Big thanks to Spencer West, a physical therapy student from Virginia US, for the help with this script and the one for the next video. The next one is about the biomechanics of deadpointing, make sure you're subscribed to watch it when it comes out this Thursday!
@brodaism2 жыл бұрын
First part of the video was interesting from tennis point of view too. I saw that you posted a video on tennis recently. One of the biggest enemies for recreational players is that they hold the racket too tight. I have tried leave out little finger and ring finger ( holding the racket by using only 3 other fingers ) that helps in reducing the grip pressure so your wrist is loose. Would interesting if you can make a video on this. Thanks!
@AlecARGH2 жыл бұрын
Wow! I am digging these climbing related videos. You actually have done your research about how climbing works which is a rarity in when non-climbing media discusses climbing. Thanks! It makes your advice helpful.
@danf89862 жыл бұрын
What an amazing video series. As a newer climber, I cannot stress technique enough. My arms used to get pumped all the time in the beginning; it was rather annoying because my climbing sessions became shorter and shorter. After Becoming more intentional with technique, I now feel much less exhausting during and after a session.
@ZachlyS3 жыл бұрын
This channel is golden. Thumnails, video lenght, the way you explain things, production quality, everything is on point. Thank you very many.
@emanueler2 жыл бұрын
totally agree!
@jamessmith18453 жыл бұрын
This is incredibly high quality content. Blessed to have found this before it blows up.
@connormiyamoto41433 жыл бұрын
Amazing! Please do a video on Golfer's (Climber's) Elbow!
@JosephDiazClimbs3 жыл бұрын
Awesome video! loved hearing more about the mechanics. I'm going to incorporate the in-between massage in my next session. Looking forward to the deadpoint video!
@johndoh10003 жыл бұрын
I am loving these videos! I love hearing about the mechanisms behind the sensations we feel while we climb!
@weirdapebeard49752 ай бұрын
Thank you
@ilyaSyntax3 жыл бұрын
The Cliffs LIC at 2:43! So helpful to know that once you're pumped it's already too late and will take long to get back the strength. Need to take longer breaks earlier on
@stunwin2 жыл бұрын
RIP John Brown Smokehouse
@bullionsean4562 жыл бұрын
That's kinda weird bc one thing I've always noticed is that when I get my first pump of a climbing session and then rest for 15ish minutes I don't get pumped nearly as easily afterward and that's when all my best climbing is done.
@chaosengine45972 жыл бұрын
It's called "pre-pump" and is even a thing in some professionals' training plans. Don't ask me why, but it's a thing. I think Adam Ondra has mentioned it in one of his videos.
@gezzapk Жыл бұрын
It's called warming up lol
@bullionsean456 Жыл бұрын
@@gezzapk lol yeah
@emanueler2 жыл бұрын
Awesome, thank you for making this videos.
@jpswaddle78992 жыл бұрын
5 secrets to climbing above V10, Eat right. Sleep right. Train right. Be consistent. Short cuts don't exist.
@climberdna44053 жыл бұрын
What can we do to get oxygen back into the muscles quicker, or store more in them in the first place? As some climbers seem to be able to get back quicker while shaking out and resting on some jugs...
@TesterAnimal13 жыл бұрын
Train.
@SBW239013 жыл бұрын
As unintuitive as it may seem, opening and closing your hand a few times while it’s hanging down can help you recover faster from a pump. Your veins rely a lot on your muscles to push blood back up to the heart. When you flex a muscle, the veins near and within it are squeezed, which returns blood back toward the heart and away from the extremity. So letting your arm hang but incorporating some hand opening and closing to your rest can help get everything moving and transported away from your tired arms.
@CuriousDoc3 жыл бұрын
Definitely, muscle composition changes the more you train e.g. more mitochondria producing more energy!
@C0IdJ2 жыл бұрын
Nitrates for weight lifting
@awirabelista2 жыл бұрын
Best explaination video ever. Thank you
@Luca-oy9cm3 жыл бұрын
Great video man, thanks
@spa.3239 Жыл бұрын
This is the clearest explanation of arm pump I've ever come across and it makes so much sense. It was difficult searching google for an explanation. May I ask for your source esp for the mechanism of arm pump, for further reading? Thanks!
@pedroyukio72483 жыл бұрын
Great video! More climbing please!
@fluttersheesh88842 жыл бұрын
I love your channel. Keep going
@GumbyGoons Жыл бұрын
I just started climbing and I've noticed I'm wearing out my forearms way to fast so Hopefully this video will help.
@MSHNKTRL Жыл бұрын
I would have liked to know more about the massage techniques
@juliadegroot3 жыл бұрын
nice vein animations!
@juliadegroot3 жыл бұрын
and nice fade! 💇♂️
@tonybruce242 жыл бұрын
You took visuals from crash course anatomy and physiology #27. You should give credit when taking other peoples visuals 0:47
@farahhaque22883 жыл бұрын
Awesome! 👏👏
@poisonjam45642 жыл бұрын
I really hope you can collaborate with Magnus Mitdbo, Adam Ondra or the likes! Great content!
@vlaaady Жыл бұрын
I guess a skill of resting on bad holds is crucial here. When you look at Jania Gambret she might be winning since she mastered this skill.
@naadirahmoola1103 жыл бұрын
Why is that as a more experienced climber, it takes longer to "get pumped"?
@CuriousDoc3 жыл бұрын
I believe it boils down to better technique and less overgripping!
@TesterAnimal13 жыл бұрын
@@CuriousDoc also stronger muscles, more mitochondria, more oxidative enzymes, better capilarization. Basically, TRAIN.
@CuriousDoc3 жыл бұрын
@@TesterAnimal1 good point thanks
@SBW239013 жыл бұрын
Your muscles also adapt to the type of activity you’re training for. You develop an appropriate mix of slow and fast twitch muscle fibers to maximize energy expenditure. Experienced climbers may take longer to get pumped because their forearm muscles have adapted to have more slow twitch fibers (these are also called “Type I” or “Slow Oxidative” fibers). These are great for endurance because they fatigue slower. That being said, you still need a healthy mix of fast twitch fibers to make powerful moves. Overall, this adaptation comes with time and consistent training.
@nigeldude2 жыл бұрын
Awesome video. "Lactic Acid" does indeed get a bad rap. Lactate is actually the good guy! Lactate acts as a buffer by removing excess hydrogen ions out of the bloodstream. Those hydrogen ions are what cause that burning sensation you feel during exercise due to throwing off the body's ph. The excess hydrogen ions are what make things acidic, not lactate. Lactate's job is to neutralize the acidosis and bring things back to baseline. So next time you hear "gym bro" complaining about Lactic Acid, inform him that's a myth and he's blaming the wrong guy! (Not his fault, unfortunately most of us were misinformed about Lactic Acid growing up). In summary: burning sensation = excess hydrogen ions. Delayed onset muscle soreness = muscle micro tears. Sincerely, Lactate
@smockytubers11882 жыл бұрын
What? Where did you hear any of this? Lactic acid is not a myth and the excess production of it via anaerobic respiration drives local pH downwards because it sits in equilibrium with both lactate and hydrogen ions.
@nigeldude2 жыл бұрын
@@smockytubers1188I'm in the field. I've studied it, wrote papers on it, and try to educate others on this when the opportunity presents itself. Lactate isn't an acid. So the term "Lactic Acid" is actually inaccurate. Lactate is present WITH h+ (when the conditions are appropriate) giving the false impression that the two are conjoined (Lactic Acid). This school of thought is outdated. Modern exercise science knows this is not the case. Lactate helps neutralize the imbalance, lactate is not causing the imbalance. Using the term Lactic Acid instead of Lactate is basically discrediting the awesome job that lactate does for us. I'll share a helpful video to expand on this below.
@nigeldude2 жыл бұрын
kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ebmmmrJzs7reeGg.html
@smockytubers11882 жыл бұрын
@@nigeldude People (not just gym bros) say "lactate" when they refer to the whole lactic acid/lactate equilibrium because it's the easier thing to measure and get a clear answer about what's happening during exercise. When we did VO2 max tests we did finger pricks and analysis for lactate also (because why not, we were already halfway there experiment wise) to also analyze anaerobic capacity. Are you saying specifically you just dislike this terminology because lactate is technically not a contributor to acidity? I guess I can understand that.
@nigeldude2 жыл бұрын
@@smockytubers1188 unfortunately a large percentage of people still think their post-workout soreness is caused by "Lactic Acid". We know DOMs is actually caused by micro-tears in the muscle, not LA. We also know excess lactate is cleared within minutes after a workout (once again proving lactate has nothing to do with soreness). The false teachings about doms causes and in-workout fatigue is what I'm trying to correct. Yes, the terminology is a problem, but it's more so the out dated science being spread that is the problem. That's all! I appreciate you diving in to this by the way, most could care less!
@ivan53284 ай бұрын
Nuh huh, anaerobic respiration doesn't produce any significant amount of lactic acid, lactate is actually always the byproduct and it's actually a good thing since it can be used to produce energy too ☝️🤓
@bobbyfrai67452 жыл бұрын
To stretch passively a muscle for a warm up is a bad thing... This is not a good example at 2:50
@brittanybutterworth10683 жыл бұрын
Thank you so much for this video! I’m going to be diligent about stretching before a gym session now! 💪😁💪 Can getting pumped too often result in permanent damage to the veins?
@die_hertz3 жыл бұрын
Static stretches before physical activity been shown to inhibit MVC and possibly increase injury risk
@SBW239013 жыл бұрын
@brittany butterworth the odds of you being able to hold onto a wall long enough to cause damage when you’re feeling pumped would be really tough. Your body is great at making you stop doing things that will hurt it. You would probably have to have a lot of other issues going on for forearm pumps to be bad for you in the long-term.
@anuragandanujclimbing72193 жыл бұрын
Whats elevation in RICE?
@williampkerr3 жыл бұрын
I'd say at or above head level.
@yanisdeschamps10262 жыл бұрын
really interesting I wonder how mutch it is close to monkey anatomy when they climb
@feralberti23 жыл бұрын
rice between climbs ? yeah you can also find an oxygen chamber and go sit in it. good advice !