Thank you Lars! I’m glad to hear you enjoy my content! 😊

Thank you! I hope to be able to make a few more options for small volumes in the time coming 😊

Thank you so much! 😊

Thank you! 😊

Thank you! This design has included a lot of head scratching and staring into walls trying to come up with solutions! 😁

Thank you! I’m glad to hear you like it! 😊

Thank you Mike!

​@@makerunithe's going to unbox a 3d printer soon 😂

@@patricklebel1141 😂

🥳🥳🥳❤️❤️❤️

Thank you! I’m probably not the first inventor of these techniques but they were a real headic to figure out in the first place 😅 Definitely transferrable to many other applications!

Thank you! I’ve got some ideas in mind for potential APU projects. I’ve got a 5700G myself and a Pico PSU which can be used with it. I was actually experimenting with an APU design using a 200mm fan directly onto a Noctua low profile cooler to make the build super quiet. It required a print volume of about 220x220mm and was never finished/published but I’m considering to go back to it and finish it properly.

@@makerunit I'm about to order an A1 (non mini) during the anniversary sale now so I'll be able to print it. 🤣 It's just baffling how big most commercial itx cases are. Sfx PSU and motherboard and maybe just enough space for a low profile gpu. And since you most likely only use name storage you dont need any mode free space "in th front", so it can be made really short imho. I'll be printing some of your cases for sure in the near future. I really like how you always use m3x10mm when you use screws. Makes it really easy to acquire the needed hardware!

@@GizmoTheGreen My goal is always to make the projects as simple as possible with as many "off the shelf" components as possible. I try my best to avoid "special" parts when I can.

Awesome! Don’t hesitate to ask if you have any questions and I’ll do my best to guide you. 😁

Haha, thank you thank you!

@@makerunit NO, thank you for cool designs.

Thank you so much! The feedback has been great so far so they seem to like it 😁 But I’ll give it a couple weeks for people to start actually building it and then I’m excited to hear the «real» feedback 😊

Thank you! 😊

Thank you! 😊

Thank you! 😊

Thanks! And you’re welcome! My goal is to over time offer a big variety of designs to satisfy any need for most people😊

Thank you! I have considered it! I may do at some point 😊

Hi! Thank you! And you’re actually not too far off to be honest. I’m about to publish a mini ITX 4-bay NAS case 😁 not exactly how you imagined but using some of the same joinery, it’s Ender 3 size friendly, and has some cool little features 😁

You are welcome! 😊

Thank you! 😊

Awesome! 📈

Thank you! 😊

I mean, technically most of the parts are scalable so a mATX case based on the same concept is not impossible!

Thank you! 😊

Thank you! I hope the Little Boy case works out for you! I’d love to see a «Make» if you manage to make it work. (Or just some pictures in general to see how it turned out) 😁

@@makerunitif it out good I will. May I suggest to add to your projects also which print profile settings are you using for your prints? Because apart from the honeycomb effect I've seen in the other video there were other settings I could spot on the screen that were not the standard ones. (like "solid infill threshold area" = 70 )

@@Macs I’m using stock Orca profiles… 😊 only modified infill and wall count, and some other minor changes but I feel like unless you have the exact same printer, with the exact same filament, with the same calibration settings, the settings will be different from printer to printer in my opinion. I have completely different settings for example when printing on my Ender 3 vs. My K1 Max

That’s a good point. If using a 2-slot GPU like me you could probably get away with some slim intake fans at the bottom. I’ll look into it. Thanks! Maybe even an exhaust fan at the top above the CPU cooler.

Yeah I’ve understood that the majority of 3D printer owners do not have access to large print beds making many of my cases a no-go 😅 I’m trying to slowly adapt to what the community wants rather than what’s convenient for myself. Also, I do like a challenge!

Thank you Tim! A design consisting of many smaller panels will lack some of the strength compared to solid panels printed on a larger surface, but to counteract the weakness in the joints I intentionally made sure to interlock the panels in all directions so to be honest I don’t really notice much of those weak points. With the side panels off, I do notice it a little, because there are some pins on the side panels that serve a function in stiffening everything up as well. With all panels in place the overall rigidity feels pretty close to my other cases with bigger one-piece panels. I don’t really see many downsides to using joints compared to screws. Eliminating the need for any special type of screws and inserts makes the build much more appealing too, knowing you could make it all right from home 😁

Thank you! 😁

I do my best to make as many requests as possible come true, but it’s hard to keep up with every single request so I have to filter it down to what projects seem interesting and are highly requested 😁

It’s on my to-do list!

Thank you! 😁

Awesome! Have fun with your new printer! 😊

Thank you! Weight can definitely be cut down a bit, I also used about 5-6 external perimeters for extra strength.

Yes, ASA for example.

PETG should work aswell, and is easier to print than both ABS and ASA imo.

I printed all my parts in PETG, but you can also use ASA and ABS. Detailed information about my printing recommendations can be found on Printables. 😊

@@TheDeantonio At what temperature would PETG deform?

Awesome! I thought when I first have to join panels anyways, I might as well shrink them down to even the smallest printers 😁

Thank you! 😊

The new 8700G APU from AMD looks very promising! I’m considering to get one, but that would also mean I’d need a AM5 motherboard, DDR5 ram and more, so I’ll wait a bit to see how it performs to see if I can justify getting one 😁

@@makerunit I was thinking the same thing. I currently run Linux on my main machine but still need a Windows box at home so I have a mini PC just for windows stuff but I'm thinking in the future I might see about building a tiny 8600G system just for the fun of it, but I'm not in a rush (and would need to get a 3d printer first anyway =D).

@@nadtz I’m in progress making a new small APU case right now actually, the idea is to use a 5700G which I already own, a Noctua L12S cooler paired with a really quiet 200mm intake fan, hopefully making the case almost completely silent even under load. (And again with zero screws, only slide-in place parts that latch.)

@@makerunit L12S is exactly what I was thinking to keep everything low profile, looking forward to seeing what you come up with as inspiration!

Haha, the meaning was the case excluding the component mounts. (Just the case without components installed can be assembled without screws) 😁

Thank you! I’m glad the project caught your interest! 😊

@@makerunitGot any recommendations on videos that show how to refurb a Ender 3 v2? It was used and slightly modified when I bought it from someone who was upgrading.

@@deechvogt1589 Hmm, I can’t think of any specific videos and I feel like when refurbushing a printer you’d only have to swap out the worn parts. I’d recomment checking out if the v-slot wheels are worn, and if the printer is not used too much you can probably just tighten them a bit with the adjusting nut. (But only if the print head feels loose, they may also be too tight causing unnecessary friction for your motors) Also check your belt tension by adjusting the tension knob. I don’t have an exact method for adjusting this correctly as I just go off feel, but a lot of people tend to tighten these too much. My Ender 3v2 has an upgraded mainboard but that’s not really necessary, just something I did to allow for stuff like Linear Advance (which requires some simple code modifying). Apart from that I changed mine to direct drive with an adapter I designed myself which I prefer not to share due to some design flaws that makes changing filament very hard. Generally, the two things I mentioned above, the belt tension, and if the wheels are worn on any of the axis are my main recommendations, I’ve printed hundreds of hours on mine and not ever done a «full refurbish» to be honest, just a couple nozzle swaps and new V slot wheels.

@@makerunit Thank you very much for your suggestions. Now I know where to begin.

Hi! Awesome to hear! I’m so used to using an external hub under my screen so to be honest I keep forgetting to even consider front USB ports 😅 I’ll keep it in mind and try my best to implement it where I see fit, I often want to have my case exteriors as clean as possible, but I guess there are probably some clean ways of implementing front ports, perhaps down by the feet

Thank you! 😊

I’ll try to do it where possible, but some projects simply won’t look aesthetically good if split into parts. 😁

OMG THANK YOU SOOOO MUCH! A version with full-size panels is definitely a possibility! Thanks for the idea, I’ve honestly been so focused on the 180x180mm goal that making this available for bigger printers didn’t even cross my mind 😅

I’m usually running about 10mm thickness on the parts where the joints will sit. Some may say this is too much and they can also be hollowed out (thinner) in the middle to save filament but I personally prefer to keep it an even thickness as the parts will look much cleaner. If making a part that’s just one big solid piece I’m usually happy with 3-4mm wall thicknes.

Thank you! And it’s called Shapr3D, I’m using the paid version but there is a basic version available for free to play around in 😊

It has crossed my mind to implement a screen into a case some time, but I haven’t got any exact plans for now to do that but who knows, maybe some day I’ll suprise ya 😅

I'm sure u will

Hi! I’m planning on making a full size ATX case (also supporting mATX) at some point hopefully in not too long. And I’ll try my best to include some good storage options! 😊

seconded on this. atx nas case sounds great

That’s a really good question… I totally forgot to even measure that… I’ll come back to you on that. If I forget to respond again I’ll probably update it in the Printables description 😁

Definitely considered it. 😊 I’ve got a case in mind that might be a good sandwich case option.

Hi Jordan! Making a case for a laptop motherboard may be a little challenging because most laptops use different types of motherboards so the mounting holes and connectors etc. will be in different places so there’s really no universal way to create something like that. It’s definitely possible to design, but I will probably never do it as I’m focusing on more universal projects that work with off the shelf components and standardized form factors 😊 However, I’m sure it’s doable but due to how many different laptop boards there are I can’t really be of much help there unfortunately… I have plans of making some ITX or mATX cases that have these layouts, console style and laying flat, but not with custom motherboards.

Thank you! 😊

Noted! 😊 I’m eventually planning on trying to re-use some of these techniques to create an even bigger case to accomodate mATX and possibly even full size ATX motherboards 😊

@@makerunit that would be so awesome and if you do please tag me in it because I would love to start the process of printing that

Haha thank you! 😊

Hey Andrew! I’m glad I was able to make something to fit your needs! I’d love to hear some feedback about your experience with the building process! 😊

@@makerunit I'll start printing it tomorrow as 2 minutes from now I'll be leaving or preparing to leave for work. I'll share how it went in your discord incase others were interested in printing it but not wanting to waste it to see how well it goes.

@@Andrew-qo2jg awesome, Sounds good! 😊

I answered your other comment 😊

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pd96Zb2mxtCbopc.html

I used some generic cheap black off the shelf PETG from a local hardware store in Norway. I’ve never really tried using «fancy filaments», though I have a few rolls of that too laying around waiting to be tested 😅

oh thanks for the tips, because I am not sure if I should use ABS or not. I only have generic PETG right now@@makerunit

@@wordjumper2713 I see. I’ve made a lot of cases and mostly used PETG for the last two years. Never had issues at least. 😊 I think it mostly lays in your settings. Poor settings can create weak parts no matter what material you use.

Not sure about rack mount, but a NAS option is on my to-do list. Will probably be a relatively small APU NAS though supporting somewhere in the range of 4-8 drives, possibly a expandable design, just thoughts so far.

It was definitely a lot of fun (and also frustration) creating this design! I understand your concern about the PSU bracket and I’ll look into ways of reinforcing it if possible, though I do not think it will break off, especially if using PETG or ABS/ASA. (But you may be right) Embedding metal pieces could definitely strengthen the structure, but I specifically wanted this design to use as few extra parts as possible 😁 The «extra room» in the case could definitely have been shrunk down a bit, but due to the transparent side panel I wanted to have the interior as clean as possible, where in a non-transparent case the interior layout wouldn’t be as critical.

Thank you!

I’m not saying no, but I can say that currently it’s not on my to-do list unfortunately, so if it were to happen, it’d probably be quite some time in the future 😅

Eventually I’m planning to use some of these techniques to create an even bigger case to support more different parts! Maybe even full size ATX 😊

The size is unfortunately not big enough for Micro ATX motherboards. Mini ITX motherboards are 170x170mm. MATX boards are mostly 244x244mm, so we’d need 74mm of clearance on each side which we unfortunately don’t have.

It’s on my to-do-list 😊

@@makerunit Nice. Cant wait for it!

I have a lot of different project ideas on my to-do list, and Sandwich case is one of the cases on my list. I do not have an exact time when it will happen but it’s coming 😊

Of this exacy model, not at the moment, but I am planning to make a ATX case very soon that is printable on the Ender 3 or similar) 220x220mm print volume. That one should also be able to hold mATX motherboards. 😊 in the sketching phase now but I’ve got some fun ideas in mind possibly using some of the same techniques as in this one.

Well, with an approximate use of 1.7kg filament (assume approx 2 spools of 1kg each) the cost of one spool ranges from 18-30 USD, let’s say 20 for some cheap decent stuff, then add the plexiglass, we’re probably looking at $35-45 in total + print time and power usage… 3D printed cases aren’t always the cheapest options but being a maker, making things is just much more enjoyable than buying it and I think that’s what draws many people to printing cases even though they often end up spending more than they would with just an off the shelf case.

@@makerunit not bad!

I agree, but what draws people to 3D printed cases, and also what draws me to doing this is the joy of creating something from scratch and putting it together yourself rather than buying something pre-made is what keeps me going. I love the challenge of it, and I don’t really mind the price that follows 😄

Hi! I understand your concern but I can assure you that you are free to cancel the membership at any time, even right after signing up if these project files are the only ones you’re looking for. Many people will sign up and then cancel after their download and that’s completely up to you if you want to stay a member or not 😊

Thanks! And yeah I totally agree with you. The main reason why I do 3D printing is for the fun of creating things from scratch and the learning I do along the way, not necessarily to save money. If making stuff is of no interest, I’d also recommend buying a pre-manufactured option. 😊

Also as a fellow maker, hats off to you my guy, wonderful build!@@makerunit

@Doile911 What's a cheap small Chinese case worth??? Cause i printed my case for less than 5 bux in 5 hours. HOWEVER you have very pretty little hands.

@@Defyant123 Thank you! Noone ever complimented my hands, much appreciated. Ex. Chieftec CI-01b-op

@@Defyant123 Also i would love to hear where you got your filament from or what brand. Maybe i am using very expensive filament.

Doesn’t the bambu have some other volume restrictions due to the purge tower placement? Or am I wrong? Can the Bambu actually print 256x256? Or maybe it’s just for those with the AMS unit, or maybe I just misunderstood the whole thing 😅 Anyways, I’m planning on making more cases the next months to accomodate more different part configurations!

@@makerunit good point :) i generally don't use purge towers even for multi-color. the testing purge/wipes section in the front and back bring it down to about 250-ish

I have a Printables Club, which is like a patreon but on Printables.com. 😁 I am planning to make more vertical cases eventually but not right away. It’s hard to say a time frame but it’s on my to-do list, this is requested from many! But mATX and Vertical don’t mix too well, aren’t vertical cases supposed to be tall and narrow? 😁 if it’s too wide it might as well be a normal tower.

@@makerunitIts mini-dtx miss spelled :D I can subscribe, np. Im not really good design, something like meshlicious would be topnocth for me.

@@vapenap Subscribing is highly appreciated, but don’t feel like you have to, you can wait until a suitable design for you is available. I don’t want you to feel like you have to, to get your idea through 😊

About $40 worth of material + power button and plexiglass and the magnets, power socket etc, so it’s hard to give an exact number as these may vary in price from place to place.

Yeah, 180x180mm is the required print surface 😁 the A1 mini and the Prusa Mini were what I had in mind when designing this.

Hi, yes this design works with 2 slot GPU’s 😊 Some of the bigger cards may be too wide (so the connectors don’t fit between the glass and GPU but most will fit fine 😊

@@makerunitThanks!

@1:44 you see me weigh it, it’s about 1.7kg with my settings, so anywhere between 1.5 and 2kg total.

@@makerunit damit. Sorry. Thanks for the swift reply. I Will make sure to print it 👍👍

@@Ke_v_in Awesome! Let me know if you need anything! 😊

Well, luckily we’re not at the end of the tracks yet! More track ahead! 😉

At the moment I do not, and I personally will most likely not sell my cases due to limited space and number of printers, but I’m considering to create a commercial license so other people can sell these.

@@makerunit will have to invest in a 3D Printer at some point. Do you recommend any that will print this size all okay?

@@adambailey1993 this size can be printed on most common printers, this one specifically is actually intentionally designed in small pieces to accomodate «everyone’s» needs 😊 Just make sure it’s bigger than 180x180mm size for this specific case, BUT, however, I recommend getting a bigger printer as they don’t cost that much more and gives you so much more flexibility if you have the space for it!

@@makerunit Awesome!! Thankyou!! :D

@@adambailey1993 the ideal size is 300x300mm if you intend on printing a lot of things and have space for it, but if you’re mainly considering it for this project somewhere in the range of 220x220 to 250x250mm bed size will be a good starting point for a «first printer»

Hi Jonathan! My answer is MAYBE. Because theoretically, yes, however there is only about 25-28mm of cable management clearance behind the connectors assuming your power supply is 125x125x63.5mm in size. Which may be a little tight, but might also work. So yeah, maybe… 😅 Unfortunately I do not have a SFX L supply to test this theory.

@@makerunit Thanks! I had a feeling that what might happen. Is there enough room to modify the bracket so it sits further toward the left side of the case?

@@pctechadvisor Hi! Yeah it might be possible to move it slightly, however it might get tight with the clearance to the glass on the other side for the C13 cable, unless you’re able to get a very low profile C13 cable.

@@makerunit I haven't got it together yet, so I guess I will need to see how much space I am working with before trying to modify your bracket. Thanks!

@@pctechadvisor If you could do me the favor of measuring how far your current connector sticks out of the PSU, I can modify the file for you to maximize the space use. It takes me only a couple minutes to modify if I know how much clearance you need for the C13 you have, as they all differ a bit. Measure from the flat plane where the screws attach, and to the very top of the power connector.

Hi! The outer volume of the case is approx. 18.7 liters, (360x261x200mm) 😊

I think I can answer that already. Never. 😊 But I guess it will eventually start to decompose after a few hundred years.

And that’s why I intentionally designed both side panels to use the exact same mounts, meaning the non-glass panel will actually be usable on both sides, so it would be as easy as just printing two of them😊

@@makerunit Genius, dude! I was debating buying a mini itx case or a 3d printer, almost decided on a 3d printer before seeing my favorite case on sale. I'll try your designs whenever I save up for a 3d printer tho, love your vids!

Haha I don’t actually speak German, I’m from Norway. The German thing was kind of a joke, but from my very little understanding of German I’m guessing you’re asking if I can make a case for ATX? Am I right?

@@makerunit yes

Thank you! Unfortunately I don’t offer cases for sale, only the digital files to build them yourself 😁

🥳

👍

I might emerge my designs into other platforms over time. So people can join from their preferred platform rather than me forcing people onto that specific platform 😊

Hi! I totally understand your concern and this is a very common misunderstanding about 3D printed PC cases. A lot of people seem to think that they will melt if the internal components ever reach high temps but what’s important to keep in mind is that all these temperatures are recorded deep inside the components at it’s processing cores, meaning that the hot spots are never actually touching any of the plastic parts. It’s like when you turn on your stove in the kitchen and hold your hand a little bit above it, it feels warm, but not burning, but as soon as you touch it, it burns. Even though the cores of the parts are hot, the air surrounding it will never ever reach those same temperatures. Also, 3D Printing a PC case is rarely about saving money, but more about the joy of making stuff for the fun of it.

@Ale_giro @Ale_giro Are you that guy who's never 3D printed a case???? Case modded? or even built a custom case other than a "shop brought" one. It's always that guy who does this post.