JPEG; under 20mb and no more than 3840px on the long edge will ensure the best optimisation for retina screens. Portfolio will render down for 1080-4k screens. Front page images should be much smaller in terms of file size, less than 2mb, if you want to show up on search engines (your ranking will diminish if you over load the front page). Thumbnail or in-line images 720px long edge and less than 1mb. It's a weigh off between optimal image quality and load times, which is the same across all websites

@@LetsClickPhotography great thankyou so much, can you pls do a video on settings for exporting from Lightroom for different media (portfolio, instagram, Facebook etc) hthat would be amazing….

@@LetsClickPhotography great thankyou so much, can you pls do a video on settings for exporting from Lightroom for different media (portfolio, instagram, Facebook etc) hthat would be amazing….

Cheers mate :)

Thanks Lee, you too :)

JPEG; under 20mb and no more than 3840px on the long edge will ensure the best possible rendering optimised for retina screens and Portfolio will render down for 1080-4k screens. That said, front page images should be much smaller ie less than 2mb in order to ensure good load time - you'll get pulvarised by the search engines if you over load the front page. All the images I've used on the sample site are 1920px or less on the long edge and there's nothing heavier than 5mb on there....my thumbnail or in-line images are even smaller 720px and less than 1mb. It's the weigh off between optimal image quality and load times, but that is the same across all websites

Thanks mate, yeah they do....apart from the week after an update haha

How to move a gallery page position in adobe Portfolio

Hi Andrea, hopefully the short video I uploaded to show you this has been sent to you but if you've not had the notification you can find it here: kzfaq.infoWaKqazj7rTo?si=yzgU1944ODkpEkuq - hopefully it answers your question but let me know if I can be of any more help.

Thanks! All the ND filters I have ever used on the channel are the Zomei glass ND filters. However I use the Formatt Hitech holder and their poloriser. Generally though all resin filters will perform worse than their glass counterparts, its the reason why they are so much cheaper......however..... Most of the issues caused by the resin can easily be worked around. Contrast can be supplemented in post, colour casts can be rectified, small belmishes on the resin are rarely an issue because the the lens is never focussed that close, and even glass filters have differentials in their light stopping ability (ie a 10 stop often produces 11 stops or even 12). I've had some dealings with Formatt Hitech and found everything about them to be really good, from offering advice before purchase to after care (i broke something through lack of attention on my part and they just replaced it without question), so would happily recommend them as a company. Having had a look at their resin filter kit it seems like a good deal from a company that I would trust, so a decent choice for the first step into the world of filters without breaking the bank. Sorry I can't speak specifically to the filter kit itself but hopefully it's useful information.

Thanks so much Martin, would love to see it once you have it up and running, so do send me the link :)

Been a while but I started building a site using Framer AI (and never finished 🙆🏻‍♂️) I had also looked at this Adobe offering previously but again never completed it ! I think both times I’ve over complicated it - looked at your finished site and need to aim for something along these lines.

JPEG; under 20mb and no more than 3840px on the long edge will ensure the best possible rendering optimised for retina screens and Portfolio will render down for 1080-4k screens. That said, front page images should be much smaller ie less than 2mb in order to ensure good load time - you'll get pulvarised by the search engines if you over load the front page. All the images I've used on the sample site are 1920px or less on the long edge and there's nothing heavier than 5mb on there....my thumbnail or in-line images are even smaller 720px and less than 1mb. It's the weigh off between optimal image quality and load times, but that is the same across all websites

Brilliant, drop me a line back with the URL if you get around to it, I've seen a couple of your videos and would love to see your portfolio properly :)

@@LetsClickPhotography oh god!! You haven’t have you!! 😂😩 my vids are shocking mate 😂

Hi Joel. That's a whole topic in itself. Portfolio will render a maximum of 3840px on the long edge on retina displays so that is the maximum recommended resolution, the website is optimised to downscale for screens below that capability so that is a safe bet for best display. That said, larger images will impact on the performance of your site so I would only ever upload at that size on background pages, never on the front pages - slower load times impact your search rankings and site reliability. For me, I tend to half that size so 1920px on the long edge for full display gallery images (the examples in this video were that size or smaller) that can be clicked to display full screen. For front end pages, blog posts or pages where images aren't set up to be clicked I upload no larger that 1080px long edge. Thumbnail images will be a long edge of 720px or less. In terms of file size a maximum of 20mb (preferably less) for full display images and for front page images less than 2mb. This isn't particularly Portfolio websites specific, it's general good website practice; the weigh off between maximum presentation resolution and somebody never actually seeing the images because they took too long to load.

The trick with this lens is to utilise the focus distance switch on the side, especially necessary in dim light at close focus - switch it to 0.35-0.5m focus. And be aware that the minimum focus distance is 35cm so it will never be able to achieve focus at closer distances than that.

@@LetsClickPhotographythank you 😊 that makes sense

Hiya mate, missed this comment (plus I've been away myself for a couple weeks), hope you're having a blast. Honestly, the amount of images I have that I've never even looked through - purely for the fun of going out and snapping away, the real heart and soul of photography that is.....not every image needs to be a banger for the world to rejoice in its glory haha

It's been a while for me too - that image is from 3 years ago! Decided it was in need of a good edit after all this time. Using the HSL sliders in this way has really helped me with my colours (I think!). Thanks mate.

Cheers Craig, starting from a base of complete desaturation really helps me to 'see' the colours better, if that makes sense.

thanks, yes spot on, exactly that!

Thanks Robert. Yeah always lots more fun than at the desk - although sometimes more practical in post.

Thanks Charles, I've actually put a free to use toolkit on my website including a DoF and focus distance calculator. I'm going to run through it in a few videos but I'm hoping that it will be really helpful for folks out in the field.

Not to worry mate, I've always thought of you as being at wally level hahaha!!!!! It definitely has levels of pretentiousness to it. I'm probably more inclined to say 'create' myself, feels slightly less of a prat thing to say....although I guess I'll still be a prat! Thanks and yeah def, speak soon.

Thanks mate - yeah that first shot was a few years back now, always been a personal fave, was glad to have a reason to pull it out the archive.

thanks Mike

Hello, it would depend on some factors. With your current lens, I would suggest dialing the zoom to each of the focal lengths and seeing how you get on shooting each of the subjects you prefer at those focal lengths, stick to the focal length for a couple days of shooting each. You will likely find that one of the lengths will naturally fit your style better. However you will unlikely find a 'one-prime for all' lens. Example, my go to are 50mm street, 85mm portrait, 35mm group portraits and either 50mm or 100mm still life. And for street photography I find stm lenses can be a little slow on focus speed at times, usm lenses are much faster so use a 50mm EF usm 1.4 for that.

@@LetsClickPhotography Hello sir, thank you very much for your reply and suggestions🙏❤️👍

You just have to take a look at Ansel Adams to realise how much 'cheating' went on in the darkroom back in the day - there's several documents of him holding the 'sooc' print vs the 'darkroom' print....very different images indeed. It's well reported that he changed prints over the years, going back into the DR to manipulate the negative in different ways.

Hay Charles, thanks...next up (or maybe one after) will be the processing video

Thanks mate, yeah had a blast doing this