Very nice work. I found it nerve racking. He he.

Very nice old lathe. Very good condition for its age. Interesting that the lathe has a line shaft which is driven by the motor. Looks like someone added the motor a long time ago. I have a Southbend Heavy 10. The flat belt was in bad shape lots of embedded metal particles from decades of use. I replaced with a modern flat belt made with rubber core and nylon outer. I purchased this with a scarf joint and the relevant glues for rubber and nylon. It is very quiet. Your laced belt will have a click every time the lacing hits the cone pulley. I live in eastern PA, USA. There is a flat belt company about 40mins away. They are in Amish country hence a lot of old farm machines still being used needing belting. The company cuts the belting to required length and calculates the scarf position so the glued up belt is the final desired length. Dave.

Just got one of these. What size bolts do I need to bolt this to the table.??

You have inspired me to tackle my similar mini-lathe. The tail-stock has always seems terribly imprecise and unstable. I basically only use my lathe to turn bushings and modify bolts. Learning skills like scraping seems like a worthwhile investment though many in the comments seem to think that quicker results are necessarily better. Scraping seems like a basic skill that every machinist should be familiar with.

I have just fitted a spindle to my Unimat. 500w, 12,000 rpm (max) it is smaller than the original motor. It fits on a bracket in the same manner as the original, and uses a 42mm pulley- this gives max 6000RPM, which is the max speed for the Unimat specified in its manual. I now have a full speed range via a speed control, and much more power. And no belt changing.

Thanks for that. Just a little history. In 1964, as a young whippersnapper, after being invalided from the Royal Marines, I had my first job in Burnerds, making Boley chucks. The most difficult machining op was turning the scroll on a modified Herbert lathe. The jaws were case hardened in a cyanide bath at 800 C, and when assembled ground to a tolerance of 0.0005". And they are still being used. Wow. Lol

The motor and clutch is a Mardrive. They were a standard fitting for Pultra lathes and some sewing machines.

Lathes uk does modern flat belts. Tony Griffiths is the contact.

I can see why you hate to saw using a hacksaw. You need to move the cut closer to the vise jaws to get more support. The thinner and more flexible the material, the more important this is. I don't cut a single piece of metal, regardless of the tool I use, without learning something.

Hello, i'm watching again your video, i'm an owner of a lathe - similar to your one - from 2006 i think, and from that time i went on with many adjustments to best work with this not-so-good machine. Unfortunately just now i discovered an important problem i have never noticed before ... : lathing a 30 mm in diameter steel bar, 90 mm in lenght, with no use of tailstock, i get it a bit tapered, 0,06 mm in a lenght of 60 mm, as to say 0,01 mm / 10,00 mm. , the tinner diameter nearest to the chuck. Lathing 0,5 millimeter at a time, or only 0,1 millimeters doesn't change, so i believe no "flection" involved ; nor heating of the HSS tools, i get the same result lathing in both directions ( thinner in the same place, nearest to the chuck ). Using tailstock, equally doesn't change anything. I believe there is an error direction of the spin ( in fact, when i work "between the points", and previously having adjusted the tailstock, i get perfect parallelism, and no taper at all. How can i solve this problem ? The spin box is milled in a "V" shape ( reversed ), to perfectly fit on the relative guide. Could i use two little spacers ( 0,03 mm ) near the fixing screws ( opposite sides ) ? Thank you very much to anybody could help me ...

I hope it was a bargain

I love your attention to detail and almost phorensic examination of parts, etc. Given the Proxxon 250, CJ0618 and Unimat 3 - if you could only have one of them - taking into consideration; precision, handling and overall satisfaction of use - which one would it be?

very helpful video. I'm waiting for new china lathe.... Needs a similar adjust.

Fantastic , what kind of insert you are using for this kind of material Many thanks

You can do what i would do which is weld the bottom of the tail stock and put filler metal in then plane it flat . Thats fairly simple .

When I was a teenager I always tried to be stoned very lightly too 😂

6 months late, and I don't know if it's been said before. But part of the reason your first scraper didn't cut well and needed constant resharpening might be due to the grinding of the edge and the heat generated by the grinding. I've had hardened steel parts lose their hardening because they got too hot at the tip and effectively tempered themselves. Just something to keep in mind for the next time!

The dreaded black nail!! 😢 well to be honest we’ve all been there and spoken fluently in several languages unknown to man! 😂

A nice win even if it was not your original plan.

I was tired just watching the video.

Hi, is it possible for you to measure the bolt circle diameter of the proxxon three jaw chuck? I just can't find the info on the internet. For my new Emco lathe I'm looking for a new chuck. The proxxon seems to be identical to the original Emco if the mounting bolt circle fits. 29mm circle diameter would be great :) Would be very thankful if you can measure yours!

Very instructive video, thanks ! I will definitely reuse intel if I need to dismantle things on my SL ! 😀 May I ask what is your cleaning solution, and how long are your cleaning US sessions ?

Very beautiful machine

That's a very nice toy to play with. Have fun with it.

It has no leadscrew or saddle crank? How do you turn parts? Do you have to use the top slide for turning?

so what was the fix? If there is a video send the link.

Extremely interesting. Very well paced & narrated.

If you're stuck, I found that a Smart&Brown Model-L cross slide will fit a model-A bed profile - I use one on my own Model A (AVI-RG).

A very nice machine indeed. Thank you for sharing. As I have shown (I hope) my Lorch Schmitt & co model A lathe is driven by two flat belts. But they both needed replacement. One was leather. Cracked, dried out and unsalvageable. The other was more a canvas/rubber belt that by now had started to delaminate. Luckily, I have two nephews who are orthopedic shoe makers and masters at (thick) leather working, so I could quite easily have new belts made. The thing I did learn is that new leather stretches. Depending on the thickness and with, this can be a problem if you don’t have the adjustment means. Especially with a dual belt system as I have it as both will be different length and width, and thus have different stretch factors.

as an electrician i highly recomend that you connect the two Yellow/Green earth wires directly together rather than through the switch.

This is going to be marvelous 👍

Congratulations on your new machine. Regarding flat belts, the KZfaq channel 'Winky's Workshop' has a bit of know-how regarding replacements and splicing. Good Luck

could you undo the belt lacing on one side, cut out a short piece, and re-crimp the metal lacing on? That should help with the tension until its replaced.

It's pretty easy to use leather belriing and make it endless using a scarf joint. I did something similar on a vintage lathe including tensioning. It's on my craooy channel if you want to have a look. Scarf joint is easy and strong.

Hi, mrpete222 has many videos about flat belts that might help you. Good luck

I just emailed you some info on flat belts.

I am curious about the visual effect of the oiler hole on the cross slide moving when you wipe it with the cloth at 22:55 ?

"Adventures with a pretty beefy lathe"

A lovely sturdy machine. Best wishes.

Very nice lathe. Please can I ask you to look at the electrics. Not sure about the earthing arrangement. It seems to go through the contactor. and not connected to the starter case, lathe frame or motor directly. In fact the earth connection to the motor looks switched in the starter switch is a big no no! I would suggest ditching that starter and going for a more modern No Volt release model for safety.

Thanks for sharing 👍

Now you'll have to rename your channel into "Adventures with a Very Moderately-Sized Lathe" 😁

That's a cracking machine. I assume you got the tailstock with it? The countershaft setup looks a bit janky, the "normal" setup for this is to have the whole countershaft / motor setup pivoting in order to tension the flat belt automatically. You're right that the high speed setup is very slack. Far too slack. Modern replacements for flat belts exist, and can be made to measure. A common quick fix is to use an automotive serpentine belt flipped outside-in (requires pulling the spindle to fit). Any kind of splittable belt as you have at the moment is noisy, the best is a belt that's made and bonded in place. I have a friend who bought up a load of Habasit belting (this is a proper rolls royce solution) along with the machine that does the bonding, he can split to width and lend the machine. I need to replace the belt on my schaublin at some point in the nearish future, if I do so I can get a belt made up for you at the same time. Again, this is going to require pulling the spindle on the lathe to fit.

try the 😊interlocking belts that can be made any length

🙌

Thanks for sharing.

Love the videos you make. Hopefully there will be more on the proxxon. I’m looking at getting a lathe again thanks to your videos

As for your statement about a band saw, I used a portaband set in a vertical holder that mounts in vise, I mounted a small plate to act as a table to cut on

Thank you for this. Lots to do but now it makes sense where to begin.

Thanks for sharing. ❤