Andy, glad you like the video. I highly recommend the iwata eclipse hp-cs. It is not only the best first brush you can get you will use it throughout you entire journey. I have mine over 20 years and I still use it on just about every project. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching.

Cool. I'm glad you liked the video. Thanks for watching.

Wesley, thanks for sharing your experience. I also experience that Metal on metal on the trigger. Thought it might be just me. Thanks for watching.

I agree about the trigger adjustment on the Infinity CRP, it's the knurled nut in front of the chucking nut (not the gold plated ring). The chucking nut can be used to help clear tip dry etc via the handle cutaway. The Infinity CRP does seem to have a rougher feel to the trigger - I think it's the drilled, fancy looking trigger. I noted on my Evolution CRP that the trigger is much smoother - so I swapped out the Infinity trigger to an Evolution trigger - a lot smoother in use now. I see H&S have supposedly improved matters in some of their special editions by improving lube "reservoirs" (spaces) and adding longer triggers etc. As the air valve spring and other metal on metal parts also are a cause of friction, I also service the brushes as that helps, I use, sparingly, glycerin, Iwata blue lube leaves a nasty sticky residue that dries like thread lock! I add glycerine to all the moving parts, except the needle tip and the air valve assembly. Again this helps to make operations smoother, as does use. I've also modified both H&S CRP brushes to take up the trigger/paint uptake slack issue. On my Infinity Chameleon the trigger (identical to the CRP version) works a lot more smoothly, so no need to swap it, I've yet to modify it re the trigger/paint uptake slack. I've put a trigger stop on my Evolution too - I don't get to paint often so having trigger stops helps to make more accurate paint application for repetitive detail work, as does the slack modification. I have challenges with my hands too so every little helps. I use the H&S brushes for detail work (0.15, 0.20 & 0.40 set ups) and use my Paasche H for primers and base coats, similarly my Paasche Millennium. All are fairly easy to clean and handle the larger parts etc.

Toneism, it is a very good brush if you are looking for that .18 to .20 needle size and the price is good. I will say the trigger isn't as smooth as my micron but the micron is a bit more expensive. Check out my review on the micron before you make up your mind.

So cool to hear you like my videos. And thank you for asking about demoing those brushes. I love when I hear from the viewer towhat they want to see. I will start working on that thanks and thanks for watching.

Thank you for watching and the comment as well.

Andy, thank you. That is very helpful. Much appreciated. Thanks for watching.

Panel, thanks for sharing that will be very helpful for viewer's. Much appreciated and thanks for watching.

Omg! I am a big fan of yours and a subscriber, been watching you for a long time. Thanks for the feed back, it is much appreciated. I have been working hard on the video angels and editing. Its not easy doing it by yourself and with a phone on a light ring. I feel I am trying hard to improve with each video. That really is a great review of the video and my channel. Thanks again. Big fan, Dan

@@TheAirbrushGarage I get it brother. It's tough with equipment limitations. For what it's worth, you're doing great in my opinion. As with all things, Improvement comes naturally with practice. Don't try too hard. You come across as genuine. Don't lose that. I appreciate the kind words my friend!

@@wickedartstudio Thanks. One of the biggest lessons I am learning is when I misspeak, boy do they let me know it. For example I did a video on Createx Reducers or it might have been the on clears and I was explaining how the 4012 can have gelling problems with the 4030 and I said... "Createx's answer was that they came out with the 4011." I meant to say they recommended to go "back" to the 4011. I took a beating for that one and I should go back and correct it. So I am trying to be more careful in what I say. Your advise means a lot to me. I know you took a break for awhile because it was just getting to be to much. I'm glad you came back. Now that I am doing this I now know how much time and work goes in to producing a video and managing a channel. Thank you for doing what you do.

William, yes! Great brush and my first brush and what I learned on was a VL. I like Paashe, I need to get one. Lol

Marcel, I now have a micron since I made this video, a Takumi to be exact, and I definitely prefer it over the infinity. It is twice as expensive, but if budget is not a factor, the micron is the top of the line. Just my opinion. Also, I have not experienced any trouble with the trigger on my infinity. I hope this helps. Thanks for the question, and thanks for watching.

Dude Slick, yes I agree. Why I say they are different is because one is a compression fitting and the other is not. I have never just replaced the nozzle and not the brass compression fitting. I mean I guess you can but I never have. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching.

@@TheAirbrushGarage Yeah, I pull those two pieces apart every time I do a deep clean. Just be sure to remove the nozzle while the brass piece is still under compression.

Pesca, I always recommend Createx paint. I have been using it for over 20 years. They have paint for fabric, hard surface and illustration work. I also have a video on Createx paints. Check it out if you get a chance. Hope this helps and thanks for watching.

@@TheAirbrushGarage thank very much

Simon, it depends on what Createx paint you are using. On a plastic model I would be using Wicked colors and clearing it with off the shelf clear you would get at your local home store. Wicked is the most durable of the Createx line and is even rated for exterior use. Other lines like illustration and others can be reactivated with water where wicked cannot. With that said I am not recommending a 2k clear because your application does not sound like an exterior application there for the regular can clear is good. hope this helps and thanks for watching.

@@TheAirbrushGarage Thank you so much for your helpful advie. Great videos. Cheers

Mikolaj, Poland! That's awesome! One of the best thing of having a channel is I connect with people like you all over the world. They are both of high quality and iwata actually bought H & S. I will say I think the trigger is smoother on the iwata. But for the money H & S is a great choice. Hope this helps. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching.

Jame. If you want to continue using the siphon feed, btw, the VL was my first brush, I would use it for coverage and use the infinity for detail. I only use my infinity as a detail brush. Hope this helps, thanks for the question and thanks for watching.

Use the VL to prime. Thin your paint and turn up the pressure for a smooth finish.

That's a really good point. It depends on the paint and thinning used. Assuming water based acrylics and appropriate thinner? I use my Paasche H for base coat and primer applications, varnishes too. Similarly my Paasche Millennium. My H&S Infinity CRP, Evolution CRP, Infinity Chameleon are all used for detail work (0.2, 0.4 & 0.15), all seems to work fine to me. I've had some of my work published in notable journals and I'm an average bodger, so both makes of airbrush seem to work well together (and flatter my abilities). If I were painting miniatures, larger figures etc, I'd probably use the H&S brushes building up layers slowly, but for 1/43, 1/48 railway vehicles and larger models (ships, boats, RC cars) the Paasches are fine to get the first coats of primer and base coats on (I've also a GP50 and a Flyer by Sparmax for really big tasks, I can also fit a 0.60 set up in my H&S brushes - horses for courses).

Parnashwind, thank you for watching and leaving a comment, I appreciate the support and I hope you subscribe and continue watching. Comments are important to me as it helps me plan for future videos. Thanks Dan - The Airbrush Garage

Wel Terry....I don't use those products but it sounds like your main issue is tip dry. Tip dry is something we all deal with but the best way to minimize it is to pay attention to your trigger control. make sure you are bringing the trigger forward and shutting the paint off first and then leave go of the trigger shutting off the air. This blows the paint of the needle before you shut the air off. now...it can be due to prolonged spraying I put some reducer in a cup and with a small paint brush, brush of the tip dry. Make sure you then dry the tip with a paper towel or you will blow reducer on to your project. This works better than using your fingers to clear your needle. I hope this helps and thank you for the question and thanks for watching.

@@TheAirbrushGarage much appreciate and many thanks for your speedy reply 👍

I’m an airbrush noob just trying to get my head round the complexities but surely CR+ is not the name of an airbrush merely of a coating technology? CR+ just means ‘special chrome plating’ - and is intended mainly to reduce Nickel-Copper allergies. I believe Harder & S. do both their Infinity and Evolution brushes in CR+ versions, and also in the less expensive non-CR+.

@@sirrathersplendid4825 The H&S evolution CR+ also has 3 seals to the air chamber compared to the cheaper models which is better for solvent paints, I have been researching quite a few airbrushes as many are £150+, I still have not made my mind up, lol.

@@olivertaylor4779 - I went to my local store expecting to buy H&S but came out with a Creos Procon Boy at around £110. A sleek Japanese airbrush almost as good as an Iwata (which costs three times the price).

Jason, yes my go to is a small paint brush dipped in reducer. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching.

@@TheAirbrushGarage You did a great comparison of airbrushes and not many do that. It's usually a review of only one.

Jeb, I just work with what I own. I guess the good thing about reviews is you get different personal opinions based on individual experience. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching.

@@TheAirbrushGarage I stumbled across the video after I had watched another..obviously it filled my suggested vids with a ton of mostly the same thing. Kinda like reviewers all doing the same stuff once a company ships it out to them.

@@jebstuart1323 I not sure about the others you watched and or if the were sponsored or sent the products but I paid for all of mine up to this point so you will get a straight and unbiased review from me.