That was an awesome diagnostic process! Definitely a lot of manual labor involved, but so satisfying to see the CAN network come back to life :)

Fantastic explanation of your troubleshooting methods! Great to mention that modules can interfere with one another! People often forget that a BUS is a shared resource that any module can mess with.

WOW! Thank you so Very Much! I've been pulling my hair out trying to figure this same problem out. And, also I had a problem with the Tailgate Lift & it would not open manually. Not sure if that was also a problem with your customer's vehicle. I bought this 2008 T&C with a "3 day warranty" ,, UGH! I called Dealers and friends to find an answer. I was stuck away from home with this problem. 6 hours later, when I happened to pull the driver's side cargo door closed... Boom! everything lit back up and the van was back to normal. Next day(today), the ghost was back again. And you have now kept a grown man from crying! Thank you so much. I was asked if the van had been in a flood, because that causes some wonky things to happen. You were very educational, but WAY over my head. Thank God that you put this video up, and I can be helped a year later. And thank your customer, too.

Thanks for this video. Had the issue pop up the day my Caravan turned 100,000 miles. I found this video and started by disconnecting the rear DVD monitor and ac. The DVD monitor was causing the No Bus code. Saved me tons on dealership diagnostic costs. Excellent video!

very good your videos! Another easy way to identify problems in the Can network would be to turn off the “star connects”, so you can identify which module is bringing down the network

Thank you so much for this video, you probably saved us 100s of dollars at the repair shop. We have a Town and Country S minivan that had the same problem. It started after washing the vehicle. The problem was the drivers side rear door where the connection got wet from power washing. Again, thank you!!

Nice fix. Good thought process and explanation of your work. One slight shortcut is that you can unplug each front door in the jamb without having to pull door panels, saves a few precious minutes

You sir, are an automotive deity! This was 100% the problem with our 2016 Grand Caravan. I fixed the problem in about 10 minutes max

Bravo Sir. This video needs to be noticed ASAP. Wonderful presentation. I'm just scratching my head about not having splices. That radio interface to me looked like Chrysler's powerNet thing they have going on where the splices are under the glove box tucked up in there. I know the Darts have them. But u were there present at that time so I'm pretty sure u are right that it didn't have splices. Bravo again Sir. Hope the big dawgs in the KZfaq world take a look at this. Bless 😇

Holy crap! This video saved my life! (I may be slightly exaggerating) How could I have possibly known that ONE tiny broken wire in the driver's side slider could cause such a mess! Thank you! Thank You! THANK YOU!!

This topic is intimidating, if only because of the specialty tools and the way communication is more complex than simple power and ground. However the more I think about it, basic principles still apply. It is also helpful in some systems to have end module resistors in parallel to allow a multimeter to measure resistance and infer the status of the wires (open, short, or good). The worst of this for general mechanics is the lack of normal values and poor communication of those standards in the dealer repair manual. In the end, your theme to disconnect modules one at a time and watch the signal seems to be reliable and systematic. I'm gonna have to tap into these circuits a few times to better appreciate how they work in normal vehicles. Another brilliant video, Eric.

The front doors have a connection that's easy to unplug, where the door wire loom flex thing meets the frame. Seems easier to just quickly unplug the whole thing for the door test and go further if signals change 🤔 I bought an 08 Caravan super cheap and it stunk really bad! I got lucky and noticed the whole interior CAN would cut out when the door was open as I scanned it with the door open...it was so gross smelling but improved with the door shut, it also had a door module code. I could also see the wires in the door flex were installed backwards by someone and jamming the wires in the door as it closed. Made for a nice easy problem to spot, a week before I wanted to go on a 3000km trip. I even had time to shampoo it and drive around to verify the fix. Both CAN lines shorting to each other and 8 bad wires in total where the door wires flexed. Thanks for the great detailed videos on everything, so much to learn 😊

I'm sure you (and your customer) wished the first module you tried was the bad one!! I'm working on a different Chrysler product, but the troubleshooting procedure remains the same. My CAN bus lines show continuity between TIPM, Cluster, radio, etc, but does not show any resistance between the two lines themselves. I also see comms on the bus, but the cluster still shows "no bus". My car remains something of a mystery, but you gave a good explanation, and I appreciate the extra effort it takes to make the video.

INCREIBLE!! Gracias por compartir Este video , anoche mi carro Dio todos esos problemas y vivo en un lugar donde hace mucho calor , no tenia aire ,no bajaban los Vidrios , no tenia radio , luces . Este video merece un million de likes . Un abrazo .

Just finnished doing my Smog Update CAN Communication Diagnostic Course, I thought this was an AWESOME Video... You are a great teacher and very knowledgeable and it's the best explanation I have seen... Thankyou Keep it up...

Our 2011 t&c started doing the same as the one in your video, seems to have started shortly after we went through a self carwash.. it goes away at times but comes right back.. three shops have tried finding the problem with no luck..the dealer was one of them.. They tried selling us a new one instead.. though charged over 200 dollars for basically nothing..i tried disconnecting the roof and no luck... Thank you anyway for the video, it gives a lots of encouragement , i will try disconnecting the rear sliding doors next..thank you 👍

Best video I have found for understanding BUS & Module systems Thank you

Super in depth and I don't have the fancy equipment to take advantage of all the knowledge you just shared but I sat and watched the whole thing anyway. Really nicely done video.

Man just bought a 2013 doung the same, that was extremely valuable knowledge...excellent Job sir.

Here is an idea you can try in a future "No Canbus" scenario. Basically connect only a positive external +5vdc supply to the Canbus reference line; no negative, or no ground connection from the 5vdc supply. Connect a 5v volt step-down voltage-regulator to the car battery, while keeping the car battery connected to the car. Then connect only the positive 5v output lead from the voltage-regulator to a known Canbus 5v-reference wire within the car. The Canbus should "come alive". Now connect the OBD scanner to determine which module is at fault.

That’s a great find, thing is with these kind of faults they are so time consuming( I do it every day)but the customer just doesn’t see it ... well done 👍

Excellent video with a very good explanation of all your troubleshooting procedures and the reasoning behind them and what we were observing while you were doing them. very well put together thank you for your time and knowledge. 👍

Awesome video. Our lights went out on our van as well as other goofy things, and after researching causes, I came across your video. I then disconnected the DVD module and it all worked again. Thank you!!!

Thanks for the video! Sad that the engineers created something so complicated to run down the issue. A plastic module that in the cost of the Toal car is pennies on the dollar cost hours of Mechanic labor. With technology I hope they can create something that once you put it on the scan will tell you EXACTLY were the problem is so the auto owner doesn't have to pay hours of labor to find a $5 part that malfunctioned. Yet I am so thankful for the video it was very informative Seems to be a Chrysler, Dodge Jeep issue for sure.

exelent information thank you : one thing l didn't understood is how the scanner was communicating when the braker box was connected to obd at same time .

I worked on my cousin's T&C van, similar issues with all of the devices in the vehicle when you would close the door when running. I found the proximity (collision) sensors in the rear bumper corroded and corrupting the bus signal, disconnected them and everything went back to normal, we left them that way because they were $700 each! They were the same part number as some Mercedes cars. I also worked on a 2014 Chevy truck with a totally dead bus, a critter had nipped a wire in the harness near the rear shock, critters are a big problem in the last dozen years.

Great video. Having simular issues with 14 Town and country. Saved me hours. Thx.

Great diagnostic skills, I learned a lot watching your videos.

Nice work, especially for your first time! Enjoyed watching your logical approach. I will give just one time saving tip. After you compete your car auto scan, you can press report down around the bottom of the screen to see all codes in one page, at the same time, that way you won't need to go in and out of each module to check for codes. Really enjoyed this one, reminded me of my jeep comm video 😆 yours is much more detailed and explained. Thanks for sharing!

You are a great teacher, knowledge, methodology, energy ...👍 well done

Thanks for the video. Had all of this nonsense happen yesterday on my 2014 dodge grand caravan. It was my rear tv also. Great video!

Great diagnosis using a simple 'cause and effect ' type of format, other than the lab scope functions. You would think with all the program[s] sophistication and high/low speed 'data bursts' between the IHS portion of the TIPM and the LIN system or modules tied into the network, some type of parameter ID could monitor and identify what module's resistance value increases or decreases +/- 20% from a specified value. When that specific resistance value is exceeded, the corresponding module that deviates beyond the preset parameter would trigger a 'CE' light to notify the operator or technician like yourself who has the correct scan tool and diagnostic software. I realize the customer had spent a significant amount on your labor fees via the poor design of not having accessible splices and a single location for the numerous modules, however, I noticed a child's safety seat in the back; and the customer did not wish to have you repair a speed sensor on a small mini-van to make sure the break system was in top shelf condition? Maybe he has recently experienced other unknown debts, I guess. I would certainly state his refusal to Not repair the ABS system on his invoice as a matter of CYA. Video is a Great learning tool; and condensed to boot!

You can only drive this van in the rain. Great video. This is why I hate computers. They can do really weird stuff when things go wrong.

Great video. I am a dyi enthusiast and your explanations and thought process are extremely helpful. thanks for this and other videos

Once you pin point the mod that is not communicating, in this case it was the dvd player, HOW did you fix it? Or did you just leave it disconnected?

Great diag,bud. Had a ford f150 ,customer left window down and it rained ,few days later no start,no comm. Module got water damage. That's why my personal car is all mechanical lol.

Nice video. You explainations are done in a way people can understand. I assume that when you left the module disconnected you also disabled the rear air system?

Fantastic video, you are a great mechanic. These electrical problems can be so perplexing sometimes. You don't always get lucky when your diagnostic can't pinpoint the exact problem. Thanks for sharing all your work on this! I was wondering if you know if there is an easy way to diagnose a low beam headlight not coming on that's not the bulb assy. Is there a test for the ballast?

I have a 2008 Chrysler T & C and having similar issues but things are flashing on and off not staying off. I had already noticed my overhead HVAC controls don’t work quite right and was just over riding them with my front controls but now I am going to get up there and check them out after this. Thank You for your detailed video.

Excellent video! Now I have to figure out where I need to start on the modules. Maybe the DVD/rear HVAC? Thanks!

Of course I will watch this video. We have a 08 Town and country and a 16 Town and country. Wife just loves them and wont buy anything else. Its just up to me to keep them running. And you just know I will run into this.

Great Diagnose! Sometimes disconnecting modules is the only way to locate the CAN or IHS problem.

You are amazing at providing a vast amount of information that has helped me understand what to look at. Thank you so much!

I am having the exact same issue on my 2014 chrysler town and country. I have pretty much came to the same stopping point. I was hoping that you would be able to show how to test the components individually to find which module was at fault. I will figure it out. Great video. Confirmed I was looking in the right direction.

I have a 2014 Town and country van. All the lights on the dash are lighten, and go out, and come back on ever so often. The windshield wipers come on and don't shut of, so I pull the fuse. It's say the Blind spot system needs to looked at. I took of the bumper and took a closer look. Connections were dirty, and the moguls were in good shape. So I cleaned up the bumper, and all the tape to hold the wiers up out of the rain. Blinkers work most of the time. Still don't know where the lose wire might be. Each connection I find and can get to I clean it out and put some electrical grease in the connections.

Honestly thank you for taking your time making the video and also for the CAN bus system , really simplified it cheers mate * UK *

could u have tried doing bidirectional control of the different systems with your picoscope or verus?

Excellent informative video. Thanks for sharing your time and expertise with all of us!

Awesome knowledge, bro Thank you so much for explaining about the CAN types involved in this vehicle. This video is very useful for myself. Thanks again!👍👍👍

Very good video, I'm definitely glad I found this channel communication faults are my weakest area and you did a great job explaining and showing how you got down to the answer.

Go for the easy stuff to disconnect first, Great Video 👍 one of the best presentations with high quality video I have seen on this subject matter

Very Cool! I'm studying for the ASE A6 and I've never done CAN BUS troubleshooting, great to see!

Thank you very much. You save me a lot of money.

You have such a gift!! Awesome work Eric!! Love the whiteboard also!

Hey, FYI there are star connectors mounted under the dash to disconnect all those module in one place, Makes it really fast to diagnose with out disassemble of the interior, I really liked your video.

thanks brother, awesome diag. i have found many problems in the roof. great explanation.

This one definitely goes into my Can /bus comunication problem reference videos for future brain refresh.thank you you have another subscriber.

tx I had a light in my overhead DVD unit that would turn on by itself. I thought their was a short in the unit. After watching your video I will disconnect it to see it the bus cluster will work.

Would pulling fuses work where applicable to power down modules to avoid having to take as much apart?

Would it have been possible to just pull the fuses for the modules one by one while looking at the scope? Of course, if the CAN wires were shorted in the module that wouldn't work, but in this case I wonder if that wouldn't save time.

Saved my life!!! Thank you so much!!! Even tho I have a different van it still worked the same way.

Excellent, that problem is prevalent in caravan and vw Ruttan and I will disconnect the same module and see what the result is

2014 Town & Country also with a No Bus error. Took off fuses one by one until I pulled off the M34 10A fuse which solved the No Bus error. This fuse is part of the following circuits: Park Assist, Heater Climate Control Module, Headlamp Wash, Compass, Rear Camera, Door Lamps, Flashlight, etc. Anyone have suggestions on how I should proceed with finding out which of these accessories are faulty?

Yes ! Awesome vid and great tackling ot down to its core bruh !! Nice!! 👍🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼, were are u located ? I have a very similar issue just bc i swapped a donor BCM on a dodge charger srt8 2014! And soon as i did that i lost immediate interior comunication on car plus HVAC strted blowing hot air at max!! Uconnect has no power radio no power dark screen !! Also no headlights switch will not allow to turn on or off no signal there and no signal on the front left driver door only to operate windows or power locks !! So pretty much similar issue !!! The only code on dash is an ambient voltage HIGH !! I guess thats why my heater is blowing hot steam as ambiant sensor reads negative 17 dgree when is 80 out side!! So may be the short or issue may sit in this ambient sensor code voltage HIGH!! So yea donor BCM swap nd this happends , i decided to put back original BCM and got the car to start only to get all these other issues that were not there prior !!along as for the BCM swapping ,

Very nice diagnostic.

Love the troubleshooting process. Great video. Thank you for sharing!

That splice your talking about is that called the star connector or also called the Can Buss connector?

Hello. Really good video. Thank you. I wonder. I have a Lancia voyager 2014 with no bus shown and nothing works in the car, no fan, can’t use sliding doors, no radio. exact the issue you have in the video. I have tested to disconnect the modules on by one. I removed the two in the doors panels, the one behind the radio, and the one in hvac and the dvd in the roof and the two in the sliding doors. Ive done this separately and still having this issu with no bus. Is there a module behind the Speedo and if I disconnect this one. How will I know if the no bus I still the problem. Aren’t the message going to disappear/codes in the screen when I disconnect the Speedo/modul? Hope you understand my question. Bregards from Sweden 🇸🇪😊

Thank the Lord im a retired mechanic,the good old carb days.No computers.Unfortunately.I retired in 2014.And had to learn and word on this nightmare generation,which every year gets worst,and worst.The space ship is the next compact.

I just want to thank you for your videos.i have watched 2 of them and they are really interesting.thank you for sharing

So I found that unplugging my third row seating is allowing my vehicle to go back to normal operation, specifically the left 60% seat. How do I diagnose exactly where the issue is? Is it more than likely a pinched wire? It happened when my wife was folding down the 3rd row to load groceries into the back of her van.

I’m working on a charger that has all the can bus together to unplug easily and im getting no change with the vehicle when i cycle the key does that mean some can bus wires could be shorted else where rather than in a bad module

CAN YOU SHOW HOW TO HOOK UP THE CAN WIRE CONNECTOR FOR TE LABSCOPE

Good diag. Not sure if you tried disconnecting the door entirely. Most doors have a single connector at the hinge which would’ve made the diag a little faster since you wouldnt have had to take the door panels off. Either way good diag with good direction. I know it sucks when you can’t find the exact cause but at the end of the day if the customer doesn’t have the money you gotta stop there and keep moving.

I found out that unplugging the connection like in your video (the plug in my rear DVD) that it also corrected my no bus code. However my blind spot monitoring and some other functions are now not working. What should I do next??? Thanks

Body control module - check power doors rotting and wires under front left fender. My 2002 body control, pcm, tipm, and tcm ... Bcm is interior.. plus, the car security in the pcm

I have the same van and I'm going threw the same thing so your telling me that something in the van is making it go crazy

thanks much . one thing i noticed on my 2012 grand caravan is the rear ac doesnt work--only heats. then driver window didnt work until i replaced the seitch. now, just sitting in the driveway, the lights randomly come on draining the battery and i cant turn them off. im suspicious of the rear ac module now

Great Video Thank you never know when this might be handy as a T&C owner

This just saved me hundreds of dollars! Thank you!

Thank you bro. You got a lot of patience. Keep on posting those videos.

We have a problem very close to this. But the difference is that I turn on the rain wipers, and the meter stops, lights, speedometer, and the men's temperature indicator help me.

Thank you for SHARING, you have helped me tremendously

Great diag and nice explanations. Too bad about no splice in can bus. Would have made it easier. Wife has same van, can’t wait for it to act up. No DVD option in ours so one less thing to act up. (Thanks youFiat/Chrysler technology!) Look forward to your next video...

Awesome troubleshooting skills! Thank you for sharing!

Thank you for the video! I have everything disconnected, including cluster, but wipers are still on. Resistance on pin 26 and 27 62 ohms. Any suggestions on next steps? Thanks!

Another superb video, Thanks for teaching all us Dummies

Hello, I have a Dogch Dart from 2013 and it has the same problem, except that everything is removed from mine and it runs normally and then the same thing happens again an hour later and it doesn't start.

Great troubleshooting technique !

Thank you for sharing your knowledge

I have 2008 town and country, TiPM caught fire and replaced it. Rewired new connectors in. But lost speedometer, heat, power outlet #2 and#3 , inside door locks on window drivers side switch. Anti theft was activated and do not have original key for fobik. Only one fob with no key. Friend was helping and stuck valet door key in ignition, and broke off the little metal clip on left side of key insertion. I cleared anti theft, but if i stick fob in it sets it off again. Have no crank and hooked up diagnostics tool no communiction is established.

I've had the same problem with all my lights coming on and staying on so I will be checking it.

Do you think a U-Haul trailer wiring harness(module) can cause the same problem?

I like so much this video is why I am sucribe right now very very good video 👍👍👍

Thank you very much man awesome video you help me a lot I thank you very much do you speak Spanish thank you👀🌿

Thank you so much, went right back to normal. Great video.

great explanation on can bus. thanks.

Hey, what did you have to replace on the car to fix the problem? I detached the connectors like you showed and the issue went away, but I don't know if I have to replace that whole unit attached to the ceiling, or just the monitor, or just find the wire and wrap it with electrician tape...

Wow, you got the complete assembly down on a table. I have the two monitor version and all the AC controls etc in the 2013 Grand Caravan RT version. It looks pretty much the same as yours. It also came with a DVD player like remote control and headsets for four passengers. Go figure. The question is when removing the initial bezels (not the whole thing) could you see the metal roof of the minivan? Is there a 1/2 in space between these overhead options and the roof? The reason that I ask is that I want to install an antenna mount in the roof for two-way radio communications with a fixed antenna in the center of the van. I need to drill a 3/4 in hole in the roof to install an industry standard NMO roof mount. If I can get this then routing the antenna cable to a radio is not that big a deal in a headliner. You posted in 2019. If you don't have answers or even look at your post that is OK. Thanks for your detailed video I can proceed possibly without breaking a lot and maybe post a video for others like me who are crazy enough to drill a hole in their minivan roof! Thanks.

very informative thanks