You're welcome, Andy - thank you for watching!

Awesome, thank you Dr Webinstein!

You're welcome, man and thank you for watching! Great idea to keep & hoard those 700R4s as they are definitely getting scarcer by the day.

Appreciate it!

Hi Lonepine, use Sonnax's pinless accumulator piston and their stiff spring for the 4th accumulator. That's the most aggressive set up for that bore without blocking it off all togther. Install your trans pressure gauge in the pressure port behind the bell housing to check line pressures.

Hi Nick Thanks for the reply The 700 is going into a 55 GMC with a Chevy mild stoker for just cruising. On one of the 700 series you have the pressures at idle and stall I can't seem to find it can you help me out with that While I'm at it what should the clearance be on the 3-4 pack without the load release springs

You're welcome...Please subscribe to my channel if you haven't already. Search "B&M 700R4 Throttle Valve Cable Adjustment Instructions" and a few different options will come up.

Yep, I remember that little ball that Transgo use to have you put in that L/U solenoid but they removed/deleted that step and ball some point relatively recently. I looked at the instructions they have on the Transgo website for all 700R4 shift kits they offer and none had that step or ball documented. They prob eliminated it because it was forcing the trans/converter into lock up too early like you experienced (just a guess on my part).

@@nickstransmissions Most of the time, I used the Shift Kit that came in the green box, had a picture of Gil Younger on it. The dash 1, 2, & 3 kits were in a bigger box, opened up like a pizza box. Their tech line could help you through problems. TSR Racing are good guys too.

Thanks, Travis - appreciate the kind words! The breather tube (assuming you're referring to the vent tube that comes out of the top of the case behind the bell housing) should have a corresponding port in the pump for it. Re your solenoid: Fitzall has a TCC Solenoid that will work - they run a single wire set up, I believe and you simply splice into the existing wiring harness. You can also purchase a Rostra wiring harness with the TCC solenoids integrated for about $40 or so...

@@nickstransmissions Actually I'm referring to the tube that goes over the valve body.

Ok. That's not a breather tube (the little tube on the top of the case is the breather (aka vent) tube. You're describing the forward accumulator-pump feed pipe that sends fluid between accumulator and forward clutch. Does the transmission have an auxilary valve body? If it's a late 87, it should have one.

@@nickstransmissions it does yes

If the stator support portion of the pump assembly does not have the port for the forward accumulator's feed tube (sometimes it's referred to as a transfer tube) you have a non-auxiliary valve body pump installed. You will need to locate the correct stator support that is compatible with an aux valve body.

Hi Bill, I do take on rebuild work and will be setting up a website soon where folks can contact me directly. I'll have a video announcement once it's up and running.

Thanks, bgehret3141 - appreciate the kind words! Good questions: I'd do all of those....the .472 boost valve is fine for most street applications however if you want to go all-out, run the Sonnax .500" boost valve kit. Put a Sonnax wide sun gear bushing in the rear sun gear - use red loctite on OD of the bushing as added insurance against walking at higher RPMs. Install a 2003+ reaction shaft if you're going to do the Sonnax smart shell. The 03+ reaction shafts replace the thrust washer on the front side of the sun shell with a torrington bearing. So between the Sonnax shell rollerizing the center support thrust (black thrust washer is deleted) and the 03+ reaction shaft bearing, you have rollerized the middle of the case. Install a Corvette 093 servo (install a new one if yours came with one as the pin bore wears). Buy two Sonnax pump body bushings, install one in the pump body and one in the rear location in the reverse input drum. Also, get Transgo's unbreakable pump ring kit and put that in place of the stock slide priming spring and pump rings. Beef up the 3-4 pack with a 4L65E spec clutch pack - you'll need the apply plate, backing plate, frictions and steels for a 4L65E. You'll fit 7 frictions in that clutch (keep clearance between .040-.050 and delete the load release springs). It's up to you if you also want to install the Transgo bleeder orifice from the 7-CS kit. Install an Alto wide 2-4 band and turn your reverse input drum to make it perfectly flat again. Drill the spacer plate out based on converter stall and desired shift firmness - make sure you keep the band release and 2-3 feed similar in size, otherwise flares or tie-ups may occur. Install Transgo's updated TV valve and spring set up to prevent TV valve sticking....Buy a new TV cable and yours is worn. Lastly, upgrade that forward drum with late model (97+) bonded pistons and corresponding updated return spring assembly. Between all those things, that trans should be able to handle up to 450-475 HP and 5500-6000 RPMs. LMK if you have any ?s.

@@nickstransmissions Ok, I'm putting the transmission together. I got what I thought was the 2003+ reaction shaft and bearing (GM 24217328 and GM 19356510) and the assembly with the Sonnax Smart Shell seems a little too long, as I can install the output shaft retaining ring. It seems the shaft isn't protruding throught the carrier far enough. Any thoughts what the issue might be? Bob

Correction: I cannot install the output shaft retaining ring

Hi Bob, check the torrington bearing between the front planet and reaction shaft to see if the bearing fits entirely in the pocket on the reaction shaft or if it's too wide...If it's too wide, it will cause the front planet to sit higher than it should, resulting in you not being able to expose the snap ring groove and install the snap ring on the output shaft. If it's not that, it's also possible that you installed the rear ring gear-to-case bearing upside down. Lastly, did you install the race that came w/the Sonnax Smart shell right side up? Those are the three things that come to mind atm...

@@nickstransmissions I turns out that the bearing packet in the new reaction shaft (03+ roller bearing type) is smaller than the pocket in the old reaction shaft (thrust washer type.) Also, the new roller bearing is a little bigger in diameter than the old one. The combination of new roller bearing and new reaction shaft would not assemble with the bearing fully seated in the pocket. Fortunately, the old bearing fit ok in the new reaction shaft and it felt like it was ok. (Interestingly, the new bearing fit into the pocket in the old reaction shaft.)

Hi Michael, while I don't give out my location on KZfaq, I'd be happy to answer any questions or provide info you need for your 700R4 project. Feel free to post your questions here and we can go from there..Thank you for watching!