Beckov (Slovakia) was a “fashionable” crag in the late ’80s and early ’90s. You can see this gigantic 50meter high piece of rock with a well-preserved castle on the top.
In 1994, Tomáš Pilka, nicknamed Svišť (means marmot), bolted the whole line of this overhanging feature, starting from the obvious ledge 20meters above the ground. He gave it a provisional name Dlouhá trasa (Long way).
Last year in June, I checked out the moves in the project. I was blown away by the beauty but could not send it anymore. I returned here after 17 months. In the meantime, Mišo Makušiniec was putting some serious effort into the project. Thanks to Mišo, the project was cleaned, chalked and ready.
The route is now called Absolutorium 9a (first ascent), and it is definitely one of the nicest 9a’s in former Czechoslovakia (Czechia and Slovakia have been separated since 1993). Incredible to vision to bolt this thing 27 years ago.
Timecodes:
00:00 - Intro
00:10 - Richard "Riči" Nyéki - Slovak climbing legend, talks about the project
00:28 - Peter "Becko" Ondrejovič - Slovak climbing legend, talks about the project
00:57 - Adam meets Riči in Beckov (Slovakia)
02:38 - The first Czechoslovak 8b+ - Absolutní vědomí (Absolute consciousness) - Project by Czech climbing legend Tomáš "Svišť" Pilka
03:16 - Access route (7a+) to the starting point of Absolutorium 9a
04:13 - Working out the route
07:16 - The beginning of Absolutorium 9a 20meters above the ground
08:47 - Crux of the route Absolutorium 9a
10:22 - Joining the route Absolutní vědomí 8b+
11:17 - The end of the crux of Absolutní vědomí 8b+
11:18 - Continuation of the Absolutorium 9a (first ascent)
13:31 - The first ascent of route Absolutorium 9a
13:50 - Adam talking about the ascent
14:42 - Richard talking about the project
15:33 - Peter and Adam talking about the supreme vision of the route
16:37 - Richard talking about his climbing goals
17:20 - Outro
Climbing shoes Adam used in this video: La Sportiva Solution
www.lasportiva.com/alpencore/...
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STORY BY
ADAM ONDRA
DIRECTED & EDITED BY
LACO KORBEL
CAMERA
LACO KORBEL
KATEŘINA KUŘÁTKOVÁ
PAVEL BLAŽEK
STILLS PERSONAL ARCHIVE
RICHARD NYÉKI
PRODUCTION
KATEŘINA KUŘÁTKOVÁ
JAN VERNER
JAKUB PÍNA
SUBTITLES BY
JARKA MARČEKOVÁ
EXECUTIVE PRODUCER
PAVEL BLAŽEK
SPECIAL THANKS TO
KÚRIA BECKOV GUESTHOUSE
SONGLIST
Adieu Adieu - Elgar Serenade for Strings Allegro Piacevole
© 2022 AO PRODUCTION S.R.O.
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