That’s a really clever tip Jeremiah, thank you!

Thanks Logan! When is your next video dropping?

@@EigenDesigns came out yesterday. I hav another coming out tomorrow 👍

The magport connectors are awesome. They are pretty pricy, but it makes connecting and disconnecting dust collection an instant thing.

You are going to love it. I use mine all the time and for things I never even thought of when I first bought mine.

Thanks so much for the support Ron! I hope you found this helpful.

Thank you :) You're first yet again

@@EigenDesigns I'm ubiquitous :p

That's a really good idea! Thanks Blake. That would certainly cut down on the sanding needs on the back end. Thanks for the tip.

Hey Russell, a few people expressed some confusion about cutting "on the line" vs on the outside of the line so I actually updated the DXF file yesterday to increase the opening to 3/4" so people can cut on the outside of the line. I hope this will help simplify things. Also, that's a good idea to include the dimensions in the instructions. It's included in the listing description, but it would also be helpful in the instructions. Thanks for the tips!

My copy that I purchased last week wasn’t updated apparently. I cut inside and outside wasting 2 really nice pieces of walnut, before looking up what the problem was. The engraving is extremely light as well. You can barely see the lower left. My Avid 6060 is trimmed in to .002 across X and Y. The wood was .758”. I set it at .750” so I didn’t hit my spoilboard. It left. .008” all around, so I know the wood was level as well.

@@shockdocracing What's your order number so I can help get this resolved?

¡Muchos gracias! Qué tengas un lindo día.

Thanks Keith. What's funny is that you posted your comment as I was making the final edits to part 2 of this video. I just posted it so you should check it out if you like this type of content: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/i8x5bKua0d6roZ8.html

@@EigenDesigns Will do. I find your videos are very well done.

Thanks Craig :)

i just imported the dxf file into carveco did the 3/4 bowl bit toolpath at .15 per pass and stepover of 8 % and toolpath summary said 2hrs 35 min. lol how did you do it in 16 minutes ? i think im missing something LOL

Hey Jon - you sure can. Just import the DXF file into your CNC software of choice and create your own tool paths from there. There is an instructional PDF included in your purchases that will help you with contour selection, cutting depths, feeds and speeds, etc. Good luck!

Hey John, I unfortunately don't. I wish I could be of more help to you

Actually I mean something like the tray for the beer glasses. They seem to fit like a gloove. Love it. On a mass scale, is the router able to get always a fine cut or what would you say will be the allowance? thank you

It's a good question. The answer will depend on what kind of a CNC you have. My OneFinity operates on ball screws instead of elastic belts so it can make repeated cuts without losing accuracy over time. Any time I have carved something in large quantities I haven't experienced any variation in the final products. I hope this helps answer your question.

@@EigenDesigns It does! Thanks a lot mate!

Maybe I’m just been lucky so far?

I have tried a few different types of double sided tape and been unlucky to have the pieces move on me during a carve. It could be the 1” grid lines on my spoilboard prevent the tape from getting a good bond, but I’m not sure. I’ve never had that issue with the painters tape method.

The CNC I use is called a OneFinity (linked below) and the router I use is a Makita Router (also linked below: CNC: www.onefinitycnc.com/cnc-machines Router: amzn.to/3GbBZQv

Appreciate the support Joseph!

Thanks for the support. I agree that Fusion 360 has a lot of capability if you're willing to go through the "learning curve" since its not as user friendly as some of the other software out there. In this video I didn't really focus on the design aspects, but there are two other CNC videos where I go into more detail on this process, including the workflow that you're talking about. I recommend you check out these two videos I did a while back to see if that helps you in your journey: video 1: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qtF7dadl2sfTgaM.html Video 2: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hLyAeLGErNaZqps.html

Hey Ed, you can find them on my website: eigendesigns.com or you can see the links in the video description.

I use a OneFinity CNC. I have been very happy with it so far after ~8 months of use. I think its a great machine for anyone looking to do some CNC work.

Thanks AutoRaiders!

Hey Ryan, I typically run my bowl bit at 160 in/min with an RPM of ~15,000.

@@EigenDesigns are you doing .125 / .25 doc per pass? i have a 3/8' bowl bit , so i have my dia set .375, ipm of 160 plung of 70, but im unsure how much to do the doc per pass. i have to go .75 for my veg tray, *material is 1"* or do you think i should only go 1/2" depth and leave 1/2" of mass to the bottom? figuring out this first tray is rough XD

@@SpwnDragn with a 3/8" bowl bit you could do 0.2" per pass. A trick I have learned is to watch the size of the cuttings and listen to the router as you're making your cut. If the cuttings are very small/fine, lower your RPM. If you hear your router actively struggling to cut the piece at your given feed rate, increase your RPM. The key is to feed that information back on subsequent cuts to find the right balance between those two things.

@@EigenDesigns gotcha thank you

It's always a risk, but I haven't encountered that issue yet. I always use kiln dried wood that has acclimated to my shop so I am sure that helps. You should give something like this a try, worse thing that happens is you ruin less than a board foot of wood. If it ends up warping on you I will mail you a stable one for free.

@@EigenDesigns Thank you for the words. I'll give it a try when I can. It was just one of my worries that I ask random woodworker channels about and most say never do it. Yet I see so many videos. You are honestly the first person I asked that responded positively. I guess I got rooted in my fears when even Wyrmwood had an episode and talked about trays, asked them and they told me not to do it as well. I'm just a woodworker hobbyist, so still learning in my old age.

Thanks so much for the support Angie :)

That’s called a router table. I have a link to the one I am using in my description. It is called “Bosch Benchtop Router” and I used a 1/4” roundover bit to create that profile on the edge of my projects. I hope this helps!

The wood is 3/4" thick for that particular tray and the pockets are 1/2" deep

I didn’t build mine. It’s made by a company called OneFinity and they use those ball screws to move the router around. It’s a very still design and has remained accurate even after a years worth of use.

@@EigenDesigns ok, thanks for the info, I'll check them out.

Just sent you a DM on etsy

The design files come with a DXF file that you can import into Vcarve and make your own tool paths in that software.

Hey Dave, I am not sure which file you're referring to, but perhaps I can offer some suggestions. If you're looking to optimize the tool path for the dish groove you can import the DXF design file and create your own tool paths, rather than using the g-code files directly. I use fusion 360 for my software and often times the "adaptive clearing" will cause the circles that you're talking about so you can choose a contour cut to carve the channel for the dish instead. The easiest way to get rid of the ridges from the 3/4" bowl bit is to use a drill bit sanding attachment and lightly sand the bottom of the bowl. These are pretty cheap on amazon and make quick work of the ridges left behind by the drill bit. I have played around with the reduced step-over on the final pass and find that there are still markings left behind by the bit. If you need more support feel free to reach out to me through Etsy.

Always wondering the same thing

Hey John, you should have been given a DXF file as part of the purchase. If you don't have it, then shoot me your email through Etsy and I will mail it to you directly.

If you're going to use reclaimed wood, make sure you remove all nails, staples, and other metal objects before working with it

@@EigenDesigns really appreciate you and your channel

I use a OneFinity CNC. It’s a great machine - I would highly recommend it.

@@EigenDesigns ty

I just noticed what you’re talking about and it’s definitely a mixup on my part - great catch. The cutouts should be done with the end mill and the engraving should be done with the 90 degree v carve bit. Also, in general it’s better to do the engraving first before doing the cut out. You don’t have to do it in that order, but it’s a better habit to get into. Hopefully this clears up the confusion.

@@EigenDesigns Thanks. That clears it up. I'm working on updating the toolpaths in vectric and plan on doing some playing around this weekend. Thanks and again, great videos.

@@j.zamanma1312 thanks so much :):)

Hey Ivan, its from a company called MagPort. They are a bit expensive, but I use them all throughout my shop.

@@EigenDesigns yes I saw you use them a lot. I’m going to check them out. Your cnc cabinet has inspired me to build one for my Shapeoko

I just sell through Etsy. Etsy takes a cut of each sale, but its not terrible.

The trays were cut from 0.75” stock

Thanks I wasn't quite sure if that's standard or if they need to be thicker.

Hey Jim, I have a OneFinity CNC. They are great machines and pretty user friendly for those new to the space. The only down side is that they normally have a lead time to order one, but it’s worth the wait.

I use Fusion 360. There is a free version available for hobbists that I use. I would recommend it

Hey Ormond, I am using Fusion 360. They have a free version available for personal/hobby use.

Hey David, yes I design all of my files in Fusion 360