Thanks for the reminder to clean the tools. I get so involved in my jobs that swarf and tools can build up on the workbench to a dangerous point. I try to do a 3 minute cleanup every hour. Returning tools to the box and a quick hovering of the swarth. I Learned this from my dad as a child. I set an alarm so I do not forget. Problem is the shop stays neat but never actually gets clean. So a good deep clean-up, at start up, is a good idea.

thank fuck for someone who can actually speak clearly and understandably. and sounds like he actually knows what he is doing. plus as a truly outstanding feature, no pounding drums or swirling whooshing intrusive background shit music drowning out what he is saying. outstanding vid, subbed, ty

Just received my PD 250 that I bought after watching your videos. Thank you :)

Those kids are constant with it aren't they LOL. I always thought the sound of my kids playing and inevitably fighting was exclusive to my own household. Your video brings the comfort of home with the joy of skill development. Thanks for your content.

The split view was brilliant!

Great vid. Best description of threading I’ve seen.

What a nice and detailed video! Thank you so much for your time and help!

Good job with the video, and the arbor! I especially like the split view. Keep up the great work!

After watching another video about the Proxxon by someone who had no idea what they were doing, it was refreshing to see this video. Good job!

As a complete newcomer, this was excellent information. Thanks very much.

Well. What to say. Great comprehensive video yet. Awesome job. Thanks

Thank you very, it's the first time I learn how to make a thread

You inspired confidence in me doing this on my lathe, thank you.

AWesome. I like the part about using the compound slide. Going to do it that way hereafter.

Trying to learn how to use a leave this video was very helpful thank you 🙏🏻🙂

Another terrific video, Well done!! Greatly appreciate your efforts in creating this video Alistair. Count me in for seeing more on how you went about the nut too. regards Colin

I thought so but now you confirmed it. Thanks! Now I have to go buy this lathe and mill - hmmm where to get a price break!!

Nice lathe. Very informative. Your compound slide is in an angle, every time you advance the compound slide forward you are moving the cutting tool forward and toward the spindle ever so slightly, that will throw off your initial starting point.

Well done and good explained. Thanks for sharing

Very professional and very informative please

Very informative and detail about setting the angle cutter. In traditional way, I did not turn 30 degree the angle tapper, so it's quite danger when I cannot stop the power. Thank you

Very instructive. Thank You

Nice video ..thanks from Azerbaijan

Thanks for the awesome explanation, Clive Owen.

Been a long time since I cut a single-point thread, so this was an excellent review. For depth, thread wires are good but a lot of people cut or buy the nut, then use it as a standard. Otherwise for a given thread depth D, the reading on the compound should be C = D/cos(A) where A is the offset on the compound, usually 30 deg for metric and non-Whitworth Imperial. The depth D is found in tables.

Very nice video 👍

Well done

Nice information

very cool video, was thinking about getting a lathe like this... the engineering bachelor at university definitely doesn't include enough practical stuff

Very nice work. I found it nerve racking. He he.

Thanks for sharing...followed your steps and did a nice thread work. Before I only worked with straight advancing which works but it’s better to use the proper technique. Some ask why the compound at 30deg? Here are some benefits I’ve observed: The tool blade will advance with the left side cutting the material only. This means the tool can cut easier and there will be less torque on the turning piece so less bending of the rod and better finish. The right side angle of the thread triangle will be given by the compound angle. Also the compound cannot be set at 0 degrees at least on some lathe models and it is easier to work with two sliders because one counts the advance and the other is used to retract the tool and position it back to zero so the only option is to set it at 0 or 90deg. With 90deg there are no benefits and you need to lock it with a screw otherwise the backlash will affect the thread.

Nicely done and I would like to see the internal thread cutting. Cheers Peter

Cool Beans!

You could flip the tool by 180 and thread in reverse (going away from the groove towards the tail - this way you don't worry about stopping the lathe on a dime; the relieve groove can be much narrower)

Bravo

Yeah very useful video this, been looking for a lathe but haven't got the space for a **ford of old, which probably would be preferred

When I was a teenager I always tried to be stoned very lightly too 😂

2:26 There is nothing like a late night at the club, followed by some lathework bright and early the next day!

It's often preferable to make the nut first, then thread the screw to fit the nut, checking frequently, using the nut as a gauge.

You can align the tool post, by touching the edge of the threading insert against the face of the chuck body, or, if the job is of a large enough diameter, against the end of the workpiece, provide the end of the workpiece is flat.

The reason of under- or overshooting thread cuts I used a carriage stop switch.

In imperial measurements, when compound feeding. .750/(threads per inch) gives the radial depth(root to tip) of the thread to cut to(stop .010 short if you have the nut or equivalent to fit to)final few.001 done on cross-slide. if your machine cuts on diameter( moving dial by .010 only moves cutter .005) then the formula is (.750/TPI)*2 if feeding in radially(cross-slide only use .650 in formula instead.

Great explanation of thread cutting on a small lathe. I’ve tried this on my PD400 and a problem I get is there is so much over run in the spindle once I switch the motor off, that the tool crashes into the non threaded end of the work piece… maybe I need to push the gears in the banjo closer together.

thanks :)

Well made video. Would like to see internal threatening.

haces unos videos estupendos.Gracias.Podrias hacer uno donde expliques donde se tienen que poner los engranajes para roscar?.Gracias.

Great instructional video for this Lathe. I know it is basically a Chinese C1 lathe, but it looks like Proxxon has tweaked it a bit.

Your square/protractor gubbins is fabulous. Where did you get it? I like your Wera allen keys too. Are they colour coded for different sizes or something? 10:48 - ouch.

What beautiful angle measurement tool do you have there? I want it!

Hi folks. A trick to setting the gear spacing is to use a strip of paper between the teeth. BobUK

Dobbel image video, good idea.

The lathe is a beauty and you are the master of it - great video. Question: how do you register exactly on the same thread for each repeated cut? I would think it could be any issue, though I did not cut threads with my Smithy I had once. Hope to see your reply.

Might seem like a silly question (it's been more than 30 years since I used a lathe), but can you set an automatic stop on this Proxxon to stop the tool post crashing into the chuck? As I recall, back in the 1980s I could set a stop on a Colchester lathe that would disengage the screw when it reached the stop. Without it, I am sure I would have crashed the tool post a couple of times a week.

I never understood the business of ofsetting the topslide when screwing anything and I used to machine big stainless valve seat rings and lots of little stainless parts.

Nice little lathe. Italian, I believe. Very good method-presentation. Cutting feed a bit too fast. Thanks.

I’ve been looking a mini lathes for various RC hobby uses and just stumbled upon the Proxxon tool line. Not sure if you’ve ever used the Chinese cheap lathes but I’m wondering how they compare to proxxon? Great video.

Quando posso seguo i tuoi video. Sempre interessanti, e ben fatti. Una domanda ? Utilizzi un tornio PD 250, oppure un PD 230 ?. Io sono possessore di un PD 230 già usato da altra persona.. Grazie per i video che ci mostri. Ciao

I would like to buy a small lathe like this one or similar. I see on all the specs only tell the TPI capacity of the threads, but I live in Europe. Are all the lathes capable of both metric and imperial threads or I have to look specifically for metric thread lathes?

how to get the left-hand thread with pd250? use the small gear between z1&z2 and L gear?

Bonjour, quelle est votre opinion sur la qualité et la précision du tour à métaux Proxxon 250 ? Merci par avance pour votre réponse. Cordialement.

Is there a good introductory book to get that would mention something like needing to stone and align the toolpost with an indicator? The initial learning curve is just overwhelming and there is only so much videos can do to get a total noob over that hump.

I feel scrapping chunk of metal across the carage would cause enough wear to eventually throw things off or am i just over thinking it?

looking to purchase a small lathes,m sure its worth the money for the proxxon rather than the cheapo chinese,good tutorial and a sub.

thanks for the video. I do not understand English very well. how many degrees the trolley is tilted for a metric thread. thank you.

have such a machine, little experience, which gear must I take to be able to cut such a thread, you have tip for me?

Any good lathes that are bit bigger than Proxxon PD 250/e? I would like to be able to work up to 105mm diameter stock. Proxxon with 4-jaw chuck can handle only 80mm. And physically the limit is about 86mm. I just need something that can do turn pieces down 100mm. So 105-120mm capacity would be perfect. Length wise, 30-40cm should be fine.

Have you ever run the late in reverse straight after a cut without winding the cutter away from the part? Just wondering if there’s much to worry about if you’ve already made the cut and removed material, then the tool should only be barely touching when put in reverse?! Not good technique to get in the habit of I bet but if you had to cut thread in a soft material like Aluminium then could you get away without damaging the tool or part? Also... would you say the Proxxon is a much better machine than the other Chinese lathe you’ve been using? Wanting to purchase one or the other soon and would love your feedback. Can tools and accessories for either be sourced easily, are prices for either similar and/or are they interchangeable? Lastly, Thanks for your time and effort to put these videos together mate.. appreciate it and really enjoy watching them. Cheers

hello what´s the price for one of this small lathes?

Would you still recommend to buy this lathe? In looking for a small first lathe, I found your youtube channel. If you can recommend this (or maybe anther, who knows) I'd be more confident for my purchase. THANK YOU and my compliments with your video's.

I NEED AN HONEST OPINION ON THIS MACHINE, I AM ABOUT TO PURCHASE

So are proxxon tools good? I hear terrible things about most mini lathes and mills.

i miss the "welcome to..." in the intro

Pd150 can do this to?

Can I machine stainless steel by this lathe ?

Whats your tool in looking for degree in tool post?

Please provide the address of the distributor who sells the Proxxon fd 150 lathe, in *Indonesia ???* .

12:05 Very short run out for cutting threads xD

How get job.. At home. Use miling machine?.. Simple project use mini miling.or lathe.. I from malaysia..

А как кайфует-то пацан...

Compair to a more heavy lathe (50 Kg and more) the cutting sound in steel material here is horrible. As a result of vibrations of this light wight machine.