Do it

Hope it helps! Have fun and be safe, if you have any questions just message me

@@bpbrestorations2093 I have a few welding buddy's, but not sure they have welded on anything as thin as 18. Would a 120v welder do it, or do you recommend a 230v?

120 would do it, but you must have shielding gas

Thanks buddy!!

@@bpbrestorations2093 what's up man? I have a 1988 get with the same issues. Would you be willing to do the job if I bring the car to you? I'm from Michigan and I am willing to bring it and come back to get it.

Yes that is something we can do for you, I am scheduling out about 6 months right now so it would probably be this fall before we could get to it.

Glad we can help you out buddy! Hit me up if you need anything!

@@bpbrestorations2093 Where could I contact you? I have a few questions regarding my car

@@sav22rem22 cbuckner0859@gmail.com

There are delivery companies, we have worked with a couple. 😉

You can do it

My pleasure! Thanks!

Thanks

Thanks for the feedback! Glad you liked it!

Thanks Tom

Thank you

@bigoldavey used this method for over 15 years and they are still going strong. Never had an issue ever.

Thanks Frank

Thanks

Yes

Yes we always pull both motor and trans, way easier and more room. Yes we welded the tubes.

@@bpbrestorations2093thanks for the reply sir !! Time to get to work !

You don't have to take them off but it makes it 99% easier and the whole dog house of these cars comes off with just a few bolts

Was told years ago ford used salt water to clean their dies and tools when making parts. Not sure really but they definitely All do it, even done one a while back the guy claimed it has been garaged since new and it literally looked like a brand new car inside and out except for the driver tower.

I have seen it done both ways and both looked good and functioned properly. We have only done it with sheet metal just to make it more of a "factory" looking repair.

The front end in fact did drop slightly. I didnt talk about it much, but it was smashed in the driver side front 15 years ago and a terrible repair was done and they didnt straighten anything. It actually needed brought back down close to 3/8 inch to be like the other side. I didnt really want to complicate things in the video because most of yall repairing the rust wont have the accident damage to worry about. And yes galvanized is bad dont breath it! Thanks for watching!

Couldn't hurt to reprime, and if I am thinking of the same thing you are yes there should be a slight gap there

@@bpbrestorations2093 Cool Thanks that's what I was thinking.

I am no professional welder, if its learning how to weld or setting it up for sheet metal check out the youtuber Fitzees Fabrications. He has a very nice video on setting up your mig. If you have any questions feel free to hit me up.

Honestly I dont have much experience flux core welding at all. I believe it probably can be done. Just set you up a test panel and try to butt weld them together and make a bunch of practice welds until you feel like you have the welder set for that gauge you are using. Then give it a shot and if you need any advice on welder setup hit up Fitzees Fabrication on here he has a great video explaining it!

No. Everything has to come out to do it properly. The k member bolts thru the rotted area.

I'd have to see pics, may better/cheaper to throw a tube front end on it

If it comes to us as a roller roughly 4500 for the complete job, if we have to pull engine and trans it's roughly 5800-6000

Roughly $4500

@@bpbrestorations2093 wow ! Thanks

Where are you located

@@josephsaia6696 Tipton, Indiana

18

@@bpbrestorations2093 thank you !

No problem

About 25 hours

You are not wrong

Make sure you use the same gauge metal as what the car is built with. If you go heavier the car may not safety fold if it were in an accident

Yoooooo! I can't do it bro. It's for my calypso gt that I just finished.

If we pull motor and trans and reinstall when complete it's roughly $4500-$4800 for the whole job.

Getting everything out of the way is the biggest hassle.

Guaranteed

We are around $4500. Othe shops I have heard 5-6k. Someone else on here was quoted 5k out near PA the other day.

@@bpbrestorations2093you know anyone in California that can do it? If not where are you located? I might be willing to have you do it since you have experience with it.

No I don't know any shops out there sorry

We see in Tipton, Indiana

18

Tipton, Indiana

You couldn't do it right with the engine in. 18 gauge and I believe 3/4 tubing. Or what ever size the k member bolts are.

@@bpbrestorations2093 mine isnt rusted threw it starting fmto rot from inside and i want to see if i could do it from the ouside and stick weld a piece to the inner wall followed by recreating the tubes

Not saying you couldn't but I wouldn't, especially with a stick welder and sheet.

@@bpbrestorations2093 do you have a email i coukd send pics to... Im wayy in Alabama.. I was thinking of just using some rust encapsulator and call it a day

Cbuckner0859@gmail.com

Just frame rails and shock towers is generally in the $1500-$1800 range

BPB Restorations Nice, that’s reasonable. I’m looking at a 91 notch right now and the only real rust issue it’s got is the strut towers. But they’re no where near as bad as the one’s on the car in your video.

Email at cbuckner0859@gmail.com, or text 7654803185 for quickest response

Not if you dont mind traveling. We are located in Tipton, Indiana

Probably

I'm not saying it can not be done that way. But in my honest opinion in order to do it right and to get it welded solid the engine really needs pulled. It's not too hard, just nuts and bolts. Sometimes if you look you can find a local shop willing to pull it out for you and reinstall after you are done with the rust repair, for a small fee.

@@bpbrestorations2093 I appreciate the response, I just picked up an 88 the passenger side is perfect the driver side is solid except the line on the seam where you initially cut that part out, it’s crusty and rotted just on that seam in a perfect line. It looks like if I can clean it up I should be able to get a good weld bead on it. I didn’t want to have to pull everything if I didn’t have to. Do I just unplug the battery and grind the welder to the frame? I never welded on a car before so I’m not sure the precautions to take.I don’t want you Fry anything.

Yes, just disconnect your battery and pull it out. Grind an area clean around your work area to ground too, and you are set. Cover your windshield and anything near you dont want hot spatter on.

@@bpbrestorations2093 thanks again brother, I also subscribed ✌️🇺🇸

Thanks bro!

BPB Restorations on Facebook if you have it. Or email cbuckner0859@gmail.com

Its hard to say. I've drove them for years rusted out. Never really had one fall apart because of it. I would say if it's still some what solid and your k member is solid to drive it for a couple months no problem. But no hole shots or racing of course.

@@bpbrestorations2093 cool, thank you!

Tipton, Indiana

Tipton, Indiana

I have never had a foxbody rotted enough that it needed braced, there is usually plenty of good material holding it together. Convertibles and anything without a subframe definitely gets a little bracing.

@@bpbrestorations2093 I figured if the k member, inner amd outer fenders and grille support removed plus then cutting out rotten section there might not be anything to keep front rails together

Scott rod panels?

Roughly 40 hours total

@@bpbrestorations2093 40 for both sides or just one side?

40 hours total roughly from start to finish without paint work