The rest of the industry has pushed them and upped the game now. We hope they respond by addressing these issues out of th RTR box, much like Element RC

@@tgags050 Most RTR ESCs aren't very good. The thing is they go hand in hand with most RTR steering servos also not being very good. And if you are going to replace the steering servo you might as well spend the $42 on the HobbyWing 1080 ESC that will allow you to push 7.4v through the internal BEC and also get a much better ESC at the same time than spending that same amount (I know the traxxas BEC is $40) on putting an external BEC on the truck to run your new servo. IMHO a HobbyWing 1080 and new steering servo combo is by far the best immediate RTR crawler upgrade nearly across the board.

I think it keeps the price down on stuff many people will replace anyway.

I have the scx10 ii. It's literally shit out of the box. You have to spend about $100 to make it decent

@@RCReviewChannel I have the SCX10 II '69 Blazer and it came with Tactic TTX300 3-channel radio, it's what is in Axial website too. I just ordered the SCX10 II 1955 F-100 Ford and that looks to have the Spektrum STX2 transmitter, hopefully not. :D - TRX-4 Traxx owner who thinks TRX-4 is not good enough to be bought again.

thank you for that

I wasn't trying to sound like a stinker, just tried to simplify it a little with a beginner in mind, while keeping the budget low. I enjoy the videos, keep it up, thank you.

Shane Mattson great point! 👍🏽 that helps me a lot because I was gonna get all of the upgrades first like metal everything like braces knuckles axles bead locks etc then I thought to myself why not get the rig first then just upgrade as they break etc (10.2 Cherokee or the builders kit still undecided 🧐)

@@lstruggy I got my first Crawler last November. I wanted the kit, but I knew I couldn't finish it for less money than the RTR. So, I went with the RTR Cherokee. Fried the servo, and stripped the plastic gears, but I knew they were weak points, from watching review videos. The wheels & tires were just to improve performance. Haven't had to replace anything else yet, which has let me focus on bodies, paint, and optional accessories. I'm really enjoying it.

just starting out and was looking at the scx10II 2000 jeep cherokee, could anyone give me tips on upgrading it and if it's a good rig

I like your attitude.

Good advice there. All our plastic horns have indeed failed on the field.

thank you, very kind of you.

Axial has two different grades of rubber but they look the same. That may be why you get different performance!

Right on good buddy!

Sharing is caring!

thank you.

True but the happiness factor with a TRX4 Sport or Element RC, no upgrades is quite a bit higher.

Exactly. Getting a used one for a song and then doing these upgrades will be amazing. SCX10 II has the most available options for sure.

agree!!

win 3x

Your videos have been a huge help for me keep up the great work

I got the Hobbywing ESC and FlySky receiver installed. What a difference they make over the stock components - the SCX10 II Ford F100 is much more controllable at slow speed with the GT5 radio system, and has better modulation throughout the entire speed range. With the new ESC I was able to increase the servo voltage to 7.4 volts from 6.0 volts, which increases both the speed and the strength of the servo.

thank you for that share.

Try some servo spacers. Or file a little off the plastic.

@@slickswheels 👍 good idea! Thx. I can just file the servo mount. Its probably 1mm to tall

This was my fix as well. Been fine since. Keep an eye on screws backing out. I run a hot racing servo mount. So thread locker is my best friend.

Turning the trans moves the motor forward to improve weight bias

Exactly right with forward weight bias better climing you will need a bowhouse brace forgot to add trx4 stock shocks with springs from Axial UMG10

As one with a umg10 also. How do you like the extra forward mass? I already feel that it has more than enough forward mass. If anything it feels a bit light in the ass end to me. On steep decents the rear wants to buck up a bit easy. Have a carbon fiber LCG battery tray, servo relocation mount (metal), aluminium shock towers, OD gears in the front axle, aluminum rock sliders and a set of alientac military beadlocks (look awesome and add a bit of down low mass) The OD gears and LCG battery tray were the biggest performance bumps i did i think. More centered and lower mass within the chassis, and the front wheels now help keep that front end sucked down alot more. 👍

As a owner of a UMG10 you would know they have a high center of gravedy from the beginning so with that said moving the rear wheel backward and running a droop setup allowed me to lower the cg down making it climb and descend much better....it also helps to use smaller batterys and adjustable drag break...

@@tomandrews5392 i run a little 1300mah 3s gens ace. I think sub 4oz. 540 can HH motor and 1080esc. Light weight setup. Lcg battery tray combined with the small pack my battery now sits below my motor by a few MM. Stretching out the rear wheel base doesn't lower the CG rather moves the CG around. Longer wheelbase means better climbing and downhill abilities. When you're short and stubby its it's easier to tip over. I like my short wheelbase and i don't want to chop up my rear bed fenders to allow the 12 or 12.3 WB options. Bringing as much mass as i already had down more and putting OD gears in my front axle helped mine a huge load. Side hills better and with the front wheels spinning faster than the rear it helps pull itself over hills. And coming down them with the rear wheels spinning slower it helps keep the rear end tucked down amd digging into the ground. I weighed my body painted and fully assembled and it was 1 1/4 pound. Thats where all the high CG comes into play. Driving style gas a huge impact on setup but i definitely already feel my rear end is way too light. It already has 60% of the weight up front if not a little bit more. Mainly due to the body (cab forward design) I'd definitely look into the low CG battery trays. They have aluminum, metal and carbonfiber ones for whichever amount of weight you'd like to add. Lower in the chassis, Centered and laying flat pack versus off to the right and standing on its side and sitting ontop of the chassis comparatively. It's by no means a serious comp rig but ive made it into a solid little trail truck. How ive gone about it atleast its definitely become a much better performing SWB truck.

Traxxial

Axiaxxas

hella

Beautiful advice!

@@RCReviewChannel Just following your lead...LOL

Anything made for a 12.3" wheelbase should work.

Yeah, upgrade ready but a good performer out of the box.

RC Review what’s your take on the King shocks? I was looking at them in the shop and they look awesome

If you're led's are currently running off of the stock rx then a different rx will run your lights no problem. They use the same voltage

They are running directly off the esc AE-5L not the rx

Flysky GT3B!!! Or GT3C for rechargeable lipo

That is correct. But... the Cross RC Demon does have some bad drivetrain flaws. Check our videos on it.

That is true indeed. The scale builders kit is indeed popular for this reason. Few problems and many option parts.

The xj kit is the way to go.

The latest Tactics have metal gears. The ones on the Deadbolt have plastic.

thank you for that

Classic

On the vehicles we tried, no issues. SCX10.2's and Wraith 1.9

Its what I run in both my 10.2s and 1080 esc's. HD servos.

Thanks for the feedback - I just ordered the Holmes 550 through the link. Again, I appreciate the info.