I have a 30x30 from the same company. They're just a couple miles from my house. I opted for their roof insulated. Front 10x10 rollup and 7x6 back. The slab was finished polished concrete. I etched it and sealed clear. I also want a lean to. Overall that did a great job with the building. I'm running my own electricity.

Broom finish is much safer than a polished. I agree, a light broom finish is best.

I did my building in the same colors. Mine is a 26 X 40 by Eagle Carports. I wasn’t planning on closed cell foam but did it after exacerbating my tinnitus working in there during a rain storm and Texas summer running me out of there. The price was ridiculous (10,000) and if something goes wrong with the electrical or water lines that were sprayed over I’m going to have to abandon what’s there and replumb or wire because cutting it out isn’t going to happen. Long story short, make sure you’re order of operations is correct. Instead of one of the mobile home doors, I’d go with the smallest roll-up door they make (I think maybe 4X7). Instead of centering the roll-up doors, (I designed mine to be a drive through building) I’d place them on one side so there wouldn’t be so much wasted space in the center of the building. Hopefully this helps someone.

I’m a general contractor and run into these problems regularly. You can rent a concrete polisher for about $80 a day and sand the garage floor down a bit and get a smooth finish, take you about 4 hours. Very easy to do. But you have to empty the garage. I would just paint some concrete stain on it when done to seal it up and easy clean with a blower. You can replace the side door yourself, looks like a standard door. Buy a pre hung same size and swap it out. One hour job Putting in extra windows is not that difficult, but if your not into doing it yourself buy the windows and doors and hire a local handyman to to the work. He should be able to do the job in less than a day for under $300

Looks great, I also have an American Steel Carport building. My building is 30' x 40'. I actually had a permit that included electrical, and I installed all the electrical myself after the building was installed. I am detail oriented and really liked installing the electrical, and I have a few friends in the field that were great resources. There are a lot of things to consider in a metal building when running electrical but I think it worth it for me and I saved a ton of $. I passed inspection without any issues. I'm having closed cell spray insulation installed in about a week. I am in an area that gets large temperature swings. I've heard for metal buildings closed cell is the way to go as it helps to add structure to the building and creates a moisture barrier as well. The down side is that is it way more expensive than other types and doesn't add anything to the doors. The concrete looks great, wondering if adding in sealer might help smooth it out a little or possibly polishing and or grinding it down a tiny bit in areas that don't need to be as rough before adding in a sealer. I've heard it helps to allow the concrete to set for at least 30 day prior to adding concrete seal. Now is the time to make it yours by improving it down the road as $ and time are available and making it "yours". Great job! Looks awesome, I agree the man doors are a little cheap.

30 X 40 X 14 vertical You’re spot on. (6) windows Two front two on each side leaving back wall for a mezzanine thus the fourteen ft. height. Double bubble insulat. After market 9 light entry door. (Lowes) 12’ X 12’ hoist type door. $23k Alan’s Installed last fall. *This is not advised however, this is building number two and I excavated myself using a builders level installed cap block pier’s on 5’ centre’s compacted levelled crush/run base prior to having buildings set. Also note I purchased a plated compactor from Harbor Freight $600 and compacted to my heart’s content. I found this cheaper than rent due to being able to trade off to my concrete contractor for some of the labor. With both buildings setting on 3.5” solid cap block I had poured a 5.5” thick 4000 PSI slab steel reinforced using hog fencing from Tractor Supply. This is heavy actually cheaper and puts regular concrete wire to shame. An extra pour of 6 additional inches base where a lift will live. We love the outcome and Alan’s was good to work with. WARNING! Any modifications to the metal structure voids the warranty. In other words I now have no warranty according to the individual representing the builder because I choose to be responsible for installing my own entry door. So be because the builder doors are simply trash. I know I did install the factory door on my first metal building. Good luck to everyone and as far as I’m concerned these buildings are the best bang for the buck if done right. My buildings passed all local requirements upon their completion. Do your own due diligence. Good luck out there… Jerry

Excellent video. Thanks. I'm looking at metal buildings and this really helps.

I am currently in the market for a building. Thanks for posting! I have definitely taken note.

Great honest feedback - thanks

This is really helpful. I had thought that the siding looks better run vertically, but the upcharges on these buildings add up fast, and before you know it, you've doubled your cost. I'm considering going over 30' span in order to get beefed-up framing so that it's sturdier, versus adding a lean-to and having posts on the interior. After all the options with discounts it's over $27k before even doing concrete!

Thanks for the tour and feedback!

I built a house a while back and had concrete floors everywhere. I got red powder, charcoal and threw it out on the wet slab. It was beautiful. Look like slate, however where I didn’t throw as much looked like boring concrete. I would do this again but make sure I hit every part more and try somehow to make the throw more consistent.

Get some crushed up tar for that driveway. With a rolling machine it will pack down like a finished paved driveway.

Commercial steel doors

Building looks great. Could cost double. On the concrete, you could have gotten a "trowled" finish. Even leaving it as it was bull floated. They'd still put in saw cuts. You should have plastic under the concrete and 2" foam, especially if heat is ever considered. I'd like the siding put on vertical but I see why, after all, its just an enclosed "car port" not a formal garage. Spray foam will make it nice in there. You can get those kits and do it yourself or bite the bullet and do it "professionally". The door, well, its a cheap car port so.....

When the tornadoes rip ot out you can do it right

Thanks for the video. Really helpful! I'm planning on a similar building from a similar company. I was wondering about the doors and windows. Question: Would you have opted to not install windows and add better third-party windows, later?

I hate that man door also. I was quoted 600$ for that door, or 900$ for a 9 lite man door. Or, I could have no door, have it framed for the opening for 300$ and buy my own door.

Bleesings

It’s a metal building.

I actually put a down payment on a building today. I paid extra for vertical siding. I see you didn’t. Is there any cons to horizontal siding?

Can't you add insulation still? I think you can do it yourself, depending on the type.

How much did your slab cost?

Umm....maybe put up a real pole barn instead of a cheap lightweight tin can?

Thanks for the good advice. I will keep this in mind. 🏗