Mate I want to commend all of you guys from different gun channels that collaborate with each other. It’s an awesome thing to see. We all gotta stick together for the greater good.

Putting a new gun in the safe is great. Closing the heavy door and clashing them all together...Priceless

As a gun smith I have been tasked with "de-goofing" a few guns... Break-in? I think with modern button rifled or cold forged barrels it's not needed. The old cut rifled barrels did seem to benefit a bit from a careful break-in. The primary thing with a new barrel is to make sure it is clean and DRY.... no oil... at least for jacketed bullets. In fact every time I get a new (or used) gun I take it apart and CLEAN it. It's amazing how much crud you can find in a new gun as well as a well used one. Your chronograph will show escalating pressures long before there are physical signs from the case ifyou listen to what it is telling you. If loading from a moderate load (which you should be as a start point) note the velocity increase for each powder increment (and those increments should be even). When that velocity jump is significantly more than the previous few you are at the bottom of that dangerous exponential pressure curve, so back off to the last increment or the one before that if you are likely to encounter hotter weather than the one on test day. You can be running dangerous pressures long before your cases or primers show signs. Waiting for those signs is using the huge margins of safety in modern arms in a way that was not intended. Just because the gun does not fail this time, doesn't mean it won't later if you persist with hot loads. Hot loads are rarely the most accurate in any case.... Keep safe out there... the pressures we deal with are LETHAL.... be careful. Reloading is not difficult, but it needs care and the utmost precision.

That was fun, thanks for having me on the channel Jim!

Always clean a brand new gun before you fire it. Its usually coated with some sort of rust inhibitor thats sticky and collects dust and debris. Especially inside your barrel

Another one is regarding good triggers in bolt guns in particular: They DO NOT need to be oiled! Oiling can turn an exquisite trigger into a gummy mess, lol. if you DO get your trigger wet (hunting in inclement weather, usually), give a good going over with the hair-drier. Related: putting a wet gun (even SLIGHTLY damp) into an air-tight case. When you open six months later...OOPS! Again here, the hair-drier is your friend.

You definitely had some awesome guests in this episode!

I’ll add a couple: 1.) Overheating the barrel trying to zero the gun. I see a lot of inexperienced folks at the range trying to zero a gun that could literally fry an egg on the barrel. This doesn’t take much with thin profile hunting barrels. As the group opens up from barrel temp, they chase each new impact trying to zero which makes the problem worse. 2.) Installing a muzzle device incorrectly or installing the wrong size. This can happen with brakes or suppressors, and can cause accuracy issues from bullet strikes (wrong caliber) or damage to the barrel if the thread is mismatched or cross-threaded. We had one customer who finally got his flash suppressor on his brand-new AR to “break loose” so he could install a new one only to realize it was pinned and welded.

I usually don’t comment on videos and get annoyed with “great video” comments. This was truly a treat to see all of you guys together. This ranks up there with the Cartridge Wars vid, my friend (friends)!

I'm having goose bumps when I see these familiar amazing gun community youtubers/tutors all together and talk about precision shooting bolts and nuts. Way to go!

Cleaning before firing is huge. My most expensive rifle had surprisingly large metal shavings in the chamber and throat on arrival. Great rifle but glad I checked and cleaned it first. Only one chance to start off right.

Having just a little bit of gun grease at the muzzle of the barrel (had a Mosin put away for winter storage, this one day, it got grabbed for an impromptu range day, wasn't cleaned, and ringed the barrel bad enough to jamn the bayonet and required cutting the barrel down, it ringed right at the front sight!) So always remember to clean and check out the firearm!

All great information and on point with problems I have run into. One mistake I have made more than once is forgetting to torc down the scope after I get it adjusted in the rings and wonder why I am shooting all over the place. Now it is one thing I check on every scope before I shoot. Another problem is breaking down guns for cleaning and not reading the manual first or refreshing yourself if you haven't done it in a while. You can wreak havoc on a firearm if you do not disassemble or assemble properly.

Barrel break in: 40+ yrs of firearm experience, 22 1/2 of which was infantry, never heard of this till the last couple of yrs. Never seen it in ANY booklet that comes with the firearm. Wonder why.

I learned about reloading and rifle accuracy back in the 1970s from a couple of brothers that were gunsmith’s and avid bench rest competitors ( these guys had a 200 yd underground range for testing) and the match grade barrel blanks they used they did a break in procedure. But I am sure machining processes have improved and barrel manufacturing is probably the biggest improvement in modern rifles? I was there one day and they shot a 10 shot 200 yd group one tiny slightly elongated hole! Unofficial world record! This was over 40 years ago lol, accuracy is not a new thing, it’s just easier now!

On the point of barrel break in, like Pete I generally clean any firearm fully before taking it out for the first time. I've had guns that are dirtier right out of the box than after I shoot 100 rounds through them!

I think barrel "break in" is more about working the gun normally to shake it up a little, letting things find a "home" if they need, then recheck torque on screws.

I've an old Savage .222 that was all but given to me by a pawn shop. The person that owned it didn't know the safety locked the bolt, used pliers and who knows what else on it. When they gave up they pawned it and the owner didn't know any better. When he discovered it he thought he got taken. She's scarred from the dummies but still stacks her shots.

Just took delivery of a Savage 110 APEX LH in 7RM, with the bolt separate from the rifle. Even with the instruction manual (which if you read my previous post, I DID READ), it was difficult to get into the action - mainly because the instructions were a little vague and the 'button' you had to push was VERY strong and awkward. SO I went to a dealer and even he had trouble. Love the gun, hate the bolt 'release'.

The Caldwell lead sled can break a stock. The gun store I go to most, has had broken stocks on their range. I don't add weight to my Caldwell. It holds my crosshairs steadier than other methods I've tried. So, I use it to sight in. Then, I practice with whatever I plan to shoot with. My pack or trigger sticks.

Detail stripping your gun and forgetting to take a picture while it was still in mostly one piece. The resultant trudge through KZfaq videos to find a savior. Lol

Always reset your torque screwdriver to 0 inch-pounds after tightening a set of screws with the same specs.

I'm a fellow guntuber and I'll have people ask me things on messed up firearms like I'm their gunsmith haha Slamming revolver cylinders throws off timing, especially on cheap guns Aftermarket muzzlebreaks and their poor install Crooked adjustments from an eyeball install scope A scopes zoom feature jammed on the scope mount Stuck cases from incorrect headspace on home builds Carbon rings from handloads trimmed to short Stuck or damaged brass from overpressured handloads Cleaning or lubed with incorrect applications, resulting in rusting Purposefully dropping and damaging a new gun so you dont have to worry about scratching it And quite a few more lol

This one might not be very common, but I had a friend who brought me his rifle because he put it in a new stock and couldn’t open the bolt after that. Well what happened was there were screws for the stock and screws for the action. Just like whootee said about scope mounts or bases, new action screws can be longer or sometimes the screw for the back of the action is shorter than the front action screw. Long story shortened, the front action screw was too long and jammed into the bolt head in the action. That’s why the bolt would not lift. Also, that can happen with rifles that say they use rem 700 scope mounts. They can be too long and jam into your bolt head. I did that on a Sauer 101. Lol. I don’t remember if it was from a pic mount or the Talley one piece rings but the front screws did go further into the action to where they did touch the bolt head.

I never do barrel break-ins. But something that has helped my accuracy is running a patch of alcohol through it after using CLR. I know the CLR can be a little acidic and harder on weaker barrel steels. But a small patch of alcohol has helped a lot. I've heard of people using Zippo lighter fluid too, but I've never used it.

"Barrel break-in" .... "yes or no" .... "truth or folklore" .... Personally? I think the answer is a little bit of "yes" to all of it. Our grandfathers never did it and were fine - but they were also mostly happy with 3 inch groups. I think the break-in question started when everyone started looking for half inch or less groups. When seeking such accuracy, very small things can make a noticeable difference in results. Lapping a barrel is a great way to improve accuracy, but it's REAL REAL EASY to go "too far". Just like hand fitting a bolt stop in a revolver, sometimes just one short file stroke is "too much" and you have to start over (I've done that). "Breaking in" a barrel is a way to provide "some" lapping of the bore without any worries about "too much". Higher quality manufacturers do that in the factory. AND its not necessary if you're happy with 2 inch groups. There's also fire lapping where lapping compound is put on the bullet, then loaded and fired. Also a good way to lap a barrel, and just like hand filing, easy to go too far - stick to the written instructions when doing it. And, i also believe in "seasoning" a barrel. A cast iron skillet requires seasoning to function properly and keep food from sticking. Just as good as teflon when done right. Seasoning a bore is a black powder technique provides me (subjectively) with slightly faster speeds, easier loading, and less rust. All good things, and all theoretically transferable to modern steels and bullets.

One of my handloading mantras is -there's no sense in trying to get a .308 to do .300wm speed, just buy a .300 wm-. I have also accidentally mixed two gunpowders together in a powder dispenser 🤦‍♂️.

Thanks, guys! 1 to add: I’ve bent my rear sling swivel stud by shooting from my dad’s old lead sled. Recoil jammed the stud into the metal (poor design) stock cradle at the butt end of the sled. Double check any new-to-you rifle stabilizing systems you employ before pulling the trigger!

Now I'm no expert, I am however a tool and die maker with over 35 years experience. ALWAYS !.... check the thickness of your action, or barrel using dividers, a veneer caliper, or a small depth gage, as well as measuring the length of your screws, before you drill, and tap, " flat bottom, blind hole tap", for any mounting rail, scope ring, or device to your firearm. Even if the firearm is predrilled to receive a scope rail or scope rings. In the case of older firearms that have cap plug screws, "where scope mounts may have been installed, or removed or predrilled & tapped" you want to check those as well before afixing new mounting hardware. You will avoid severe disappointment by measuring before acting..... Just a thought.

I ruined the barrel of a very nice browning a bolt chambered in .223 Super short magnum. I was at the range and it was hot outside, I wasn't keeping track of my round count Like I should've been. After about 15 to 20 rounds back to back noticed my grouping at 100 yards looked like a shotgun spray. Ran a borescope down the barrel later that day and I absolutely cooked the rifling. That was my favorite coyote gun. I'll get it fixed one of these days

As far as reloading...you have to consider what your expectation is for velocity to help determine if it's over pressure. For example..a 6.5x47L. shooting a 140g bullet at +2900fps is over powered even if there is no sign of it. What if for some reason that round stays in the chamber...a hot chamber because the barrel is a little hotter than you want? I believe this is the REAL reason temp stable powders exist...It's not the atmospheric temperature...it's the chamber temperature.

I blowed up a 6.5 Grendel AR. I was using a known safe load, having fired many rounds with no problems. I reloaded a new batch with same recipe and BOOM! I think I had reloaded some 9mm just before changing to the Grendel. I think I did not empty out the pistol powder from the dispenser and loaded the first few rounds with 28.6 grains of HS-6. (I was loading the 9mm with 4.6 grains) Well, I pulled all of those bullets and dumped all the powder and I threw out the can of powder (TAC) I was using in the Grendel, in case some of that pistol powder had contaminated it. Lucky for me, I still have 10 fingers and two eyes! Only my pride and rifle were hurt. It completely destroyed the lower and the upper receiver had a distinctive bulge.

Welp, this came out about 3 weeks too late. Bought my first bolt action 300 blackout (Ruger American Ranch), sighted it in, didn’t think to clean a brand new in the box gun, none of my friends have ever done that; it’s brand new. Never knew to check the bolt for that twist. Couldn’t get tight groups, but was hitting well within a hogs vitals, so I let it be. Though it was the ammunition; that could still be the problem, but now I’ll break the gun down, throughly clean and inspect every part, and look for the break-in procedure for the barrel; if there is one. Luckily, I’ve only sent 5 rounds down the barrel and the bolt slid in perfectly. This video is saved and getting sent to all my friends.

Page 1 of every manual is clean and inspect your firearm before use. If you don't run a snake or patch down a barrel before shooting at a minimum, you better be prepared to "stick a thumb in it" if something goes wrong.

Great show. It was nice to see several people I follow in this one!

Awesome video once again. Great to see those guests with you sharing your knowledge to us.

Awesome work sir! Enjoyed the guest appearances 😊

Whats funny here as far as barrel break in. The more rounds somebody can convince you use during " Barrel Break In" The sooner you will be back to buy a new barrel. I learned that from a barrel manufacturer. NDR

So Cool to see all you guys together!

Great to get to hang out for the week! Thanks for having me on!

This one may have already been mentioned but, never, ever ever use “Damprid” in a gun safe! I hung a bag on the door of my gun safe several years ago and did not look in the safe for about six months, when I did, I discovered that the bag had leaked onto several of my pistol’s stored in the door. One was a 1967, supposedly unfired Colt Python.357, YIKES!!!!! Needless to say, it was severely damaged by rust. It took me a year to get the rust to the point I could move the action. Another week of 4 hours a day cleaning and sanding to get it to shoot.

my great contribution to how to stuff a barrel was this little gem, doing load development on a new 6.5 creedmoor IBI barrel, using a magneto speed chronograph and i used a snug fitting piece of wooden dowel in the muzzle to get the gap right over the bayonet, forgot to remove it and sent a round down and the reasult was'nt flash, luckily no one was hurt except my pride, ended cutting two inches off the end to get rid of the mess and all was good, it has now got 2300 rnds down and it still shooting well, no guessing the jokes i copped for many week after.

Really enjoyed this video and seeing all of you. Can't wait to see how everyone finished in your rock chuck championship turned out.

I don't recall ever seeing a set of scope rings where the end of the screws were pointed at the barrel of the scope. That one was a head scratcher to me. Regarding barrel break in, using the rifle as it's intended is going to "break in" the barrel. I think people have simply given a fancy name to a normal practice. Regarding reloading, all powder and bullet manufacturers are going to err on the side of caution due to liability, and there will always be a margin of error built into the published maximum load data. I think you missed one of the most obvious and probably common ways to mess up a gun and that's cleaning a rifle from the muzzle and/or improperly from the breech and damaging the crown.

My barrel break-in story. Years ago I got a Thompson Encore in 25-06. As a reloader I immediately went to the store to get components and saw the now discontinued moly coated Nosler bullets. I did no break-in and shot the gun. I’ve owned several Thompson Center guns over the years and because of that I expected the highest level of accuracy. The 25 shot terrible! No matter what I put through it. I sent the barrel back to Thompson and they re-crowned it. It still shot terrible. They replaced the barrel an in talking to them they gave me their break-in procedure. 1st, no coated bullets at break-in. 2nd, shoot, wet swap, dry swab for the 1st 20 rounds. Next 3, 3 shot groups with wet/dry swab between the groups and you’re done. I’ve done this with every rifle since then and every one shoots under an inch consistently! Yes, I’m the guy with the Thompson Compass that shoots under half MOA regularly!

Barrel break in is such an old wives tale made up by barrel makers to help you burn that barrel out faster. Clean it and start shooting once you build up the copper where it needs to be built up your barrel is "broken in". Now if you remove the copper you get to go through the process all over again and rebuild up that copper.

Way cool to get all these other KZfaq guys together!! You are all great.

Great topic and explanation. It is nice to see you guys get together.

Wrong ammo is the main thing that ive seen trash new guns, in the 6yrs i worked as an RSO all three rifles that got destroyed were people accidentally using the wrong caliber

Another way I found that you could potentially mess up a weapon is after a long hunting or shooting day, leave the loaded magazine and a round on the weapon. Someone I know purchased a rifle at a pawnshop, and when arrived home, the magazine did not want to come out, and the person was smart enough not to pull the charging handle and squeeze the trigger. The magazine was rusted in place and it took some effort to remove it. Also, there was a round in the chamber (waiting patiently).

RE: Mistake #7 and AR variants, Ballistic Advantage is one of the worst offenders. For all of their barrels, they place the barrel data where the handguard and gas tube pretty much obscure it. Not good when you have uppers for 6.5 Grendel, 6 ARC, 350 Legend, etc. along with your .223/5.56 upper. Faxon gets it right, placing the data closer to the muzzle. Love the BA barrels for their value, but that "feature" is a bit of a drawback.

One thing i found & it wasn't me acrewing up the gun, i bought a Ruger American with a synthetic stock. I took it to the range, ran it in & was concerned that it just wasn't anywhere near accurste. No, i wasn't expecting miracles. What i found was the stock was misaligned & was rubbing on the left underside of the barrel. Now every rifle i buy i roll a business card up & run it the length of the barrel in the stock. If it stops or becomes hard to run through, i mark where on the stock, remove the stock & sand/file it until the card runs smoothly through.

Great video discussing things that happen with a new firearm.

Buying a bing bang with a specific coating just to immediately scratch it.

Great video! I dented an expensive scope following torc spec from a ring manufacturer; now I only use the tiny tool they provide and tight until I feel it's enough. Also, I am in the process of altering a wooden shotgun stock to fit me and I am discovering that it is an art and science and I am already anxious about the wood finishing part!

Well done guys! Great content as always.

Great video. Thanks. Lots of good tips.

The collab we needed

I have seen several shooters at hunter sight in with a pawn shop rifle that they thought 300 WM was Winchester Magnum and found out it was a Weatherby Magnum.

Before I had any knowledge of all this, I would clean my 10/22 with a steel rod that would scrape the inside of the barrel. That was before I started using a crown protector

Nice seeing u all work together

Fantastic meeting you guys! Shoot straight boys!

I had a pound of IMR4007. I had not seen or heard about the recall on the powder. The first round fired detonated. The stock cracked, and the bolt wouldn't open. I was able to walk away with very minor scratches. I shortly found the recall. When I called hogdon, they were very surprised I had loaded rounds without any immediate problems. They said I was very lucky and very helpful in getting things fixed.

My 1972 Marlin 45-70 can attest to the fact that you can absolutely do damage using a lead sled. I not only managed to break the plastic butt plate, but also put about a 4" fractured in the wood butt stock. I have since ditched the sleds and now only shoot with bags and bipods.

Awesome vid love to see some more from you all.

How about epoxied and action into the stock? Did it by mistake in a Mauser 3000 because of the odd shaped recoil lug with the dished out sides. Thought it might happen and it did but it shoots great!

Good collaboration. Really good group of guests.

The only issue I have had building a gun was too long action screws. I was mounting a Magpul Hunter 700 SA stock to my first Zermatt Arms Action. I took them out and cut/machined them to the correct length. I have not had that problem with any of my other builds. The big reason (knock on wood) that I haven’t had any issues is I learn from mistakes usually other peoples. Videos like this one keep me from making the same mistakes. I am a big fan of Piet at Impact Shooting and have followed his advise on cleaning before firing a gun the first time ever since he made that video. I do not do a barrel break-in. I am shooting factory ammo (mostly Hornady) and I get sub MOA groups at 100 yds with most of my guns. I have watched a lot of KZfaq Videos on the subject and with the exception of Pieter, I haven’t see anything that convinces me it has any merit. Every time you fire a cartridge there are changes to the chamber and barrel and those changes will be exaggerated especially if you are shooting loads with varying chamber pressures and velocities. Thank you for this video and it is awesome to see the collaboration, especially seeing that Piet came all the up from South Africa.

Barrel breakin is no nessasary. Do it if you want. one manufacturer admitted it was only suggested because ppl ask for it. In test done there was no noticeable improvement or loss of accuracy.

Never have Super Glue anywhere near you when cleaning or working on a firearm.

I know a lot of people don't know that you can decock a bolt action but you can make sure it's unloaded put it on fire lift the bolt pull the trigger and let the bolt down it will decock a bolt-action gun

I'm happy you brought up the barrel break in thing. Some time's I feel its a lot of hot air being blown up the pipe. Growing up I never heard of barrel break in. My father and Uncles never did that stuff 30 years ago. People say technology has improved everything in rifles, does that mean rifle barrels of the past are better than those of today if you have to break it in?

Looking forward to seeing everyone’s videos from this!

I was cleaning my 1950s vintage Remington 740 that was malfunctioning due to never being thoroughly cleaned probably since it was made. So I cleaned the barrel after removing it with CLR which worked great but then I needed to clean the bolt after disassembly in the ultrasound cleaner and looking at the dull finish on the bolt parts I took them to be plain steel and used CLR again instead of just dawn. It stripped the plating of either chrome or more likely nickel from all the parts exposing the copper plating so now I have to get all the bolt parts re plated ☹️

I've had 2 of these come together to be one My dad replaced the stock on a old savage 110. One action screw is just a smidgen to long. The bolt will catch on it and not allow it to fully seat. Have to back out the screw just a little bit. Close the bolt. Then tighten screw back just til its not contacting the bolt. Prob hold better groups if I filed down that screw just a bit.

After a reloading session, I always remove the power from the powder measure so I cannot forget what powder is in there. And, like you suggest, always start with a light or starting load from a reputable manual and work up - as soon a you see any high pressure signs back the load down just a bit. Do not blindly trust a load you found on some internet forum.

Good video guys, would like to see more like this one

Great video man. We all have done it ....good to see people admitting it.

When putting loctite on scope base screws, make sure you apply it to the screws and don't use too much. It will get into your action and cause bolt operation issues. It is really hard to get dried loctite off of the inside top of your action.

Good info. Thank you!

I’ve bought new Leupold scope rings. The lowest detachable rings. They had same torque specs as the higher rings but the lower rings have much less metal. They totally cracked before I got 3/4 of the way to the proper torque value.

I can vouch for the last one. Ruger Precision Rimfire, bolt wasn't going in no matter what I tried (seemingly). Well, with a bit of torque, I got it turned into the right position, and it slid like buttered glass. Don't force your gun if it ain't an AK.

I enjoyed this video. I too have done something stupid. My nephew wanted me to sight in his new 308. He had started the process at my home range before he called me out because he was struggling. I removed his scope and rings and reinstalled with proper torque settings. He had used about 3/4 box of ammo during the earlier attempt. As ai brought each shot closer to the bullseye at 100 yards, I ran out of ammo. I remembered that I had some old ammo in my safe. I started shooting this ammo and my next 3 shot went to a 10" group. I then put on my reading glasses to see that I had put 7mm-08 ammo in a 308 box...and just sent 3 shots rattling down the tube.

All the guys in this video have vastly more knowledge and trigger time than me... but I do have some insight to share: I didn't damage my gun but I learned a valuable lesson on torquing action bolts... My gun shot decent but would occasionally throw fliers or just have inconsistent grouping from one shooting session to the next. So I researched and one of the remedies was to torque the action screws. The manufacturer of my rifle recommended 55 in/lb of torque... So I got a torque screwdriver and tightened to 55 in/lbs. and went shooting... The rifle shot like garbage. Proven loads were horrendous. I wasted hours and money burning up components trying to rectify the issue... Then I remembered I had set the action bolts to factory torque specs... And I also remembered a video of two shooters who started low on torque and went up in 5 in/lb increments and showed how it affected groups. So I backed off my torque and started working back up... At 35 in/lbs my proven loads started shooting one ragged hole. So that's where I left it set... And now I verify it before every shooting session. Sounds like VooDoo but it made me an absolute believer. Try it for yourself. Scope rings: Buy the best damn scope rings you can afford. Good scope rings will allow a lower end scope to perform to its full potential. And inversely, poor scope rings will render the best scope out there virtually useless. I have sworn off aluminum scope rings forever and buy steel. I personally use Warne rings. Are they the best? I don't know... But they have proven themselves for me. And they are steel. And a big plus, made in America.

A common thing in the milsurp world is improperly fitted screw-drivers. It's common to find guns with really messed up screws I'm sure this happens in the hunting world too.

I use a Caldwell lead sled because I am old and shaky but I never weight it down and once the gun is sighted in the sled gets put away until the next gun purchase.I have also had more than a few base screws longer than needed even from expensive manufacturers

First thing I do is disassemble a new firearm thoroughly inspect the parts for obvious defects, check the bore and check the chamber, clean it, lube it, and cycle the action at least a hundred times if it is a semi auto. Before I fire the first round I check the safety and and make sure it will not fire out of battery through dry fire testing.

Mr. Backfire, I was surprised to see you in one segment shooting from the prone position, with no eye protection ! Aside from that, great video !

Yeah hear you about barrel break in etc, suppose the jury is still out on this topic, however I've lashed out for a few top grade barrels and did the break in process, yep time consuming etc, but was it worth it, have to say yes for me, as the time and money invested had resulted in some exceptional great times!

Thanks for the information.

Great advice by all 👍

Love the type of video. Keep them coming.

I don't break in barrels. I just shoot and clean as normal. I also like to buy quality, I have owned a number of Tikkas, they all shoot excellent, never broke-in a barrel on any of them. I do make sure that I clean a new gun before shooting it for the first time, and I check the torque on all bolts and screws.

@6:50 Once saw a guy with a brand new Christensen Arms 7MM Rem Mag injure adjacent shooters because a cleaning patch left in the action blew out through the muzzle brake. Lacerations incurred.

Best video ever awesome information sometimes it’s the little things that really matter. You get all excited about a new rifle or scope and just dont see the obvious

I don’t ever break in barrels, but any firearm I acquire, I always strip, thoroughly clean, and lubricate before I ever shoot it. There is definitely all kinds of junk in there from the manufacturing and shipping process. I know people who just buy guns and go shoot them, and it makes me cringe. Lol

Awesome video and hope someone somewhere like Sportsmans purchases this from you to sell there gun service plan

@4:32 - Mistake No. 4: Barrel break in, there's also a bit of a missed middle ground as well, a lot of barrel break-in procedures sound like it's between completely made up black magic and sales gimmick. As opposed to "Wipe down the action and barrel to get the machining/shipping/storage gunk off." where I can see the problem of gunk and the goal of getting gunk off being achieved. The break-in essentially comes down to an oxymoronic "keep firing and cleaning until the barrel shoots good, and then it's broken in". I don't begrudge anyone who fires 3 shots, clean, repeat X2 but it's frequently by their own admission, not science. Personally, the idea borders up against bad manufacturing and engineering. If your manufacturing process ends with your user performing voodoo to get your product to standard operation, even if you've got the documentation to prove performing voodoo works, your manufacturing/engineering is sub-par.

Hey Jim, what scope in the $2000 and under range would you recommend for a precision chassis rifle in 300 PRC? I want all the good features and great glass. Thanks for your input. Love the Rock Chuck Olympics.

Nice video…more like this please.