Make large molds and cast concrete furnitures!

Actually, increasing number of walls might help more than addng the infill :)

2:55 pro tip, you can unpack the box and carry the pieces in one or a few at a time, you don't have to keep it in the box.

Bless you. I was a wood furniture designer/builder for 45 years. After being forced into early retirement I decided to try tackling printed furniture. There is about as much to learn about printing as there is to learn about wood furniture building, and not much crossover between the two. The first thing you must do is 'think out of the box' when it comes to designs, avoiding overhangs/ supports, 'joinery', and try to come up with one-piece solutions to furniture applications. It's not easy to switch over from woodwork thinking but you'll get the hang of it. I realized early on that I couldn't really make anything from gluing together parts, so I purchased a Modix big60 for about what you paid for the elegoo. It's been a very reliable and flexible machine. I print mostly with a 1.0mm nozzle, sometimes a 1.5mm and sometimes a .8mm. I avoid infill when I can and rely instead on hollow parts with multiple perimeters and internal bracing/webs, it saves time and money and is pretty strong. I only use PLA for prototyping ideas and PETG when it's time to get serious. (The thing about PLA is that it sags and weakens over time, some of the large prints I did 5 years ago are starting to fall apart.) PETG is a little too flexible sometimes though. I've experimented with CF/Nylon, ABS, PC, etc., and they are not cost-effective, plus they all require heated enclosures. Drying your filament is essential, always take your spools down to 12-15% before you use them, and keep them in the dryrs when printing. I have several of the sunlu dryers, they work pretty well. Calibration is crucial. Whatever printer you're using, flow rate, e-steps, clearances, temperature towers, experimenting with nozzles, temps and speeds is essential before you can get consistent results, and on a big machine, these factors are even more important to get properly sorted. I abhor postwork. After 4 decades of woodworking I don't ever want to see another piece of sandpaper or finishing product. And this is one place where printing can be a boon, a properly designed project can come off the bed ready for use, which is just the way I like it. The time factor is a drag, yes, but I just turned out a pair of very nice loudspeaker enclosures with double walls that I filled with fine sand, and not only are they stylish but the sound in amazing, and REW software measurements show that they are as accurate as any production examples under $6000 a pair. Yes, They took 400 hours to print, but a pair in plywood or MDF made to the same standard of function would take a comparable amount of days because I can print 24/7 but only work 12/7. I prefer matte filaments to gloss, they hide the layer lines/imperfections better. And even though printers x, y or z can supposedly print at 300mm/second, the basic rule remains, slower means better quality. As other posters here have commented, making casting molds is another excellent technique and has the advantage of multiple copies being produced from a single print run ( sometimes! ) I considered casting my speaker enclosures from hydrostone, but in the end I just printed them because it was faster. ( I am not always a very patient man ) I also weigh in at 300 pounds, so designs that will keep my butt off the floor will pretty much work for anyone. So keep working on it, if you want to discuss anything just contact me through my channel.

As someone who has a company for 3D printing, we actually are planning to get a large-size printer but the main use of such machines is not making or competing with regular furniture. We make custom-made products for our clients and when we make a design, it is unique and personal for a specific customer which makes it worth much more than a regular product that can be found on the shelf. And, using wood filament to make an actual chair is not ideal since most additives to filament will weaken it. A common good material for these applications is ABS-GF or PP-GF. These materials are fantastic, strong and rigid and will be suitable for furniture making. We have our eyes on Mingda industrial printers (the 1m ones) which are enclosed and are suitable for engineering materials. The Elegoo orange is fine for basic materials it seems but lacks the potential for better materials ESPECIALLY at this scale things go wrong quickly and you need a stable environment to print your parts in. The Elegoo orange is waaaaaay cheaper though :) Thank you for sharing your thoughts!

Love your humor, especially the look of true anguish as you sat on the chair for the first time. And how you did the wrap up of a video on 3D printing stools and chairs by sitting on the floor. And yeah - I am also glad to see that woodworkers still have a place in the world. :-)

Part of the benefits here would be printing geometry that would otherwise be too complex or time consuming to create in any other way. For example rather than using to print a chair that could be created using wood and "traditional" joinery, creating a chair that is designed from the ground up to get the full benefit from 3d printing - the design of the chair could be truly unexpected and interesting as it's not informed by tradition or the limitations of traditional woodworking. Great video 😊

Seeing the model of that chair rail in the slicer on the Elegoo bed and then the Bamboo bed was amazing! That Elegoo is MASSIVE!

INLAYS IN CABINETS/DRAWERS WOUD BE SICK like 80x60cm drawer inserts in one piece would be so clean

Was a fun inspiring video no matter what the result was. Tack. :)

You could print jigs and templates to use with your router for wood projects.

Id be interested in printing the stool hollow then filling it with something. Resin or even a thin concrete might be interesting. I realise it would require design of the internal structure but would be a very interesting build method. Also in only creating an outside layer it should use less pla.

Exactly what I need for my Twizy F1-project, it would be perfect to print the nose cone/frontspoiler and the diffusor in the back! 😅😃

I was going to buy this printer but the wait time is what got me. I have a few ideas to improve it using some designs and upgrades ive done with other printers.

What I would print with something that big, Custom car parts, Speaker boxes. Guitar pieces (Neck and Body), Custom bicycle rims, Tabletop arcade cabinet, Giant bender the robot, and giant human skull. Just a few ideas off the top of my head.

Use orcaslicer and do all of the calibrations to fix the under extrusion. If your volumetric flow speeds too high for that filament, it will cause this. Also, wood filaments are hard to print with great results in general and I don't think they are as durable.

You can print a crazy jig, full size and ready to use, for making an elaborate wood joint.

After your review sounds with current tech on market. This can be great for prototyping and mold making

Id use that to print all my woodworking templates

One space tip, open the box outside, and carry the pieces in? Then you only need the assembly space inside. You know, when it's NOT snowing. // The value add is when the price point is high, not low. Say, 3d printing yourself a coffin. Those things are stupid expensive. Or, body kits for cars, where customization is worth the money, and they are essentially non-structural. Great video!

after watching more, i can say this would be good for those life size models for events or conventions

Great video Pierre, I was very skeptical about 3d printed furniture. now I'm even more skeptical LOL

Awesome video with a sensible conclusion :)

I'm super excited to get mine in June. I've got a Mosquito Prime hit end with a 2.4mm nozzle waiting. Big thick layers is where it's at.

You could pause prints and add other materials inside the print if you model the pieces with this in mind. I obviously never print this big, but I like to add weights etc in my prints and do that through pause commands to make them fully encased in the print

I like your video, thanks for doing this. You could use the print parameters used by VORON for your designs. Those are really stiff and it should be the right amount of walls, infill etc.

I should get back to working on my large format printer, print volume is 600x1000x600 but almost ¼ of the size of that one, my main design goal was that it would fit through a doorway without taking it apart.

I'm pretty sure your "mountain" of Festool boxes is growing...... ;) Awesome review of this printer. I've watched a few reviews of this printer but none until now actually made me think about what a printer of this size actually means. Thanks.

Wow the amount of issues straight out of the box.. thats wild. Lmao they even clogged the nozzle for you before shipping, how nice of them!

The novelty of the size is undeniable, but as you say the price of filament easily adds up for bigger projects.

I didn't expect him to say the S word at the end, the beginning was totally PG 💀

hollow legs for threaded rod. a cushion on top and rubber feet. perfection and durability

Creative video, thank you :)

Finally, I can 3d-print a 3d printer.

Actually, PLA is one of the “strongest” materials you can print, for holding/crushing, and layer adhesion. Petg, and Abs are better “impact resistant”.

Great demo! I don't think you have to worry about losing your job! Very few people would want to print their own furniture while the majority of people prefer furniture made of traditional materials like wood ( as long as there is a will to plant more trees, and recycle as much wood as possible). I also hope to see better designed and affordable filament recycling products in the future. Your chair looks good, and as you said it could have used a better framing configuration. Finally, what slicer did you use? Did Elegoo include the profile for the Giga in their slicer? I would be curious to test some parts, and see what kind of printing time I would be expecting for one of my future projects.

3D print museum artifacts for hands on education. Recreate a complete vintage locomotive style tv or rare radios for display or theatre props. So many cool stuff to create, if I could I would test this out and probably make stuff all day long.

Fantastic video and 100% agree there are a good number of issues Elegoo needs to sort out

Would love to see you make a few fun garden items like statues and bird baths. Possibly even a post box or sundial

car parts, molds, drawer inserts, trim pieces, jigs, cases, mousepads, desktops, PC cases I could think of loads of things to use it for.

You can carbpn fibre wrap prints for strength and looks.

Loved the video! I wonder if you could use a large format printer like this to design and build large router templates, say for guitar bodies. Shows that wood working and 3D printing could have a place along side each other in the future.

first things that come to mind: cosplay and prop making for small theatres and such :)

As a Doctor Who fan, I would use this to print a full sized Dalek. Even at the size of the printer, the Dalek would have to be broken down into sections to be assembled after the print is finished.

I'm printing a enclosure for my printer, tons of pieces that bolt together. With this i could print it all at once

Hi, great channel. You can use cling film wrapped around the frame to enclose the print for other filaments.

Wonder if you could do a print in place bedside table witha draw

With the design on the stool and other large objects there are some options. You could add cross bracing between the legs quite easily as long as it's not angled past a certain amount, like 45 degrees ideally. Anything you print upright you can always chamfer more gradually into the large surface as well so support aren't necessary. For getting a wood pattern too, you can actually generate a wood grain effect and add it while modeling. In general, adding more walls will make the prints much stronger, especially in thin areas. Just some thoughts for you and anyone reading. Very cool!

printer of that size I would be making jigs, forms and and such. nice printer!

If you could use a very low infill that had gaps creating channels that something like resin could be poured into that could be interesting. Obviously resin an PLA don't mix well, but the idea is what matters. Using a 3d print to act as an exoskeleton/mold could be pretty cool.

I think it is perfect for printing large picture frames.

With this size, you can print pretty good speaker enclosures that are worth more than 3d printer itself. You can also print whole rc plane parts and much more.

Don't worry Pierre, if you ever need help moving a giant 3d printer, just give me a call! Seriously jealous. This thing looks very cool. I could see some fun use cases for this and woodworking. You could make giant router templates very easily. Or large-scale jigs. Etc.

Not sure if the bed would get hot enough but you could try PCTG for stronger parts

For added strength you might want to look at more perimeters instead of more infilll.

Sounds like you had the exact same issue that the 3DPrintingNerd had with the hotend crashing right into the bed. I think with the size it will be better suited for creating larger models and possibly molds to do resin or silicone in.

I don’t have room for such a big printer but nice to see that such a device is now affordable and available. For stronger parts use more walls not infill. Instead of useing more infill you can make tiny (0.1mm) cutouts inside the model. This way the slicer is forced to add walls there. Interesting what’s possible to print with such a big printer.

It looks like the 4 sections of bed are just Neptune 4 max beds stuck together. I have one and while it can totally print very great big prints it is very finicky. For example, the bed needs an extra 20 minutes to heat up every time in order for it to be the same temp all around.

Try printing a chair upside down in vase mode (square seat that transitions into circle base) then attach a back rest

Amazing and scary at the same time. Good to know it's not going to compete with wood due to price right now.

What is the black filament used for the stool ? It look nice !

That same break happened to 3d Nerd. 1 extruder and 2 plates later and code update he started printing!

This printer would be great for printing Mock-ups, as they are not intended for real use anyway - if you just want to get the feeling of how it looks in full size or scaled down depending on what you are making an Mock-up from this printer would be great, also I am sure it's good for things that shouldn't be sat on or have that kind of weight on it.

This printer is best for bigger Cosplay items! :o

Funne about the sizes it can make. I would make more rc bodies, designing parts for them for my channel, both here on youtube, instagram and tiktok. But not as big as your channel (yeat) ;-) Thanks for showing the new Elegoo. Best from Mickey, Denmark

Every time I see a new video about it, I get nervous about my Kickstarter unit

My first thought was Castle Grey Skull. Like kids toy play sets or displays for collectors.

Great review, filament is expensive, at this price point you can get 2 good, eco friendly, wooden chairs. I own a Bambu x1 carbon, great printer, not much to do before printing my 3D designed parts.

For making furniture a laser cutter or large CNC machine makes a lot more sense. Maybe if you could 3D print on a steel frame ... or insert the steel frame into the print afterwards...

you printing with .4mm nozzel? :)

Hey man! I love your videos!!! Just heads up, you keep mentioning infill when you talk about strength, but actually, number of perimeters is going to influence strength more than infill. Just FYI!

I think the whole 3D printing future is wonderful and will be very useful for many reasons BUT I very much doubt it with replace a good woodworker.

Its worth spending the filament just making cool projects to show the world honestly. You could end up making cool puzzle pieces for artwork then showing a fully crafted item- like aircraft, ships, tanks, 3d printed tree or flowers within a pot. Literally anything man! If I had the ability to do this stuff, I'd make anything anyone asked for in the comments because its something new to try. Even if it ends up not going well, its still content to show us the limits and capabilities of the machine!

stuck spool air printing is my guess for Stool 1. its the number one problem the bambu ams solves

I've had this ideal of a similar machine but instead of printing things into reality, print them into a model format file. That way you can 3d print existing objects into a "computer", and sell them as packs on "asset marketplaces". My dream was to be able to dangle a ball in the center of a room, and scan the entire room into a 3d Model, that would save time for those who are not skilled in using 3d modeling software.

Increase # of walls for sturdiness. Infill might help, but not as much, and will cost a lot more filament.

Thumbs up for getting the boxes into your house alone.

You could make some mega dust shrouds with that. Also costumes

Gotta use that elmers purple glue stick my man, i wont do a long print without it

Giant router templates!

Here's an idea which I hesitate to say instead of doing myself! Try creating a sort of shell print of a chair, and then fill it with resin

Why do you say you would need an enclosure for printing PETG on this machine?

Let us know when the stool breaks. I would try printing it in parts. The chair seat plate as one print with hexagonal leg slots. Legs separate with hexagonal shape, printed flat on the bed so the layers are vertical, rather than horizontal. Possibly even each leg in two pieces that hexagonally plug in together. Also it means a lower risk of print failure destroying the entire print. You could then glue the legs or just make them them a snug connector fit. Use arch construction for a full back rest chair. With 3D printing you need to change the design to match the material capabilities.

I’d be looking for a 3mm nozzle and using 3mm filament to print with that enormous thing.

Hey Pierre, you made me laugh a few times in the video. I love your humor. And even if you say you have no friends, think about the thousands of real people that love your content. 😊 What a great and entertaining Video again. Knowing I'm pretty creative and thinking about what a 3D printer this size could be used for... I'm still left with a blank. Why would I spend the money, time and hassle (think of failed prints) to prototype something I probably could make faster with other tools or methods? Maybe build a robot? 😂 Often I find myself wanting to have a new tool you show, but this time it's a pass for me (my wife will be thankful). 😂

i wonder if u can make durable motor bike frames with this

You don’t need a different type of Mayer to make it stronger, you need different designs. In 3d printing you have a lot of strength inside the layers and very little between the layers. That stool will snap very easily!!

I have absolutely ZERO room in this house, I practically have to scootch in sideweays as it is, but I SO want to order one... Imagine being able to print life size statues of my nephews and nieces...

Regarding the price of printing at that scale, then sure if you use wood fill that cost 500SEK per kilo its expensive, but you can find PLA as low as under 100SEK if are willing to compromise a little and use filament with higher diameter tolerances.

That chair you made is way better than my highschool chair.

I think one reason for both the stool's success and the chair's failure is fillets on stress risers. If you round off those inside corners, the chair will be able to take a lot more weight. It does make it look a LOT more 3D printed or machined and a lot less woodworked, though!

I've been fiddling with this concept for a while, I truly believe it will become an industry at some point, there's a lot of logistic benefits, but I don't think it can ever outcompete the classic woodworking. Its too versatile and cost efficient. The models look neat off the print already! To tackle the integrity of the print, try reinforce the design by integrating wood in the structural elements; by modeling hollowed out sections of the 3d prints and inserting beams or rods of wood with a friction fit + add epoxy if you're not planning on reusing the 3d printed parts, most of the wood can be repurposed with a bit of sanding. Tip: You greatly reduce the requirement of woodworking if you buy off-the shelf beams/rods and further model the furniture around them.

I would definitely put an enclosure on a printer that big even for PLA. I would also add a fillet or chamfer on those chair "joints" to make them a bit stronger. And yes, PETG would be much stronger. Having said that, plastics will never replace wood for me. So unless they come up with a way to 3d print pure wood, you'll have a job.

wow. Spelled W.O.W. Very COol. Especially in a sea of 3D printers. And you are right, not as expen$ive as I would have figured. At first I wondered if a large filament shipping container is placed outside the window and get 'fed in' using a built-in diesel engine? But then I spotted the included rolls. BTY; The finish on your chair is amazing. Thanks for taking one for the team. You RoCk! Cheers from So.Ca.USA 3rd House On the Left.

It could be used to make large molds for resin furniture.

Sometimes when it looks like the printer isn't adjusting to the changes in the height in the bed it's because it might be adjusting too much, which is caused by an inaccurate bed mesh.

Look at Furniture thesedays for example. 20 Years ago woodworking was a job for a living where joiners build furniture for everyone. Cheap particleboards and lamination machines came and ikea style furniture buecame the norm. Some joners closed and many kept going. Same with 3D Printing, it will open another option for furniture and there will be products on the market that might replace some joinery but in the end there will be always room so handmade solid wood furniture that costs more money but lasts longer is mostly better looking and will be apreciated by some who are willing to spent the money.

I'd be very worried about how much filament this will eat through when you start doing large prints, I'd probably go bankrupt. 4:31 interestingly enough I watched another youtube video where this exact same thing happened. That video also had filament run out, run through the run-out sensor so the printer "paused" but on the way down the filament hit an endstop, knocking it loose and the toolhead then slamming into the side with the endstop missing causing a layer shift. I think a large volume printer like this would be excellent to make things like guides, templates, molds and other tools that can help you make things from "real" materials. And if you jank it up you could even replace the toolhead with a laser or plotter to make really big drawings/engravings, if you ever figure out how to get the bed level. There's only so many possibilities with 36 adjustment screws right?

for the stool put a steel tube may help with legs

150mm/s? I just upgraded my voron 0 so it can travel at 500 and print at 420, and I still think it's too slow even though the print area is tiny. Look like it would be much practical to get a 500mm ratrig if you want a big 3d printer.