Interesting as always. Using the hacksaw on the pullstroke - i did not see that coming. I definitely have to try it....

Appreciate your videos! One request, though: please lower the volume of the intro music, it is way too loud compared to the main track and I scramble to turn down the volume when it starts. Thanks again.

I know now why I've been struggling with my coping and fret saws! I've been sawing on the push stroke ... Thank you Graham!

My frame saws were bought at local French Vide Grenier car boot sales and all have what you call an American joint between the centre horizontal beam and the side braces. All definitely made by the local users. Works fine.Just a simpler joint than cutting out a couple of loose mortises and tennons. Just made a couple of copies for metal cutting with a modern hacksaw blade and an old spare machine hacksaw blade.

I would call the hacksaw a bow saw, the Swedish name for it is Bågfil, meaning bow-file. Practical hacksaws is a very recent invention btw, and one of the most useful tools one can have IMO. My favorite saw in my very small collection is a Bacho bow saw with a Nobex miter sawblade in it (18TPI or so). I find it very accurate. The long blade makes cleaning out the dust from the kerf very natural and easy.

Thanks for another lesson, Graham! I really appreciate them! 😊 Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

Fantastic share. Thank you.

Thanks for the video. I found the note to use cope saw on pull most useful. Especially for the modern coping saw. Your explination for why was a ahha moment... I was surprised you said same for the traditional frame saw. I find them ridgid enough to use in the forward direction without the blade flexing. I will give it a shot on pull stroke here also.

Excellent presentation.

I learned so much here, including the part about frame saws working better on the pull stroke. Thank you

Great intro, knowing western woodwork tools on eastern way. Thank you!

Great video. Love all of your videos.

Another great video - Thanks Graham!

Interesting, I did not know about the tooth direction. Thanks

People around me when I grew up always had coping saws cut on the push stroke. I never had good results trying to do it that way, so as an adult I swapped the blade around so it'd cut on the pull stroke. It's only been in the last few years I've seen others have it set up to cut that way as well, but I suppose it's also only been the last few years that I've been trying to expand my knowledge of woodworking.

Thank you Sir 🎉

Nicely done ✔️

Good afternoon from Copperhill Tn.

Interesting that all the old saws were pull saws and these days many woodworkers are returning to this style with Japanese pull saws. Is it better control or easier cutting? I wonder.

Hello Graham. Thanks for your valuable lessions. I have learned why planes and hand-saws have a grip which is angled in a way that makes using it comfortable and ergomically. On the other hand, frame saws typically have parallel pieces to grip or can be held on the turned knob as you did in your video. I built a small frame saw (approx. 16 inches saw blade length) some time ago but I can not use it for more than a few cuts if I hold it on the knob or on the vertical frame-piece. I built another with a frame which is angled like a hand saw and with such a grip I can use it much longer without feeling slight pains in my hand and wrist. Is there a reason why typical frame saws are shaped the way they are and not angled? Sorry if this is a stupid question... Best, -wolfgang

💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯🙏🙏🙏🙏

I have enjoyed all of your videos. A few quick questions: What is the availability of blades for frame saws? Did they come in standard sizes or bought oversize and trimmed to length? I'm assuming that like hacksaw blades and Japanese saws the blades were just replaced rather than sharpened. The frame itself seems like something even a wood butcher like myself could have a try at creating.

Graham, you are the first person i ever see using a turning saw on the pull stroke 🙂 I occasionnally cut on the pull stroke however, when my blade is at an angle, and the frame interferes with workpiece if used on the push stroke. These framed saw are truly underated, they cut much faster because they can be so thin. Although they are a pain to use on sheetgoods because the frame always gets in the way. My most used saws are framed, mostly a big 75cm rip saw, and a smaller 40cm one for crosscuting, mitering, small joinery.

The 'american' frame saw seems in need of sharpening. It cut really slowly.

6:23 Is that called a jeweler’s banjo? I’ve seen a banjo and a jeweler’s saw used in tandem at an arts and crafts booth. I made two frame saws about four years ago. One of them uses a standard 10” hacksaw blade so it’s not huge, and is a pretty handy saw. The other one is bigger and uses a Stanley 22” long miter saw blade (new style - nothing at all like a big back saw) and that frame saw works great for sawing logs, but it’s easier when two people are using it!! My keyhole saw holds a little secret … the blade disappears into the handle! All fun aside, it works perfectly for spaces where you have almost zero clearance because you can lock the blade depth is short enough so you don’t poke something on the inside of the wall. Graham - I have a saw I’d like to gift to you. I had never seen one like it before so I bought it at an auction for $10. I haven’t been able to find any information out about it. It’s got a weird design to the blade, so it has to be for something specific. Would you be interested in adding it to your collection of tools? If you’re interested in having it, I’ll make a sturdy box for it, get it packed and ship it your direction.