Hey there Bruce. Right you are. You need a significant load to really test a battery. Sometimes even the 100 amp isn't a 'proof positive' test but it sure helps. Thanks for watching and have a good week!!!

How's she goin'? Thanks for the visit and I appreciate you commenting. Sounds Like you got yourself a great deal on the battery. I found the load tester I have works good on batteries with cranking amps over 300. When I used it to test the battery on my Estate car lawn tractor , which is 300 CCA, it always shows that it's weak, even on a brand new battery. But if you know what you are testing, the load tester is a great tool to help you out!! Take care!!

@@GrampiesWorkshop The main reason for the lawn tractor testing bad is the lawn tractor battery doesn't have enough cranking amps to give the battery load tester an adequate reading. A battery load tester has a heating element inside the load tester and will draw about 20% of the car battery's entire cranking amps. That is the reason why the battery load tester gets so hot.

I sort of wish I didn't have the tester know. I like when you come to me for help!!! Nannies are the best!!!!

Good day eh!!! You know I didn't think I needed a tester like this, but trouble shooting starting systems becomes a lot easier now that I can eliminate the battery as a problem. Thanks for watching and have a good week!!!

Bonne Jour Dave!!! It's always a guessing game when a vehicle won't start. This load tester helps eliminate the a battery problem at least. I hear talk about some weather coming on the weekend but the weather man has been wrong before!!! Thanks for watching Dave!!!

Hey there Guys!!! I always wanted to have one so this fall I bit the bullet and bought on on sale. Glad I did!!! Thanks for tuning in pal!!!

How's she goin' Wendel? Horror Freight - Ha Ha Ha!!! We call Canadian Tire "Crappy Tire' probably for the same reasons!!! They sure are handy to have though. I like being able to determine if the battery is good or bad and then finish the trouble shooting after that!!! Hope you are having a great time this week and enjoying yourself. You know it's the 1st week in the rest of your life!!!! Thanks for watching and taker 'er easy!!!

How's she goin' John? I just got this last fall and I used it a lot already. Should of had one years ago!!! Thanks for tuning in John!!!

Hello again!!! Thanks for tuning in. I hope I don't disappoint you with future vids!!! I try to keep them light and funny I hope. It's just the way I do things out in the woods. I'm no expert, I just show a way to get things done!!! Thanks again for watching!!!

Hello there Gary!!! Thanks for tuning in!!! I have had issues in the past with vehicles that won't start and I always would struggle trying to figure out if the battery was the culprit. Now with this tester I can determine if the battery is good or bad. Some handy for sure!!! Take 'er easy!!!

How's she goin'? You're right Steve, batteries can go bad pretty quick. That's another good reason to have a tester right!! I spent way too much time trying to figure out if it's a bad battery, charge system, wiring and so on ... Test the battery, If it's good you can start the troubleshooting there!!! Thanks for tuning in brother!!

How's she goin' Ken!!! Thanks a lot for searching out my little channel. I appreciate you subbing. I'm heading to your channel next and I like DIY and puppies so I bet I'll like your channel too!!! Take 'er easy!!

Good day eh!!! This load tester has paid for itself here in my shop in Central Nova Scotia. Tomorrow it's supposed to be -22 so I may get to use it again tomorrow!!! Thanks for the good wishes. I am going to check your channel and sub!!! Have a good week!!!

Hey there Mr Fixit!!! You are so right. Voltage means nothing. The battery has to be able to produce amperage or it's just a heavy block of junk!!! I have a charger like you are talking about. Only makes voltage if it sees voltage first!!! That's how it can tell when battery is charged. When the 'back emf' is equal to the 'applied emf' it senses the battery is fully charged and shuts off. And right again about a low current to charge a battery. Low and slow is a rule for many things isn't it!!! Thanks for watching and have a great week!!!

@@GrampiesWorkshop 👍😊

How's she goin' Henry!!! I hear ya buddy!!! Nothing worse than starting problems in the cold. I had a battery once that measured 12.4 volts and won't turn over the engine. Come to find out the battery had a bad cell and wouldn't produce any current. It;'s the current that needs to be tested and without a load tester you can't check that. Hope the CAA comes through for you. They are a great organization. Thanks for watching!!! Take 'er easy!!!

Hello there buddy!!! On your boat!!! Man it's the middle of January - oh wait, you're in the south right. LOL I saw you fishing in your video the other day and was kind of jealous!!! Hope it helped with the battery on your boat!! Thanks for watching and have a good week!!!

Hey Drew, thanks for watching!!! Sometime a tester can be pretty cheap if you watch for them on sale or whatever, but no matter the cost, they're worth it!!! Take 'er easy!!

What's up Dave? I'm the same. When a vehicle wouldn't start I was scrambling getting a battery from this rig or that rig or hooking up jumper cables and it was always freezing out it seemed. Well now I can determine if the battery is the fault and make better decisions about how to fix the problem once and for all!!! Thanks for watching and have a good one buddy!!

Salut Joe!!! A half bad battery isn't too bad when the engine turns over pretty easy, but when it's cold and the oil thick the battery has to make some current and a bad battery, or 1/2 bad, just can't do it. I hope the Bolens doesn't let you down on the weekend, it's suppose to snow pretty good here, not sure about around your place. Thanks for tuning in and have a good week!!

I have a spare battery from the splitter I keep in the garage. So I use it to boost start. 30 cm for the next weekend and in my case, this is pretty much like US currency with a rate of 1.35... So most likely 40 in the mountain!

How's she goin' Gord? The battery didn't do too good. Ended up with a bad cell and now it is in battery heaven!!! But you know that battery caused me some grief as I thought it was a good and that made me suspect the charging system. Wasted time trying to trouble shoot that too. Thanks for watching!!!

Salut Mon Ami!!! It seems to me that when ever I had an issue with a dead battery I was always wondering if the battery was going bad. This helps me in that troubleshooting effort!!! Thanks for tuning in!!!

I whent to Canadian Tire and got me one this morning

I bet you'll use it before the weekend is over!!! A toute a l'heure mon ami!!!

As soon as I arive from work

How's she goin'? That's a good point. Most times though I would connect this tester to a battery in a vehicle that I assumed, if the vehicle showed normal charging and operation (no battery lights on) that the battery was fully charged, or as charged as it could be. Even though, this tester is really too small a load to properly check a 'normal' car or truck battery. It might be OK for a lawn tractor or the like but for a vehicle like a car or truck, I think a bigger load would be better. Thanks for tuning in and it sounds like you know your way around car batteries, so thanks for the comment. Take care!!!

I tried to get on your second comment but couldn't so I'll try and answer it here!! I think the only difference between a 100 and 500 amps tester is the size of the load. A 500 amp tester can withstand the higher current and the wattage of the load can handle the higher current and therefore provide a better test for the battery. I think the procedure for testing would be the same no matter the size. I hope that answered your question!! Take care!!

@@GrampiesWorkshop yea that’s why it says when you connect it to charge it if it’s below that level, as well as in the instructions. You cant always assume that just because the alternator etc is working properly that a battery is as charged as it can be. I see this all the time. People who use their vehicles every day or twice a day, like my dad, to go on very short trips down the street to get some fountain drinks. 1 mile there & 1 mile back. That’s two major loads of hundreds of amps drawn in a split second, & just a couple of minutes to charge it up. It cant come anywhere near topping up that battery, there he starts it again to come home minutes later & that’s another huge draw on the battery minutes later despite not being anywhere near topped up after the first time. Whole charging system works flawless but that battery capacity is going to trend downwards over time quickly. Even when it gets topped up on longer drives it won’t be truly topped up because it’s existed in such a low charge state for so long. You can definitely recover these batteries or at the least drastically improve their baseline. It will take more than just a day of charging to do it though. Anyway yea so especially if you’re going to toss a battery based on the results always charge it fully first to understand where it’s truly at

@@GrampiesWorkshop yea that makes sense as far as the 100 vs 500 but what doesn’t make sense to me is the 100’s say to use them for 10 or 15 seconds whatever it is…but so do the 500 amp units that say to use 1/2 The CCA. so how the hell are you supposed to get the same results from a 300amp load for 15 seconds for example as a 100 amp load for 15 seconds…like how is it possible those procedures are both valid for testing a battery of the same size. You’d think a 100a unit would require you to run it for longer than the 300amp test (on a 500 amp unit) to be able to draw the same conclusion about batteries health. I’m working this all poorly does this make any sense? I think either the 100amp unit manufacturers are being misleading with what size batteries their unit’s are good for, or…that’s the only real explanation that makes sense to me.

@@Fee.1 So here I go!! LOL When using the 100 Amp battery tester, there is a wattage concern about the load resister in the tester. The wattage is such that the load can withstand 100 amps for 15 seconds without doing it any damage. You use the 100 amp tester on batteries that would normally produce about 100 amps when they are used to start an engine or whatever. IF the battery can produce 100 amps and sustain that for 15 seconds it should test OK. Now I'm thinking this same setup will apply to a 500 amp battery. The 500 amp tester can withstand 500 amps for 15 seconds and this is enough of a load draw on the battery to make a determination if the battery is capable of producing it's rated current. And like you, I'm not too sure if this makes any sense because as I read it over, it's is kind of confusing!! Oh well there ya have it, my 2 cents worth!! Take care!!