There could have been a few i left out but for the most part, it should all be there. Cheers

Wow you make older adults look bad Soy if you have your son doing this job. Thats what up

These cars are solid. Cheers

Thank you. I wish i did a video of before when i first got this car vs. Now. It was trash when i got it. Cheers.

@@PeterZafra Funny enough I'm in the same position mate. Bought the car and Ive never seen something so dirty before. Was a pain in the ass but slowing cleaning and fixing everything. Just done my valve covers and now I'm worrying about the timing belt. 🤣

@@JacksonAndLouane Yup same here. I paid 1800. 135k miles. One thing at a time with me..First Job is changing the valve cover gasket.

Cheers to another 500k plus miles.

Yup, I did the notches on the timing gear and case without needing the cover and crank pulley on. Way easier.

@@videoswitch video

@@califabear40 kzfaq.info/get/bejne/p8eSmspqqeC9aas.html

Awesome. Glad i helped. Cheers!!!!!

Cheers.

Thank you. I just like to take great care of my things. Cheers

@@PeterZafra it is a good car worth upkeeping. Those engines from those years are the epitome of reliability. They are easy to work having easy access to the starter and timing belt if needed to be replaced.

Thanks for the feed back. Cheers

True that bro. Yes. I totally agree

mine leaks like a siv

Oil seals do go bad. Try some at-205. Stopped mine from leaking. Restored the rubber rear main. But mine wasnt severely leaking...have to maintain any vehicle for it to function properly

@@wildchild1161 . There's a mystery leak on the right hand side of the valve cover, is hidden by the bracket that holds the ignition coil, get a flashlight and if you see a paddle of oil on top of the transmission, just go under the car and look for the ignition coils,if they're wet that means that is coming from there, I'm on my second 1998 Camry 4cyl. And this is how I fix, remove the fat air intake hose, and a few vacuum hoses just keep track of everything you remove you might also have to partially remove the throttle body, so you can have access to the bracket bolt on the right side, once you remove the ignition coil bracket you'll see like a round seal and if is all oily that is one of your problems, anyways get some brake cleaner and clean it dry also scrape off any old gasket material with a blade carefully, get some permatex ultra black gasket maker is very cheap at Walmart carefully apply the sealant around the leaky seal, apply enough of it but don't overdo it, wait a half hour to let it dry, put everything back together, give it at least 20 hours so it cures before you drive the car again, I've this procedure twice and it has worked to perfection, now if you have the V6 engine I'm not familiar with that one, but if you have a 4 cylinder like mine that's one leak you can fix yourself, another big leak is the seal and the spider web gasket inside the oil pump housing, but is better to wait until you do a timing belt replacement job, there's videos on KZfaq on how to replace them the cam and crankshaft are also fairly easy, for the rear main seal, just get some at-205 reseal,it works pretty well, is better than separating the transmission from the engine to get to it, the rear main seal is kind of big so at 205 reseal will easily renew it again making it more pliable and flexible stopping the leak, I used it on my 98 Camry and it did stop the leak it was pretty small but I hate oil leaks I'm just glad that on this 4th generation Toyota Camry 4cyl. 5sfe engine, I practically know most of the common issues and how to fix them, is very easy and cheap to maintain and the best thing is that is very reliable very few problems .

600$ just to replace the water pump and the timing belt

Cheers

Haha Yeah man. My ocd won't allow me. Until today it still looks like that.

Sorry.

Hey Lilyan page if you really need to see it all this may help kzfaq.info/get/bejne/aNGBf7CBnqe9d6c.html

Yes, for sure Lilyan page, that's what I thought.

Probably because he doesn't have 4 arms

Thank you. Cheers

Nice. Yes. Mechanics will always push for water pump replacement. These are great cars. Cheers

Get it fixed and that engine will last forever. Cheers

Cheers

Thank you. I try my best to keep the heart clean.

I’m gonna clean mines too.

Cheers

Cheers kababayan

Gibran Carrillo thank you. Cheers

It's not bad at all. Cheers

Cheers

Cheers

These cars are solid cheers

Shepherds chapel

Glad it helped. Cheers

It's actually not that hard. Just make sure you mark the belts so you can replace in the same spot. Mark old belts while still on the gears with some white out or paint. Then once removed, mark the new belt exactly like the old belt while next to each other so you will know its exactly the same teeth. Other than that, other ones just bolt on. Cheers

Thank you. Cheers

These things happen. You may have also had an air bubble in the system that created pressure and resulted in a crack. Especially if the radiator is old. They usually last 7 to 10 years. Anything longer is a bonus.

No it won't. That's the beauty of a non interference engine. You can remove a spark plug to make turning the crank easier. Cheers

Thank you for the view. Next time will show routing. Cheers

@@PeterZafra thanks. It was very helpful.

The belts if done right are good for 100k miles. I would say change at 90k and use only toyota oem parts

Thank you!!!

Cheers

That was an added wire I installed years ago. It actually goes down to the radiator support that connect to another wire to the battery

Thank you. Cheers

Gotta Tinker33 this specific car is not very hard. You can do it!!!! Cheers.

I am not sure about that. Just use the markers. It's the best bet. Also, if you want to set to tdc, you can mark the inside when it's tdc on the cover so you wouldn't need to set to tdc with the cover on again.

You would need to use a tdc peg to find exact tdc. Assuming these engines have one. You remove a bolt, insert the peg and turn crank by hand until it comes in contact and is stopped by peg.

There is a Scotty Kilmore video showing where to mark points on the belt track when changing the belt if you are still looking for DIY.

I don't quite remember, but it's not a hard job if you are a little mechanically inclined. I would suggest changing the kit not just the belt.

Man that's what i said. But....it was only 51k miles if that and only 4 years old. Crazy aftermarket stuff. Thanks for the sub and the view. Cheers

I suggest change the belts along with water pump and oil pump and all seals. The fluid leak could be from the weep hole on your water pump or the water pump itself. Trace back to see if you can locate and pinpoint leak. (Weep hole is on the water pump itself. Its a tiny hole above the pump. Follow the radiator hose where it connects to the passenger side of the engine). I used simple green to clean my engine. You can watch that video in my channel. "Easy engine clean "

Just glad it's a non interference engine. Cheers

K B keep in mind, you need to turn 4 full times to get a full rotation. Then check tdc

You want the top crank and harmonic balancer at tdc before installing belt and tightening. Then rotate 4 full times and check to make sure it's still at tdc top and bottom.

Peter Zafra so as long as the top markers for the cam after 4 turns and looks good.then I can tighten the bottom bolt. so when tightening it at bottom how do you keep the the balancer from rotating as you torque it.?

Yes. Found that out afterwards. Thank you for the input. Cheers.

It will align at TDC on the cover when you spin the crank. It's 4 full turns and it's at TDC. I took off one spark plug to make it easier to turn. That is why I put the cover to see TDC but it is also marked on the crank.

@@PeterZafra Cam and Crank should align every two full turns on the crankshaft, hence the 2 stroke engine. I was just curious as the alignments are a different story when the belt is still on since two full turns on the crank is 1 full turn on the cam.

I'm glad you ended up with a camry. The most dependable engine in my opinion. Be ready for a very long journey with your car. Cheers

Depending on the year of your sportage, a 2001 kia sportage i believe is an INTERFERENCE engine. I'm not 100% sure but pretty sure it is.

K B I used a breaker bar. Then used an electric impact wrench

mine is a 01 5SFE. i used Toyota OEM. The one that broke was a gates.

Thanks for the input. Cheers

@@PeterZafra even with all new parts the timing belt tensioner will max out. I worked for Toyota for 32+ years. I just fixed a " helicopter " yesterday for a retired gal with almost no money. Fixed her leaking oil seals, water pump, timing belt and tensioner and idler plus the radiator transmission lines that leaked since the installer didn't tighten the radiator fittings enough. Had a trans leak. Trans was low. Also flushed the power steering too. Cleaned all the Rat dropping pressure washing the engine compartment for the sum of 450.00. She's making payments.

@@PeterZafra if you have noise in rear suspension over bumps the rear sway bar mount bushings were a common failure.

Cheers

I agree. Except some people would have caused injuries to themselves by doing what I did since I did the good ole breaker bar and starter technique. Lol.

There should be one on the transmission

@@PeterZafra please where exactly are the transmission?

My car is a 5spd transmission so i get close to 36 on the hwy and 29 in the city mixed with a little hwy. I would bet that your timing is off especially since you said it happened after the belt change. When placed at top dead center TDC, you need rotate the engine 4 times and if it's in the same TDC, then it's good. Other than that, the timing will be off and will cause the engine to run poorly. I hope this helps. Let me know if your able to fix it. Otherwise, check if check engine light is on and see that it's not a bad 02 sensor or catalytic converter. The chances are small that it's coincidence but it could be. Cheers

@@PeterZafra This is sort of a big story, so sorry for that. I had it done at the tech school my wife works at, cause they do it for free and well equiped to do it. I bought the best parts, they installed them. Upon getting car back, I heard belt flapping when cold, but couldn't have them look at it for a few days. Car ran great, tho. Brought it back and explained problem. I also asked the same question I asked you.... is pulley mark vs. cog mark the same? They said yes, they can't see how it'd be different. They removed top t-belt cover and said belt sliped by one tooth b/c student didn't tension the belt properly, so they fixed it, again using pulley mark, not cog mark for crank alignment. End result, car runs great, gas mileage down a bit. I drive 400-500 miles per week, so this is not great. Can't look gift horse in mouth a 2nd time w/o proof pulley and cog marks are different. No one seems to know for sure, not even Toyota web sites. Like no one's ever heard of this before. I believe books say use cog mark. Thanks for listening to me whine. Any suggestions appreciated.

@@PeterZafra Well I had an upstream air/fuel ratio sensor issue right after the belt was reinstalled to correct the timing, but I bought a new OEM f/a sensor and installed it... no change in gas mileage whatsoever and it's fine to this day... no codes. The engine is still running great, infact it's better than ever. Just gas mileage is down. The engine is so zippy that I recently bought a K&N washable air filter and installed NGK Ruthenium spark plugs plugs in it, and it's even more zippy, but still no change in gas mileage

I hear 90k but you change at 60 if you like. I do suggest to use only OEM Toyota belts and parts though.

Which is aisin correct? ​@@PeterZafra

When you try to start it, the engine sounds like it's not cranking like it usually cranks before it starts. You can also unbolt the top side cover of the timing belt on the passenger side of the engine compartment and see if the belt is broken. I hope that's not the case.

People just neglect oil changes and the biggest is the fact that these motors burn oil and people forget to check levels. Missing at idle can be bad plugs or a bad upstream 02 sensor.

@@PeterZafra I only got misfire codes (I forgot to screenshot them but it was one cylinder and one generic like P1300), but it feels fine once driving.

Get it from the Toyota dealership. It's worthit.

Can you help me to do that;because I don't no the original belt

Yes. Very easy

Some people charge double that

No. But....it wouldn't be a bad idea to change it since your already there. I didn't change my water pump this time around.

Liberty you do not need to remove the water pump.

Just order from the dealership directly.

Steven Aldridge the length of the hoses should give you an idea on where it goes. Usually to the egr valve. Let me know of that helps.

This car is a charm. My favorite ever. Plus its a very rare 5 speed manual transmission.

Umm watch the video he starts n runs it @10:45

If you don't have power tools, you can snap the starter with a breaker bar to release the under drive pulley. It is very dangerous and that is why I didn't show it. I'm sure someone online illustrated it but for disclaimer purposes, I didn't show it. Cheers.

At the dealership, you five them your Vin number and they will know which part you need exactly

Where dealership and how please......

Please help me,I changed my timing now almost every two two months intervals I don't want to that car is very good but now almost fed concerning this issue of timing belt,no original belt here

Yes. It would be because these engines are non interference. The valves and pistons will never hit each other.

It is NON INTERFERENCE. Cheers

@@PeterZafra thank u so much 😁.

My car has been running hot but when I drive it. The car cools down now I think the timing belt just snapped

@@unforgettabletarasingh4082 if your timing belt snaps, your car won't run.

Well kinda but it's called a timing belt. It does go through the cam gear so yes but it's called a timing belt

Well, the Asian car makers specify POAT type coolant. I use Honda coolant in my Toyota no problems. As long its the correct formula color does not matter.

I've learned to always go OEM unless of course your whole engine has been modified.

@@PeterZafra The OEM belt is made by Mitsuboshi for Toyota. Toyota uses several parts makers. Gates,Dayco,Bando,etc.

I used a Dayco timing belt on a Toyota before,no problems.

From a stop light once it turned green it snapped.

If u were say going 70 and your belt snapped do you feel your engine would still be ok

@@louismelendrez1589 yes cause it is a non interference engine

Aww man. This video is the best can do. Ha. Hopefully this helps you

3sfe and 5sfe are pretty identical so you should be able to relate. Cheers

@@PeterZafra thanks!.

Your welcome. Cheers

HAHA. glad it all worked out in the end. cheers.

K B I'm in Cali. Way too far. Hehe. You can get the job done I'm sure. Cheers.

Peter Zafra I’m also in Cali. Are you in SoCal?

You will need to remove the crank.

@@PeterZafra I'm sorry what!?

You need to take off the harmonic balancer, the thing below that the alternator and power steering pump belts go around.

3

It's still on my car. Oem is rated at 90k intervals.

The non oem I changed on this video lasted 58k miles only

@@PeterZafra the oem belt i just replaced on my 01 5sfe Camry had 127,000 miles and it still looked good, no cracks. I even folded and squeezed it and it didn't even crack.

I agree and yes. Most mechanics will suggest that as well. What happened is that my old timing belt was an aftermarket (cheap) one that snapped at only 53k miles. I had changed all the other parts when i did the job previously so all those parts had only around 53k miles on it. I really didn't want to change it all again. I personally also have this theory that how come the cars that come with timing chains and not belts hardly ever need the water pump, tensioners, bearings, replaced? That's probably because they really don't need to unless they start a leak. Especially the water pumps. But then again, that is just my thought and opinion. I had a 96 tacoma (chain driven) with 525k miles and never changed the water pump. Just kept up with fresh radiator fluid every 3 years. Cheers.

@@PeterZafra I understand your point. But those parts already had 53k miles at that point. From personal experience, Volvo V70's timing belts rarely fail by themselves. It's actually the bearings in the tensioner pulleys that go bad and cause the belt to skip or walk off the pulley causing catastrophic failure. My point was to change everything. Trying to cheap out on a repair especially on something that is very difficult to access is never a good thing.

Thank you for the input. You should make a detailed video on this job. It would really help a lot of people. Sorry for not being detailed enough. Cheers.

Sure. No problem.

On interference engines, yes. But these Camrys are Non interference so if it snaps, then you just need to change the belt and set to TDC again. Cheers

@@brettduffy1992 I got 315k out of my 1995 Camry, and it never actually died. I just got a 1999 to replace it.

matt geere sorry bro. If anything, remove how I pointed them. I just wanted to avoid such a long video.

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