Thank you and you're welcome, Stuart!

Sorry to hear of your father's passing, man. Let me know if you have any more 700r4 questions and glad i was able to help you make an informed parts decision.

@@nickstransmissions I appreciate that.

Thanks, Fidazooo lokote!

Thanks again!

Hi Thomas, thank you for watching...The later model valve bodies are a bit more reliable in my experience than earlier ones but if you have an 82-87 valve body that works, then you can install either Trango's or Superior Tech's mechanical lock up kit and it will work without any other electrical/mechanical TCC kits or set ups. I always install the 'Camaro' spring if using the Transgo kit or the heaviest spring that S.T gives you when using their kit. I also think Transtar sells a basic kit for like $20 that comes with one TCC l/u timing spring.

Hi Robert, I would look for anything from 1988+...You can determine vintage and year as follows: 1. Any 700R4 that has a large, upside down "U" shaped crease on the passenger side of the case is a 1988+ unit 2. Look for the alpha numeric code stamped into the rear pan rail on the passenger side - the first number will indicate year... So a 700R4 that has a large U shape crease and a '2' as the first number indicates a 1992 unit. Conversely, if it has a '2' but no large crease and a 27-spline input shaft, it is a 1982 unit and you want to avoid those like the plague. The 88+ transmissions all have auxiliary valve bodies, the latest forward drum design which allows for lots more options for 3-4 clutch configuration than the prev drum. Pump has been upgraded from 7 vanes to 10 vanes and input sprag has been upgraded from a 24-element sprag to a 29-element sprag. Thank you for watching!

Thanks, Nyxie_games! If you have an 85 unit, you should be able to run a mechanical lock up kit in the valve body, no need to block off any valves (It wouldn't work anyways because the converter clutch would always be applied and vehicle would stall out when coming to a stop). Transgo or Superior both make kits. You can also buy a basic kit from Transstar for like $15 or so which I believe is designed to trigger lock up when road speeds reach 40 mph or so.

I've had to do that a couple times as well (modifying an Aux VB case to take a non-Aux VB application). I've never modified a non-Aux VB case to work w/an Aux VB set up...

Hey socosoja, thank you for the kind words man! Glad my vids have helped you get started on rebuilding those transmissions...Re your question - are you referring to the appx .050" hole in the TV limit worm tracks, towards the very front of the TV limit valve's bore or something else? If no, let me know what orifice you're referring to and I'll look further into it as I have to do some 700R4 work later today and tomorrow.

@@nickstransmissions correct. The hole in the TV limit valves worm tracks.

@@nickstransmissions I seen the middle valve body in the video has this hole

I believe they all have it, either with or without a restrictor orifice (I have 20 700R4 valve bodies, looked at six and all six have the hole which is a bleed hole...The clutch circuit in question is the 4-3 sequence circuit, primarily responsible for downshifting from 4th into 3rd, at least per VB diagram in the ATSG manual, page 27 however the TV limit valve bleeds off excess pressure to avoid runaway line pressures in any of the apply circuits. This PDF shows the TV limit hydraulic circuitry and goes into more detail and the 'bleed hole' as shown in the diagram, I believe, is the bleed hole you are seeing in that particular channel that goes in between the TV limit and Acc valve bores: file:///Users/nicholasnuciforo/Downloads/700R4%20Tech%20Guide%20(1).pdf Good question!

Hi Dex, thanks for watching...I'd build the 91 case up as it has all the updated parts in the forward drum, including the 29-element input sprag...While you can retro that back to the 86, the 88-93 cases are the best 700R4s. You can also install a mechanical TCC lock up kit from either Transgo or Superior Tech into the valve body of the 1986 and bolt that valve body to the 1991 unit and it will work without you having to install any electro-mechanical lock up kit.

Yep, it's definitely a contradiction...The problem with those early valve bodies is frequent no 3-4 upshift complaints combined w/inconsistent TV pressures at Stall. It's usually due to a worn TV valve and/or valve bore. Sonnax makes a reamer and oversize TV Valve kit that folks can use to rehabilitate that bore so the VB will function normally (you may already know this but putting it out there for anyone who may not). It won't work on the sleeved versions but for the non-sleeved ones, it's a good option for folks. Sonnax TV Valve and Reamer info: d2q1ebiag300ih.cloudfront.net/uploads/part/1664/77968-IN.pdf?v=1575998690796 I routinely install the early VBs onto the 88+ cases for those doing resto-mods and non-computer controlled deals where no one wants to mess w/the electrical internal / external lock up kits...Some opt for conversion to a non-locking TC set up and for that I use Transgo's kit.

Correct! My electric speedo was a mf to swap over

Will, the change was on the 1993 valve body. I included a picture of the underside of the 93 valve body showing the third check ball location towards the end of the valve body portion of the video. No changes to the plate.

@@nickstransmissions I've bought several NOS Delco valve bodies. The part number correlates to a 93. On these valve bodies the area you spoke of looks identical to the 87 to 92 valve body. No casting for a ball. That's why I asked.

@@willforbes6373 It may not have been universally applied across all makes/models that got a 700 that year however the ATSG checkball manual shows it to be there and i rebuilt a 700r4 from a 93 camaro years ago and recall seeing it. Are you working on a 93 unit?

@@nickstransmissions no I'm working on a 90. I picked these valve bodies up cheap from a major parts supplier over here in Australia. I believe they may have been miss boxed. I was searching for information and came across your video, I found it helpful.

Thanks, Will...I'll look into it on my end as well...Am going to the hard parts supplier in my area tomorrow so will see if they have any 93 valve bodies in stock...I am going to be uploading/publishing about 15-20 more videos on the 700R4, including a start-to-finish complete rebuild featuring some performance/longevity mods, over the course of the next three weeks or so...Please subscribe if you haven't so you can be notified. Thanks again for watching!

Hi NSM Turbo, you will need to install an electro-mechanical lock up kit and toggle switch to manually control the lock up as you describe. Remove the mechanical lock up kit from the valve body and reinstall the aluminum slugs. Then install your internal external lock up kit and toggle switch and you should be good to go.

@@nickstransmissions thanks for the quick response!

@@nickstransmissions sorry for the dumb question regarding the aluminum slugs. Do I need to purchase these slugs or do I already have them? The previous owner had a Transgo hyd. Lockup kit installed. It currently locks up immediately after shifting into 4th gear even at low speeds. I purchased a 2 wire pressure switch for 4th gear that will trigger the ground on my new solenoid. I will then run a positive from a toggle to the other side of solenoid to control lockup when I want in 4th gear. I'm just not clear on what I need to remove or if I need to buy these slugs? I greatly appreciate your time, thanks!

@@nickstransmissions so I found a diagram online that shows the slugs/plugs you are referring to, but I cannot find them for sale anywhere. Do you know where I can purchase them or have part numbers? What would happen if I wire up the solenoid with the hydraulic kit installed in the valve body? Thanks again!

Look for a local transmission parts supply shop or local transmission shops, one of those places should have some laying around. If you have two different lock up mechanisms operating at the same time they will 'compete' with each other and likely cause the converter problems but can't say for sure as I have never built a transmission like that.

Are you referring to 93 700R4 applications? I think so, just confirming...

@@nickstransmissions yes. Still retain 4 pin lockup plug, not 5 like Camaro/Corvette.

Rgr, great info @pmotorsports88276! Thank you. I may get a 93 valve body in and if I do, will do a follow up and cite your comment here when i talk through the makes/models that received 4L60s in 1993.

Hi NG, You have an ‘85 unit as the 4l60e replaced the 700r4 across most applications in 93, except for vettes and f-bodies, and they transitioned to the 4l60e in 94 so any 1995 unit will be a 4l60e. Look on the pass side for the case electrical connector - the 4L60Es have a large round connector whereas the 700r4s all have a square connector, except 93 which is round but not as large as the 4L60E’s connector.

You’d have to drill the bore and modify the worm tracks on the underside of the VB. Not recommended unless you really know what you’re doing and have the proper tooling (reamer, mill, etc) to do it. I’ve never explored drilling out that bore but would be a great mod if it were able to be done.

That's a good question. I'll be in the shop a for a little while so will compare the two valve trains side by side and reply back, letting you know later today/this evening.

@@nickstransmissions my phone died im on the shop computer, i pried on that slot cut out like a d***a** and it broke off, i have a early early valve body, and saw the the actual 3-4 shift valve, the inner most part is the exact same, the sleeve how ever might be different meaning that the fluid flow is different? but it also almost looks like the fluid flow will be the exact same, just delivered from the bore side of the valve body up through channels in the newer style sleeve?

@@nickstransmissions ive been up all night trying to map it and figure it out but im not a transmission person

I believe they are very similar; I have a few early and a few late 700r4 valve bodies on the shelf so will pop out the 3-4 valve trains out and compare them side by side to let you know.

I had a chance to look at an early and late valve body w/those valve trains and the later 3-4 TV sleeve, valve and spring are larger and longer than their early counterparts by appx 1/8" in terms of overall length. The shift valves themselves are identical dimensionally and the worm tracks are also identical in the area of the 3-4 valve trains across all of the valve bodies i have (early and late). The early TV sleeve has the roll pin slot on the opposite side of the late sleeve such that the ports are facing up on one and down on the other. The bores in each valve body at the 3-4 location seem to be identical; length and diameter for both the TV sleeve section and the 3-4 shift valve section. That said, I have no idea if it will actually work once put on the road and driven so would love to hear what happens if/when you try. Please let me know...

Hi, No wave/cushion in the low reverse unless you swap to a late model ('88+) apply piston. Steel on the bottom then friction and so forth.

@@nickstransmissions awesome thank you for answering me, this really puts my mind at ease!

You're welcome, man. I have quite a few 700r4 vids on the channel and will be doing more soon so please sub if you haven't already so you can be notified.

Thanks, Brad!

Hi Brandon, thank you for watching. Get Transgo SK700Jr unless you are doing something high performance than get the Transgo 700R4 Reprogramming kit or SK700. All of those kits will service all valve bodies and transmissions across all years of 700R4 / 4L60 from 1982-1993.

@@nickstransmissions thank you much sir

You're welcome, man.

Hi Kimberly, You can install a 10 vane pump kit into an early pump that originally took 7 vanes. Just purchase a complete 10-vane pump kit with new slide, rotor, rotor guide, vanes and other small parts. If this is for high performance, also install Transgo's unbreakable pump ring kit. I'd advise against doing a 13 vane as they were specifically designed to keep the late model 300mm stator-compatible torque converters full at high RPM WOT shifts and technically are weaker than the 10 vane pumps owing to the additional three slots for vanes. Beyond that, it's doable - your call. Is the pump in question going into a transmission that will ultimately be installed behind a v8 for any sort of performance application?

@@nickstransmissions i would like to jump in this, i have a 13 vane i planned to install in mine, with the hope that the extra vanes would spread the load from the line pressure, help make my line pressure more consistent and instantaneous, and create more of a stable rotation to avoid a pump explosion like the cheap 10 vane they had in it, my engine is making around 500+hp and close to almost 600 lb torque at the crank

If you're referring to application line pressure (i.e. TV pressure), ensuring the cable geometry set up and adjustment is perfect will be just as (if not more) crucial esp at high rpm WOT shifting. I've seen quite a few 700s fail over the years because the TV wasn't set up just right in HP applications. The 13 vane rotor/slide kits can add stability at higher RPMs (they were originally designed to do this for the larger 300mm stator/TC designs) but are physically a bit weaker, though it's debatable if it's a material difference. That said, 10 or 13 is fine, but at your power levels, Transgo's unbreakable pump ring kit with the updated slide spring specific to engines that will see 5500+ RPMs is pretty much mandatory as is high rate return springs in the forward drum (both return spring assemblies). I would also install Sonnax 1/2 boost valve w/o-rings to ensure you're making enough boost pressure at WOT. The main reason rotors break up, fail or explode in otherwise healthy transmissions is too much clearance between the working surfaces and rotor/slide. Keep clearances between .0015-.0025 for the rotor and .002-.003 for the slide and it will live at pretty much any RPM/power level (w/unbreakable pump rings) the engine's capable of producing.

My application is only about 350 h.p. in an 4000 lb truck. I just assumed that the switch up in vanes was an upgrade to lessen pulsing of fluid at lower rpm , didnt even think about converter fill.

In that case, a 10 vane pump kit will work just fine...That said, I would run a L84-86 pump and input drum w/the 30-spline input shaft as the 83s had a 27 spine input and it was notorious for snapping and/or bending the input shaft splines in stock applications (i.e. 305/350s with around 200 hp).

You're welcome, Steve and thanks for watching...Do you know if the forward drum has been changed out at some point? What are the last three casting numbers on your drum? If they are '097' or '716' you have a late 700 drum or 4L60e drum installed. Those drums had a 6mm feed orifice for the forward clutch owing to the fact the aux vb had the forward accumulator to soften engagement while the '152' drum, which would be correct for your application, had a 3mm forward feed orifice. See my video on 700R and 4L60E forward drum differences for more details, if you haven't already: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pa2ilpZivLm6lXk.html Once you know what drum you have (if you don't already) then we'll know what can be done next. Some folks have modified the non-Aux Valve Body 700R4s to take one (so they can solve the same problem you're having) but that involves hacking the case to create space for the feed pipe, damming up the low rev circuit in the worm tracks to separate it from the forward clutch hydraulic circuitry, installing a 87+ aux valve body pump and separator plate and gasket set and running the feed pipe from the pump to the Aux VB. Some builders will do this but it's not something I have ever done nor would recommend unless you know what you're doing...

Nick, I do not remember the specific number on the drum unfortunately, we hopefully will start shaking the truck down this week, if my wife can’t live with it I’ll pull it back out and tear it down to look. Thanks for the response.

You're welcome, Steve.

Nick, I went back to see what I pulled out of this transmission and after thinking about it I do believe it has the 6mm hole, i used a drum out of a camaro core with an aux valve body because what was in it I have labeled as damaged but I’m really not sure what I found wrong with it, I did this a year ago. So that being what I did I plan on pulling the pan off this weekend to make a lock up circuit, is it possible to block off any circuitry in an AUX valve body and just use the accumulator portion to cushion the blow or possibly restrict the hole that feeds the clutch in question? Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks, Steve

Steve, makes sense and explains your harsh drive-forward engagement. Unfortunately (to my knowledge) there's nothing you can do while the transmission is in the vehicle. Simply bolting an aux vb won't work without the other mods I listed and it's not something I'd recommend doing anyway. The only fix that I'm aware of is to either find a late 84-86 '152' drum and install it or swap the entire trans out for an 87+ 700R4. Also, your valve body has a TCC lock up valve bore already cast. It's the far right bore on the same side as the 1-2, 2-3 and 3-4 shift valve. You can simply grab a TCC lock up valve kit from either Transgo or Superior and install it in the bore without messing with anything electrical. Additionally, you can install that same valve body on any year 700R4 if you run the Transgo 700R4 separator plate, if you decide to swap to a later model 700R4 but don't want to mess with electrical wiring for the TCC lock up.

Hi Jeff, thank you for the interest and for watching! Unfortunately, I don't ship transmissions or perform builds for folks out of state as it's too expensive and logistically complicated, especially if the transmission has to come back to me for warranty repair. It's usually not worth the risk for smaller shops to ship, as we won't get the bulk freight discounts the big reman companies get (i.e. GM, Monster Transmission, Jasper, etc).

@@nickstransmissionswhat if I bring you the car….I have a 1990 IROC 5.7 with a 700R4. Some previous owner installed a 2500 stall converter and some kind of shaft kit. I want to return it to stock or like a corvette 700R4 of the same year. Would you entertain this idea?

​@@paulthesoundguy1 Thanks for considering me for your IROC, Paul! I only do bench builds so you'd have to take the transmission out of the car and bring it to me along with the torque converter. Where are you located?

@@nickstransmissions west palm beach Fl. But I travel alot

@@paulthesoundguy1 Gotcha...I'm out west (SoCal area). I wouldn't mind taking on the work if you frequently travel out here and can drop and pick up (or drop and I'll ship it back via freight). If that interests you, reach out to me on Tahoeyukonforum.com via private message...My name on there is NickTransmissions.