Happy days, guys. We're told the Wright $4k one can be found under Proto USA for a mere $2,900 amzn.to/4bS2vwu Can't afford NOT to buy it :P If this comment gets a single like from anyone we'll buy more torque multipliers, these were stupid fun

Now we gotta allow the good idea fairy to provide a visit, and drive a torque multiplier with a torque multiplier

Finally found what Jiffy Lube uses to tighten drain plugs .

"Anyways, here's us using an impact wrench."😂😂😂

I can't believe the first one you opened even works. Sand cast gears... amazing.

If you stack all of these together you might be able to remove a Honda crank bolt.

So that chain is an incredibly dangerous spring, and if you guys do this again, please, use a solid, noncompressable stop for holding the reaction arm. As a Millwright in a steel mill, when torque like this goes wrong with sprung restraints, people can die. I have seen stuff go straight through cinderblock walls. Be safe.

What would happen if you connected the output of one multiplier to the input to the next? Chain all the multipliers and you'll be able to twist spacetime.

A couple of us broke 2 $13k torque multipliers one night trying to remove die bed bolts. They wouldn't let us cut the bolts, cuz they were special order, until they saw the 2 broken multipliers. lol

The $4k Wright multiplier is really handy to use with a pneumatic nutrunner. Ours is a 25:1 ratio, and with an Ingersoll Rand 9RSQ83 nutrunner, it's 300 rpm & 82 inch-pounds input, 12 rpm & 170 ft-lbs out. Moves stuff quickly.

We use generally hydraulic or electric versions of these in structural steel to do final torque, after snugging large or particularly important bolts we will go either 1/3rd or 1/2 a turn (depending on bolt length) to reach final torque, this is what we do on roadway gantries, large road signs, refineries, tunnels, mining equipment, etc. I worked at an ethylene-oxide plant one time using a hydraulic torque multiplier to break loose the bolts holding the catalytic chamber together. Huge bolts, about 70 or 90 or so of them and they had to be cracked loose 8 at a time - so hydraulics running to 8 reaction arms. It was a major job, took days for a dozen guys just to do that.

at 1:04 When talking about price and said "and our own Snap-On situated right in the middle" I perked up.

I work in a hydraulic cylinder manufacturing plant, we use electric motor driven torque multipliers for the piston nuts, crazy how tight they can get accurately

You have to Bart Simpson Megaphone these things.....one into another.

I have the 60$ version, works great on semi lug nuts in the farm when needed out in the field away from air compressor, small package but works great!

We used one to test slip torque on drivetrain flanges for muscle cars. We often go well above 2000 lb-ft. We can then take the torque required to slip the joint and the tension created by bolts holding the flanges together to calculate to coefficient of friction of the flanges.

And here is us using an impact....😂

16:45 - Pure tofu dregs quality right there!! WOW!

She torqued my wrench till I multiplied

I definitely want to see more of the pepper grinders since they're so cheap. Maybe there's a low-cost good-quality version out there?

As a semi truck driver i can say these things are priceless. Recently i swap to 3/4 makita impact but i still carry one of these in the cab. Nothing is more frustrating than fighting to loosen the nuts of the wheel on the side of the highway. Love this channel

Love Grandpa's 1/2" Craftsman breaker bar! I bought one about 45-50 yrs ago,still haven't a use it all the time! Love the old Craftsman USA stuff!

We have a Proto J6252 torque multiplier at work that says it goes up to 8,000 ft-lbs, lets just say we have shattered 2" B7 grade studs with it when they just didn't want to come free. It has 1 1/2" input and output drive squares.

The real question what happens when you put a multiplier on a multiplier.

I love watching the ones they use to remove bolts on D11s, track plates, roller bolts, etc. Hydraulic things with MASSIVE torque.

"I'd recommend burning that thing to the ground" I'm going to say that to my boss next time a piece of equipment breaks

What a beautiful Armstrong torque wrench.. just added a nos digital 1/2" to my Armstrong collection

Regarding the square drive issues, just get a high grade large bolt and nut, thread them together then lay some weld so they're now one big long hex, put a 1 inch drive socket on the input, put the giant hex in the socket, put a socket on the hex sticking out, and put a tool on the socket. I made an adapter to let me use the 1/2" end of an extension on an impact gun to zoot Caravan/T&C spare tires up and down inside the car instead of using the included tools very slowly.

I've got a 3/4" drive SnapOn X4 (1000 ftIbs) that I purchased second hand for £150 of my old foreman when he retired. Definitely one of my favourite tools and it's amazing how much you use them once you've got one. Main thing is being able to torque to 500ftib plus without having to lug a 6ft long torque wrench around.

I love the ratcheting one, you can torque up the bolt real high and walk away. It will let you know when it breaks loose. You can also apply a little heat or vibration while it's torqued.

I wish I knew where to find one… But I know what you need. Years ago I was working on a tractor with my dad, and we were unable to get the rear wheel off because our household air compressor wasn’t up to the task of keeping the impact going Long enough to break those big giant Lugnuts loose. My dad worked at a factory and he knew the shop foreman. He was able to borrow this wrench from the machine shop, that was basically like a 6 foot long ratchet with a 1 inch drive socket, and in the box it also had a 4 to1 multiplier box, that you could put on it to amplify the torque. It was a beast. The funniest thing was even with all that one of the Lugnuts was so stuck. We put a 6 foot cheater bar on the handle of that giant ratchet, trying to get it off. So just imagine someone hopping up and down on a 12 foot lever with a 4:1 gearbox… I really thought we were going to snap the stud off, but it finally broke loose with some help from the torch heating it.

I recently purchased a multiplier from princess auto in Canada. Some items from princess auto are less than great (garbage), but I was willing to risk the money. It's a 4:1 ratio and was on sale for 50% off. So, a $400 item for $200. Now what surprised me was a handwritten calibration certificate that came with it. The multiplier was rated at 1100ft pounds, but the certificate of test was up to almost 1400 ft pounds. I highly doubt that I'll need to torque anything that high, but it was more for removing larger or stuck bolts/nuts. it looks very similar to the Neiko and are similar in specs, however, mine did not have a case for it, but it did come with a calibration certificate. Excellent test video.

Needed to drive some 3/4"x12" Titen concrete screws that our impact couldn't handle and ended up getting one of the cheapo "peppermill" units. Worked like a champ and ran those screws in with a 1/2" drill powering it.

More pepper grinder videos please! I didn't even know those were a thing. Thanks for being awesome!

I use one of these things for one job. Torquing the crab nuts to 1800 ft lbs on an EMD. My boss is too cheap to get us a hydraulic torque wrench so we use a 600 ft lb torque wrench and a multiplier.

Efficiency loss with old grease is a real thing. I have an old MAC 4:1 with 1" drive output that I can barely turn. I have no imeadiete use for it, but it needs to be cleaned out of the old dried and sticky grease for sure.

The same company that made one of the torque multiplier, made my air con unit (homcom) have had it for 3 yrs working non stop as a dehumidifier and all summer time as an ac unit and hasn't missed a beat yet

It seems like you could make a really high quality one of these for pretty cheap. The only reason they’re so expensive is because they’re sold as “specialty tools” to industrial shops and so they justify insane prices.

I have been waiting for this for so longgggg!!!!!

Awesome! We have the larger version of the neiko for breaking apart hydraulic cylinders mostly and we've really abused it. Absolutely fantastic tool for 250 bucks. I would love to have that 4k one though. What a world of difference that would make.

I have one of the pepper grinder ones, and it takes over tourqed rusted semi lugs off, run by a makita XPH14, or XPH07, using a 12 sided socket (1-1/8" I think) to turn the input. It's a beast! Not pretty, and with all the sockets and just stacked up, it's heavy... but man it beats jumping on a 4ft cheater pipe handle....

Sand cast gears better than sintered tbh. You'd be amazed at the number of high strength parts that are cast in 4140/40/60, 4340, 8620/40/50, 52100, 1080, etc etc

Im glad you cleaned and repacked the one. Thats something i do with all my ratchets no matter the brand. Even from new. Its amazing what a difference it makes in having them cleaned and greased inside.

glad you guys finally busted out the torque multipliers! very insightful! I didn't realize they didnt work with impacts, though. That's too bad haha

I think it’s nice that you have a Skidmore but for these experiments maybe you could buy a 10 foot I-beam and just use the definition of torque: weld a large nut onto one end of your I-beam weld a hook onto the other end, figure out the weight of the I-beam, and then add some more weights to the far end…

So i am a maintenance tech at an aluminum extrusion factory and we use a B-Rad 5,000 for almost everything that asks for over 1,000 lbs. love the channel btw!

This makes sense, nieko is occasional use, snap on is general purpose semi truck , agricultural one. Wright is for heavy industrial equipment like d11 cats or structural needs.

I just realized watching this how much you have increased the collective understanding of torque and tools. Wild!

I've always used a Ten Foot Length of 2" Iron Pipe as a Torque Multiplier

Thank you so much, Love your channel!

a place i worked at had these older signode and gardner denver 3/4" right angle nut driver air tools hooked up to some 3/4" torque multipliers that operators used to lock up the head nuts used to adjust the fine adjust space available on 120t high speed blanking presses. they were very able to bend the shaft the adjusting worm gear was attached to.

Hytorc has a 1 1/2 drive hydraulic torque I use at work ever once in a awhile to adjust 3 - 4 inch bolts that adjust the height of hydraulic press knives. Our toque spec for those bolts is 10,000 ft lbs. We use the same tool to loosen those bolts with added heat

I work on US Army CH-47. We use something like that Gador torque multiplier to torque the "Jesus" nut that holds the fwd and aft rotor head to the fwd and aft transmissions. I think we torque the nuts to something like 5,000 ft-lbs. It's always a little sketchy. This is an awesome video. Love your content.

I have the Snap-on one and it has served me well. Got it used of a guy who used to work on gaint factory air compressors

Great video! Loved it! Could you do one where you measure the accuracy when used with a torque wrench? Eg for tightening something to a specific, very high torque value

At the nuke plant we had Hi-torque's Battery operated and digital selectable. Big $$$$.

The biggest torque multiplier I ever have seen was at my first job, a overhaul shop for jet engines. The torque multiplier used for removing and installing the fan blade hub retaining nut on the P&W JT9D engines was installed by overhead winch, it must have weighed at least 150kg. I have no idea of the maximum torque produced though…

I have plenty of 4 point sockets, I use them for pipe plugs. Some of the really old ones from the 1800s are completely non standard so I have many sizes including custom CNC machined ones.

I used one of the pepper grinders on a modified manual tire changer. Works like a charm.

We use Sweeney high capacity aerospace torque multipliers at work. I can't find how much they cost but I'm guessing its not cheap. As far as I know the biggest goes up to 30,000 ft-lbs.

I've had the homcom for years now ($49 in Dec 2015 according to Amazon). It gets used very rarely, maybe once or twice a year, but it's worth way more than the $49 when I do need it.

"...not being very bright decisions..." this is gonna be an excellent video. and thank you, this quote made my day.

this is awesome, we actually used the last torque multiplier to torque EMD engine bolts some up to 2400ftlbs

Thanks for taking the time and risks to test these. I'm actually surprised that the cheap ones didn't disintegrate.

The pepper grinder ones are like a old crank handle for a old tractors and old cars 😊😊😊😊

Thank You! Very informative

So , you're onto the "burn that thing to the ground" method too (if it's 5000lbs worth of stuck) , also , that's Uncle Bernie's 1/2 Craftsman breaker , thanks for all your work !

I had no idea this tool exists. Man, that wright tools model is the sauce

Another great episode!! Thanks!!

We have two different ones like you show at my work. One of the black ones with the "foot" we have on an electric gun specifically designed for torqueing wheel studs on trucks. You set a value on the gun and go. The other one is like the most expensive one you showed. Tough to use as heavy as it is and moves so slow you can barely tell, but it does the job. Kind of scary really.

First I want to say your script is awesome. Second, the heavy trades did use torque tools for 1000s of ft pound specs.

I work at Caterpillar, we use thr 18 to 1 all the time for D12 undercarriage, or removing big excavator counterweight. They are awsome!!

Thanks for your work!

Can I ask you where to purchase the Blue Graph background desk protector? I like the color and style of it. I can't seem to find it on Amazon. Informative video as always, I always look forward to seeing your videos on Friday!

I have one of those el cheapo or what you call peppergrinder style ones. It might be 10 years old, used and abused, wobbly as anything but it still works fine. I find a 27mm 12 point socket fits it just fine, milwaukee m18 drill in low gear driving it and it'll shift pretty much any wheelbolt I throw it at. Pop all the bolts and the 1/2 inch m18 impact does the rest.

I bought the Neiko for torquing backhoe cylinder piston bolts. Nice to know it's a bit off in ratios.

"you can park a bus between marketing and reality" got me laughing. I was falling asleep while watching till I heard that.

Lookup (Superbolt). We used these (Supernut version) on 4 inch studs. Hand screw the two piece nut on, then stretch the nut height with included high tensile 5/8 size fastners.

I’ve played with a customers cordless multiple wrench they use on windmills. So crazy what they can do.

Snap-On is the one I would go for. Years ago a shop I worked in had a different type of Snap-On. It was like 4 ratchets stacked on each other. Largest ratchet closest to the work moving to smaller ones away. Shop owned as I am sure the cost was in the stratosphere.

I hate wanting a tool so badly that I know Ill never need. Damn, it'd look good sitting on the shelf... under its own light with at least 3" of wasted space on both sides... in case I ever did need it tho. This one is going on the xmas wish list that I give to the wife, cause you never know.

Cool Video. I was under the impression that they were accurate, wow, I learned something new today. Does anyone have an accurate torque input to output torque multiplier?? Thanks for all your testing.

Gonna need you guys to test the SnapOn cordless tq multiplayer and their 5k ftlbs pepper grinder.

Get your hands on one of the big internal spline drive Sweeney multipliers. 8200s. They're super cool.

Watching you break that loose with one hand was more than a sight to see, I know mathematically speaking it was always gonna turn out like that, but Watching it was like magic, imagine never needing to torch a bolt, you could lift almost an entire truck with the strength it puts out

I've used a Neiko similar to that one to break free a rusted rear pinion nut off of a Chevy 2500 that the owner had brought in because they forgot to refill diff fluid before driving 80mi on the highway, the pinion nut was almost welded on since the bearing had welded itself together. I felt like an absolute god when I broke it free.

You gotta try manual impact wrenches, particularly the Swench, it seems to be quite good

I own the same exact one as that $60 you showed, I got it on sale a little less, I've used it to remove 22.5" wheels off commercial trucks and buses, it gives you a work out but I prefer it to a breaker bar. Thank you for these, I love your tests. I left mine outside in the box, it wound up FULL of water and you know those gears rusted like crazy but I've used it a couple of times since then but its been a couple of months now I wonder if it is rusted stuck lol.

Ive been waiting for this video

have used torque multipliers loads and have atop quality nurbar one. use it to service wind turbines but the funniest was a 2CV rear wheel drum where I had the front of the car airborne trying to ge to the 460nM torque spec!

Any chance of testing the swenchs? Ive always been intriguied at the idea of having one

I have the neiko. I'm glad you tested the smaller model as it's the exact model I have and also with 1/2 to 3/4 it's the logical choice for smaller shops. I also own the exact extending ratchet which fits inside the case. A point of interest: I suspect the 3:1 ratio may work itself in as the gears wear into each other but I've measured smaller numbers and they were spot on eg 50 ft·lb in with click torque got me 150 ft·lb out on my digital torque adapter. I was using the weight of a truck and the earth as my reaction arm hold. I almost always set my reaction arm exactly horizonal on a jack stand and put my weight exactly opposite 180° also pushing exactly down. I would be very interested what you measured on your regular test bench using jack stand and body weight. The reaction arm pushes up 2x what you do so they add 1+ 2= 3 (theoretical). You could prob do a little trig to get those to balance the forces on the gear so you don't pull your test rig out of the floor.

Never seen them in use before. Good to know how they work IRL

Could you make a video testing a swench in the future? I would love to see some in different sizes tested on the dyno.

I've got the same one as that last one, but a different brand (either Enerpak or Proto, I can't remember, but they're all the same). If you do some diligent shopping, you can find used ones (relatively) pretty cheaply. I snagged mine for less than $400.

One day i'd love to see a Steam vs Compressed-Air test 🙏

Would love to see you trying Plarad next time, if only because their factory is next door from where I live.

We have a red "pepper grinder", at the shop and even though it doesn't work on every "stuck" lug nut, it gets the job done when it fits! I forgot what brand it is but, I'm rather positive that it's on the cheap side.

6 years ago I got a snap on x4 on ebay for 150 to do a diff on my truck. I thought I would only use it once but it really comes in handy for BMW crank bolts.

I regularly use a 5:1 to torque European truck hub nuts to 1500nm. Even to 1000nm, easier than using the actual torque wrench by a lot.