I just love you working with the old blocks I'm I'm an old-timer too and I just love the small block Chevy The Originals

Nice detailed description, I might be considered strange, but I really appreciate the effort you are putting into this build and I find it extremely entertaining!

You're correct about knurling piston skirts as part of an old-school ring-and-valve overhaul. Pistons and valve guides were knurled, the cylinder ridge cut away, and oversized rings were fitted.

My favorite was a 1962 327 with 300 horsepower Impala. Absolutely love that car and it ran great

Brilliant. I so enjoy following these - Incredibly generous sharing of experience and showing what's possible. Strength to you sir.

Another great instructional video!

Thank you for this video. I did one of these 327s years ago. Those pistons look knurled to me.

I gave the vid a like because of the Psalm at the end.

great video no wasting time repeating your self strait to the point great planning your next step this will be a awesome engine and live a long time you tubers take note.

Yup, back in the day we knurled piston skirts to get another 20K miles. Some ductile iron rings in slight oversize and you were running 🙃

Knurled internal engine parts like piston skirts and some other parts that you found inside the engine was mainly done to help carry engine oil and was for the 50/60 series HD trucks to help the engine survive in those big heavy hauling trucks. This info comes straight from the gm tech service manuals

They make a oil filter adapter so you can use a spin on and not have to use the old style filter

You can use vinegar in the bores to get rid of, or loosen, the rust before removing the pistons. You can use it in the water jacket to remove rust also. If you are brave enough and careful, you can use a small amount of lye and water to remove rust from the water jacket. If you do that, wear protection and be very careful. The lye can turn your skin and eyes into soap.

Been building Chevy engines since 1969 (17 years old) Knurled Pistons alot on Chevy motors I built on the cheap that Did Not require boring to clean up, but I did hone the them for the rings (oversized or file fit)) I was using.

I like to watch you work! The choice between doing it and doing it really right has always been difficult for me. How's that saying about "the point of diminishing returns" go? The last 5% of performance takes 95% of the work and cost....

I use 283 SJ 283 block 68 block punch 4inch.30 over bore convert to 302 still driving my 66 truck camshaft elgin1024 camshaft heads 305 H O 601 casting

Great putting this old block back into service. If only it could talk!

See 👀 have lot experience love work

Spend a few thousand instead. Turn it into a Sonny Leonard 500ci iron sbc. Bore the water jackets open, sleeve it, and then bore the sleeves. Add concrete to most of the block and just water cool the heads. Run 60-70wt oil with good capacity and a big cooler. There was some other mystical magic that was involved and to be fair I believe he was using 350's & 400sbc's to make a iron 500 incher. Externally, you can make it look like your alpine green rebuild, and call it a 327, until they take a spin,,Muahahaha!! I hope your 327 dilemma worked out for you a year ago. EVERYONE should save all of them.

I'm redoing a genuine 1962 327/340 block I found on FB. It was cast in 1961 with no vin nos probably as a service block. Been sitting a long time with standard bore and only because of rust had to be bored .60 over but came with the very rare intake manifold, exhaust manifolds, dated heads and aluminum bell housing and original Duntov cam. (try to find that stuff!) It is for my 1962 340 hp Vette. I am putting some money in it but it will be worth it for the car it belongs in..Having thre trap door 6 qt. pan would have been the icing on the top but it was gone.

If you gonna to hone cylinders out, I would highly recommend slowing down your drill Or increasing the speed of your up and down stokes to achieve a better crosshatch. That will help on compression and also oil consumption. Cool video tho...327 and 283 are good motors

Forged crankshaft, and oil slots in the rod caps. Looks like a 65-66 engine. Check out the 2nd rings on those pistons. They probably have a thin shim spacer behind them from the factory.

I'm gonna say the bearing is .020 under sized and was made may 1982. Every clevvite bearing I've seen is date stamped month(5) and year(82)

No, don't nuralise the pistons!!! I did it and ended with piston slap. Wish I would have bought a new set.

What front assembly do I use far as alternator and water pump and power steering and pulleys do I use with 327 with double hump heads 62 to 65 gm motor

What piston ring gap set your piston gap allows 22 top ring second ring 14 ?

So, if a block has a crack in it, it's okay to weld it? Braze? How do you prepare for that kind of weld? Thanks much for the video. Thank you for sharing.

$100 buck set 601 cylinder head flo same as double hump 186

Great video. So many modem engines we see now days. The vast majority of small journal 327’s were low or average hp. The only difference, as is the same with most engines, was the pistons (dish or non) and the heads . Without even knowing the numbers I can tell u that this is a small journal block that prob came with small valve heads and ran about 245 hp. The 69 327’s were just a 350 block with a 307 crank. They were all low hp, by that time the EPA was interfering and manufacturers were forced to destroke and lower compression.

As long as you're replacing the crank may as well make it a 350.

What is the part number for that Hastings bore gauge sir. I would love to get one of those.

love your video! I have a chevy 350 that I want to freshen up without machining. I specifically want to replace the main and rod bearings to increase engine longevity. So regarding the rod bearings, can I just replace them, do the clearance checks, and retorque them without having to change the rod bolts/nuts? Its just a stock, average HP late 70' engine that is just a daily driver. Thoughts on this?

Different size engine blocks will be different measurements.

Pretty thick to be able to get down around the rings

I have a NOS 283 steel crank I been saving to put in a 327 block. Was the other 327 block standard 4 inch bore? Got big plans to build a 308 cube ( 327 block punched .030 with a 283 crank) for my 68 Camaro. Any interest in selling the other 327 block? P/S I like how clean you get everything. I do the same, but when I am sure everything is extra clean, I do it all over again just to make sure. I gave up on cleaning the block with a wire brush & solvent. Now I send it out to get baked and shot blasted, then into the hot water washing machine. Comes out looking like new.

Must be very low compression engine Most 327 I ever saw had flat top pistons Must be some of the last yrs of the 327. Get some 220 or 180 I inch wide paper A long shoe string ,rap it around the journal and polish away The main looks like some one put it together dirty

All things considered it's not that bad actually and certainly savable no doubt even that crank can be saved if the worst bearing was that front one it could easily be sent out to be ground ten under and your in business

I had to do something a couple days ago that I really dreaded and avoided for a long time...... involving headers. Are you going to use headers on your 327 project? Doggone it, they can be such a headache! My truck had headers when i bought it, so I've been forced to maintain them. And 2 days ago, I had to replace plug wires again. I broke down and bent one of the tubes, because it was practically touching a spark plug boot. Being one who hates to beat on things with a hammer, I thought you might like the solution I used: I used one of those screw-type ball joint separators (Harbor Freight Tools item # 99849) and a piece of flat bar. By placing the flat bar under the narrow point of the tool where I wanted the bend, I made the impression on the tube less concentrated, and the forked part of the tool was on the side of the tube I didn't want to bend. The force of bending the tube is so much less than the force needed to separate a ball joint, you can probably turn the bolt on the tool with a 3/8" ratchet and 19mm socket. I was very pleased with the way the tool fit to do this job and put the dent where it was needed. Now I just need to replace that collector with part of its flange burnt and rusted away - it's where the collector meets the gasket on the downstream side of the joint. Maybe at some point, you can share your philosophy on headers with us as you progress with the 327.

Hey man I just got a 49 fleet line deluxe and my clutch dropped to the floor so I’m going to change the clutch because everything else is fine I just don’t know if I have to take the trans off and if I do how do I get the torque tube

Excellent, but parts are expensive , connecting rods, I put sleeves in my progect

interesting. I don't know if I could measure the 1/1000 bore diameter....interesting. I bought a car and the engine is on a stand, the seller said bottle brush hone, not the stones.

I have a 327 with 42,000 original miles and power glide trans 275 hmp with ram exhaust manifold s couple bought car new she died from cancer he parked the car in barn it collapsed on car caved the top in I was fortunate to get motor and transmission

If not going to spinning 700 rpm 30 over main bearing be OK but if going twisting higher rpm not go over 10 /10 rod's and main bearing

I rather have 327 than 383 stroker I'm building my 327 set 292 angle plugs cylinder head I stick with Howard camshaft are elgin camshaft

i just know when you cut corners , in the end its still not what you really think it is

You should have talked to that guy about your extended warranty.

Good budget build but every 327 is have seen hads flat top pistons

Where is your workshop located?

You might actually get away with a good hone and a new set of pistons. heads you my as well buy a set a new set of iron heads already done, just paint bolt and go.

Was wondering where to get the bore brushes you used. I have a 327 block that came out of a hi-po engine from like 1966. I had the block acid dipped, bored and new cam bearings installed like 30 years ago, and never built. I also have a set of 461 fuely heads that I had a speed shop rebuild with stainless valves and all. They have been sitting for the same time period. All have a very light surface rust going on. I am going to try to avoid the machine shop also. The GM pistons I removed were domed pistons, but can't reuse due to boring. Any secrets to removing the surface rust without having the parts dipped? Thanks for the great videos.

I prefer.2-.3 thousand

I would NOT be the LEAST bit scared to turn that crank .040 undersized! You DO realize you have a forged crankshaft there??? (Wide journal parting line is a forged, thin parting line indicates a cast crank) very common for small journal to be forged. BOTH of your cranks look forged. Save a highly desirable forged crank that is still plentiful strong and further reduce bearing speed by going .040 under. It's a no Brainerd to me! USE IT. Btw 1 single groove in the crank isn't a problem... the issue is "how out of round" is the journal!! That's what will cause trouble. NOT the groove

Votech head 906 062 boats engine by hold 5.7 liter votech engine for$ 200.00 any boats shop by votech busted crack block $200 bucks used roller camshaft powder rod's I Don same thing my 400 sbc runs strong

dude start over with another block. i am doing a new 327. love the 327 for personal reasons it will be about 9,000 dollars. a crate 350 will be way cheaper.

i seen nothing absolutely trashed this is splitting hairs on something that would run longtime with just oil

don't do it 327 parts are no longer off the shelf. my 327 is like 9,000

Doesnt matter now but UA comin up 62-64 327 also 69 307

lime book: UA 69 307 200 2B,AIR,MT TRUCK