“It’s not that bad.” Yea its worse lol just junk it.

yeah when I first saw this mustang I thought why would you wanna acid dip that? it looks fine. Then I saw the aftermath and I was blown away by how rough it was.

@@joshuaramirez6121 I have the feeling mine is going to look this bad when I tear it down, 69 Grand Torino been in a barn for a few years.

Thank you!!

not really, mine for example is a canadian car its a 79 but in 79 most of the muscle cars cars were still solid, even up in canada here, still original quarters, just typical dash rot and toe boards, no structural damage, but i do agree that this thing here is a heap,

Thanks, Steve! I appreciate the support! Happy Holidays!

And all that for a pedestrian fastback. Not like this is a GT350. A lot of work to "do it right" ....

It’s in the restoration work that most DIY enjoyment is gained. Always save as much as possible in a renovation, without compromising safety. It’s also hard to claim true “numbers matching“ authenticity, when the numbers are just switched to new AMD (or other) panels, instead of original. But the budget usually dictates the restoration methods/hardware/quality anyway, regardless of intent.

Agreed

Agreed.

Agreed! I'm super happy with the results!

Agree...check out Peterson restoration. He sells new dynacorn shells rust free for 19,000. Keeps what he can and keeps the VIN. This is already 14,000 and he’s replacing all the parts and interior.

@@claymaness288 He usually asks between 22,000 and 30,000, depending on the options. And he doesn’t include an interior either. The body doesn’t look too bad in my opinion. I’ve definitely seen worse. It makes way more sense financially to just repair this one if he does all the work himself!

@@paulpichler hahhahaahahahahahahhahaahahahah

@@danhenry8557 What?

I agree with Paul. Most people scoff and walk at a little bit of work. This is a project car. With it stripped completely as it is, each section would take a day or less to repair and have ready for the paint phase. The most tedious part would be getting the sections on hand to weld in. As this is a mustang, everything is easily obtainable. This is not bad at all.

Hi John! Yes, agreed. I've got the car in the shop belonging to a client of mine, and they're going to be helping me out with the metal fab and restoration. Thanks again for the support: I really appreciate it!

It should be a rip!

He’s going to have to build a subframe and new front suspension because it won’t fit between the stock shock towers!

I kinda agree-this is a good bit of work for a unibody car. Although I currently have a project that’s way worse, but it’s a square body and parts are plentiful and has perfect frame rails.

As Neil Young said “Rust never sleeps”

Thanks man! I'm pumped to be working on it.

Ha! I like to think they are a pro now, maybe even stacking dimes for @Roadstershop or @Kindigit

Thanks!

You too! Merry Christmas!

New update coming next week!!

That's true, most wouldn't think about that step

Thank you! Cheers!

It's not that bad he can weld and fabricate one section at a time.

metaldipping.com

On. Every. Single. Panel. Crazy.

My frame rails are rusted through but it’s not that bad?!?! 🤷🏻‍♂️

LMAO

each part, in it's turn, replaced until only the VIN plate remains. Then, because it is too shabby, it to is replaced.

That's what I was thinking. Not even the inner structure looks decent enough to put new metal in it. That shell is just too far gone. He might want to contact the guy from Peterson Restorations...

I definitely don't see it that way, but I suppose everyone has their own level of comfort for projects like these.

Because then I don't have a Ford car? I like the idea of not owning a kit car, and I enjoy the restoration process.

Mine would completely disappear

They do this with drag car but they then tube chassis the car

pointless excersise , might be able to save the roof and some rear supports other than that all that clean metal and money are going in the scrap bin

Big issue is the rockers, they are galvanized and the acid dip takes that off and now the rockers will rust from the inside out. When you wash the car or it rains the water drains into the rockers. You need to prime or paint inside the rockers with a long wand or "soaker hose" that goes the whole length and sprays all around.

I don't actually agree with you because It is not a solid car when the floor and frame rails are rotted. Rockers have rot in them too. I personally don't think I would have gone the acid dip route since it was obvious that it needed a complete floor and front frame rails as well as aprons. Paying to clean what you are going to cut out anyway seems like an expense that was not necessary. I never quite trust how well they get the acid out of the pinch seams too. I always worry about issues down the road.

@@davebrittain9216 , That’s ok 👌 Any old Ford is a good foundation ,because every one thats saved isn’t lost to a junk yard,,, If the fella wants to rebuild a fast back MUSTANG back to original , by all means he’s got my vote 🤙

@@rockofagesusa7942 Ya I hate seeing them get crushed. Saw a video the other day of a guy cleaning up some old farm and he crushed about 15 mustangs, sad to see. I grew up with a family owned junk yard and saw way too many collectable cars go to the crusher. I have two 68 mustangs myself.

@@davebrittain9216 I agree , By the time you add up the costs of the dipping process, the panels required and the massive amount and cost of labor it would be cheaper and faster to use a Dynacorn 67 replacement shell. besides you're getting all brand new metal not 55 year old steel that has been eaten with rust and now acid. The Dynacorn uses heavier steel than stock was in 67 . Everything he is talking about you get with the shell. New doors already hung , New trunk lid already hung all included in the price of the shell. I don't see how all this work is worth it especially as he said this car is a base model and nothing special.

@@XA351GT You have a point but you have to remember the shell is close to 20k these days and by the way the metal is thinner than oem with most all Dynacorn panels. Here in Canada it is illegal to move a vin from one body to another so that would be an issue here where I am unless you fudged it.

Yes, a small one.

$14K got this??? Its a Mustang, for chrissake! I say this guy definitely got taken.

"Super happy with how it turned out" wtf half the car dissolved

I was about to say the same. I did not notice one element that does not require serious repair.

In terms of classic cars this is in fact in fairly good condition. You can find several projects involving ultra-rare cars which are restored from a pile of rust. They are making all panels for it from pictures. Here you can clearly see how it was originally, so you can do precise restoration much easier. Lots of work, yea, but for a car this old this is more than decent.

@@narancs5 no..its not...both front rails, part of the firewall, rockers, entire floor are all gone, inner/outer wheel houses, id even like to see the rear rails which he neglected to show... and thats not even including all the body panels which are pretty much useless other than that one fender, if this is fairly good condition than my 79 T/A would be in excellent condition that just needed dash corners and toe boards also passenger rear pan...wrong.. doesnt matter how old the car is because some cars rotted out on the ships to america..and ive seen cars 5 years old where i live with more rust than this thing..... this thing isn't worth 14k when you can purchase a brand new shell from a company in California for less than what you'd have into this heap...

They have nozzles that spray 360 degrees on a wand. That's mandatory for a chem dipped body.

1. I was undecided between the acid dip and a media blast, but decided acid dip to make sure that I got all the rust removed, even inside of the frame rails. 2. Paid $3500 for the dip. It definitely costs more than a media blast, but I feel like it was well worth it, given the condition of my car to start with. Thanks for the support!

By the time a project is that far along to figure out a new shell would have been a better option, it's likely you're already too far along to change gears! Ha! I'm happy I went the route I did. I like the idea of starting with an original car, not building one from scratch with new parts. To each their own, though. I definitely don't blame anyone who prefers the new metal route.

@@ClassicNation i agree, just from my past experience know costs add up quickly

Yeah, good call. I think we're going to do epoxy primer.

I'm doing a new hood and new deck lid.

I'm getting some help from some really experienced metal fab and body guys..

Thanks!

hanging the body by the A pillar would be a lot of stress on a complete car. the bare shell like you see it is less than 1000 Lbs & the A pillars are the strongest part of the car

All that new metal will cost him around 5,000. So it definitely makes more sense to fix this shell than to buy a new Dynacorn shell for $20,000. If he does the work himself, he won't have any labor cost either. Fixing is the way to go in my opinion.

@@johntylor8550, what do you mean by “he won’t have any labor cost” ? -my time is money. i guess it’s different for others ?

I'm not sure the details on the type of acid, nor the rust inhibitor that was used at the end. I had a vendor do the acid dip. MetalWorks in Eugene, Oregon.

@@ClassicNation , I understand. Great project, keep us posted and best regards