I wanted a sawmill my whole life. This is therapeutic for me

Thank you for sharing your experience🥰🥰🥰

KZfaq channel 'Project of the day' about a year ago addressed the turning issue with a great reason to do 180 degree turns and that is after a 90 degree turn more weight of the log is putting pressure on the dog side of the mill due to the offset weight after only one cut. Especially on the lighter mills it can be enough to unsquare or twist the mill itself. Even if no twist, it is still a lot of weight on the dog side. With a 180 turn there is only down pressure/weight on the bunks. I would say you were doing it more correctly from the beginning. 'The Old Man and the Saw' also does 180 turns. Just saying you aren't alone.

Thank you . Enjoy your content. Those were some pretty logs to mill . Nice truck in the back ground.

Great content Mike, and I enjoyed the live show last night. Looks like 90 degrees works better on the Mill? I think a Mill shed would be a good idea.

I won't tell Eric if you don't. Thanks for posting, and thumbs up.

Me thinks that with an offset hewing ax head, you may have an easier time with the 'cleaning' of these logs. You may get a more precise angle of attack to get to that dirt faster, thus saving you time and effort. Just an armchair thought whilst watching this great teaching video. Thanks for your channel and the laughs as well. Many thumbs up Michael!!

We generally turn the logs 90 degrees at a time if for no other reason it seems like less wrestling of the heavy logs. Plus the flitch advantage I never really thought about before, but most of them have a straight edge.

Nice Hat!

The 90° always seemed to me to be better - but someone told me, 180° is better if you have a lot of tension in the log. And: it depends what kind of lumber you can use - sometimes you want to have live edge on both sides, whereas if you want to trim the boards, its much easyer, already having one straight edge

Excellent analysis of the methods! I would like to know what effect it has on the grain of the boards that result... the 90 deg method makes me think of quarter-sawn lumber, which is supposed to be superior? Which method results in straighter boards over the long term?

You're getting there! Wait until you figure out how to cut, turn cut, turn cut cut cut, turn and mill to the deck 😊

Wouldn't the 90 rotation only make sense if the open cut face was turned toward the side of the sawmill that the blade enters the log?🤔

The flitches having a straight edge is a MAJOR advantage. I've been doing the 180 method on my Norwood LM30 because I was having trouble keeping the can't square when I did the 90 method. Now that I have more experience, I'll go back and try the 90 method again. Also, just watching this, it seemed to me you might get one more flitch out of a similar long with the 90 method. I cut 1x4's too...

Hi. I have watched a few of your videos. I would suggest a slightly improved hybrid approach. I cut the top same as you and turn 90 degrees. Cut down to where you want to cant. Then I turn 90 twice ( 180 ) and now you are cutting into a clean face every board down to where your true resaw cant is. Stand up and resaw. I always start my cut in the top rather than the butt whenever possible too. Not as important with a push mill as opposed to the power feed mills but it makes breakdown planning easier and the blade is entering a narrower face. I would love to have those nice fir logs. Cheers, Buzz

Excellent video, laughed through the video. Too late, Eric probably already watched this.

Can you put a de barker on your model of saw? I see some on other woodmizers. They help a lot with saving blades.

Maybe I'm learning how to mill lumber or just watching good video thank you

Okay, great video about 90 vs 180, but now I need to know about the old Chevy 4x4.

This dude has an honest heart. Though he had very different opinions to Eric, he took his advice to check it out. That's a 'big' man, IMO. But I would like to say, why don't you build a shed with those flitches?

Mumms the word,I promise not to tell Eric (for a small fee)LOL.Great video and keep em coming

Always ending with a 😊

My experience has been that turning 180 gives more precise 90 deg angles, and the blade stays sharp longer because you don't enter the bark as much. Exit bark doesn't really seem to make a difference. I've never cleaned the bunks when turning, but mine don't seem to get that dirty.

Using the 90 degree method is faster and easier than the 180 degree method but is accurate only on small to medium logs. For boards less than 6/4 a 90 degree edge isn't so critical since the board will usually undergo further processing. On large logs, or when milling 6/4 and thicker lumber, where a true 90 degree cant is required, I prefer to turn 180 degrees and then use a square for the third turn. This ensures a 90 degree cant corner; which ensures square framing lumber. Dave The Square

You could also rotate 90 deg. the opposite way. On my old Mighty mite I use a level or sometimes framing square to make sure the 1st cut is plumb. A bit tedious but only one cut enters the bark. I admit that because it is tedious I rarely do it. Years ago there was a manufacturer that used that principle. Might have been Timber Harvester but out of business now.

That device you use to flip the logs off the trailer. Last time I saw something like that people were yelling at me on the beach "tharr she blows !!"

I have one of these mills. Mine is portable. Lookin to upgrade. Gotta 100 acres to saw. Electric winch w ramps makes getting logs on the mill easy. East Tennessee. $12k

I still use the old Alaska chainsaw mill, so after my first cut I'm always cutting into clean wood. Solution to this problem, modify mill bed stops and guides, flip log to the other side and have clean wood. Yeah only works for 90 degree turns.

Hacking away that dirt....you need one of those offset axes used for hewing. The "bent" axe head gets close and saves your knuckles...can even square things up for a cant

Love your videos, I don’t have a mill, never ran one… but if your fence clamps were on the other rail your blades would only enter bark on the first cut or two, flip the log 90 degrees and your blade enters on the clean sawn side, also enable your blade roller guide to be adjusted closer to where the blade meets the wood. Wachathink?

oh my God you must be the first one in centuries to come up with that idea

Have you considered getting a bark spud for getting dirty bark off the logs?

I will keep your little secret!! But Erik is pretty good at knowing I am hiding something!!! Good video!!

Go demo I think it’s all up to the Sawyer preference. I do mine a 90 and like we’re I don’t have as many flitches.

With doing the switches at a 90 you might consider running them threw a table saw for edging ...I find it easier for me anyway

I am no expert by any means, but why not turn the log to where the bark is on the exit side if the blade aft you make your 1st cut.

get yourself a Debarker and a leaf blower - or maybe a pull-knife

But, the shades and hat are way cooler than not having them.

I turned the saw head 180dgs on the track so after the first cut the blade is always entering the wood from the fresh cut (clean) side... blade stays sharp longer... I thought holding the log tight against the stops might be a problem as the blade would be pulling the log away from the stops but no problem so far.

I've never used one personally, but have you ever tried using a bark spud to get the dirty bark off? 👍🍻

On Mark Galicic circular sawmill the cants don't go thud when he turns them they go boom, kind of like how they go boom when you cut them down. Come to think of it, I thing they go boom because the cants on his sawmill are bigger then the cants on your sawmill.

I've always been a 90 degree guy except for real small logs which I cut everything into flitches and edge them. I haven't been able to figure out why some people find 180 to cut more accurate. The only reason I've been given is that the clamping strength on hydraulic mills push it out of square. If that's the case, I don't see how 180 would be different. The only thing I see different is with the 90 degree method, you're clamping against the curved part of the log whereas with the 180 method, you're clamping against a cut face. In both methods, there's a cut face up against the side supports, a rounded face sitting on the bed, and you still need to clamp. If your side supports have so much slop they can't hold true to the bed, I just don't see why either method wouldn't result in accuracy issues. Unless maybe the mills in question do a significantly poorer job holding a curved surface compared to a flat surface? I've never had a problem with my LT40HD, but it's the older flip style clamp. Also, have you tried not worrying about cleaning the exit side of the log? We never do. I've always thought it's unnecessary. Dirt can easily exit on that side so I don't think it has nearly the impact on blade life as the entry side. Might save you a little extra work.

Whats that sticking in my throat ? Its 90 degrees ! :D

It’s the new hat! It has your numbers mixed up 😊

Could you pressure wash the logs before you mill them?

Mr. Wilson my hubby disagrees with you and Mr. Eric Jarhead, so I asked why. He said there is never a rule of thumb to a sawyers endless thinking. They're all crazy !... at least that's what he said .

The 90 degree is a lot better if you ask me

What kind of wood is that?

Sawing threw bark is hard on blades to extend the life turn your log opposite the way you did it that way your clean cut will be out an your blade will be cutting into your fresh cut keep that threw the entire cut saves life of your blade an you don’t have to keep chopping the dirty bark off

Maybe if you wash your logs first you wouldn't need to scrape all that dirt off, lol. You also need a longer handled broom. From watching you work I still think you original method of turning 180 degrees but since I'm not the one running the mill I would say do it how ever you like doing it.

Why not have an air or water hose to clean up logs prior to entering the mill.🤷‍♂️

I’m still a 180 guy….. More accurate cuts for me

I put some thought into this and I'm at a loss of words.🤷

Hmmm, turning logs on the mill 90° or 180° ...? As with ALL things Woodland Management, IT DEPENDS! It depends on the log, the mill, the sawyer, the flitches... It all depends. Cheers from your neighbour in Linn County

What if you turned the log 45 degrees?😂

👍👍🪵😁