Something also worth noting about histograms: Your camera (and postprocessing software) display histograms based on the JPEG settings, not what the RAW file is actually capturing. If dynamic range is a concern for later editing of RAW images, it's easier to make more accurate judgements for exposure if your camera uses flatter profiles or picture styles.

They say green grass is generally middle grey for exposure. So you can generally expose for that. I have zebras on my camera, so spot meter and zebra generally works pretty well.

Great video! It was really helpful. Thank you!

Fortunatelly todays modern mirrorless cameras, (not Canon) have a feature called zebras which when you'll set them correctly they will blink on the individual pixels of your screen that are blown out highlights. So all you have to do then is adjust the exposure lower till those zebras are gone and your exposure is now set perfectly. The good thing about zebras is that they're basing their info on the RAW file itself and not by the jpeg preview like the histogram does so you can trust those regardless your jpeg profile even if the histogram shows to you that you're clipping highlights. But if your camera does not have zebras don't worry cause there's still a solution and that is to use a jpeg preview that you will set to the flattest profile like neutral/natural/faithfull and on top of that you will reduce the contrast levels to the max. After that take some test shots to adjust the jpeg profile exactly to the point that when you'll see your highlights just reaching and climbing the far right side of your histogram your raw file does not clip those highlights just barely. It will take a while to adjust that accordingly but when you'll do photography will become so much simpler cause now your brain doesn't need to put brainpower on perfecting the exposure or taking second corrective shots allowing you to concentrate more on the importand things like composition, capturing the decisive moment etc. Plus you're preserving the shutter mechanism from unnecessary clicks. Plus you will now be able to utilise the "expose to the right"(ETTR, google it's advantages) technique perfectly and without fear of clipping your highlights. For older cameras that don't have a live view preview or a live histogram is when you need to go back to the older techniques of guessing what the meter thinks of the scene in front you, like my oldie but goldie Canon 5D classic or my 1975 Pentax MX film camera. But today with zebras or a correctly adjusted histogram preview, photography has become so much easier and intuitive. We live in great times indeed

Some great advise as usual mate, understanding the exposure triangle and why your camera will over or under expose in certain circumstances is a vital lesson to understanding what is going on, as when you understand what is happening its easier to work out what you need to do to get the results you are after. Snow was always a good example if you just set everything to auto and try and take an image of the snow generally it comes out underexposed as the camera, as you said, tries to convert everything to 18% grey , but you dont want grey you want white so you would need to overexpose ( according to the built in meter ) to get the snow white again. It was a revelation to me when i first learned this and how to use a histogram to better effect than the built in meter. Thats why learning to shoot in manual mode is great as you have full control to get the results you want. Sure the people who invest in your workshops will come away with far more knowledge and confidence going forward and be able to really enjoy the art of photography with their new found knowledge. Hope your keeping well mate, take care !

Great in-depth explanation Dave, super informative. Enjoy the rest of your week!

Another well explained video Dave. After your last histogram video I did start to pay mine more attention, on most of my cameras (aimed at casual shooters), they are hidden away in the menus but are still there for those that want to use one.

Great video mate! This one has really blown up for you which is fantastic! Always well explained and easy to digest the information...despite what one commenter said below. Personally, I know all of the stuff you explain in practice, yet I could never explain it myself like you do, which is why i think these videos of tirs are so valuable. Heres to many, many more views on this one! Hope tou are well pal, chat soon!

Great advise. I would say some beginners don’t want to go into the menus as they maybe afraid of messing up the settings that are already in it and giving them an ok image. But great advice for photographers to pay more attention. But cameras these days give a good live view of what your image will look like and that’s a big help of beginners

Well I don't know what to believe anymore Dave, so many lies! 😂 Really interesting stuff though, although I feel like I understand the histogram, I never realised it's showing the actual totality of the pixels in your image. Makes sense why they extend out of the top of the graph now! Good stuff mate. 👍

Rubbish in rubbish out ! Great succinct description Dave ! Great advice for beginners indeed and well presented as always - always make me smile when I’m watching back A roll and I see people behind me that I never knew were there 😂 Chat soon and hope to get out again - all the best mate 👍🏻

Great vlog Dave, thank you. When exposure bracketing, do you set up in the menu system (i.e. 3, 5 or however many exposures) then just fire off the shutter, or do you use the histogram to expose once for the highlights, then a second time for the shadows? I’ve tried both and am wondering if using the menu is perhaps a little ‘lazy’ as it may be even less than a full stop to get from one to the other? Interested to hear your thoughts.

DR is so great a bad exposure is rarely a problem. An easy solution is using live view. I guess this video is for JPG shooters and total beginners. I paused the video @ 2:35, lol. nice.

Ok, but what if you want to take street photos and you don't have time for precise settings, and the lighting conditions change quickly. How can you achieve correct exposure in such a situation?

Great educational video. I'm not 100% on this, but I think a further lie is that the histogram in the camera is from a jpeg, not the raw image. Then what your histogram looks like can depend on the jpeg profile you're using.

Curious video as it spent a great deal of time describing the problem, with almost ZERO explanation of how to correct it??

I wanna see what you can do with that 760D and a kit lens. Anyone else?