6 ways to fix an arm pump in climbing

No video

6 ways to fix an arm pump in climbing | Doctor explains

Рет қаралды 65,419

Curious Doc

Күн бұрын

Пікірлер: 59

@CuriousDoc 3 жыл бұрын

Big thanks to Spencer West, a physical therapy student from Virginia US, for the help with this script and the one for the next video. The next one is about the biomechanics of deadpointing, make sure you're subscribed to watch it when it comes out this Thursday!

@brodaism 2 жыл бұрын

First part of the video was interesting from tennis point of view too. I saw that you posted a video on tennis recently. One of the biggest enemies for recreational players is that they hold the racket too tight. I have tried leave out little finger and ring finger ( holding the racket by using only 3 other fingers ) that helps in reducing the grip pressure so your wrist is loose. Would interesting if you can make a video on this. Thanks!

@AlecARGH 2 жыл бұрын

Wow! I am digging these climbing related videos. You actually have done your research about how climbing works which is a rarity in when non-climbing media discusses climbing. Thanks! It makes your advice helpful.

@danf8986 2 жыл бұрын

What an amazing video series. As a newer climber, I cannot stress technique enough. My arms used to get pumped all the time in the beginning; it was rather annoying because my climbing sessions became shorter and shorter. After Becoming more intentional with technique, I now feel much less exhausting during and after a session.

@ZachlyS 3 жыл бұрын

This channel is golden. Thumnails, video lenght, the way you explain things, production quality, everything is on point. Thank you very many.

@emanueler 2 жыл бұрын

totally agree!

@jamessmith1845 3 жыл бұрын

This is incredibly high quality content. Blessed to have found this before it blows up.

@connormiyamoto4143 3 жыл бұрын

Amazing! Please do a video on Golfer's (Climber's) Elbow!

@JosephDiazClimbs 3 жыл бұрын

Awesome video! loved hearing more about the mechanics. I'm going to incorporate the in-between massage in my next session. Looking forward to the deadpoint video!

@johndoh1000 3 жыл бұрын

I am loving these videos! I love hearing about the mechanisms behind the sensations we feel while we climb!

@weirdapebeard4975 2 ай бұрын

Thank you

@ilyaSyntax 3 жыл бұрын

The Cliffs LIC at 2:43! So helpful to know that once you're pumped it's already too late and will take long to get back the strength. Need to take longer breaks earlier on

@stunwin 2 жыл бұрын

RIP John Brown Smokehouse

@bullionsean456 2 жыл бұрын

That's kinda weird bc one thing I've always noticed is that when I get my first pump of a climbing session and then rest for 15ish minutes I don't get pumped nearly as easily afterward and that's when all my best climbing is done.

@chaosengine4597 2 жыл бұрын

It's called "pre-pump" and is even a thing in some professionals' training plans. Don't ask me why, but it's a thing. I think Adam Ondra has mentioned it in one of his videos.

@gezzapk Жыл бұрын

It's called warming up lol

@bullionsean456 Жыл бұрын

@@gezzapk lol yeah

@emanueler 2 жыл бұрын

Awesome, thank you for making this videos.

@jpswaddle7899 2 жыл бұрын

5 secrets to climbing above V10, Eat right. Sleep right. Train right. Be consistent. Short cuts don't exist.

@climberdna4405 3 жыл бұрын

What can we do to get oxygen back into the muscles quicker, or store more in them in the first place? As some climbers seem to be able to get back quicker while shaking out and resting on some jugs...

@TesterAnimal1 3 жыл бұрын

Train.

@SBW23901 3 жыл бұрын

As unintuitive as it may seem, opening and closing your hand a few times while it’s hanging down can help you recover faster from a pump. Your veins rely a lot on your muscles to push blood back up to the heart. When you flex a muscle, the veins near and within it are squeezed, which returns blood back toward the heart and away from the extremity. So letting your arm hang but incorporating some hand opening and closing to your rest can help get everything moving and transported away from your tired arms.

@CuriousDoc 3 жыл бұрын

Definitely, muscle composition changes the more you train e.g. more mitochondria producing more energy!

@C0IdJ 2 жыл бұрын

Nitrates for weight lifting

@awirabelista 2 жыл бұрын

Best explaination video ever. Thank you

@Luca-oy9cm 3 жыл бұрын

Great video man, thanks

@spa.3239 Жыл бұрын

This is the clearest explanation of arm pump I've ever come across and it makes so much sense. It was difficult searching google for an explanation. May I ask for your source esp for the mechanism of arm pump, for further reading? Thanks!

@pedroyukio7248 3 жыл бұрын

Great video! More climbing please!

@fluttersheesh8884 2 жыл бұрын

I love your channel. Keep going

@GumbyGoons Жыл бұрын

I just started climbing and I've noticed I'm wearing out my forearms way to fast so Hopefully this video will help.

@MSHNKTRL Жыл бұрын

I would have liked to know more about the massage techniques

@juliadegroot 3 жыл бұрын

nice vein animations!

@juliadegroot 3 жыл бұрын

and nice fade! 💇‍♂️

@tonybruce24 2 жыл бұрын

You took visuals from crash course anatomy and physiology #27. You should give credit when taking other peoples visuals 0:47

@farahhaque2288 3 жыл бұрын

Awesome! 👏👏

@poisonjam4564 2 жыл бұрын

I really hope you can collaborate with Magnus Mitdbo, Adam Ondra or the likes! Great content!

@vlaaady Жыл бұрын

I guess a skill of resting on bad holds is crucial here. When you look at Jania Gambret she might be winning since she mastered this skill.

@naadirahmoola110 3 жыл бұрын

Why is that as a more experienced climber, it takes longer to "get pumped"?

@CuriousDoc 3 жыл бұрын

I believe it boils down to better technique and less overgripping!

@TesterAnimal1 3 жыл бұрын

@@CuriousDoc also stronger muscles, more mitochondria, more oxidative enzymes, better capilarization. Basically, TRAIN.

@CuriousDoc 3 жыл бұрын

@@TesterAnimal1 good point thanks

@SBW23901 3 жыл бұрын

Your muscles also adapt to the type of activity you’re training for. You develop an appropriate mix of slow and fast twitch muscle fibers to maximize energy expenditure. Experienced climbers may take longer to get pumped because their forearm muscles have adapted to have more slow twitch fibers (these are also called “Type I” or “Slow Oxidative” fibers). These are great for endurance because they fatigue slower. That being said, you still need a healthy mix of fast twitch fibers to make powerful moves. Overall, this adaptation comes with time and consistent training.

@nigeldude 2 жыл бұрын

Awesome video. "Lactic Acid" does indeed get a bad rap. Lactate is actually the good guy! Lactate acts as a buffer by removing excess hydrogen ions out of the bloodstream. Those hydrogen ions are what cause that burning sensation you feel during exercise due to throwing off the body's ph. The excess hydrogen ions are what make things acidic, not lactate. Lactate's job is to neutralize the acidosis and bring things back to baseline. So next time you hear "gym bro" complaining about Lactic Acid, inform him that's a myth and he's blaming the wrong guy! (Not his fault, unfortunately most of us were misinformed about Lactic Acid growing up). In summary: burning sensation = excess hydrogen ions. Delayed onset muscle soreness = muscle micro tears. Sincerely, Lactate

@smockytubers1188 2 жыл бұрын

What? Where did you hear any of this? Lactic acid is not a myth and the excess production of it via anaerobic respiration drives local pH downwards because it sits in equilibrium with both lactate and hydrogen ions.

@nigeldude 2 жыл бұрын

@@smockytubers1188I'm in the field. I've studied it, wrote papers on it, and try to educate others on this when the opportunity presents itself. Lactate isn't an acid. So the term "Lactic Acid" is actually inaccurate. Lactate is present WITH h+ (when the conditions are appropriate) giving the false impression that the two are conjoined (Lactic Acid). This school of thought is outdated. Modern exercise science knows this is not the case. Lactate helps neutralize the imbalance, lactate is not causing the imbalance. Using the term Lactic Acid instead of Lactate is basically discrediting the awesome job that lactate does for us. I'll share a helpful video to expand on this below.

@nigeldude 2 жыл бұрын

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ebmmmrJzs7reeGg.html

@smockytubers1188 2 жыл бұрын

@@nigeldude People (not just gym bros) say "lactate" when they refer to the whole lactic acid/lactate equilibrium because it's the easier thing to measure and get a clear answer about what's happening during exercise. When we did VO2 max tests we did finger pricks and analysis for lactate also (because why not, we were already halfway there experiment wise) to also analyze anaerobic capacity. Are you saying specifically you just dislike this terminology because lactate is technically not a contributor to acidity? I guess I can understand that.

@nigeldude 2 жыл бұрын

@@smockytubers1188 unfortunately a large percentage of people still think their post-workout soreness is caused by "Lactic Acid". We know DOMs is actually caused by micro-tears in the muscle, not LA. We also know excess lactate is cleared within minutes after a workout (once again proving lactate has nothing to do with soreness). The false teachings about doms causes and in-workout fatigue is what I'm trying to correct. Yes, the terminology is a problem, but it's more so the out dated science being spread that is the problem. That's all! I appreciate you diving in to this by the way, most could care less!

@ivan5328 4 ай бұрын

Nuh huh, anaerobic respiration doesn't produce any significant amount of lactic acid, lactate is actually always the byproduct and it's actually a good thing since it can be used to produce energy too ☝️🤓

@bobbyfrai6745 2 жыл бұрын

To stretch passively a muscle for a warm up is a bad thing... This is not a good example at 2:50

@brittanybutterworth1068 3 жыл бұрын

Thank you so much for this video! I’m going to be diligent about stretching before a gym session now! 💪😁💪 Can getting pumped too often result in permanent damage to the veins?

@die_hertz 3 жыл бұрын

Static stretches before physical activity been shown to inhibit MVC and possibly increase injury risk

@SBW23901 3 жыл бұрын

@brittany butterworth the odds of you being able to hold onto a wall long enough to cause damage when you’re feeling pumped would be really tough. Your body is great at making you stop doing things that will hurt it. You would probably have to have a lot of other issues going on for forearm pumps to be bad for you in the long-term.