 acc spring may be broken. Installing the corvette servo and Sonnax pinless will make that 1-2 shift even worse/more harsh so I'd keep the 1-2 acc piston and spring set up factory for now (or even install a softer spring, if you can find one...Overly harsh, late 1-2 shifts will eventually break the band - ive seen many of these come in with broken bands and no 2nd and 4th gear complaints... Drill your 2-3 and 3-4 feeds along with the band release to .093. Leave the 1-2 shift feed hole in the plate the same for now. Lastly, purchase the Sonnax 4L60E-LB1 as that boost valve is likely worn out by now.

@@nickstransmissions Thanks Nick! This put my mind at ease. I'll be sure to update my progress in the coming weeks when parts come in and the job is done.

You're welcome, man!

@@nickstransmissions Finally got everything installed! I did however make one minor mistake. I installed the connector to the pressure control solenoid in reverse. It ended blowing the trans fuse on the interior fuse panel as a result. Once corrected, the truck ran great! A jammed 1-2 check ball ended up being the major culprit to this project.

You're welcome, Speedfreak - thank you for watching!

Hi Eric, thank you for watching...What drivability symptoms are you having? The 3-4 shift valve simply strokes to enable apply oil to go into the 4th gear servo apply circuit, enabling an upshift from 3rd; it's a relatively simple valve train.

Thanks, man!

Hi Tip, thank you for watching. Yep, I've seen that as well...Not sure what those people were thinking as the gasket set is literally less than $2.00 at most places.

If you're referring to the steel sleeve, that's from the company Fitzall and it's designed to repair the 1-2 check ball location which is often heavily worn and occassionally the check ball will get stuck in the plate. The sleeve prevents that from ever happening.

Hi Javier, yes - just purchase the Fitzall valve for your vintage (2001-2005; type 'Fitzall 4L60E 2003 in Google search bar to find it on Amazon) and it will address TCC regulator bore leaks and convert the PWM TCC apply to an on-off. If you are still getting P1870/Component Slipping DTC after you install that valve then the cause is somewhere else in the transmission or the torque converter itself.

Nope, no o-rings or seals on the EPC.

Y'all are awesome at answering questions. Thank you.

You're welcome, man and thank you for watching!

None on that specifically - are you having a 2-3 flare shift in your 4L60E?

Hi Dominic, there could be a number of reasons including a leak in the 2-3 apply circuit (like partially pinched turbine shaft sealing rings), excessive 3-4 clutch pack clearance, forward drum leaking at the input shaft, improperly drilled spacer plate, solenoid B delay in coming off, drag in the 2-3 shift or 2-3 shuttle valve, etc.

@@nickstransmissions I have it apart. pressure tested the drum sitting in the pump with and without the reverse input drum. I change the rings a second time with a resizer and had no change. 3-4 clutch clearance is .040, was .030 when I installed it. Band clearance is .090, was .070 when I installed it. I pressure tested the input drum and no leaks around the shaft. I installed a new capsule on the initial build, and another when I changed the valve body trying to fix the problem. There's only 2 things I found, one is the servo pin bore will only pull 7" of vacuum, the other is the new spacer plate afl hole is .093, but while not ideal I can't see how that would give no 2-3 shift at wot. I was thinking maybe the pin bore is letting band release oil into the 4th gear piston, but I'm not sure if that would be able to delay the shift. I checked all the usual suspects, but I'm stumped.

The spacer plate's AFL balance hole is definitely a problem for WOT shifting, especially at higher power levels. Think about the factory orifice diameter and compare it to .093 in your plate - thats a fair amount of AFL pressure bleed off at a time when you need max AFL pressure. Did you install load release springs in the 3-4 pack? Have you blocked the 3-2 control valve inboard? Do you have an inner spring inside the main AFL valve spring? What about the AFL valve itself - how much vacuum is it holding (should be minimum of 18" for anything high performance and my standard is 20")? What are the hole sizes for the band release (2-3 accumulator) and 2-3 feed? What boost valve is installed? You have a 2-3 shift at WOT but it's flaring due to a delay in the full compression of that clutch pack relative to band release timing. That AFL balance hole is something id fix via peening the plate or getting another one...Band clearance is fine, has nothing to do with the 2-3 flare. That is all sourced within the 3-4 apply circuit or clutch pack set up unless you have a weak solenoid or defective PCM (I've seen examples of both).

@@nickstransmissions It's actually not a flare, just doesn't shift to 3rd unless I really let off the throttle. Running the car on the lift if I put it in manual low and get the speed up with light throttle as soon as i put the selector in 2 it shifts perfectly to 2nd, then if I get the speed up higher and put the selector in D it takes about 3 full seconds to shift to 3rd. Once in 3rd it doesn't slip. It's not releasing the band before the 3rd clutches apply, so no flare. I can't tell if the 3rd clutches are on before the band release, but it doesn't feel like a tie up. It's almost like a delayed shift but the timing between the band release and clutches is okay. This one is a stock rebuild with no performance mods except a .500 boost valve. I did change the seperator plate because a ball was through it. It has the same exact shift problem with 2 different valve bodies. I did not however try a different plate before tearing it back down. I should have. I expected to find a cut teflon shaft seal, but they look perfect.

Sounds like a 3-4 circuit line pressure problem to me likely caused by that AFL balance orifice (and/or perhaps other things)...Put a new plate on it, keep the hole size factory, drill everything else as you have previously and upgrade the 3-4 pack to a 8 or 9 clutch stack up...Alto and Raybestos both make 'max packs' or you can build your own by machining apply/backing plates and mixing/matching steels and frictions until you get the stack up you want. Cope Racing also makes a high perf drum that allows for 8 or 9 clutches and steels, may be worth taking a look at.

Hi Walter, you can run whichever year Fitzall valve for the TCC regulator if it's both worn and in need of conversion to an on-off. Otherwise two .187 check balls in between the spring and both valves (can be acquired via Amazon) will accomplish the same thing for basically nothing. If you have the inboard valve that is cylindrical and has a 'pocket' for the spring, simply turn it around in the bore so the back of that valve faces the spring. That will also convert the PWM to an 'on-off' mechanically. Block the 4th acc feed in the case with a cup plug and leave the bore itself completely empty.

@@nickstransmissions Hey Thank You for getting back to me so fast, I appreciate it!!, OK Not sure if you remember but im the guy with the 87 Buick T-type LS conversion, 4L65E (2008 Valve Body) , She slips in 4th, 1-2, 2-3 and 3-4 shift good and she even cruises good in 4th But if i lay into her the slightest she slips, I believe that the Bet Performance Servo is the culprit, I remember i didnt like the way the servo was kinda loose when assembled, I reached out to the owner of the company and he said to scuf the seeling ring with some light sand paper, Now he denies that he said that and says he told me to take the seal off and stretch but That sis not what he told me the first time, Anyway its funny because now has updated his servo and i believe its the 4th piston that is different, i believe he redesigned it and is using a factory OEM seal, He wont send me the the revised version with out paying and knows i had this issue from day one, so moving along i wanted to know if i should get a sonax super hold servo kit? Walter

You're welcome, Walter. How many miles on the transmission? Was it recently rebuilt or just installed as a used unit? 'Bet Performance' manufactured the servo assembly? You can install the Sonnax super hold servo to see if that fixes the problem; if it's only slipping in 4th gear I would investigate both the servo as well as 4th accumulator to see if the seal is excessively worn. Also verify your servo inboard travel - should be between .075-.125 for optimal band clearance.

@@nickstransmissions Hi Nick, Good Morning, Thansmission was brand new on a pallet , Long story short the Car is supercharged and makes a lot of power, And my Budget was to beef up the valve body and Servo assembly as best as i could for it to hold the gears, I know i need a fully Built Transmission for my application But for now i wasnt going to do 1/4 mile racing , Just a pull in the street and mostly cruising to some local car shows etc,, Yes Bet Performance makes the servo, i believe its a private independent guy, Not sure why i didnt get the Sonax to begin with, Anyway, i have a Car Cruise set up for june 2nd that i organize every year coming up and after that i would like to drop the pan and VB and set the valve body up the right way, I did a transgo shift kit and sonax 1-2 and foward pinless accumulators, I believe i didnt do anything to the 4th accumulator up in the case besides what Transgo said to do, I think replace the factory spring for a transgo spring, Anyway i have a good feeling that the Bet Performance servo is causing the issue, i believe that its leaking past the seal aand not holding the band, Cant go wrong at this point with a Sonax servo, but i would like to do the proper things to the VB for Max apply and hold, Not sure what else needs to be done and what to drill the spacer plate out to, i do have a PTC 2,800 stall with Lock up installed, Maybe you can help me with that, Walter

@@nickstransmissions Hi Nick, When using the Sonax servo i believe the holes in the spacer plate need to be drilled out larger than .093 that the Transgo kit requires , What hole sizes do you recommend?