I like it too. I have since put a sniper on the scout but plan on putting the AVS2 on the Bronco.

I have an AVS2 1906 on a FE390 with RV cam on F250. It's given me the best mileage yet out of a Quadrajet and a 1406 Edelbrock 600 cfm. I got 8.5 in town on the Q-jet. The 1406 gave me about 9.25. The 1906 gives me about 9.75mpg in town. It does much better on the highway. Almost 14mpg. I wish I could get it over 10 mpg in town but I'm thinking I'll need to get my cam degree to zero. There is only one set of timing marks on the chain sprockets but since the cam was installed 30 years ago, I'm inclined to think it's ground as much as 9° retard. I'm thinking that cam may be making it suck alot of air because I'm in process of tuning it. I get a stumble mid range RPM. I'm having trouble with it running bad after I let it set then start warm in really hot weather above 88°F, so I'm inclined to think I'm having too much heat trapped in the bowl and it could be trying to boil. I put in a 37x65 meter rod down from the stock 37x70. It ran better until I restarted it on a hot day and it just ran crappy and stumbled all over the place. I'm waiting for the weather to cool so I can do more tuning and eliminate the potential boiling issue.

⁠@@stephensaasen8589did you add .5 to 1 inch spacer so carb is not touching the intake which may boil your fuel? Also try drilling a 1/8 holes in your main primary butterflies to draw in more air during idle for better mixture during idle.

Old school timing trick I use is, without the light, just use vacuum gauge, advance the distributor to the highest vacuum, retard about 1hg vacuum, set idle mixture to highest vacuum, than back off on idle a little, look at the timing. This way you know you are getting the most volume in cylinder. Go for a drive, open her up, if pings, back off on timing about 2 degrees, set mixture, set idle, try again. Anyone with cam, you should drill two 3/32 or 1/8 holes in the primary for more air during idle. It does not hurt anything and mixture screw will respond better.

@@Faith0929ROK yes. I have the original Ford spacer. I bypassed the heater hose that usually runs coolant through the spacer to warm it up. I even added to that the very thick quarter inch insulating gasket. A friend of mine thinks I might have a fuel pressure issue since they seem to like 5lbs.

Did you get it to run well? Our AVS2 always comes out of tune as soon as I floor it a little

Thanks Johnny!

@@MattsGarage 😁👍

I did the same thing I swapped out the original 76cc smoggier heads for 64cc vortec plus a lunati cam. The motor is much healthier now

Also installed steel roller rocker arms, 5.1, stock ratio. Currently using 75-42 rods with 401 jet on the primary, secondary was leaned out with 0.092, which is a 392 jet. My idle mixture screw’s are out 3/4 turn. Also 1 step stiffer on springs which makes the secondary part of the rods starting to kick in at around 7 inches of vacuum. I installed an AEW air/fuel ratio gauge to help me to get to this combination. WOT I’m around 11.5 when I first get on it, then it leans out closer to 12.5. My idle vacuum is around 15 after warmed up and idle mixture screws, again, at 3/4 turn out, which mak s my AFR around 13.5, give or take. Also I’m running a Weind aluminum intake, factory HEI Chevy distributor, which is a Chinese made one. Word of advice, replace the magnetic pickup coil and the ignition module with a good quality one, preferably factory GM parts. The Chinese electronics on them are junk. I had a MSD Street Fire ignition control box installed, which eliminates the ignition module in the distributor, but had an issue with a hole burned through the rotor cap, thus grounding it out on the distributor shaft, = truck wouldn’t run or bad miss. Bad miss, failure to run first happened with the coil, then the pickup module. Lesson learned on E Bay parts not being American made. Anyways, like everyone else, I continuously experimented with different combinations, springs, jets, metering rods, trying to get the AFR readings that I was looking for, finally setting on the combination previously mentioned. If your battling with tuning a carb, best tools to have is a vacuum gauge, and by all means, an AFR gauge, a broad band one. Hope this helped anyone.

@@stanriley2020 what kind of cam did you get from Summit name brand? And do they work fine?

I agree with you.

I never needed one back in the day...they didnt really exist.

Great question and I don’t want to pretend to know the answer. I will guess though: not necessarily because of the high torque of the motor it may not drop vacuum as much as it’s wimpy small buck cousin. You’ll have to trial and error is my opinion. It’s easy though. 10 minutes if you take a coffee break.

Thanks for the video I have a 71 Bronco 302 with an Edelbrock 1406 and have had the same issues for 20 years After changing carbs 3 times 2 distributors and cam I was thinking it was a bad engine I am going to rebuild the carb and change the springs today I’ll let you know how it goes

@@broncobrady3121 please do! Feel free to email me at Mattsgarageshow@gmail.com

Pulled my 800AVS2 out of the box. 1 mixture screw was 1 3/8 turns, the other was 3 1/2 turns out. The air door was set up w 2 1/2 turn preload and the manual stated 1 1/2 is the default. I had a feeling to check it. The floats were spot on.

@@tomreyn3610 I bought mine 4 years ago when they first came out. The screws and door were as per spec. Never checked the floats but I have no reason to believe they're off. I don't doubt there are quality issues everywhere these days. I think they only had 1 or 2 sizes when I bought mine.

Sorry for the late reply. They definilety helped but still not perfect. Will need to keep tuning it but it's slated for being put on the 302 for the Bronco.

@@MattsGarage all good. Nice! I ended up putting the 7hg springs. Readjusting the AVS2 secondary flap tension and increasing the pump shot up to the highest level and it doesn't stumble anymore. Only now it's less fuel efficient as a daily hahaha

@@hoscba on the 1906 I've been having really good luck adjusting the spring tension on the secondary flap. Each time I tighten it it gets better. Still in the process of getting rid of that stumble altogether. The air is rushing in faster than the fuel. Seems kind of absurd but taking some air out of the equation will actually help this issue. T15 torx to loosen the lock screw, big flat head. Counter clock wise is tighter, clockwise is looser.

I have since switched to Sniper on the Scout. This carb will go on the bronco and I’ll tune it to that 302.

I still get lost myself. If it’s rich cold then that probably means your choke is too aggressive. It’s reducing air to make the carb richer (therefore happier) when it’s cold. If it’s set too aggressive then you get very rich.

Been there. That's super frustrating. It's probably something simple you'd never think of. Good luck getting it figured out.

@@MattsGarage it was all the distributor. it was arcing inside from carbon dust for some reason the carbon button was wearing very fast and raining carbon dust. unreal. also alot of timing chain slop but 100% the distributor. also new rotors are coming with the conductor tip bent up to the sky and too far away from the contacts.

@@1112223333111 That’s why they say 70% of carburetor problems are ignition problems. Glad you got it figured out

I took it off road once before I switched to Sniper EFI (always the plan). It ran fine generally but it gets really rich at altitude. I didn’t do any super extreme off camber, but it never stalled on my. Again, just super rich at altitude. That’s the main prob with carbs in general off-road in the mountains.

you would need the 1916 vs 1906 for off road

@@MattsGarage you would need the 1916 vs 1906 for off road

No, I put a sniper on the Scout. I plan on running this carb on the Bronco though and will be tuninig using an O2 sensor. I'll try to make a video about that but it won't be for a while. I'm still in paint and body.

That sounds like timing or do you have your vacuum advance on manifold vacuum? I’ve struggled with that too and it was a combination of timing, vacuum and the idle mixture screws.

Hi Tom. I used a Tanks In. PA-2 in tank pump. The regulator is just a standard Holley carburetor regulator. It's a simple system. The work is just getting the tank retrofitted safely for the pump. I'll have a similar set up on the Bronco which I will show in an upcoming episode in the next month or so.

What do you mean? Are you asking what vacuum advance is? That’s a complicated answer, but basically when you have high vacuum, it pulls an armature in your distributor that advances the timing by some amount. Usually it adds 10 degrees of timing. If that doesn’t make sense I suggest watching some basic videos on timing advance.

You need to go back to the beginning of studying the basics to understand vacuum etc.

650. It’s too much carb

@@MattsGarage sorry you did say that real quick at the beginning, I just missed it. I promise its not too much carb. Not sure your cam specs but I have a 350 with ZZ4 cam (208/221) and Fast Burn heads which are a little step up from stock Vortecs. I had same issues and I found those pops to be rich spots not lean spots. Get the accelerator plunger out of an 800 it has a stiffer spring and put that in. Try going leaner on the pump shot as well after you swap that accelerator plunger. Its hard to discern a lean bog from a rich bog because too much fuel will choke the engine. You are on the right track, 100% get an AFR gauge totally necessary and takes the guesswork out and will show you the difference between a rich and lean bog. I have mine running 14.0 idle about 13.8-14.0 cruise and 12.8 WOT. Totally doable but get that AFR Guage in there so you don't pull your hair out. Let me know if I can help you any - this carb is outstanding once you dial it in. I ripped out my MSD Atomic EFI and the car has never run better.

@@michaelcannizzo1076 great tips. I’ve since out on a sniper (haven’t done a video on it yet) but I’ll keep your notes for the next thing I put the carb on.

@@MattsGarage Good luck with the Sniper. I'm sure its good, but it didn't work for me. I went from the MSD to Sniper before I swapped in the AVS 2 650. Holley threw their hands up - could not get the car to idle right and could not get it to run right, its almost like it wasn't reading the distributor. Between sending in data logs, waiting for call backs, chasing them down it drove me nuts when all I wanted to do was just drive the car. Hope it works for you, its a pain to troubleshoot and work on when the stars don't just align.

@@michaelcannizzo1076 that sucks! Mine works great