Thank you. I've had dozen of guys have great luck with it. I bought the stage 5 Elka's and the regret and disappointment had been immense. The front are nice but my rear ride like a lumber wagon. Ain't much if any better than stock once the stock are adjusted properly. I've had several guys message me with the same issues with the Elka's.

There's a lot of variables that come in to play. One size doesn't fit all, for sure. Weight is a huge factor on the preload. There's tons of adjust, the bad is that it's only roughly 10" of travel.

NP. Good luck.

You are welcome. I felt with so many machines out there, I'd share what I learned over a long frustrating process.

Thanks my Arctic friend! I think it's going to help a lot of guys who were like me looking for not only how, but "why" You adjust all of these.

Yeah that's great info. The tender spring isn't even close to what it should be. I ordered elka stage 5s and have nothing but regret with them. I wish I would've pursued changing the springs on the stock ones, because I really feel like I've wasted $3,500.

@@ironheadbiker I looked at Elka and it would have costed me more for the shocks than I paid for the vehicle so I went with a cheaper alternative. Took it for it's first ride today and it was Fantastic!

This should get you close. Thank you

@@ironheadbiker no thank you I was getting close to calling dealer to figure out the shocks until I saw ur video.

Well you're welcome. Don't forget the air pressure 1st. Yeah it's crazy and overwhelming coming from a mono shock on my old uforce and ranger before that, to these shocks.

U know if it’s same on the 2023 cos I have blue and red knobs for high n low

Mine is a 2023, so I'm sure they're the same. They'll be marked hs and ls.

So your bottom should be your rebound, and your top will be just basic compression dampening. Still counterclockwise for softer, clockwise for stiffer.

I was able to reach everything from the floor underneath. And yes, the low speed affects more than you would think as well. Also with the side to side wandering, don't be afraid to run in for wheel drive. With both rear tires locked in, as soon as they spin, they want to "pass", skidding or spinning tires will choose a side because they're faster than a tire that's got traction. You'll be amazed at the control you gain in having the 4x4 in. Think rally car. As your rear tires spin the front will pull you to keep you straight.

It can been done on the machine, but tricky. I took mine off, just a bolt on top and bottom. Lift the machine and get the weight off. You need good spanner wrenches, not the cheap tool kit one. I used a ratchet strap to compress the spring to take the pressure off of the top retaining nut. Clean the threads as best you can, loosen the locking nut and then spin the lower nut down. Measure the lowest part of the nut to the top of the spring to make sure both sides get adjusted the same. It can be done on the machine, but it's tough to get a wrench up in there. If you try to do it while it's on the machine, put the ratchet strap on the springs while it's sitting on the ground, then when you lift the machine, the tension will already be relieved. When you release the ratchet, make sure the spring is seated properly in the stopper nut.