Climb Smart: Boulder Training Efficiency ⚡ | Tips & Tricks by Adam Ondra

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Күн бұрын

Let's download the AO TIPS & TRICKS leaflet for this episode ⏩ drive.google.com/file/d/1j6Bv...
Join me in the new membership section to get access to my next TIPS & TRICKS videos, earn special perks and enjoy bonus climbing content ⏩ / @adamondra
No matter what level you are climbing at, there are a few basic rules that apply to all climbers when training on a bouldering route. The ideal composition of a bouldering session should include 30 minutes of warm-up and 90 minutes of climbing. It is important to try out different profiles and styles that the bouldering area has to offer. Choose boulders that are just challenging enough so that you won't complete them in one attempt or that you'll struggle with and might not be able to top them at all. Take long breaks, at least five minutes, between each attempt. Never spend too much time on a single boulder problem. Leave what you can't climb for your next visit.
ENGLISH SUBTITLES AVAILABLE IN THE VIDEO SETTINGS
ČESKÉ TITULKY JSOU DOSTUPNÉ V NASTAVENÍ VIDEA❗
What do new Tips & Tricks videos on my KZfaq channel mean? ⏩ bit.ly/AO_Tips_and_Tricks
Check out the climbing holds designed by me and manufactured by @Euroholds ⏩ euroholds.com/AO-proline
Climbing shoes I use in this video: La Sportiva Theory ⏩
www.lasportiva.com/alpencore/...
Enjoy the new sweatshirts and T-shirts by Mammut with my signature on my AO e-shop ⏩ eshop.adamondra.com/ with starting discounts as well as my AO Photo Book, posters, photographs, cool signed brushes, and chalk bags I like to use the most❗
Timecodes:
00:00 - Intro
00:10 - ENGLISH SUBTITLES AVAILABLE IN THE VIDEO SETTINGS
00:59 - Warm-up
01:09 - Climbing warm-up
02:06 - Choose a boulder with easy, not sketchy moves
05:19 - Rest almost 2 minutes
07:27 - Try a variety of different styles of boulder problems
09:49 - Training part
11:50 - Subscribe = support
12:56 - Golden Bricks by me and @Euroholds
14:52 - Choose 5 to 10 boulders to work on
21:27 - Recap
23:07 - Download the AO TIPS & TRICKS leaflet
23:15 - Outro
Directed by
Vojta Ličko
Edited by
Kuba Sobotka
Starring
Adam Ondra
Special thanks to
Hangar Brno - @hangarclimbingplaygroundby8787
Euroholds - @Euroholds
Camera
Vojta Ličko
Kuba Sobotka
Production
Jan Verner
Jakub Pína
Kateřina Kuřátková
Graphics
Terezia Tuhrinska
Subtitles by
Jarka Marčeková
© Adam Ondra 2023
Songlist
Mountaineer - Paphos
Mountaineer - Sunglasses
Graceful Movement - Breezy Beats
#TipsandTricks #climbing #bouldering #adamondra #AO

Пікірлер: 282

@AdamOndra 7 ай бұрын

Hey climbers, let's download the TIPS & TRICKS leaflet for this episode for free ⏩ drive.google.com/file/d/1j6BvSNPJmZo2m9jc9vbhPXKqrUND9u-O/view?usp=sharing and join me in the new membership section for the next TIPS & TRICKS videos. The second one with Teresa is waiting for you there already.

@diegolera-lozano7092 7 ай бұрын

Do a video at B-pump if possible!

@stefanorossignoli 6 ай бұрын

Thaaaaanks!!!

@fennegvdgvd 7 ай бұрын

Easy warm up boulder, gets on a 7A. I knew it.

@emmanuelmiquet4508 7 ай бұрын

Ahah, yup, classic x) But really appreciated the kind and honnest word on beginners / whatever your level is, you can apply the tips, and we don't care about the number, weather it's 7c, 6a or even some 4, just go and climb ^^

@Mylada 7 ай бұрын

tbh 6A is closer to 7A than 7A to 8C+

@dab88 7 ай бұрын

was that really a 7A? Lots of holds and his fingers were in deep.

@fennegvdgvd 7 ай бұрын

@@Mylada yeah, it's an incredible gap. If your max level is 8C+, what is 7A anymore..

@franmartinruiz3662 7 ай бұрын

Yeees I was waiting for it too 😂

@fbimagesphoto 7 ай бұрын

The climbing community really is unique in that so many professionals are so openly willing to share their experience. From Adam’s typical bouldering session, the whole lattice training KZfaq channel, the free crack tutorials from the wide boyz, the hours of incredibly detailed analysis from Dave McLeod… It’s not taken for granted!

@chiz161190 7 ай бұрын

They don't do it for charity, you know ;)

@mysterioushoodedguy2332 7 ай бұрын

And Magnus is out there doing side quests

@rudolphteperberry3888 7 ай бұрын

I agree it's very cool but maybe not unique to climbing. My other main sport is trail running and I see the same there. I expect it's the same in a lot of sports.

@Clin270 7 ай бұрын

@@rudolphteperberry3888Would you mind sharing a few channels? :) I’m trying to get into a bit more different running than just asphalt or whatever I meet when I get out the door.

@elianechris7357 7 ай бұрын

@@rudolphteperberry3888 it is (also normal in other sports), a really nice trait of humans in my opinion

@zelpingk542 7 ай бұрын

man i love how Adam always has this little smile on his face when he talks about climbing, keep up the series!

@louisbayle9302 7 ай бұрын

As a senior climber, I feel like the non-climbing warmup movements are extremely important too, and I'd be very interested in such a session ! thank you very much, it is a great training lesson !

@Cruuzie 7 ай бұрын

My gym doesn’t usually bother to set boulder problems just for me, but I guess I didn’t realise I had to provide my custom designed holds. This will definitely help me progress.

@robertstone1218 7 ай бұрын

What an blessing to live in this era where I can watch in depth insights from Adam, Stephano, and Emil back to back to back. So informative and inspiring

@hahne9 7 ай бұрын

"Everything up to 8a, I consider as a warm up" 😅

@boogaloo4640 7 ай бұрын

He's so relateable 😏

@_renz0005 7 ай бұрын

Good job on the climbing comp just now, my heart dropped when you slipped on the lead climb. But you did great. Keep your head up my friend

@romanstinkt 7 ай бұрын

thanks for the spoiler

@riderdie1603 7 ай бұрын

This is really interesting. I am now curious what an endurance training session would look like. I basically only have been trying max power climbing at the beginning of the session with a high volume session to end it. This has worked well as someone who’s only been climbing a year and a half, but now I can see I need to focus my training more to keep progressing. I will try incorporating sessions like this a few times during the week.

@TheMiddleWayWithRay 7 ай бұрын

That's the best explanation of warning up. I've always been confused about warming up. Thanks

@augustepugnet5407 7 ай бұрын

Love the concept, thank you ! Could you do the ultimate climbing test like Magnus did ? :)

@boogaloo4640 7 ай бұрын

But he already knows he can climb 9c

@augustepugnet5407 7 ай бұрын

@@boogaloo4640 that’s mostly to get more metrics on how strong he is, especially weighted pull ups and finger ! As a benchmark.

@adriensourdille1241 7 ай бұрын

what a great idea august! The people wants to see it

@isabellegarnreiter9327 7 ай бұрын

let's goooo

@Rock_Appreciator 7 ай бұрын

Honestly, I thought I was a bit goofy for climbing randomly, stretching a lot, and just standing and feeling the rock and holds before every session. Kind of almost messing around to some degree vs. actually sending. Glad to see Adam does it too.

@Kaygu_ 7 ай бұрын

Super excited for this tips & tricks series!

@IzzyIkigai 7 ай бұрын

I really appreciate the "english subtitile available" and also saying that they are. Not enough people care as much as :)

@balakingston4684 7 ай бұрын

extremely grateful for this Adam, thank you

@veselinkolev5105 7 ай бұрын

Adam, con mi hijo hemos empezado escalar gracias a ti. El tiene 7 años, yo 38 y queremos ser fuertes como tú!

@AdamOndra 6 ай бұрын

Hola ¡Me encanta leer esto ahora! ¡Buena suerte y entretenimiento escalando a los dos!

@michaelbonnet2155 7 ай бұрын

great video. a short in-depth of the non-climbing warmup would be cool to see.

@ivojonker 7 ай бұрын

Really good video, gives some perspective on questions I had but couldn't get answered! Hope you'll do more of these!

@Hruuu-fh1jh 7 ай бұрын

Great, let's go to be member-bros! :D Excited as hell!

@FloTheUIM 7 ай бұрын

As a beginner, this is great! Plenty of tips to add to my routine/sessions :) cheers big O!

@naheedhassan9037 7 ай бұрын

This is golden and no better way to start the week! Thank you Adam!

@fx__________ 7 ай бұрын

this was awesome, simple and really helpful. can't wait for another video! Thanks Adam

@Will-lo8ji 7 ай бұрын

That back flag kick off the wall at 6:16 to generate momentum from high foot is so dang cool! I feel like I often end up in similar position and try to pull through. Stoked to try this next session!

@escapevelocity8092 6 ай бұрын

Joy to watch, nice chilled pace but with loads of practical advice and tackling of immense problems! ❤

@l3ob-Ross 7 ай бұрын

Great video! looking forward to the next one. Very educational, i will try adapting these tips to my bouldering sessions. Thanks alot Ondra and crew!

@aleksandratrzcionka8973 7 ай бұрын

I do appreciate you wearing a mike, so we can hear that you are actually working hard on those problems. You make everything look so easy it's good to know I'm not the only one making noices while climbing :)

@remy1684 7 ай бұрын

Great episode ! Can't wait to see how a session of lead climbing looks like for Adam Ondra ! Also surprised by myself, I was already aware of many things that make a bouldering session efficient. Thanks for the video

@zivotvkrosne2132 7 ай бұрын

Great! Thanks for this and see you in your crew!

@philleng480 7 ай бұрын

Nice one Adam, great to share what your training strategies are - confirming what most of us should know anyway.

@luisteixeira6156 7 ай бұрын

It's really nice to see this kind of video coming from you! I definitely want to see more! Also, I think you can improve your content a lot as you do more and more of these. Besides, you have great friends in the youtube community that can help you that! Great video 👍

@b.j.krautermann6802 6 ай бұрын

I'm halfway through the video and i'm so glad the algorythm suggested it. It's so relaxing and informative to watch and the type of editing is also great. Props :) I think it would be great to have a similar Video on a typical grip strength session (hangboard etc.)

@sergiogonzalezcancela4802 7 ай бұрын

He climbs so fast whenever he tries hard like at 17:12 that you might think the video is sped up. That velocity you don't see it in anybody else and is amazing.

@stefanorossignoli 6 ай бұрын

Thank you Adam! Waiting for the next video! I enjoied climbing like hobby 18 years ago and just one year ago I understood warming up and resting importance!!! Very happy to heard by you the same!! Ciaooo!!

@Jchongsends 7 ай бұрын

Seeing Adam fall on a 7B slab gives me hope 😆

@Maggie.s.p.242 7 ай бұрын

thank you, Adam, you inspired me to go again to the climbing hall. Just like you said, I also enjoy bouldering like a warm - up exercise. without having to impress anyone, just enjoying my moves.

@Hhkkvh 7 ай бұрын

Love the video!! Would be awesome to see more of these videos where you explain your trainings/ warmup / stretch program so we can learn from the best :))

@karelkarel958 7 ай бұрын

''typič - aahh, iteresting, i was pretty sure i was gonna do it''

@davidenkel6675 6 ай бұрын

Hej Adam, thank you for sharing such nice content. I really admit that listening to your body/instinct while climbing is more important than exactly follow fix rules and plans. Therefore I really like your access. All the best, Dave

@one-o-four8541 7 ай бұрын

Very interesting! Looking forward for the next episode. Can,t wait!

@Julian-Boulders 7 ай бұрын

At 5:05 there's a guy wearing a Radium Arcadium shirt from Maastricht's bouldering gym. Nice to see someone from here in Adam's video! Of course it's also nice to get some insight into Boulder efficiency from Adam, especially his warm up strategy.

@shinywalrus8856 7 ай бұрын

I did this warm up and I finally got my first V5. I haven’t felt like I have progressed until I got the V5.

@kamilbeelidebelfort3319 7 ай бұрын

Great Adam! Thanks a lot! Very helpful.

@guitarmaniac 7 ай бұрын

Yeah same with me. Up to 8a easy warmup

@harrisontrakilovic6766 7 ай бұрын

Great vid, thanks for the tips. More please!

@MrJojoxD 7 ай бұрын

Nice video Adam! Could you make a video on how to train power endurance and endurance? It is always difficult for me to know how to separate these two specific training sessions and to plan them.

@alexvesco9043 7 ай бұрын

This was really useful... thank you Adam 👍

@andrearossi7741 6 ай бұрын

Fantastic video, really really clear and well done. Not always a great athlete is a great teacher, well Adam you’re the best climber and also a very smart teacher. Thanks

@julienguetty788 7 ай бұрын

Love this series of videos. Definitely I can relate !

@DaCo8311 7 ай бұрын

Beautiful format. Thank you

@brutus-raf 6 ай бұрын

Great video with a lot of useful tips! Thanks Adam!!

@47s18 7 ай бұрын

Great video Adam! More of this please :)

@sarazzielh6518 7 ай бұрын

Thank you for those tipps 😊

@nextgeneration4578 6 ай бұрын

thanks adam, we wanna see you climbing in the next one

@arnauddandurand6531 6 ай бұрын

Merci pour ce partage ! Une bonne pédagogie pour une seance d'entraînement claire. Bonne continuation à toi.

@petterho 6 ай бұрын

Granted it's only a warm-up but I love that one of the most replayed areas in this video is the massive dab at 6:20. Awesome video!

@ivanpaskalev9863 6 ай бұрын

Thank you for sharing your amazing experience! Would love to see something familiar for route climbing 😊

@nbIxtean 6 ай бұрын

Thank you Adam for creating this series of tips and tricks. It is very refreshing to hear all this advices from the best climber in the world. Hope to hear some thoughts on mentality and how did you overcome any downfalls if you had any.

@simonedelpinto4613 6 ай бұрын

Ty Adam ! nice video!

@digitalsmear 6 ай бұрын

Love it! Thank you for sharing.

@hugocreeth9469 6 ай бұрын

Fantastic video!

@user-pv1dp4bz3j 7 ай бұрын

Thank you Adam! It will help me become better

@achjo123456 6 ай бұрын

Great viedeo, thank you Adam, please continue with these "courses"..it is really helpful for us..🙂

@sewerynkaczmarczyk6113 6 ай бұрын

I like this tips & tricks section. Awaiting for more videos :)

@robdb1993 7 ай бұрын

Great vide as usual !

@lucagiordanodrum 6 ай бұрын

Thank you so much for the tips! 😀Very precious! 👍

@jorgenavarro46 4 ай бұрын

Wow, really good advices Adam. Thank you very much. Cant wait for next episode! 💪

@AdamOndra 4 ай бұрын

Glad you liked it! You can watch more Tips & Tricks episodes and get more advice in the new KZfaq membership ➡️ kzfaq.info/love/8eNyF9eYwgr_K-Nl4gSHWwjoin. See you there!

@alexandrexavier1632 6 ай бұрын

Great video! It would be really nice to see your strategy when approaching a project on the rock as well!

@juliangrube6319 7 ай бұрын

Danm I really want to try holding the 50^ block now

@flobosstube 6 ай бұрын

Great video, thx Adam !

@tuffythumper6676 7 ай бұрын

Super interesting ! I totally agree, warming is so cool to feel good mentally and physically (at least for me), not just to warm up.

@Leander_ 7 ай бұрын

Hi Adam, great video, thanks! For the editing/visuals, a small tip is to give the text a black border or a semi transparent background to improve legibility. Now, occassionally text bled into the background.

@AdamOndra 7 ай бұрын

Hey, thanks for the input. We'll consider it. AO Team

@donkyuhbuhts540 6 ай бұрын

This was legit a really good and practical video.

@tomasjanda451 7 ай бұрын

Čau, supr video. Jakožto začátečník ocením každou užitečnou radu. Musím určitě zlepšit warm up a nezkoušet těžké nebo riskantní Bouldery. dneska jsem se zranil :) velký skok a natažený sval na lítku. Děkuji za tipy a budu se těšit na podobné videa a moc ti fandím kámo.

@skater5008 7 ай бұрын

Would love to see a video on mental preparation! Ways to focus, confidence level, preventing frustration and burnout, etc.

@leoingson 7 ай бұрын

This is actually the most interesting question, since it's Adams main strength, in my opinion.

@mysteriousdovesen 7 ай бұрын

Thanks!!!

@JASQNT Ай бұрын

Managed maybe one 7a in my life!! Great video!! ❤

@yourfriendsquid9199 6 ай бұрын

Great video, I'd love to see a power endurance bouldering video at some point in the future. I climb once a week, in a 90-minute session and I usually climb with minimal rest to try to maximize endurance training. I want to try and add more sessions during the week to try and balance it out but I'm curious to know how many times a week you think someone should train. Your insights into the sport are incredibly helpful and very much appreciated.

@pankajsingh-bw8op 3 ай бұрын

All I want is to finish a boulder and have Adam say , 'Well executed '.

@KINGJEREMY6666 7 ай бұрын

This is amazing ❤

@morniclegreen3534 6 ай бұрын

Gotta love those 7a warmups!

@argentumcitizen 3 ай бұрын

thanks Adam!

@LumpyGents 4 ай бұрын

This guy is climbing V7s and V8s as WARM UPs. This guy is climbing what most people will peak at in their climbing AS WARMUPS.

@Vejteho 7 ай бұрын

Moc děkuji za takové videa od vás všech profíků co tvoříte, moc to pomáhá hlavně takhle pro mně když začínám. Lezu 3 měsíce svoje boty mám ani ne 2 měsíce a lezu obtížnosti V4 označené u nás v Budějicích na stěně což odpovídá asi 6C? Ale tyhle videa co vznikají mi pomáhají se posouvat, takže ještě jednou moc děkuji.

@drglobule8a Ай бұрын

The waiting in between tries is so hard to respect, but so efficient... I still have to warm up properly though, but then it's only been 20 years!

@po_2_banane 7 ай бұрын

Nice video i love the concept you should do it more

@tylerr2126 7 ай бұрын

Thank you!!!!!!

@karlmatillano8705 6 ай бұрын

Thank you, this is very helpful as a beginner

@WisdomThroughGod 6 ай бұрын

Thanks adam!!

@KalebSDay 7 ай бұрын

Adam with the tips to help us reach "new heights" haha :D

@pavelbelik6174 7 ай бұрын

Maybe bringing back Kuba Novotny and Dr. Cumpelik for an episode and go over some less talked topics concerning general movement patterns? You had a video with them back in the day and it was super interesting! It was the episode #26 on how to move properly.

@gavyndame3700 7 ай бұрын

Legend as always stay strong

@bb1039 6 ай бұрын

really good, thats a great investment from sponsors to have you do this (as some have coined Masterclass, and charge money) good way to give back and stay in the game you love. Nxt lead climb training :-)

@lacriptodevan5527 7 ай бұрын

Buen video Adam!!!

@Lob4N 7 ай бұрын

Zrovna v pátek jsem byl si byl poprvé v životě vyžkoušet boulder a lezení obecně (v Hangáru v Ově), tak se mi tyhle rady budou moc hodit super :-). Chtělo by to i tipy co se týče předejití zranění kůže na prstech, případně její ošetření (dost by mě zajímalo jak toto řešíš na závodech). Mě se teď stalo, že mi nakonci lezení už na jednom prstu nevydržela, tak tipuju že to bylo tím, že jsem cvičil napoprvé příliš dlouho popřípadně to bylo absencí magnézia. PS: Chtělo by to pro začátečníky trochu lehčí bouldery v Ově . Nevím jestli je 5A dobrej start :D.

@tono971 6 ай бұрын

Co sa tyka tej koze, tak u zaciatocnikov je casto problem, ze tie chyty prilis "rvou". Potom aj to, ze ta koza nieje zvyknuta na takuto zataz. Ked budes chodit pravidelne, tak koza sa ti prisposobi a naucis sa aj ako liezt setrnejsie k prstom.

@Lob4N 4 ай бұрын

Jojo. Po 2 mesicich lezeni uz je to fakt rozdil :D. Vicemene lezu ty dve hodky a zatim jsem si kuzi znova nestrh :) kazdopadne jsem se do toho zamiloval :D

@shengaminguk6973 7 ай бұрын

I spend days (possibly weeks) trying to send a 7A, and he does it as a warm up haha

@BlackMagicMan 3 ай бұрын

Great video Adam, I was wondering how different would your session be if you have already completed most of the boulders in your gym as in this video you visited a gym with a lot of new boulders.

@KMoscRD 7 ай бұрын

I like the way you verbalize your experience, knowledge and idea. We move on the information we learned - books, experience. Knowledge system slows down belief system - source of constraints, freeing space for imagination and new knowledge and experience - visualisation processes get better with mental training. “If it disagrees with experiment, it’s wrong. In that simple statement is the key to science.” - Richard Feynman Climbing is science experiment of psychology, regulating biological processes, physics, math and use of cognitive skills pre, during and post climb - senses, inteligence, balance - orientation in space, bilateral integration - synergy of two sides of nervous system - forming coordinations, memory shapes, colors, its orientation in space as well us performing specific task, anything that's task related. Just it's all about relationships of all systems in the body acting as whole performing movement. Strategies to organize information might be different, but overall it's all about information and its instant access in movement. It's all about predicting and probability as well. Ecosystem of climbing good is when the knowledge dominates over beliefs, thus finding climbing diamonds to be polished into best possible versions.