The little button on the shut off lever is the cold start button

I just viewed a PBS segment on the Iowa PBS called "Tractor Wars" and Henry Ford got into the tractor game and because the Board of Directors (this was before Henry Ford snookered them and got control of the company) opposed Ford Motor Company getting into farm tractors. So he formed Fordson (meant Ford and Son) tractors. He got control of tractor sales until International Harvester introduced the Farmall line of tractors ( this was the low price end of the market making tractors affordable to the small farmer market). Any way as Henry Ford lost share of the market he moved Fordson production over to England and I think those tractors were produced up until the 1960's. The video is really educational and it is available on the You Tube Channel as well as PBS.

The fordson major & super major were two of the most reliable tractors built in the late 1940’s to early 1960’s and replaced by the Ford 5000, 🇬🇧🇮🇪 All of these were built in UK at Basildon Essex NR London. 🇬🇧

I enjoyed the process. I have never seen anyone less committed to applying ether before. I have literally started and ran a diesel engine on ether until it was running on properly on diesel. Did you try to pull it? it could be that the "brake" is seized.

I have the same tractor, you have to prime the pump. Also we put an in line water heater in main radiator hose. Prepares the block after a half hour or so. Starts right up

I haven’t screamed at a KZfaq video for a long time! Thanks!! More ether sooner and lift the wheels!! The clutch is frozen in the disengaged position

Tyler you're a good friend !

A trailer and a winch. Get it on home territory. It wants to run just needs a lot of TLC.

Up is high range and down is low. Who’d a thunk, right? Shifter is a H, with one and two on the left, three on the right, forward. Reverse is on the right and back. That is a beautiful machine and you need to read up on it, before you kill it.

it looked like it was sticking at the rear wheels. why didn't you hook it to your truck and drag it to free the brakes?

Oh that's great it gets better by the minute

Pretty tough crowd. Hard starting and running could be down a valve not seating. Poor injector or poor primary pump pressure. Compression check, fresh fuel and rebuild the mechanical fuel pump won't cost much. Work out if the clutch mechanism is functioning and or the brakes are seized. With the bucket and back hoe, it's worth sticking with it a bit longer. Lots of online info on that era of Sims injector pump including vacuum? governor. Mine has a cold start button that helps. Dumps extra fuel in.

New guy here! Thanks!

Damn, I want one!

You guys did great. Fun to watch you work. I was thinking you could have tried putting the outriggers down to lift the rear tires.

As a car dealer said to me: "It was bought new" and "It ran when it was driven to where it is parked" 🤠

Hopefully Lord Muck chimes in, He knows these Fordsons very well. Love your channel, keep it up!

My late brother also had a 1968 Ford 4500 diesel tlb good little outfit

Start from the fuel filters then work along to each injector after you have fuel from the filters to injection pump it will start straight away 🇬🇧🇮🇪

Well you did a few things wrong. I noticed the #3 pump was stuck an hour before you spotted it. Also don't try to start these diesels on idle revs, they need lots of fuel, and the cold start button helps. . . . It's not as if you will foul your sparkplugs with excess fuel. It also looks as if the brakes are stuck, and maybe you have now burnt the clutch out. If you can lift the rear wheels, then maybe that will help release the brakes, otherwise you need to take the brakes apart.

Whenever you get a fire from diesel, gasoline or starting fluid, never blow on fire. Always smother with shirt, towel etc. to have a fire you need fuel and oxygen, blowing makes it worse. Great video. First time watching. Really enjoyed it

I was surprised has old as it is that the boom,stick,backhoe bucket will stay up and the out riggers. In my humble opinion I think with a bit of work it would make a pretty good backhoe , Hoses will be needed I went through this on my old John Deere 300 backhoe. I worked it to enough to pay for it and all the parts. All my best.

Save it. Might come in handy some day.

Yes, the throttle butterfly generates a manifold vacuum, which is piped down to a diaphragm on the back of the injector pump, that moves the rack. I’m still at the start, so I don’t know how far you guys got, but you need to put engine oil in the pump. You take off the side cover, assuming it’s a Simms, and pour engine oil in there until it starts to spill out, then refit the side cover. It’s not lubricated by the fuel, like more modern pumps.

Thanks for the video, great to see the major. I think it's more likely a 1958-60 Fordson power major base unit as normally the brake shafts on a super are a different for a farm tractor, I don't know if they fitted different ones for the industrial in that location, some had brake drums on the axle end right behind the wheels. You'd have to find casting codes and engine/serial number to actually date it. That governor system is vacuum operated, you need the rubber hose connecting the inlet to the air filter for it to work right, and the air filter needs to be clean and filled to the correct level of oil, and make sure the rubber diaphragm under the end where the 2 metal lines go in the end of the injector pumps good as well. No oil in the trans/rear axle won't affect drive, as it doesn't have a shuttle or torque. It may be frozen, the brakes stuck or something failed jamming it if it's been run dry long enough. The gearbox and rear axle oils are totally separate. Gearbox oil is the large plug by steering arm, with high low level written in casting just by the bottom of plug. The rear axle is the dipstick you found and fill plug is on top of rear axle cover so you need to check both. It's not un common for the gearbox upper rear and lower pto seals to fail and let the oil in the rear axle as the gearbox oil level is much higher. the rear PTO output shaft seal also fails letting rear axle oil out if It's still fitted with the backhoe on it. Don't scrap it it's a collectors item to the right guy even if you don't want it, I'd buy it for $1000 if it was close to me in Canada.

Fun video forced started on ether good job guys

Great tractor we have one here in the UK use it for working the log spitter. Perkins engine last for ever,good luck with it.

Press in the little button on the shut off lever.Throttle needs to be fully open for the button to engage. There was also a six cylinder version engine mainly fitted to Thames Trader trucks. I learned to drive in one of them

When you first opened the side inspection cover of the pump the second to the lift injector lift is stuck.

The welders are usually very good, this chap left a lot to be desired.

Great video guys. FYI @16:32 there is incredible drain on the alternator of your truck. If your boosting vehicle has 2 huge batteries and the engine being boosted is small, it is probably OK. However, if the boosting vehicle has a single battery and the engine being boosted is large, the alternator is desperately trying to maintain battery voltage over 13.5V. You will get away with this for a while but eventually it will take out your alternator.

Ford motor company (board) forbid Henry Ford from making Ford tractors so he started a new company Ford and Son or Fordson. He loved tractors and farm equipment.

Push the cold start button on the stop levere to start with. Yes , the little round button, push in towards the engine.

had a fordson power major made in england, had books etc from previous owner, same engine ran and moved eventually i had to buy parts from england. loved the big big rear tires. was better than a massey fergusan. same fuel problem start from pump and work your way up. found some replacement parts also ebayavailable on ebay.

There's a cold start button on the end of the speed control linkage on the Simms fuel pump. If you press that in you'll hear a clunky as the rack goes to max position. I've had the rack seize as you found but the one we had was always a pretty good starter.

That fordson can not be beat it will out last newer ones of today.

Ether!!! Giver her some, it was almost running!

500 buck is not bad. Needs work but hey can't beat that.

I am at 10:30. That is an old diaphragm regulated SIMMS Minivac injection pump. It works with a vacuum difference that is generated at the intake manifold with that flap. So your throttle pedal should go to that intake flap. The lever you are trying work is just a shutoff lever and the button on it is a force-feeding for cold start. Now for the pump to work of course you need make sure that everything like the rack which you can access from the side cover is moving freely. The lines going from the injection pump to the intake flap need to be open, not leaking or broken. The diaphragm as it gets older will start to leak which causes either unresponsive throttle or no throttle at all or it is all over the place. Diaphragm is cheap and very easy to swap and I highly suggest doing it anyway. The lever is likely loose, because it is stuck in off position, it will get harder to turn once the engine runs and touches the "rack". Ok let's see how you solve this :D EDIT: I have now watched the video and a few things. The diaphragm is definitely leaking because your throttle is so unresponsive, or the lines are clogged. The injection pump has it's own oil so you should chance it and hope that you don't need to replace the shaft seal. Lack of power overall can be from low compression and bad injectors. However the engine is running quite smooth and isn't smoking too bad so I think the issue is the pump. Take of the valve cover and see the injectors and valves. The injection pump is really dirty. You can clean it by taking the tophalf off which contains the elements and disassemble + clean it. Flush the lower part and chance oil frequently. Chance the return springs for the element, they will brake if they have rust on them. Clean the elements with really fine scotch brite if they still have rust on them.

I'd Say the QUALITY-TIME You and CHRIS had together is Worth $500 even if was Depressing...LIFE isn't All-About WINNING... Sometimes You have to Lose some Battles and in End...You Learn-Lessons from Both!!! If in End do decide to take to Scrap-Yard I would Save Wheels&Tires and take to Yard that has Capability to Lift-Off with Big-Machine💪👍

You have to take the plug out of the top of the injector pump right there in the middle and pump it until fuel comes out of there. It will not start on ether all you can do is lock it up

water in the transmission can freeze up and lock up the gears

Those engines are super cheap and easy to rebuild (wet liners). We can buy the rebuild kits for around AU$500 out of England, probably cheaper for you guys. That engine looks worn right out to me. They have quite good disc brakes, probably been left with the park brake on and stuck the linings.

Interesting video. As others have said, contact Lord Muck as he's always messing around with Fordsons and is a helpful guy

the 4th injector jumping up and down could be due to broken hold down bolts, also could be the source of the blow by

This thing was quite the clip

Not a critic but I wish he would be sprayed the ether at longer intervals I’ve found spray a solid spray for a few seconds and most old diesels will crank right up great video though

To find out about Fordson watch the Iowa PBS " tractor wars " , it's as entertaining as your video's . And over here in England a Super Major with no front loader or backhoe is around £4000 - £5000 ( $4500 - $5500 ) . So $500 is a giveaway price even iff it needs $500 to $1000 spending on it you'd still have a bargain when done .

That poor thing has probably had more use in its' life time than its' had maintenance. Sadly some people just use things until they're no longer worth fixing.

Going off of the ice in the bucket, no oil in the transmission, and the rust on the stick, you’ve got a transmission full of ice. It’s a wild guess, but it could explain being locked in place!

should put your stabilizers down and lift your wheels off the ground. See if you can make them spin then.

Just started watching this and seen the little gem at the side red one

She likes the Ether Bunny

If the hydraulics work, i guess i would have tried to lower the outriggers or the boom to get the rear wheels off the ground. That could have helped to loosen the breaks or gear train and get the drive clutch to stick if you don't have the tractor weight fighting against you as well. But seriously, this backhoe is more of a side project for "fun". If you actually want something to do work with, it has a bit too many issues that cost a lot of money and time to fix for it to be reliable again.

Chris this is what we do for fun

old inline pumps are notorious for producing too low a injection pressure until the either raises the cranking speed, old farm tractors we would tow start them, huge cranking speed. 🤪

Well, that may be why it was at a junk yard. Good job getting it running though

good job well done 'you should have put new fuel filter on first ;i found out the hard way keep up the good work good buddy

You have to prime the injector pump the bolt right there in the top of the top. Get fuel to come out of there

I didn't read the comments but the rack sounded like it was stuck in the stop position and this was a common issue. also it's about a 1956 model. the round plug one the side of the gearbox is the oil level for the gearbox the dipstick is for the rear end and had oil. all take sae 30 oil

I own one of them. It still runs the decompression. Leaver has to be down for the motor to start. It will not start on the undeapmode. It has to be down that's only to get the motor turning , and you have to prime the injector pump

Did you get it rolling? Definitely looked like the brakes were froze, lord knows Ive had that many times lol

This is like Diesel Creak without the yeehaa!

Try filling that injector pump with 10 weight oil and run it a while it might come around

Did not see you push in the cold start button on the Simms by the shut off lever. Those engines normally start on the button even in winter conditions.

you can literally see one of the lifters not moving and he goes and says they are all moving :D

the injection pump is a pheumatic version with a diaphragm and uses pressure from the inlet manifold with a butterfly valve similar to a carb

Compression lever is up. Our tractors the lever went down much further. Also the injector did hav problems seizing.

for $500 this was no mistake. get a bigger tractor and drag it around until stuff unsticks. Should move on just 3 cylinders until you can get it into the shed for repairs after the brakes and clutch loosen up. .

Yes, should I put at least 5 gallon bucket of hydraulic fluid in that a lot of times it’s low and when they’re low and almost out, you don’t go nowhere you break things

The tractor has a rusted shaft or something in the rear end put in reverse & pop the clutch a few times to shock it loose.Worked on my 9N same problem it had like that one.

its a power major or diesel major as it has drum brakes, the trans brake is on, the bolt head bung in front of the dip stick is gear box level & dip stick is for rear end, the button on the stop lever is for cold start, take the rocker cover off and do the tow 1/2" bolts up so it hold the injector into seat in the cylinder head as its losing compression on that cylinder, it might need the timeing adjusted thats done on the injector pump coupling by undoing two 1/2" bolts and moving it in the elong gated holes

Take out injectors clean and put marvel mystery oil in cylinders to hopefully loosen rings and call area diesel service

Excess fuel button on the pump also needs the throttle lever to be fully open to ensure the button stays in ! Full marks for perseverance. This tractor must be an exception to Lord Mucks rule that engines do not get hooked on ether ?.🤔

Sorry guys to watch your video this late. Few hints for a gearbox, the multiplier (aka high - low ratio) lever is that horizontal lever that comes out on the right side of dashboard. I don't remember any more excatly how it works, but probably low ratio is on when lever is upper position and high ratio when lever is down position. Also I don't remember for sure, if the has middle position, which is free-position.

The Major does not need transmission fluid as such. No torque converter. Just top up normal gear box and rear axle as required. Did need more oil for the hydraulics which is usually from from the rear end . Engine oil used throughout.

Id use the backhoe to lift the rear wheels off the ground and try spinning the wheels by hand. Then by motor. The way the engine idles down or stalls when trying to seems to make mevthink clutch is working

That explains the $500 question

Buy some Harbor freight Line wrenches Guys. Great Video.

And you said at the beginning of this video that there wasn't any transmission fluid in the tractor

Shocking😂

Take the valve cover off and check the injectors and rocker arms adjustment

It’s one of those ran when parked 😂😂😂

If I remember correct you are in high gear! Push down on handle below the dash. It is a high/low handle

Buy them!

Good.job sorry you engine good show 😃👏👏👏👍👍👍

that Fordson Major has to be a early mid 50's because the decompression level we had 62'Fordson 5000 Major diesel it didn't have a decompression but my brothers older Fordson Major it had

You certainly won’t get smoke with decompression on. You get absolutely no heat, without compression.

I think you will be lucky to move it let alone think of digging with it.

A push rod bent, from dumping all that ether down it. The 'loose' injector on number four isn't actually loose, that's just a rubber block where the line goes under the valve cover, the actual injector is bolted into the top of the head under the valve cover. Fixing the push rod isn't that difficult, just loosen up the rocker arms and pull it out, the straighten it with a torch and check it off a flat surface, then stop feeding it that much ether so it doesn't bend again.

Id definitely spend some time and money on it

You squirt either spin on decomp and flick lever

The injectors don't spray right, and too little compression is my guess. Injectors can be cleaned or replaced, and an RVS treatment should fix compression.

Me gusta la van del fondo

Well that Ford kicked BUT !😂😂😂😂

It's worth fixing. Rebuild the fuel pump clean or replace the injectors fresh fuel and oils it will be a good machine again.

Great content! This is a level I sometimes go to,and should leave the machine go. But I don't, I bring it home and save it. Even knowing the machine will never return my money. Keep up the great work! A loyal subscriber.

You should use front bucket curled it back push yourself back break loose the brake if injector pump was sticking like it was it probably sticking some need to be running for a good while injecting pump need to keep freeing up just running it for a little bit injection pump doesn't have enough time to free itself up you need to run it 1hr or 2hr let engine get up the operating temperature and why it is running keep putting oil on injecting plumbers so they keep freeing up also put an automatic transmission fluid in with the diesel fuel will help it runs and help with compression and injection pump

Put some oil in the injector pump. If it does fire up, it’ll shred itself.

In the 60s there were 2 backhoes , JCB and a Fordson with a Witlock backhoe on them,,, JCb worked quicker but the Fordson was slower but had a longer dipper and could dig much deeper ,,