i usually go OE on the Tehcm

sounds good, let me know how it works

Where do you get the balls from ( Pause)

I bought them on Amazon. They were. .250 size from sonax. It seems to be a common size

​@TheTheomax how did it go?

It works much better. Two of the round disks for the pressure switches were bad. They looked like somebody took a hole punch to them. The company I got the kit from to repair the switches said In the directions it would be the two on the right side and they were right. It was well worth the time and effort to make this repair.

yes, it sure does.

Did you fix it?

I installed the kit to rebuild the solenoids, kit worked well no problems with that. Unfortunately on tear down I did not find any of the little wafers torn or failed. I did install the new ones and re installed the Tehcm and it did not improve at all. I found a place in Florida, Street Smart Transmission that sells a rebuilt Tehcm, offered great customer service, answered each and every one of my questions before and after installation for a reasonable price. The Rebuilt Tehcm fixed my tranny issues. I also purchased the rebuilt valve body with it for an extra $130 I think. Sure wish I had figured this out before rebuilding the transmission. Oh well, live and learn. Could have fixed it for less than $500 rather than $3500. Ouch! @@warriorplutotrent3827

I forgot to mention, they also programmed the new Tehcm so it worked on install and explained how to do the first drive test very thoroughly. I would use them again every time.

@@mrmcd5728 thanks for the information. I'd rather go the route you took cause that valve body sometimes loses pressure and I think that was your problem as well. I'll look them up and give them a try sometime. Thanks again

Drove at lunch time now with shifter in M/S side appears to shift correctly now... WIll still pull codes and R & R switches

I would scan the TCM to see if there are codes, that may give some direction

Scanned last night with a tech2 shows no codes

In 5th, there is the 3,5-Reverse clutch on and the 4,5,6 clutch on. How does the trans work cold compared to hot?

Gary first and foremost I want to thank you for your excellent video's and the fact you are answering my questions. The trans would shift the same cold or warm in the normal mode. As you may know this car/transmission has multiple operating characteristics depending on position of the shifter. In the normal mode, shift placed in D as show on the dash, it shifted the same way cold or hot. It felt like it was going to 5th and then immediately locking up the converter, shift to 6th and lockup was fine. If I moved the shifter to the right in the drive "D" position the dash shows sD, which is the sport or manual (TUTD) mode in which case the transmission uses a different set of tables. The shift points/speeds are raised as well as TCC lockup points and the transmission shifted fine through all the gears and lockup points. I have HPTUners that I use to tune cars for myself and other people. What is included is what is called VCM scanner, with the scanner I scan any number of things related to the engine/transmission in real time and create a log of what was going on when I am scanning. Another thing that scanner lets me do is reset the TEHCM module and let the module relearn/auto adapt the pressures among other things. I did that last night. This morning while it was re-learning/adapting all the shifts were kind of flaky but after a number of stops and automatic shifts 1-6 and TCC locking it appears that what I was experiencing is now gone. I have to go out at lunch and run some errands in the city (Durham NC) with a number of stop and go's due to lights and traffic which will be a good test to determine if that indeed fixed the issue. I will add another reply after the run. Again thank you for your time and experience.

Sounds like the filter is clogging up, something may be coming apart in the trans, the noise your hearing is the pump starving for oil, when you shut the car off, all the crap in the filter will flow out until its started again, you may want to drop the pan to see whats going on

Gary Ferraro is the same problem with mine but I’m getting a code that says : “ clutch pressure solenoid “

Yes, it has some common issues, but nice to work on.

Translation

Under high load at low rpm my torque converter lockup is engaging and disengaging rapidly. This seems to be what my truck needs. Fluid looks good and everything else shifts as it should. Temps stay below 140 typically. The truck is a 2012 Sierra 3500 srw 6.0 gasser. Would you agree?

Thank you

It very well could be, very common for the pressure switches to come apart.

Sure that will be ok, when you get it back together and it doesn't shift correctly Tehcm maybe the problem. i always change them

I never used the transgo parts but they should all be the same so i would think it should work. Not sure on the price, go to the Sonnax website

Yeah. Down here Gary?

I use a snap-on solus

Fixing the pressure switches should do the trick, very common problem

I use the snap-on solus edge, small scanner and perfect for what i need it for

I’ve got the solus edge as well. Do you have to have anything special to recode the techm? Thanks Gary

This there a check engine light on? any codes in the trans?

I have my 2008 Silverado 2500hd whit 4 and 5 slipping and some time reverse I have to push gas to reverse some

no gaskets or seals, just put back together

clear the codes with a scan tool

I bought mine from Sonnax

The computer is looking for the switch to open or close at a given time, if it reads open when should be closed or vise versa the code will set, common issue is the laminate disc is probably no good

+B Hart I think i have a teardown video on a 700R4, im going to search for it, edit it and i can put that up on saturday. Gary(i should be able to find it)

I would certainly start with that, after the repair is done, the codes would need to be cleared and a fast learn adapt should be performed with a scan tool, when codes are present the computer freezes shift adapts

Thanks for your help

Your welcome.

Could be the number 1 checkball, however since this happens on a turn, check fluid level, if it reads full. i would overfill it and see if problem still happens. Falling out of gear on a turn could be low fluid

@@GaryFerraro thanks for the reply.

@@derrickphillips354 Your welcome

Hi destro what was the outcome of your problem did the overfilling of trans fluid fixed your problem ?

@@williamwinter6797 I took the valve body out and split it open. It was the number 1 check ball stuck in the separator plate. Replaced all of them. Fixed the problem. I also heard that there is a spot for an 8th check Ball but you have to get a different separator plate I didn't do that

Doug Nicholson The 4-5-6 clutch hubs snap on these units

@@GaryFerraro thank you very much for your reply. There is also a wine coming out of the shift solenoid pack with the key on car not running. Normal??

That generally will not causing a slip inbetween gears, are there any codes?

@@GaryFerraro no codes in it only slips from 3 to 4 and not all the time and it got stuck in 2 one time till I put in park then shifted fine

+‫احمد محمد‬‎ Thanks for watching, to rebuild the valvebody, i just put a set of o-ringed end plugs i get from sonnax, and i will try to film the next diagnosis i do on one of these units.

Gary about diagnosis we wait that I hope see that film

i will certainly try

Sonnax sells the tooling and the kits

Any codes in the trans?

@@GaryFerraro I have same thing with a p0776 code

I do have a rebuild video on the Techm rebuild, for 6L90. The shudder that you feel is it like driving over railroad tracks or like a wash board effect ?

@@GaryFerraro Right, but you referenced a TEHCM rebuild in the 6T70 tear down video. That implied to me it was a 6T70 TEHCM rebuild not a 6L90 rebuild. So I couldn't find the pins for checking switch electric in the 6T70 and don't understand why I didn't see it plainly. Not sure I know how to tell the diff between rr tracks and wash board so I'm gonna say wash board more of a chatter always when accelerating

@@GaryFerraro I should include now that the seals and yellow disc films are replaced in the techm the shutter is more frequent if not every time at the 30 mph shift

@@GaryFerraro think i would also add the shake or shudder resonates into the steering column. is that what you meant by feels like rr tracks?

@@GaryFerraro feel pretty sure now the shudder is gears 3 & 5. apparently the 3, 5 wave plate

The hub and shaft for the 4-5-6 clutch probably broke inside the trans

Gary Ferraro thank you i figured it was hard parts being that there was no clutch material

James Smith Actually it is a common issue

Gary Ferraro thank you much for the information. Fun task of dropping the trans from ramps begins lol

Mike Eustice Mike, did it have this problem before? Sorry for the late reply but for some reason my answers do not post,I have to answer through my I pad

Gary Ferraro yes it did the reason for the over haul was for this reason which I found the pump tore up got a complete overhaul bushing bearings fractions and steels it's a 2010 no codes at all performed quick relearn many times tore the unit back out and that's when I noticed that the valve was dragging

Did you by chance do a line pressure test? see what your base line is cold verus hot

Gary Ferraro no I did not I'm going to check the pressure regulator valve and boost valve hopefully later as I put a good used pump assembly in it thank your for replying

I'm going to see I'm my local gm dealer will let me borrow their solenoid leak tester

That's all in one, i don't think you can. what is the car doing?

@@GaryFerraro seems liked it slipped out of gear, also shifting very hard. I called the dealership and I'm just gonna have them rebuild the transmission. They gave me a list of things wrong with it after I dropped it off to them

First, check fluid level and scan to see if any codes are present

Gary Ferraro fluid level is good at operating temperature and got a P0751 code couple years ago and haven’t gotten anymore

@@williamwinter6797 fluid level is ok, very possible the #1 check ball shrunk down

Gary Ferraro ok will have to check that. Thanks Gary anything else I’ll hit you up appreciate the advice

@@williamwinter6797 ok, sounds good

That almost sounds like a checkball shrunk down causing a leak in the drive oil. So no forward but you have reverse?

@@GaryFerraro Yes only reverse

@@skubasteve1751 very possible you have a valvebody problem, a checkball shrunk down and your loosing your drive oil

There has to be codes present, have you had it scanned for codes?

I have the same problem on a 2012 2500 6.0 and the codes I have are p0700 p2723 p0796 any help would be appreciated

+issa alazzabi I honestly cant say yes because ive never done that before, but i would think if your going to try it, you will have to go all the way around so the solenoid wont leak, do you have access to solenoids?

+Gary Ferraro yes i already done that but ididnt install them yet

+issa alazzabi is the pressure in the back of the solenoid is so high

+issa alazzabi not sure, the solenoids are pulsed, some are normally open and some are normally closed, so some open to apply pressure and some close to apply pressure. In the back of the solenoid is the armature that needs to move for a smooth shift, but i would think the pressure could get upto maybe 150psi. As the solenoid is pulsed on, if i leaks out the back it may not be able to perform the way it should.

+Gary Ferraro the pressure is only in the valve of the solenoid right

Are you getting codes? if so what are they

Yes i am P0700, P0777, P0796.At first i was getting P2715, P2726 but those went away after i hooked up the mag ride. I want to add that i re built the trans and installed the sonnax upgrade kit for the 6l80 with a 3k stall converter. I drove the car but it just doesn't seem to be shifting normal. Would that make a difference with the techm?

Also i just went and purchased a new multimeter to see if mine was faulty because it's old but with solenoids 2and4 im getting. 0 reading im leaning towards the techm.....

@@lostfound9346 For everyday use 3K stall is to high, I rarely see electrical codes, The solenoids do become mechanically clogged and it will not shift correctly, every rebuild gets a new one

Well i figured I'd go 3k because of the work that i have done to the motor. I know that i still have to get a trans tune but i figured that it still should at least change gears. Do you have a vendor that you would recommend to get a techm from and also a site to donate to. I know advice isn't free and im appreciative for you taking time out.

what kind of car?

It’s a 2017 GMC Sierra 6L80E

@@franciscoortega5508 if reusing the same TCM you do not have to, solenoids are part of the TCM, they cannot be changed, the pressure switches can be repaired

Ahhhh yes the switches sorry. So if using same tcm it will not need to be reflashed. Great!! I appreciate the quick response.

@@franciscoortega5508 correct

You sure can, just drop the valvebody

If this is the 6L90, no that will not fix the car, the problem your having is a clogged filter, car will move cold but no hot is a classic sign of a clogged filter. What is probably happening is your torque converter is coming a part clogging the screen

That is a mechanical code pointing to an internal problem, trans will have to come out and overhauled? what is it doing when you drive the car?

Car doesn’t want to shift into 4-6 gears, but it will if i manually shift it.

sounds like 4-5-6 clutch is no good, what happens on the 3-4 shift, engine rev up?@@mikeadams8470

@@GaryFerraro it shifts fine man manually shifting it though. 5-6 is delayed though.

If there is a problem with the 4-5-6 clutch it may have issues in the higher gears, that clutch is the driving clutch for the higher gears, if worn may not hold the higher gears@@mikeadams8470

computer keeps telling me theres not enough room, tried deleting getting rid of stuff,still says that

That was my old PC wouldn't let me upload in HD, I have upgraded since

???? Did i forget to answer a question?

@@GaryFerraro Hey Garry. I have a 2010 2500hd 6.0 and I'm getting codes P0965 P0969 P2762 which are solenoid torque converter clutch pressure, and pressure control solenoid b and c. Randomly when I start the truck it's as if it's stuck in a lower gear then I restart the truck and it's fine again. Just curious on thoughts and if the tehcm could be responsible?

Still no reply?

@@davidspurlock9867 Sorry must have missed it, give me about an hour when i get home. want to look up meanings, but i think from the codes your pressure switches my be bad, are you familiar with rebuilding the switches. Again sorry, been going crazy at work, working 7 days last 3 weeks(but not complaining)

Ok not pressure switch codes, all solenoid performance codes, how is the fluid level? Does the truck ever not move when in drive?