▼EXPAND FOR LINKS TO THE TOOLS▼ 🎥 Watch Next - Tested: Parallel Clamps, Which Brand is Best? kzfaq.info/get/bejne/oKdkocuYvpmUm4k.html 🛠 Tools In This Video: Wen Drill Press - amzn.to/3TvXksO Milwaukee Drill and Impact Set - homedepot.sjv.io/5brZG3 DeWALT Drill Bit Set - amzn.to/3tm3nW7 Spring Loaded Center Punch - amzn.to/3A7yU1M Brad Point Bit Set - amzn.to/3UTEugp Fisch Forster Bit Set (top of the line) - amzn.to/3DZ7yfC Irwin Forstner Bit Set (budget pick)- amzn.to/3EqnHw0 Wood Owl Overdrive Bit Set (TayTools) - lddy.no/1dld5 Overdrive Bit Set (Amazon) amzn.to/3hEZoBC Self Centering Bit Set - amzn.to/3NWvYuI Irwin Counter Sink Bits - amzn.to/3X7X6ez Wood Owl Countersink Set - amzn.to/3G911kZ Counter Sink Bit with Depth Stop amzn.to/3toCrF7 Milwaukee Hole Saw Kit (Amazon) - amzn.to/3hzG4p8 Milwaukee Hole Saw Kit (Home Depot) homedepot.sjv.io/kjmWkx Spade Bit Set - amzn.to/3EqoixJ (If you use one of these Amazon and other affiliate links, I may receive a commission) Some other useful links: Daily Tool Deals on my website: www.731woodworks.com/tool-deals Subscribe to our email Newsletter: mailchi.mp/7e44c16eefdc/731-woodworks-email-newsletter Check out our easy-to-follow woodworking plans: www.731woodworks.com/store Outlaw's Board Butter - So Good it Should be Outlawed: www.731woodworks.com/store/boardbutter

Definitely auger bits. I've used the longer ones for boring through beams but now there are shorter ones that make going thru studs a breeze.

If you're stuck on a job and the only bit available is a spade you can minimize the tear out by drilling from both sides, just like the forstner. Not perfect but it can keep you going without a major delay waiting to get a new bit.

Rather than using spade bits for drilling through studs, use auger bits they are much faster and need less effort from the user because the screw tip pulls them through the wood. Irwin makes those too. Great video, I didn’t know about the self centering bits. I will definitely have to get a set of those.

I find hole saws to be great and I have two sets (bi-metal, one up to 3" and the other 3-6"), but... larger ones will break your wrist if you are not careful using them. Huge trick I learned when using them on a hand drill is to set the chuck to one of the higher driver torque settings you typically use when driving screws and not the dedicated drill setting. That way, if it catches in the wood (and it will) the torque limiter kicks in and does not spin the drill out of your hands. I learned the hard way. ;) Totally agree on the spade bits, like my Irwin Speedbore bits. They are really only good for construction use like boring holes in 2-by lumber for electrical runs.

The metal box of twist drills is different from the jobber bits like the Dewalt ones you showed. They are a drill index and if you look closely you’ll see that the bits are labeled with decimal sizes (and sometimes letters) which indicate their size to machinists and correspond to tap sizes, etc. Many drill indexes are still sold in metal cases.

I recently picked up some of those overdrive bits and am blown away at how clean they cut. Half of my tests were cleaner on the "out" side than the "in" side. I will also say that I've switched to the KEO countersink bits after the recommendation from Blacktail Studios. They're more expensive but cut so much cleaner than the "tooth" style.

When I started woodworking, I used spade bits and dull saw hole bits simply because I didn’t know forsner bits existed. Man, when I bought my fist set of forsner bits, I was pretty excited to see the difference from spade bits. No comparison. Also, when I switched from harbor freight $15 saw hole cutters to the Milwaukee, again, what a difference. It pays to go for the right bits and, quality bits up to whatever your budget allows.

Spade bits are good bits. The ones that leave ugly holes are the screw tip type but if you get get a good set with the brad point you wont have issues just use the right speed. I can get a hole just as clean as a Forstner bit with the spade bits i have.

Another great video. Two comments 1) Always use the side handle when using hole saws, that way, when the hole saw grabs, you have a good grip on the drill and can avoid the wrist injury. 2) spade bits.... weekend warrior construction guys maybe, but pros will use auger bits because they drill faster, and pull themselves through the timber, so less effort. I've been trying to convince myself that I "need" to replace my forstner bits with a set of the Fisch Wave bits, but just can't justify the cost at this point since the ones I have are still working for me.

You missed the three-bladed auger bit. Fantastic for drilling in heavy timber. Bottom line is each bit has it pros and cons. Use the right bit for the right job.

I don’t know how well sawdust & I go together. It’s actually the bane of my existence 😂. I absolutely love your channel & appreciate you for taking the time to produce & share them with the world. God Bless you & your loved ones!

I just recently started using the brad point and Forster bits as I am still new to woodworking. They are really making a big difference for me. For example, I'm making a wooden toy tractor for my cousins soon to be born baby boy. The brad point bit made it a breeze to drill holes in the side of the wood dowels. The 60 deg angle drill bits are better for metal. There not bad however, choosing the right tool for the job can make all the difference in the world. Stay awesome.

Just a couple things I picked up on, a better way to prevent blow out is use a backer board, and we should avoid spade bits because they are primarily use in construction, lol funny you say that because 2x4's are to but yet you use them alot in your woodworking.

You can largely eliminate tear-out in wood from drill bits by placing a waste piece of wood on the back side of the board you're drilling, then pressing the two surfaces tightly together when you drill the hole.

From my experience, spade bits seem to make a very nice entry and clean walls. I prevent chipping by always putting my project on a piece of scrap wood. This has made nearly-perfect holes every time I used them. (I do take my time though, no excessive pressure on the drill)

Great video. Thanks for sharing. I have all these types of drill bits I also have spade bits (even exchangeable spade bits, one shaft on which can be screwed the tips from 10-20 mm + 25 mm) I never drill through a board which is standing upright as you show in the video. I always have my board flat on the workbench + a backer board under it, all clamped together to the workbench That is for two reasons: I don't drill into the surface of my workbench and it minimizes tear out at the backside of the board (even with spade bits) Lately I bought an adjustable hole saw. The mechanism allows you to drill a hole of any size between 45 and 130 mm.

I would say a bonus bit would be really long spiral bits and augers. I once had to drill an 8" deep hole into the side grain in a 2x10. It was a 3/16" pilot hole that was for a 8" structural screw.

Very informative, I’ve been on the fence for awhile if the wood owl bits were worth the investment. This video answered that question for me and now mine will be here on Tuesday! Keep on keepin on, God bless!

I'm ordering a set if the self-centering bits this week... I don't have any yet and need them for the reason you cited. Thanks!!!

If you don't have (or can't find) your center punch, you can run the angle bits backwards a few revolutions with your drill and it will make a little divot in the wood to keep them from walking when you run it forward.

We frequently used spade bits in our shop. If we needed a larger hole that didn't need a flat bottom, or was a through hole, that was our go to. For almost any through hole where tear out would be a concern, we drilled from both sides, often using a smaller bit to create an index hole. Spade bits are especially useful for this, since they have a long brad point, because you can just drill until the point comes through, and then drill from the other side. We would also frequently use sacrificial material for when we needed to avoid tear out. In any case, we would never just drill straight through if we were worried about what the bit was going to do to the other side of the material.

Fly cutter! While not technically "bits" these are very useful, though a little dangerous. I used to build speaker cabinets and used these to cut the speaker holes up to about 8". As long as the work is securely clamped to the drill press table they're pretty safe. I've also used them with hand drills and survived. 🙂 Thanks for the great content.

One key thing with your Forstner bits: Adjust your drill press' speed to match the rating for the bit, and they won't heat up and dull as fast.

Tear-out hack: I put blue painter’s tape on the back side of my work piece. Burnish it down pretty flat so the adhesive is in full contact with the surface wood fibers. Pull the tape up afterward VERY carefully or the wood fibers will come up almost as bad as tear out, it with practice you can get a nice clean hole almost all the time.

I agree with you on the spade bits. They do come in handy for certain applications though. The old style with 3 points work best in my opinion, if you can find them, big box stores may have the single point with flat spade but are mostly selling the twisted spade with threaded center point. Aggressive fast drilling with rough holes. And a wrist wrencher with the larger ones! Wavy edge forstener bits are so worth the money for cleaner production! Cheers!

I’ve had issues with countersink bits creating non-round (non-conical) results. I did get a new set of bits that look like a cone with a hole drilled at an angle. I think these will work better and jump around. But the conventional style will get limited use from me.

MAny years ago I was a machinist and have drilled holes for a living. Most do not have that experience. So your video is of great value to many even if they do not realize it. Thanks for the many video's that you make.

I'm glad somebody was finally brave enough to come out and talk about the peas and carrots issue. All the respect.

Thank you so much for clarifying the "peas and carrots" thing. I like raw carrots and raw peas in the pod are not bad. Cooked in any way for either is just bad.

Great video. Appreciate the info and agree completely on the spade bits. You can get decent holes if you go through from both sides, but the hole will still be rough.

For fast drilling and no care on clean drilling I like those bit that yave the screw tip that draws in the drill. I use them to drill in logs.

I've been collecting a set of adapters for my 60 year old 2-jaw bit-braces. You can't easily get old bits in good condition, let alone in Metric. So I've got some Lee Valley adapters with square tangs, to take 6.35 mm hex drive bits and a 3/8" square drive, so I can put a 3/8 > 1/2 square drive adapter on it and an arbor for 13mm chuck. Forstner bits are my favorite, they are essentially, a circular plane, though I would like a set of augers and bradpoints. I only purchase on quality, after the initial price shock, expensive tools and bits work out cheaper in the end. Since I'm using a bit brace, accumulating heat won't be a problem. Having use both a drill and a brace, I can confidently say, the brace is the better tool to use for these type of bits. You have more control over the tool and it is more accurate as a result.

Great video. Lots of info and straight to the point. One bit that might not be must have but I use a lot is a plug bit. It allows me to use same wood or contrasting wood plugs.

No matter which tool, a lot depends on technique and ultimately using the tool properly. Good video, thanks!

I use a 2” Fisch forstner bit for tea light candle holders I make primarily from black walnut and spalted maple from my property. It works great. Takes a while to do the holes because I don’t have a higher end drill press, but a forstner bit definitely goes well with a drill press like peanut butter and jelly! Lol!

My drill bit arsenal includes HSS bits, auger bits, spade bits, left hand bits, hole saws (both metal & wood), numbered bits, letter bits, brad point bits, and step bits. :)

i use spade bits often .they can be ground to make a specific size hole or even shape . They can be ground to widen an existing hole ,remove the tip and i can have a bottoming bit .they are cheap and easy to get my hands on .

As always a great piece! Maybe touch on the differences between metal and wood bits for those of us that have a bunch of loose bits and can't tell the difference. Thanks !

Quick tip, try using Boelube same brand you recommended for table saws It’s a water based cutting ‘oil’ that you can use to prevent your bits from overheating being water based it won’t affect your wood glue I picked up the Dowelmax per your recommendation and use it on that bit an it is able to cut dowel holes all day long

I've used spade bits many years. The ONLY way you can get a hole that doesn't look like it's been made with a axe is to use them only in a drill press and use a backer or the method of drilling the hole partially then flipping the board over. Even then the holes were pretty rough.Back when I started they didn't have Forstener or Brad point bits.

I feel like this is a 11 minute commercial for drill bits. Infomercial.

New WW here. followed a YT recommendation a couple years ago to invest in Fisch wave cutter bits and I am SO happy with mine.

I am an electrician, that last bit do be looking useful thanks.

I can hear Brad Rodriguez in my head... Me point bits LOL! Definitely agree on the Fisch forstner bits. I only have one that I bought specifically to drill dog holes in workbench tops which I made out of ¾ inch MDF and MDF is hard on bits (lots of friction ➡️ heat = bad for blades). I've drilled well over 200 holes and that bit is still very sharp.

The angle bits are mostly for metalwork (if they're decent quality.) The grey case usually came with a set. Still do with quality sets check out MSC industrial.

There's one more set I have in my arsenal - stubby brad point bits. I don't use them a lot but when you are in tight quarters, they are invaluable.

Spade bits on the cheap from garage sales make great arrow heads. LOL I do crafting and I was able to cut about 1000 wheels from 1 1/2" pine before sharpening. Great bits for the bucks.

If you are drilling with hole saws or larger bits with a hand drill, I found if drilling with my left hand and the bit grabs it will twist out of my hand, unlike holding it in my right hand it twists my wrist. Have a buddy who broke his wrist when a 3/8 twist bit caught in some steel.

I use the spade bits when I’m dealing with landscape Timbers. I also used them for a 16 x 32 building that I wired up for a hunting cabin. Otherwise they sit around and rust.

I love those Fisch Forstner bits. They were expensive, but then again, I avoid ruining an expensive piece of hardwood due to tear-out.

Flat bottom drill bits- I use them in my drill press to make small mortises in decorative boxes

I still have and use the first set of forstner bits I ever had. Came from a place like Harbor Freight but before HF was around my area. I do them and my router bit sets the same, now when I need to replace one I go up in quality. I needed to cut a shallow hole for a honor coin and bought a Diablo bit, 1 7/8". I paid more for that one bit than the original set !!! I think I'll look into those wavy edge bits, really like the cut they make. I bought my first set of self centering bits off a link on your website last year from Tay Tools. I've been really happy with them and got a nice discount, enough that I ended up with a new set of card scrapers and a couple of small plastic parts boxes to store them on the same order LOL!!!

i bought a set of diablo hole saw bits that can cut 2in deep worked great but as i was cutting through 2 -2x4s it left about 3/4 in that i had to use a ug (spade bit). love my Montana countersink bit set with reversible screwdriver on the back side!!!

Id say a really nice butterfly bit is always worth having in the back. Not gonna use it every day but when you need it, you need it.

This is an excellent video a lot of carpenters would find interesting to watch with great knowledge and is ideal for hobbyists and learners who love to know things they would be nervous to ask and certainly something I needed to know I'm saving this video as a must template to know especially when I need to save to purchase bits while only on a disability pension. Knowledge is power and an asset to budget buying as you say if some things are expensive but worth it then It is better economically for me on a low budget in the long run thank you so much

Wood owl bits are amazing! Made in Japan, they're the best bits I've owned. Also, great for construction getting though joists, even with nails, to run wire or plumbing.

really enjoy your videos. I have been woodworking for some years now, but am always eager to learn more. Thank you.

I recently tried the Wood Owl double flute brad-style bits to drill 3/4" dog holes in my new 2" solid birch workbench top. I drilled 48 holes with one bit. The holes were clean on the entry and exit side. I had purchased 2 bits (just in case) but only used one. The second one is still in the tube. Thanks.

There are four styles of spade bits and I agree with most of the comments on them. However two of the styles work much better for fine work than the other two.

Just came across this video. Great review of our WoodOwl OverDrive bits. Just to clear up any confusion, WoodOwl bits are made in Japan with Japanese made S55C high-carbon steel. Owl Tools uses the owl and name and is sourced from China. NO AFFILIATION whatsoever. There might be a future cease and desist coming. Thanks!

agreed. spade bits are not designed for accuracy. they are for rough cutting holes when all you just need is a hole in something.

Slight correction for forstner bits: The saw tooth actually creates the least amount of friction. If it’s dulling quickly, it might be because of a small surface area do all the work or maybe a cheaper set of bits (don’t get me wrong. I love my Irwin’s.) The continuous rim bit actually produces the smoothest cut with least tear out. But it produces the most friction. Will heat up a TON on deeper holes and lose sharpness very quickly and produce burn marks on deeper holes. Wavy Rim Bits are the happy medium. Very clean cuts, minimal tear out, minimal heat. Serious woodworkers should get a set if wavy rims, but the irwin sawtooth are perfect for weekend warriors.

0:55 I always use an awl to mark the center before I drill. I only use center punches for metal. 4:14 Bosch makes bits very similar to the Fisch ones. I bought a 5 piece set (15-20-25-30-35mm) and a seperate 40mm when I needed it. I haven't regretted it for a second.

All the bits mentioned are great recommendations , I would like to add that the stand alone countersink you showed are decent bits but they have a tendency to chatter and make oblong cuts. Try out a set of 90 degree deburring bits, they have a single hole drilled through at an angle that makes the cut. They are amazing for perfectly smooth chamfers. I've tried a couple different brands but the best ones I've used I purchased from McMaster Carr. They are branded APT made in the USA. I think you will be very satisfied with the results over the fluted countersinks. Also glad you mentioned the drill press. I feel like the drill press is one of the tools that woodworkers seem to sway more to the economical machines for their shops. I scratch my head sometimes when I see very high quality machines in a workshop that cost thousands only to find a budget drill press. In no way am I questioning your tool choices. I respect your budget and needs. I'm drawing a conclusion from all the popular channels like yours. Maybe it a case of everyones needs, and drilling accurate holes isn't as important as an accurate cut on a table saw. I get it, but I also wonder if many woodworkers have experienced a high quality accurate drill press and the benefits they bring to a workshop? I admit that I do some metal work in my shop, as I'm sure many of us do time to time. So a high quality drill press is essential for my needs. I'm very fortunate to own a nice drill press, and depend on it daily. I'm curious to get your opinion as well as your audience about how important the drill press is in your shop, and if you want to upgrade, what would you like to own?

I would add a step bit. Not for woodworking, but for the woodworker. This way when the woodworker inevitably needs to drill through metal, they can grab and use that step bit instead of reaching for and dulling or destroying their set of twist bits that they hopefully got a decent set of.

For my use, a large selection of various sizes of Phillips and forstners, and spirals and all I need but all that to say… I “need” every possible but that I MAY use at some point

I agree that spade bits are not for all work, I have found that when used in the drill press with a backer board they can be useful. I have found not all spade bits are created equally most of the ones I have tried are junk however, I have a Black and Decker set that is great. One of the advantages of using spade bits when possible is they save wear and tear on your fostner bits.

If you buy good Brad point bits they will have cutting spurs on the outside of the bit which provide very clean entrance and exit as long as you don’t use too much pressure. The ones shown here did not have those spurs.

Id also recommend some step drill bits. I mostly use them for drilling conical shaped holes to hold different tools, not necessarily for their ability to cut different sized holes in thin material.

Enjoyed the video and agree. Also, big fan of Zach Williams. God Bless Brother!

What you show is a spade bit without side fangs. There are versions with fangs that also cut the outer diameter and those are much cleaner

This was such a great rundown! Thanks so much for explaining the various pros + cons of each type. I am looking to expand my drill bit collection and you provided some great examples of why/when to use each type.

i likte the forstner bits they do make some clean holes thy can be a wood workers best friend

I bought the overdrive bits to drill holes in my garden to plant stuff lol

Love your vids, but a 19mm spade bit has done a great job drilling dog holes in my 50mm thick workbench

great overview. Thank You very much !

Short auger bits are better than spade bits for drilling carcassing for services. Spade bits are good too but everybody forgets nowadays that they are designed to run FAST !!

Brad points are my favorite I wish I learned about earlier in my building. Great video, and great t-shirt (his new album is awesome!).

For deep/long holes, I have sometimes used the Forstnerbits for the first centimeter and then the spade bit for the rest of the depth. Goes fast and not so much heat

I had just ordered the Bosch 3 pack self-centering bits from Amazon to install a piano hinge on the palm router edge guide jigs being made. I didn’t think you were going to cover those bits at one time ago n the video. I’m interested in the owl bits. I have a set of Milwaukee auger bits I haven’t tried out yet, but maybe now I will, just to see how they do. Another good and appreciated video topic and good coverage. I usually comment, just to comment. There were only 4 at the time I watched this video.

No spade bits aren’t for the construction industry construction use auger bits, self-feed bits, and hole saws. The wood owl are just auger bits; auger bits can have brad points, standard points like twist drill, or screw points. Much like self fees bits are simply a fast cut forstner bit with a screw center instead of the brad point. The cleaner hole by drilling each side works for nearly all of the bits in question as long as you don’t completely drill through the back before repositioning to drill from the back; this works quite well to get reasonably clean holes from spade bits without blowing out the back of your material. You can also simply use a backer board on the backside of what you’re drilling and simply drill through your board and into the backer which will prevent blowout of the backside so long as the backer it tight to the main board. Spade bits, can drill clean holes if they’re used from each side and depending on the type of spade bit as you can get horned bits that basically cut the outer fibers before the center acts like a chisel similar to a forstner bit; and like a forstner bit spade bits can leave a flat bottomed hole.

You forgot mortise chisel bits! Never used them but they seem amazing!

Taper length drill bits; about 1 1/2 times as long as a standard drill bit. Good for when you need a extra deep pilot hole.

Do you think you could do a video on how you keep your shop clean?

Spade bits have been replaced by Woodboring Triflute or Screwtip Augers. Go 4-5 times faster than a spade.

If you have spade bits, you can avoid tear out with another board behind or below the board you are drilling. Additionally, your center finder on the bit will protrude the other side before the paddle blades do. Stop drilling on the first side, and continue drilling on the other side using the whole from the center finder as your guide/starting position. Keep drilling from the second side and you will get a clean bore.

I don't like them spade bits either. even when I try with a scrap piece of wood behind it to prevent tare out i still gets tare out Thanks for doing this video Matt. I always learn from watching your channel. 👊

I love my Bormax Forstner bits!

Great breakdown of drilling

Thanks, this was a very informative video. Appreciate you.

In Europe, Fisch Black Shark forstner and Wood Owl Overdrive are also available under the brand KWB...or. they are also made for the KWB brand...a bit cheaper...maybe 10-15%🙄 As you recommend, I can only confirm their quality...I literally fell in love with them, and I will buy all the missing sizes...I have almost everything😁 Greetings from Slovenia🇸🇮

Good set of Carbide Forstner bits off Amazon or eBay are recommended in my opinion

The Freud and fisch bits appear to be identical. At least in the sizes where I have both brands. I don't have a complete set of the Freud bits but the few I have are the same as the Fisch.

I just use carbide then never worry about sharpening My quarter inch I've used for years I've never replaced and it's still sharp as a razor

One thing you could illustrate is eliminating tearout by backing up the board with a piece of scrap.

good reveive on bits thank tou

I miss my old metal drill bit box. I wonder if you can still get them. I've started putting my drill bits in the plastic case upside down, so I don't feel like I'm going to cut my finger getting one out. Also, they grip less and pull out easier.

I use forsner bits and hole saws more than just about any other in the projectors that I do. I cut a lot of wheels for simple toy cars and I make slot of candle holders so these tend to be my go to bits. I may have to try the Owl bits though. I do find that sometimes for the candle holders that use taper candles that a spade point point but can be very useful to hog out the bulk of hole and then follow up with the forsner bit to clean up the hole.

I had the wood owl set saved on Amazon.. now its not there... can't wait for Christmas. Im giddy like a chubby kid waiting for birthday cake.