I'm very grateful to Rex Krueger for sending me over to this channel, I haven't learned this much in a few years! Shooting boards make more sense now (after watching this and the episode on shooting boards)!

Quite a neat idea for chiseling miters. I would probably modify my miter chiselling jig to be more like that...

Thank you for adding the Tips & Tricks, like adding support blocks under the cut.

Truly a man that has forgotten more about woodworking than we will ever learn. Always a joy to watch your videos and by coincidence my copy of "Traditional Jigs & Fixtures for Handtools" arrived scarcely a week ago!

I've never thought about using what I took for only a center finder on the combination square to measure miters! Hah, always more to learn! Thank you Graham!

Something I realized when I was first cutting miters: if you just have a basic shooting board with a perpendicular support, you can take the rule off your combination plane and rest it on the support to shoot your 45

Your book is going to a great addition to our libraries..... OORAH!!

Appreciate your wealth of knowledge. Keeps the craft (or awareness at least) alive.

In High School the shop also had a big miter box but it used a sharp knife that would shear the miter.

I use a wooden mitre box a lot in the shop, usually followed by a cast iron mitre trimmer. I used to have an Oliver No. 2 trimmer, which weighed about 400 pounds. I miss that machine but I don't miss the floor space it took up!

That looks like a Stanley no 358! ..I love them. You're missing the trip lever to disengage the saw from the locks holding it up in the air.. thats a must have for that unit. This way you can release the saw by simply pushing it forward, no need to use two hands.. You're also missing the sliding material holders/crown stops.. with those you can hold crown moldings in the correct position.. but you can also use them to hold flat material at an angle to the fence. This way when you swing the adjustment arm you are now cutting compound angles And that unit has two small, pointed screws that stick through the fence. These are there to stick into the material a little bit to help keep it from sliding when you are making angled cuts. (That's my guess, anyway) Also, that unit swings to 60 degrees . Awesome

With a chisel - that’s a new one on me. Thanks for the info!

Nice one!

It would be awesome to see you build one , your way . Thank you

I'm looking forward to the beveling jigs, planes and techniques

Great video, great teacher! Thanks Graham. Still haven't heard from your publisher yet regarding purchase of books. Cheers mate!

Really excellent info, Graham! Thanks a lot for another lesson! 😃 Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

Thank you Sir.

Good information and options most woodworkers don't consider. Thank you for sharing. Also, I have picked up most.of your books over the years. Lots of tips, tricks and "lost" knowledge in all of them.

🎉 thank you sir

Thanks

Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience.

I have made a donkey ear to my shooting board . I have made mitre box that will hold a dove tail drawer.

thanks

The donkey ear mitre jig you showed in your book is the perfect jig for trimming mitres on mouldings. Something for a future video?

Nice share.

I have a Stanley 460 mitre box like yours and needed to cut an angle on some pieces that where not available as one of the preset stops. Is there a way to make it stay in a non preset position? If I recall I shimmed fence to get what I needed.

If you don't do anything freehand, then how do you make the jig ? 😂 Have you ever tried a miter jack, i would have loved to see it in the video