Love the dialogue with yourself. AMC - All Mistakes Combined!

Hi...referring to the timing chain tensioner (at around 36 min on video)…it should stay in unlocked (lever at 6 oclock position) to provide constant tension on chain. The procedure us: 1. Unlock tensioner (mover lever to 6 oclock poisiton 1. slide tension block towards tensioner lever to compress spring 3. lock tensioner by moving lever to 3 oclock position 4. Unlock lever (after chain has been positioned (this will free up tensioner block to allow it to press against chain and provide constant pressure...as chain stretches over time...since it isn't "locked" into place...will compensate for varying slackness in chain. If its locked, and as chain develops play in time...will not be able to adjust to sloppiness...since its "locked" in place. Hopes this helps.

"See the sparkely sparkles? Yes, yes, the metal fairy has visited, and she has brought with her the gift of destruction.". Best line ever!

I truly appreciate your air pressure leak checks at 32:40 minutes, that is priceless! Checking for ring leaks, intake and exhaust valve leaks.

Just learned from an old-timer today, a lifetime hydraulic motor mechanic, that the YJ 2.5 uses vacumn lines to dictate EGR action and if you have a leak it can cause timing advance and high RPM's at idle. Mine was running 1400 and now it's at 1100 and sounds normal since I grabbed my $30 EGR I got off ebay and twisted the top so the vacumn hose fitting with the pin hole faced 180 degrees from how it came out of the box and could go in the little tube , now, Jeep Gremlins are all gone. So happy. I had replaced the ignition coil, O2 sensor, plugs wires rotor cap, coolant sensor, flushed the throttle body with misting of water to clear out most of the soot (but maybe plugged the EGR the rest of the way). EGR replacement stopped the "dieseling" and it now runs lower idle on cold start up where it did run high, and it no longer chugs in start of each gear when cold mornings, it is smoother, not 100% smooth, maybe 99.

Sounds like Peter Parker lol , however this is by far one of the best tutorial videos I’ve seen. Straight to the point . Thanks I enjoyed this video bro helped me out a lot

I love this video, it makes me happy

Ur vid is great brother life is hard enough glad you keep it light

On the puller, turn it around so the washers and bolts sit flat and not on the curved side. This will also help keep the bolts straight when pulling. Just a tip!

Been looking forward to this video, thanks! That's definitely going to be helpful here soon.

There should be a special place in hell for automotive engineers and their their corporate bosses.

At 18.34 he starts to talk about position of tensioner lever. This lever should be in unlocked position (facing down)when chain instal is completed. This is from manual Turn the tensioner lever to the unlocked (down) position Loading Timing Chain Tensioner Pull the tensioner block toward the tensioner lever to compress the spring. Hold the block and turn the tensioner lever to the lock position Loading Timing Chain Tensioner Apply Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant to the keyway in the crankshaft and insert the key. With the key in the crankshaft keyway, install the crankshaft, camshaft sprockets and timing chain. Ensure the timing marks on the sprockets are properly aligned Crankshaft - Camshaft Alignment Install the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt and washer. Tighten the bolt to 108 N·m (80 ft. lbs.) torque. Turn the chain tensioner lever to the unlocked (down) position Loading Timing Chain Tensioner

Had to do this on my 2.5l '93. Luckily after Renix they made that power steering line long enough to pull the reservoir up. Also, keep up with the 2.5l, I've just about given up on trying to fix mine. It helps to have another perspective

GREAT VIDIO iHOPE YOU STILL DOING THE WORK HELPT ME EAZY TO UNDERESTAND YOU THANKS

Love the prayer!

awesome job figuring o his super obscure problem

6:00 a7x welcome to the family nice you seriously are just like me lol i had to do a brake job on my jeep today and the same exact song played in my list

Your puller is upside down.Good video .you have helped me a lot.

I have said the same prayer over my Cherokee more than once!

I commend you for a job well done!

Great job Nick, keep up the addiction... I mean jeep thing =P

I like how the video starts like a “previously on .....”

Haha that washer on the balencer got me on my 97 tj... ended up cracking and breaking.. so much cuss words spoken

Love the video.

Great video, thanks!

And now for a little prayer “start motherfucker start”😂😂

When I did the harmonic balancer on my Renix 4.0, I had enough clearance for my snapon harmonic puller that I didn't need to pull the rad. Also the same with my friends HO 4.0

Dang dude. Love your videos. really do love your videos. I mean I need a laugh just like the next guy. No just kidding good videos but as a mechanic, and yes I do call myself a professional. I got to help a bit. First loosening the crank bolt. Just use the starter. attach the socket with the extension place on top of the frame disconnect coil and crank the engine for a second and wala loose bold. because sometimes there really really tight, and this way it doesn't matter if its manual or automatic Next just get a shorter center puller bold so you don't need to remove the radiator next time. and there will be a next time!. next yes there is a next. use RED Loctite or permenent on internal engine parts because blue is temporary or medium strength. Next Black RTV sucks, it separates during the torque application, breaks off and lodges in the oil pickup screen. Use Ultra grey Permotex or Honda bond. It never separates from itself great stuff. and it seals like no other. Other then that your golden but dang dude clean that engine bay. It's totally embarrassing. I couldn't sleep at night knowing that was under my hood. 89 Comanche 4.0. 59 Ranbler American 2dr S/W 2.5 Jeep 700R4. Ow just a secret between you and me. shoooo A 60deg 700R4 trans from a 2.8 chevy will bolt rate up to a AMC/JEEP built 2.5, I'm not talking Iron Duke but the AMC built one. The AMC 2.5 Used the same bellhousing design of the iron duke.

before you start tearing every thing apart, to check the timing chain pull the plugs put your 3/4 socket on your favorite breaker bar and turn the crank to TDC, if you can rock the bar back and forth more then an inch the marks dont move around and you dont see any movement on the distributor the timing chain is worn, the timing chain tensionor can be removed without dropping the pan just stuff a clean rag under everything and remove the c-clip that holds that cheap ass tensionor in place, the other deal is to use a straight edge when lining up dot to to dot, on both bolt head surfaces, , one tooth off is around five degrees even though they look lined up, my main problem with sensors is the guy that owned it before me didnt have a clue the sensors wouldnt work right because the thermostate was removed, my compression is 170 across the board and vacuum is just a hair under 18 I live at 3200 ft. Ive noticed the six bangers have a trustt washer on the cam cover to keep it from walking the 2.5 dosent, im asumming lifter off set makes em spin plus hold the cam in place like GM

GLADIATOR GRANDADDY!

well may be some overheating or the pin failure per se could burn the valve. OTC has a leak detector.

Hi. good video. I was thinking if the tension pin was broke it may cause a bend valve, for interference perhaps. Sorry for my english i'm from Venezuela.

It would be interesting to see the compression after a fresh oil change and you put a couple hundred miles on it

hey i forgot. Nice truck, good material for a project.

I saw the screw too. It killed me. I was screaming at my phone,PICK THAT SCREW UP MAN!!! Lmao

That alternator has been relocated what serpentine belt are you using to make it work

Hi Nick. I have a Dakota with the same engine... No tachometer like this Jeep either... Do you have any pointers on how to hook up that aftermarket tach for the 2.5L engine?

HAhaha, oh, man, a GIANT friqqin washah just sitting on the hub! What can you say?

Cylinder 2 seems a bit low on compression. 3&4 are fairly normal. They way that engine sounded to me indicates rod bearing wear. Difficult to tell when not there in person. Interesting to watch as I haven't pulled apart my 2.5L. Only the 4.0.

Someone's an AvE fan

Hey man where do you wheel in NJ? I live in south NJ got a 2.5TJ and a 4.0XJ also love your main video on your page that shows all your mods and such that's neat man.

Is this a common problem with these motors. I just bought a 85 Cherokee havin the same issue and this is the direction I’m leanin on what it’s gonna take to fix mine

I just replaced the piston rings on my 91 wrangler 2.5L and now I’m not getting spark ⚡️. I wonder if I need to trouble shoot mine this way.

My camshaft sprocket gets impacted to the camshaft when I torque it to spec and the camshaft comes pull loose. Should I torque it much lower than spec?

Why does he put. It in 4th gear?. How cud u turn crank if u do that?

That stupid alignment pin is nothing but trouble. My '91 MJ 4.0L has a similar hollow pin on the camshaft. Why didn't they just make the sprocket keyed to the shaft?

You are wise to replace every seal you can. The sleeve might be for knocking the seal in.

Was I hearing Tool in the background?

so my timing marks dont line up on the compression stroke only on the exhaust stroke and on the compression tdc its a 180 degrees out on my cam so would i take the chain off an turn the cam to realign with the original setting cuz i reacently had some timing issues and im pretty sure its been jumpin this whole time i just got my new gears and chain some tips or advice would be greatly appreciated before i take the old gears off

Roll pins are your early warning system. They break before the other components do. Should have gone with the roll pin.

"Sealify!"

im just watching it! today can i know whats its knoking? mine do the same and i was already open the timing chain case but its just a litlle play... doest will stop the knocking? thx

love the AvE references

Dad-gum bruh, I would cry iffin I saw that on my engine (13:00-14:04) EIEIO - and broken was his name-0

Damn it’s almost as crusty as the abused tbi jasper in my YJ

the chain is shot, the key way is on tdc, the tensionor is worn also, your lucky the valves didnt contact the pistons, you should use a solid pin, the pin should be flush, on the gear or the washer wont clamp, that spring deal your talking about is a cam button to keep the cam from walking, by the way if you buy a cloyes timing set its made in China but boxed in the US, but for all that work you should have replaced the chain and gears, I can tell you just by looking a new chain wont have the tensionor out that far, you are due for a new chain

Could have bought a shorter bolt with the correct threads grind a point on it hind sight 2020

Washer motor please

Complimentary donuts??

It's probably not supposed to have a roll pin there in the first place.

Sounds like you need piston rings and head job on this engine.

pull the distributor and turn it

LOL you and your madness, "seal" hmm LOL. Pity that puller didnt come with a shorter bolt, im sure they did that on purpose to stop you :). That 90 psi cylinder is a bit worrying. And that tiny farty pin is the only thing that locates the timing cog, frightening. Is it possible that one valve tapped the piston and bent the valve a tiny bit so it dont close correctly? maybe ??

Pull the cyl head off.. A head gasket is bad psi 1-2 cyl. low psi or valves or both...

So you didn't torque down the timing chain cover ,here comes a leak

Hondas don’t go rock crawling

replace the bolt

German ans Canadian accents

is there any significance to to frequent, annoying, German accent ? other than that great vid.

It's alive,well sorta.There is a long screw on the ground in front of the right rear tire.I would'nt want you to run it over and ruin your day my friend.