As one of the original pattern makers who made the master models for Airfix . May I say you have amazing model making skills.

Am I having flashbacks to the Stuka build? This looks very much like the Stuka engine, complete with using the wet paint to mark the plastic arm 👍

The exhaust manifolds are a master stroke!

Loved the use of the mesh 👍

I’m loving the add-ons you’re putting on the kit, like the meshing for the radiators. Very nice touch. That pilot looks superb.

I’m in awe of your paint skills Greg. Amazing stuff!

The pilot is a masterpiece! What painting skills.

The pilot looks great! Nice job!

Rock solid modelling skills in a well presented format. Fast becoming one of my favourite channels. Nice one fella!

Thanks Greg for more tips and scratch building advice . Regards Gav.

Lovely weathered engine 👍

Cracking job greg

Hi mate, firstly wow that pilot is excellent the painting skills you have are excellent. Brill stuff and good work with the engine too. Stay safe buddy

Quality work👍👍

Greg just a thought for the oil cooler. Instead of the mesh (which I love BTW, great job!) could you not just score a cross hatch pattern into the original part, paint it black, and then treat the scoring like panel lines - wash it with a copper/bronze colour and then dry brush in case the black was too light. From normal viewing distance I think that would look OK.

Beautiful work Greg! You have rebuilt every detail of the kit perfectly. I'm really curious about the final result.

I would suggest using a silicon based spray for electrics to help with the running of the motor

Great work mate inspired me for my build, question on the engine number decals and where you got them from

I think constructed this 1:24 model in the 70's, but I seem to recall the nose was yellow? Nice results there Greg. One thing... OK, I learned to solder electronic circuits at age 8, well before making this kit... well before becoming a professional electrician. So, Re. Motor wiring: Practice some more using the correct technique of heating the joint and then applying flux core solder, to avoid dry joints. There is no need to thread wires through holes and twisting. This just becomes a problem to remove if needed and increases the heat needed (being 3 times the amount of metal to heat) You need to be quick soldering the motor tabs to avoid heat distortion of the plastic motor case... a fine balance between melting plastic and getting a non-dry joint. Pre-solder the tabs and the wire prior to attaching. Should take no more than 2 seconds to complete the jointing. The wire you used there is much larger gauge than needed for that pissant motor. A length of very small gauge figure 8 speaker wire would be better suited. (smallest you can find... stripping 2 cores from a ribbon cable used in an old computer would do) Interesting thing with those motors... they only have one stator magnetic pole (note the axial offset output shaft) so they require a spin to start rotation... and also the reason why the inherent vibration (at scale it would have rattled every rivet lose in the airframe! )

Greg it looks good to me. Would you please tell me any details about the copper mesh. I would like to get some to try please.

What motor did you use?

much too heavy electric cable for motor, raillway modellers use much finer wire