Thanks for watching. I know most people are looking for a quick fix and don't want to spend 20 minutes watching a video to get 10 minutes worth of information for a repair that should only take 5 minutes. We are all too busy for that nonsense. Thanks for taking the time to leave a great comment and hopefully I'll see you down the road. Peace.

@@HNXMedia Yes, great and to the point. I didn't have to FF through what tools you didn't have or what you did last weekend or other crap. thanks

@@MrYlojelo I figure my job is to help people, not give my life's story. This channel is not about me, it is about helping others. Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a positive comment. Peace.

Glad it helped. Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a great comment. Peace.

Glad it helped

Sweet! Super glad I was able to help and that it worked out so well. It is all about saving those dollars for something more fun. Peace.

Glad the video was helpful and got you back up and running.

Awesome! Hope it helped. Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment. Peace!

Casey Hill Glad you enjoyed. I'm a bit of a wildlife fan - feed the squirrels on my deck everyday. Check out our Instagram for more such photos (promise, no "fashion poses" - just critters, puppies and projects). Hope the video helped. See my other response as well for more info on the "reving" issue. Peace.

Nice! Happy to help. Keep riding!

Hope the video helped. Stay well. Peace.

Happy to help.

LOL. Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a great comment. Hope the video was helpful. Speaking of squirrels eating, how about this one: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/bZhiareCvru4naM.html

Much appreciated! Hope the video was helpful.

Hope the video was helpful. Time to get back out on the trails! Stay well.

No problem. Hope it was helpful.

@@HNXMedia it was no more rolling down the driveway!

Yes, I believe you just back the nut all the way out and replace the bracket. Haven't seen a vid on it, but it seems rather straight forward. Best of luck.

This is not as precise as actually opening the rear b and adjusting the internal mechanism, so it really doesn't matter (at least it never has for me). I always did it on flat ground though, just to avoid "excess" torque/drag.

I pull then lever up to get a feel for the "tension," then I put it down and make the adjustments, then I pull it back up to check the "tension" again and keep doing that until it holds correctly. So, to answer the question, while making the adjustments, the handle is down. However, that being said, I know some folks leave it up the entire time they make the adjustments. I like to get a "feel" for how the brake sets and holds. Hope this wasn't just a confusing mess of an answer. Best of luck. Peace.

MrElPoderozo1 I think if you replace the entire line like that, you might have to adjust the ebrake inside the rear wheel hub. This is a secondary location where you can make more major adjustments. I have never done a video on that, but there are a few on YT. Search: Wrangler EBrake Rear Wheel Adjustment and you should find some. Best of luck!

@@HNXMedia Thank you and thanks for replying. 👍🏽

The only other way I know how to adjust the e-brake is through the rear drums. You can adjust the tension in there through the access port at the bottom of the rear drums (underneath with a screwdriver - don't need to remove the wheel). Or you can remove the rear wheels and open the drums and adjust them, but fair warning, it is definitely the hard way - but it might save you some cash.

​@@HNXMedia thanks! I did that earlier today and it seems the left tire got real tight, while the right one didn't really work. Seems the mechanism (idk the name) isn't holding enough pressure but if I tighten the right drum more, it'll start messing with the brakes. Again, thanks for your help.

Not that I can think of. I think the only reason that would happen is if you over tighten the e-brake adjustment and the computer thinks the brake is "on" all the time. I cannot think of any switch in line at this part of the process. Maybe near where the brake handle is, but you would likely need to remove the center console to get to that. Good luck and let me know how it works out. I am very curious now. Peace.

This happened to me in my Jk. Turned out to be low brake fluid. Hope this helps

If you "over-tighten," usually, the only thing you will notice is the back brakes squeaking all the time. Then all you need to do is back it off a little.

That is a 2003. I have not worked on anything more "modern."

Casey Hill That sounds like a vacuum line issue (I have had exactly the same thing but typically only when it has recently rained or it is super humid outside). Vacuum line breaks/cracks are super hard to track down. I plan on replacing all of mine this Spring (I'll make a video when/if I do). If the dealership thinks it is the "brainbox," those are SUPER EASY to replace on most vehicles. You can get a used one online for less than $100 (usually). I did a video on replacing the "brainbox/CPU/ECM" on my Toyota Echo. The entire process took seven minutes (no joke) and cost about $80. Mechanic wanted over $600 for the same job. Hope this helps. Peace.

2012??? I ain't the Rockefellers! This Jeep is 17 years old, and is the NEWEST vehicle I own. I've never dealt that new fangled, fancy technology they put in them 2012 models.

It should be the same, but I cannot know for sure since I have never worked on a 2013. Thanks for watching. Peace.

@@HNXMedia Unfortunately, it is not.

@@NadeemAhmad-ob5ej Sorry to hear that. Hope you get it fixed soon. Peace.

The only other way I know to adjust them is through the rear brake drum. You can adjust them without removing the wheel through the access port (covered with a rubber plug) on the bottom of the inside of the break drum. Or you need to remove the wheel, open the brake drum and adjust them by hand/feel. That is a bigger job than I am willing to get into right now, but if I do it anytime soon, I'll make a video. Best of luck. Peace.

thanks man I’ll try that first see what happens

@@felixdominguez4114 Stop back by and let me know how it goes.

Will do man I just subscribed too

@@felixdominguez4114 Very much appreciated. Peace.

People are telling me the "newer" models cannot be adjusted this way. I have no idea, since this 2003 is the newest Jeep (and vehicle for that matter) that I own.

Short answer, yes, it should COMPLETELY disengage the emergency brake. But I am not a certified mechanic and I am not saying that doing so is safe. Best of luck.

@@HNXMedia i tried that, backed it off like 5 turns and the light stays on, i jumped in and tried to move the jeep but it still felt as if the shoes are still grabbing slightly in the rear. i need to pull my wheels off and inspect but i have to get it to my shop where i work at

@@slappygilmore5040 I understand better now. Yep, the rear drums are locked on. You might be able to decrease the tension on those by accessing the drum through the screwdriver port on the "inside" underneath the the rear hub (both sides). Search "adjusting emergency brake at rear drum." Note, It is a total pain to do it this way. The only other way will be removing the wheel, drum hub and then adjusting from the inside. Best of luck.

@@HNXMedia i have a sahara with 4wDisc brakes, will they have that same port?

@@slappygilmore5040 They should. It will be on the bottom of the inside of the brake drum/hub (i.e. you have to be under the car to see it. It will likely be oval and have a rubber "cap/insert" to keep mud and water out.

LOL. Hope it helped. Back to the trails. Peace.

If I could afford a fancy 2015 Jeep, I wouldn't have all these cool videos about working on my 2003.

@@HNXMedia thanks for great videos,I just now saw how obnoxious my reply came off,sorry. Yes for some dumb reason at some point,they stopped providing adjustment on actual cable,yes have confirmed this elsewhere,some have done own fix

@@josephblough5856 No worries. Glad you got yours up and running again. Now you can get back on the trails. Safe travels!