yup just saw that one too! hahaa its amazing

very welcome! Hope this helps !

thanks for tuning in!

When done, for a few £s, it becomes an airbrush that's half the price of specific IWATAs that works better and is easier to clean than said IWATAs ✌️😉😉💜

many thanks for viewing! and the kind words, i believe that spring housing has the same diameter but im not entirely sure,, you can always try to machine out more of the teflon seal to make it fit, at the very least you're set back $10

agree 100%

Hello mate Have you used a spring from an iwata micron to solve the problem? what spring reference did you use? Thank you All the best

@@Tangente9927 I have used the micron needle spring (ref. Iwata 5701) with good results. In comparison to the sotar 20/20, which is considered the most responsive, the setup I achieved on both the evolution and the infinity is comparable, if not better. Another method is to combine two H&S needle springs. This will allow you to adjust the tension by cutting down one of the springs. If you try this method, first cut the last and first coil off. By doing this it will allow the two springs to combine easier. The trigger response and consistency achieved is excellent. Whilst this will help, it is all about paint consistency and air pressure. I spray at 20psi to keep one factor consistent and adjust the paint. If you think it's thin enough, add another drop or two of thinner. That has helped reduce problems for me.

Any additional fixes are welcome here!

wouldn't using the spring tension adjuster do the same?

@@kuntibolox at first I made the tension on the spring as stiff as possible, and it helped for a little while but ultimately was experiencing the same issue

thanks for viewing! also yes, they should also modify the spring assembly straight from the factory contact

I found the washers fit perfectly without any need to modify them

@@robertanderson9584 I just ordered what I thought were the right ones and they're way off, would you mind pointing me to the ones you got?

@@erenlee5151t‘s H&S part number 123180. It‘s the teflon washer sealing off the nozzle against the main housing. This particular washer should also be in the general washer sets for each model

Fixed in Giraldez Infinity.

Good question! Probably a high cost of production reduced resources for quality assurance. If Boeing can do that why HS would be an exception.

The "fix" gets rid of the deadzone in the trigger so it more closely resembles an Iwata. But in itself the deadzone is not an issue and most people can work fine with it. The removal of the deadzone makes it feel more responsive but the brush will give the same paint results. For people like Dread FX who uses his Iwata custom micro very often the Infinity feels unresponsive and with the fix it is easier to switch between those brushes. I have modded my Infinity with this "fix" and I like it a bit better, but, as I don't have another brush thats more responsive I don't think its that big of a deal

Honestly this is still a solid airbrush! for me this issue really only came up after about 2 years of use, after this fix its even better, but i totally understand the hesitation

any additional/further advice is welcomed, and a big help to the community! thank you!

I haven't tried the spring fix so its not really fair for me to say. As assumptions go, it cant hurt!

yes! definitely an annoyance to say the least lol

I am not too sure, sorry!

As this is not fix but more a change in feel of the responsiveness of the trigger, H&S doesn't need to fix anything. What this modification does is remove some deadzone from the trigger so it becomes more responsive and more closely resembles the feel of an Iwata. There is nothing wrong with a stock Infinity, but If you switch between Iwata and H&S often (as Dread FX does) it is great as they now work more alike. If you only work with H&S brushes you wont see a big improvement with the mod, it feels just a bit different now. So to answer your question, no H&S does not pre-mod their Infinities (and evolutions for that matter as those are the same and can be modded with the same mod) The new 2024 Evolution is almost completely redesigned and the new design has removed this deadzone. A new Infinity is in the works and we should see it launch this year and that will most likely also be more responsive as that is the preference of most pro painters.

Lol, I mean admittedly I say in the video that I’m not the greatest airbrush artist. Also I remind you that MANY others experience this same issue, including DredFX (whose video I reference, and method I reference) [DredFX by the way has phenomenal airbrush skills] thanks for commenting!

It is much better when tweaked, takes it from a 90 percenter to 100 percenter, better than an expensive Iwata at twice the price, better atomisation too✌️😉💜 It's a known issue that H&S should address across the range🤔🤔 BUT it's a cheap fix✌️👍😉💜

are you talking about the needle stop at the back of the airbrush?

@@ArmorStudioNYC yes. I don't no why is not working when I did same as you did ? thank you so much for answer.

@@siyamakghaffari2949 hmmm, my needle stop is still functional, the trigger should be able to fully reset forward even with the teflon washers in place. im sure youve tried already but make sure the inner body spring, trigger mechanism and guide rods are properly placed

@@ArmorStudioNYC Thank you so much for your answer. probably I did some mistake. I will do it again, and I hope is working.

It is correct that the trigger hack will require a new working position for the Quick Fix - the Quick Fix is adjustable. It can be turned several times through its scale before hitting a hard stop. Take the end cap off and turn the disengaged Qick Fix to see ( and feel) what I mean. With the trigger fix in place, screw off the Quick Fix, put on the end cap, and start screwing in the Quick Fix. When hitting the scale arrow with your Six position, engage the Quick Fix and pull the needle back with the trigger, to check if the current position gives you a needle stop already - obviously, on Six and disengaged, the needle should always move to full open position. If it does, turn the scale to Two and check the needle movement for a stop. If no stop, turn the Quick Fix in one full revolution until hitting the Six mark again, and repeat the above exercise with the needle movement check. I guarantee you will find a (new) Quick Fix position where Six will give you full needle movement disengaged and One engaged will restrict it to barely open.

So if I were in H&S's R&D team id look at this issue and say, is it really worth engineering a new needle body? Honestly the issue is more annoying than anything lol. I think for them to re-engineer a part it needs to be an issue that SEVERLY limits the operation or capabilities of the brush, which it honestly doesnt.

I did but never got a reply.

Not at all, to this day I still achieve the same paint flow just more efficiently than before the quick fix

Just checked mine out, which is about a year old. Definitely doesn't have that "lag" either.

I will say I noticed this problem over time, so when I first got the airbrush it was a dream. Glaring issue yes, but after this fix i've had zero issue!

I agree, overtime the issue got progressively worse, to my knowledge they also haven't announced or prepared a fix to future CR+'s. Which is worrisome given this known issue.

@@ArmorStudioNYC I think H&S should come up with a solution for all of us who have the CR+, now in its new version the Infinity Giraldez seems to have solved the problem with a new trigger design. That's why I think they should release a piece that improves the CR+

Yep realized that mistake after publishing lol

@@ArmorStudioNYC 👍

The inner works of both models are the same, so this should work on the Evo, too

@@Custer0706 I've tried and it doesn't (3d printed version from thingiverse). Maybe they changed something.

Thank you for commenting and boosting the algorithm! Dont forget to like and subscribe!

thanks for commenting and helping out with the youtube algorithm!

Mate, Dred FX is critical of this airbrush and his skills are fautless, absolutely awesome, so take your comment over to him if you're that confident in your opinion! I've got this brush and like many, stopped using it for my armour modelling because it was so inconsistent, it would be truly awful for a cheap brush but for a £200 one it's criminal! This fix has been long awaited and got me and no doubt many others using it again because it's how the brush should work from the get-go. Every comment on youtube barr yours is about this issue, in fact it's become synonymous with H&S so IF your brush really is as good as you claim out of the box you're either extremely lucky, not fussed about accuracy or a bulshi**er trying to slate someone trying to help others. Take it to Twitter pal, you'll fit in nicely with all the other patronising experts and self appointed critics. You're not wanted here! BTW, someone with zero subscribers and 3 videos totalling 8 minutes attempting to patronise this guy for any kind of deficiency or failing is 'amusing'.... Do one ya sad sock....

You obviously don't do much detail painting because the problem is indeed present on the evolution. Don't post a crass comment if you don't know what you are talking about..

Oh brother, this guy stinks