That's extra grams

@@__val8571 Haha, extra protein!

Getting that book

Always worked for me.

its kinda phony to be honest, its really not that complicated especially if you're riding a fixed gear bike. the only time it should be this complicated is if its wheel building, suspension service or doing a full custom carbon TT bike

Makes sense because the frame flexes under the torque of pedalling. And again it tends to sound like the bottom bracket or even the stem etc

Yea I got my finger bit doing that too, and I was buzzed too. Never drink and work on your bike, learned that.

My fingers hurt just from reading this. I often picture this kind of thing happening, but ouch...

@@BanacaNation Yeah, I got used to working on it with a freewheel, because I was letting someone else borrow it. I forgot the drivetrain does not stop as fast without a freewheel. Not the type of lesson I wanted to learn that day 😅

@@ghosthogday I'm not going into the gorey details, but yeah, much ouch.

@BeboSaab than stay away from disk brakes too, they can do some damage too. I'll still ride fixed, just be more careful cleaning it.

The problem I have with that is then I have to fix several bikes when they add up

@@yardsalecycles True it can get even stressful. Twice I had all of my bikes except one in good working order.

@@MisterSal9895 last time I had to fix 5 flats and that was just a start

@@yardsalecycles So did you end up down sizing your fleet? I just end up putting "puncture resistant" tires on all my bikes and it definitely reduced the chances of getting flats. I'm pretty sure I'm losing 1-2 MPH of my top speeds because puncture resistant tires have slightly higher rolling resistant but that's the trade-off.

@@MisterSal9895 lol no I ended up buy a few more since then (2 weeks ago) I'm up to 30 ish bikes 10 or so are ready to ride the rest are projects I'll get to eventually 😅

R u even try fixed gear with brakes? It more fun tho, imho

@@adityajonathanmamahit2889 i kept my front brake on all the time, even when i learned to skid, i kept it on just in case. Eventually i forgot it was there but a still didn’t enjoy it riding fixed

Yes!! There are even purpose made tools to get a fixed cup good and tight!! I machined such a tool for myself. Another pro mechanic here! The BB SHELL also needs to be threaded properly and the ends of the shell need to be faced or the bearings won't function as they were intended to. This is super important for loose ball units!! This is what professionals do BEFORE they assemble a frame. The head tube must also be reamed and faced and the crown race seat on the fork must be milled. Not to mention the frame's alignment should be checked. I seen 'renowned' custom builders skip or 'forget' this stuff. These steps are important because the entire frame assembly can become distorted from heat during welding. Even if the paint was removed on these areas, NEVER assume it was done properly. Many shops forget these steps because many modern 'plastic' frames don't require or even allow these steps. Many low skill shop 'mechanics' don't even know what or where these tools are!

Have you thought about the crank arm installation on the bb spindle? You might want to read this article on the Sheldon Brown site. www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/installing-cranks.html

Oh I can buy State Bike Black Label V2 here online for a reasonable price.

I mean you could also buy a cheap used bike and switch the wheels to fixed gear wheels

@@plainvanillamiscellaneous6884 Funny I actually did a conversion of some old beater, just for fun. Didn't pay attention and bought one with vertical dropouts. Today I managed to block the freewheel so it's now fixed, gonna try that out. Looking to buy a bike from State Bicycle, either 4130 Core or Black Label V2 - not sure yet. Black Label will be available in Q1 2021.

@@maxkrug2000 that's dope, I just picked up an old bike for 10 € too and I'm gonna try to convert it soon

Lots of factories skip this all important step. This is what professionals do before the frame is assembled. How can they ever expect the bearings to function the way they should? Production bike quality has mostly turned to shit in the name of profits and greed!

Mr Troll It All! I can see why you don't go to bike shops. AKA Mr Know It All

@BeboSaab it didn't cost me anything and the lbs mechanic was able to complete it while I was standing there. In and out.

Apparently the secret is to spend an unreasonable amount on every single part, then you won't be able to afford more bikes. $200 bucks for an alloy seatpost to fit an equally overpriced seat that can't be used in the rain... $130 for a BB that consistently fails...

+1 on facing, looks like there's still paint on the sides of the shell (15:13) its especially important for 3 part bbs or else the lockring can be tight but only touch a small portion of the tube and move under torque.

He makes wrenching seem fun

I had the same bottom bracket and mine did the same as his among other problems. It's a poor design. I worked on it and had 2 different shops work on it and it never went away. Replaced it with 2 different square tapered brackets since then and never had an issue.

Practice makes perfect! Its really not that hard. I learned when I was 9 years old fixing a coaster brake hub. 50 years later, I'm still doing it! Just overhaul your junk more often. That's a good habit! Practice makes perfect!!

That's why I got a philwood bb instead

Make sure your BB threads are chased and the ends are faced properly by a professional shop. This is standard practice for any competent mechanic. Make sure the fixed right cup is very tight! Mount the right side crank and use that as leverage while you adjust bearing preload on the non drive side. High quality loose ball BBs are great, but the frame needs to be prepared properly AFTER its welded. That's the only way they function properly. Ive got decades old Campy Record and Dura Ace loose ball units that are perfect after all these years. I take care of my junk and maintain it to aerospace standards because I have that experience. A track bb is made for the track, not road riding, commuting or bad weather or dirty conditions. This is (not so) common sense apparently! There are no seals or very minimal seals to keep out all the road junk, so you will need to overhaul it much more often. Seals are negated to optimize efficiency. On a regular ridden bike, there are much better choices such as SKF(best on the planet) , Phil Wood, Chris King or many more not nearly as expensive such as plain jane Shimano. A cartridge BB makes bb shell alignment issues less problematic. Why go crazy on a hidden component that's not reliable for 'regular' use?? Using high end track stuff on road ridden bikes may 'look' cool, gain 'fixie points' and impress other fools but it really doesn't make much 'sense' besides lightening your wallet.

They're great on paper, but I'd avoid them due to some questionable practices: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pa2dlr2Buc3bYZs.html

@@ZachGallardo I was thinking about buying one today

Loose as a wizard's cuff! Get a Phil square taper bb. Check the usual suspects like chainring bolts and spokes first. A little grease or WD might do it. Headset on occasion.

Ive found creaks from saddle rails, seatpost clamps, loose derailleur hanger bolts and dork discs, internal cabling and on and on. Most production bikes are improperly assembled. Wrenching in a shop, I can find mistakes and details missed or ignored on just about any factory. assembled bicycle. Many assemblers are paid by the bike so GO FIGURE! Finding a perfectly assembled bicycle like I would assemble it is super rare. Its cause to take a break and have a beer!!

@BeboSaab Yes, how did you know?

My recommendation is, get a 400 to 500$ fixed gear. Why, you grow, in the one year I've went from a 55 is the perfect size to god damn my sadle is way too high. Ones you've grown get a nice bike. I (16) didn't really have a budget too and I'm pretty sure that at this age it's just smarter too go for the best bang for buck price

@@arne_mh yeah I definitely don’t want a “flashy” bike. I live in a not so good neighborhood Chicago and getting robbed at gunpoint or being chased for your bike can be a real issue. I just want bang for my buck

@@-_--ne9op in that case 400-500 dollars might be the perfect price point, also sticker bomb it with some ugly ass stickers, ain't nobody want that bike now

apparently coaster brake maintenance is hell, i dont have a bottle cage either i carry it in my bag but im tryna get a triathlon saddle mount cage

Belt isn't NJS compliants so don't expect Zach approves it. My other bike has it and it's damn cool not to deal with cleaning and lubing it after wet ride. But as frame has to be really stiff for use with belt seems alu frame is mandatory. I've seen steel frames with custom installed seatstay splitters but never have got long term reviews if and how many adjustment issues has created. Steel frames also can be more light and flexy vs really beefy which could be OK.

Yes. The whole production has moved to Thunder Bay while you were getting here. It was a bitch riding there on fixies, it was snowing.

@@hhhorb As someone living in Thunder Bay this is the last comment I'd ever expect to see here.

Tirty tree tousand treez in Toonder Bay, eh?

@@canadianpatriot14 , I have to say, I enjoyed my four months there. Late nineties, one of the coldest winters on record, they were digging holes in Lake Superior to dump the excess snow. I was playing with the symphony (I'm American). The papermill. The Vietnamese mafia. The wilderness. Crown Royal, ice fishing, snowmobiles and one strip club. What a place!

@@hhhorb no no no.... That's Newfoundland man.

Depends how much and where you ride, But anytime the bearings become less than smooth, quiet or perfectly adjusted. I ride all year in any weather. The bikes Im riding most get completely cleaned and overhauled before every winter and after every winter. I get great service life out of everything.

@@rollinrat4850 that's really useful info, thank you. I do ride my bike often (it's a fixed gear with an omnium crankset) but I noticed that it makes a creaking sound when I push hard. It feels like it might be the bottom bracket but I'm not sure. Will take it to a bike shop for a service soon 👍

@@walidb123 #1, if you have pressfit shit for a bottom bracket the noise may never completely go away. NEVER EVER buy a bike with that garbage. 1st change to different pedals. They often click or make noise. Remove the chain and feel the BB bearings. It should feel very smooth turning slowly and very quiet when spun fast. There should be no grumbling sounds, just a very quiet 'whirring' sound no louder than the wind. Excessive noise or roughness you can feel would mean your bearings are worn out or not enough grease. Make sure both bb cups are tight and they're greased. The bb shell needs to be properly prepped, tapped and faced. Many shops don't do this on new bikes and its really important to proper function of bearings.Without this proper prep you'll have constant problems and premature wear. Use a torque wrench on the crank bolts. Then grease under all the chainring tabs and the bolts too. Use steel chainring bolts and make sure they're nice and tight. Make sure no teeth are damaged. Check the chain for no tight links. If it still persists, grease your seatpost, saddle rails and clamp. Check the hubs, make sure they're tight and properly adjusted. Check the headset, stem and bars. properly greased, clean and properly torqued. Any where there is metal to metal contact points there should be a thin layer of grease, antisieze, loctite or carbon paste as applicable. The noise could even come from the spokes, nipples or rims in the wheels, even where spokes cross. Know that noise can travel around the bike. Noise and creaks are one of the hardest issues for mechanics to resolve. Often it's not even the bottom bracket, so don't just assume that. Many mechanics even make this mistake. Figuring it out can take time, patience and persistence. At my shop we charge labor by the minute for these sorts of issues because we might have to rebuild the entire bike. So if you can handle it yourself do so. Fixed gear bikes are extremely simple and should be nearly silent when properly assembled. The fact is most factory or production assembled bikes are pretty poorly built. Many of the small yet important details are skipped because it cuts into their bottom line. The best way to make sure your bike is perfect and safe is to learn to DIY! Nobody has a better safety and quality standard than you, yourself hopefully. Every time I build a bike I do all this stuff. I build them all from a bare frame. Its all in the details! My fixed gear bikes are so quiet I use a cowbell to let people know I'm coming down the trail. I spook wild animals without it! I know, I know. MORE COWBELL!!

@@rollinrat4850 haha well as least people hear you riding! Thanks for all this. I'll have to get a bottom bracket tool and try myself before heading to a store then. Always wanted to do what you suggested but with your advice I feel more confident. Thanks again!