Great video. Covered all the basics in a simple straight forward format. I am looking at a couple of Mamiya’s locally. One is a C220 and the other a C330. There is also a Mamiya C3. Any thoughts on it.

@@daverthedude1 Thanks for the kinds words. I've never used a C3. I used a C220 once and it had some mechanical issues. Operationally, it felt close to the C330. Like 85% the same.

Thanks for your feedback. I look forward to watching more of your videos

Great camera. The C22 is a great option too for even more simplicity.

Yeah. And they call 35mm 135. But 120 doesn’t mean 120mm. Randomness.

Thank you! Enjoy your new camera!

Thanks for the watch. I’ve never tried the 250. Now I am looking at them on EBay….

@@KevinDeal And for those that it might interest there was a Mamiay C22, C33, C220 bodies with less features but the same basic bodies...

Thank you kindly. My channel is newly-launched. I guess I gotta play the long game. Going to keep plugging away and making videos. Positive comments like yours keep me going. I truly appreciate the watch and am thrilled my video helped you out. The C330 is a fun little camera. One of the best ways to get into medium format film on a budget.

@@KevinDeal awesome! I wish you well. Would you advise any other cameras for me to take a look at, given a good knowledge of photography but no knowledge of analog?

@@jakekiser6711 it all depends on budget and how big of a camera you want to carry around. If you liked my review of the mamiya C330, I also recommend checking out my review of the Mamiya RB67. I personally like it a little better than the C330. Also, the Mamiya 645 is a great camera as well. Pentax would be their biggest medium format competitor. Also great cameras. I just prefer Mamiya a little more. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fOCnlsaYlZzQn4U.html

Best medium format for the money if you ask me.

Thank you! I've never tried it in sub-zero temperatures, but I don't think that would be too big of an issue.

It’s the perfect first camera. I have another video I did where I take it on a Photoshoot. I encourage you to check that one out. Might get you even more excited.

You are welcome! Glad you enjoyed it!

You’re welcome! Enjoy!l the camera!

Thank you! Never tried the C2. Need to!

thank you Henry. It's a fun camera system.

Thank you Gianni!

I agree. I wish I could put my RB lenses on my C330 body. :( Thanks for watching!

Thank You I was just going to add a comment regarding what you just said. Back when I was using C330s for Wedding Photography I was surprised at how many other photographers using the same system were unaware that the parallax indicator also was an exposure compensation indicator as well and how important the lens dial on the side needed to be turned to the lens you were using at the time because that changed the motion of the parallax/exposure indicator. I remember many photographers doing close up (which this camera was great at because of the bellows focusing) detail shots and wondering why they were underexposed. When using bellows focusing and focusing on something close you would be increasing the distance between the lens and the film plane and because of the inverse square rule there would be less light hitting the film the further the lens was away from the film plane. Also no one ever mentions that you can’t release the lens holding mechanism unless you turn the unlock, which flips a light blocking door into place, but it still won’t release unless the bellows/lens assembly was completely against the body. Another thing never mentioned is the importance of the pressure plate on the inside of the back door. Maybe because 220 film doesn’t exist anymore but when shooting it needs to be set to the correct film type. 120 film has backing paper that runs the entire length of the roll thereby it is thicker and needs less pressure from the plate to hold it flat and flush with the film plane. 220 film doesn’t have the paper backing, otherwise it would not fit on the roll, so it was thinner and needed a little more pressure from the plate.

Thanks for the mention 120/ 220 pressure plate.

@@petercoyle9922. Thanks for this mention. Question . Different lenses use different color lines for a couple stops more exposure?

Thanks! It's a great camera to get into medium format!

Thank you. I appreciate the kind words.

I love the low angle for environmental portraits. It's only when I need to get eye to eye with the subject I find myself reaching for the prism finder. Thanks for the watch!

Congrats! It's a fun camera to work with

You're welcome!

Yes. I love it. I am always tempted to get a 645, but it may make more sense for me to just get a 645 film back for my RB67.

@@KevinDeal to me that wouldn't make sense, since you still carry a big and rather heavy camera then. Also with the M645 1000s that I own, you also have a shutter speed of 1/1000 instead of 1/400.

Always good to use the right film!

Excellent point

-THE BLACKMAN ARMED WITH A CAMERA

Thanks for watching. That seems like a good price to me. Give it a shot!

Thank you. Yea. One of mine rubs. The other doesn’t. Glad you love the podcast.

Since I made this video, I still own my C330's AND i went out and got a Hasselblad. Your statement about the glass is correct. The Mamiya glass is amazing. The main thing where the Hasseblad beats it is the changeable backs and the fact that it is more compact of a system. Outside of that, the C330 is a WAY better value. And your point about having two different lenses is spot on.

Great points about the New York reload. Having a second body is good in case of a mechanical failure too. We used to do something similar in 35mm by having say a Minolta X series and an extra SRT body. Another approach one could take is to have something like a Ricohflex Dia or Rolliecord for a lot of the normal lens work and then a C body with wide angle or short tele mounted ready to go if a situation presents itself.

thank you!

Since I bought my RB67, mine has also been used less. But I recently developed some elbow pain, so the C330 is being used more again. Thanks for watching! Glad you are feeling inspired!

Thank you for the kind words and the watch!

Yes. Gotta get a second job! Lol

More lenses always make the world a better place.

Thanks. I try to take care of it. Thanks for the watch!

Thank you. Much appreciated!

Good point. I made the video a year ago though and they don't let you add stuff and re-upload videos, so your comment will have to do.

I've never had this issue. Maybe someone else can chime in.

Yup. Thanks for the conversion.

180 is one of my favorites. I have a mix of blue dot and older lenses and the differences are not big. Congrats on the new camera!

I don't notice a huge difference, but sometimes I prefer the waist level.

It’s a similar experience for you?

I use an Epson V600 flatbed scanner. It gets the job done. Thanks for the compliments!

I agree. It's not a big deal (manual focus). I encourage everyone to shoot in manual focus so they learn that skill. Lots of photographers now just rely on the AF of their digital cameras.

preach!!!! If I ever heard someone complaining about manual focus I would lose it 😂

Thank you for the love. I started making a video for how to trigger the C330 but haven't finished it yet. I made a video for its bigger brother, the RB67. You trigger it the same way. The main thing you want to learn with your Elinchrom trigger is to turn off sleep mode. Modern triggers go to sleep to save batteries. The problem is, with your C330, it can't wake up the trigger like a modern camera can. So....turn off your power-saving mode. I think the rest of the ideas you could understand in the video I'm about to share. It's a Godox trigger example, but it's the same on your Elinchrom. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/iZmPbN2h1LG7Zn0.html

@@KevinDeal awesome that Kevin. Thank you 👍

Just watched that video. Great that mate. Really explains things properly and your detailed physical demo shows me exactly how to sort it. Brilliant that Kevin. Thank you again 👍

@@4053rubber Excellent. Glad I could help!

Literally any flash will be bright enough to shoot in low light. I would actually recommend getting a less powerful flash like a speedlight. Godox, Flashpoint, Westcott, all are great options. Here is a video I made on using flash with the Mamiya RB67. All the same equipment can be used on your C330. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/iZmPbN2h1LG7Zn0.htmlsi=eWSAJWi51l3O4axf

Sorry for the misunderstanding. It is episode 6 of my channel. I've only dedicated one episode to the C330. Thanks for watching.

It does not matter if you change lenses mid roll. The lock button puts a shield over the film when you change the lens. I'm not sure which blue button you're talking about. Are you talking about the blue dot that is on the lens itself? If it's not set correctly the lens will misfire.

It's my daughter's camera she just got and she gets blanks on a 55 mm lense. The shutter leaf...when not on the camera doesn't open but the other lenses do. Trying to determine user error or lense malfunction . Has successfully got Fotos for the 180 and 105

@@alankkoc if she's getting blanks, it sounds like the blue dot may be in the incorrect position. If it's not cranked correctly the lens won''t fire.

I don’t put it under anything extra when loading. Just put film in there and go.

@@KevinDeal good to know, thanks, so this means the counter is advanced by the crank alone.

@@andyvan5692 correct

I'm here to help! Basically think of it as a crop. As your see the bar move, everything below it is what will show up on the film negative. Everything above it will be cropped out.

Okay, thank you. I appreciate your clear response. @@KevinDeal

I don’t know man. What I understand is that the lever indicates exposure compensation as focusing gets the lens farther from the film

As the distance increases from the lens to the film, you are correct, exposure compensation should occur. And there is a number that indicates that. We are talking about the line that moves, which is related to cropping. Per the C330 manual (page 14) "When the pointer appears on the focusing screen, the upper portion visible above this portion will be cut off on the film. Be sure that the subject appears in the lower portion of this pointer."

@@KevinDeal just to be clear. there is a needle from the left for exposure compensation AND another line related to crop? mine must be defective, I don't see the later.

There’s a guy here in Austin. Eurotech Camera Repair

Mine doesn’t articulate. It’s fixed.

It was aimed at the amateur market, so it's definitely not a pro camera. I personally own two of them and haven't experienced the issues you did. I'm sure that must be frustrating. Digital is way easier. I definitely prefer to use my RB67 when I shoot film over the C330, but the C330 is nice when I want to have a lighter set up. Not having removable backs kind of sucks too. I may get a Hasselblad one day. Thanks for the watch!

Thank you. I own both. I shoot portraits and prefer the 105.

@@KevinDeal what about street photography? Is 105 more recommended too?

@@clarencepullman I would say the 80 is what I would recommend for street. Puts you right at 44mm if we are talking about the 35mm standard. Right between 35mm and 50mm, which are arguably the two most common street focal lengths. 105 may be too tight for some story telling scenarios. Perfect for what I do, which is shooting models.

@@KevinDeal oh I get it👍