good suggestion!

Thanks for watching :)

Awesome! :)

Thanks for watching!

Me too! - it'll actually be the third one i'll have built - having done the Desert and Battle of Britain (Tomahawk IIb) scheme ones previously, but i'm looking forward to doing a different version

I imagine that if you bought it 60 years ago it would have been a different version, the tooling for this one is much newer so hpefully a bit more detailed too :)

@@ModelMinutes Yes it was quite basic, but as a youngster, it was amazing !

@@johnfellows2867 I find that imaginiation usually fills in the gaps :)

sounds really cool!

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks :D

Thanks! I'm using the included stand for these kits, so it would look weird if they were flying without pilots :P

Thanks for the suggestion! I do feature some seam cleanup and removal in some of my other (more recent) videos, this one is quite old now so i've learnt a lot since then

That's a great idea! I'd never thought to do that before - a top tip! Thanks :)

I think the version that comes on its own from airfix, suggests a mix of different white paints - and the nose cowling has a blue tint to it, rather than being just black!

Yes, that's a good idea! I always use the blunt end of my scalpel :P

Model Minutes that can result in an accidental scrape that will leave marks or make it look like shattrered glass

Yes, you're right - so far i've been super careful and avoided doing that - but maybe it would be a good idea to suggest a safer way in my next video :)

Model Minutes yeah, it would be the best

Thanks for the info!

yeah, sometimes i do this

Yeah, it doesn't seem right to me - I'm pretty sure that the other kits Airfix make, in the instructions they recommend mixing paints up to make them more white. Also, the black nose should have a blue tint to it . . .

I believe it is more a white that blends into a light grey, as it moves down the fuselage towards the tail.

In the museum at Pearl Harbor, there is a Mitsubishi Zero restored to look like one that attacked Pearl Harbor. It looks like a gloss pistachio green, and written witness accounts concur using words like light pea green. I seem to recall it actually did a forced landing somewhere in or near Hawaii minutes after the attack. The main stream photos of the Mitsubishi Zeros that attacked Pearl Harbor appear to be white or light gray (with a black cowling, and so forth) because they are black and white photos. What I will say next will send your head spinning. Airfix beige green is as accurate as you can buy without using a special formula recommended by one of two investigators analyzing old wreckage. You would have to mix it yourself with a handful of other Hornby Humbrol acrylic colors. The recommendation to use Humbrol beige green was a thoughtful, and knowledgeable one. Even though it might be a slightly different shade, the gray green recommended by Tamiya is also as accurate as you can buy without using a special formula to mix it yourself. The recommendation to use Tamiya gray green (also spelled grey green) was also thoughtful, and knowledgeable one. The same could be said about gray green made by other manufacturers. At some point, the decision becomes a matter of interpretation. Most people have no idea how the oxidation from a few days (let alone years) of exposure to the Pacific Ocean can impact the interpretation or analysis of a color.

Yeah, i've seen that! It's the same kits and paint schemes but also the Bomber too! It's a bit more expensive (nearly twice the price) but it doesn't seem to be in stock any more on the Airfix Website

Model Minutes was the 75th anniversary of Pearl Harbor set, came out 2016. Don't keep them in production long, especially anniversary sets. Like the Falklands 30th anniversary set in 2012. Imagine acrylic paints may tend to dry out so they don't want them on the shelves too long so limit production somewhat. Personally, would buy the sets even if paints weren't included. Personally don't use them, just like the idea of adversary kits together.

thanks!

Yeah, I agree. Sounds like you had a bad fuselage part there, maybe they'd have some in the spares department . . . I wasn't too sure about the prop, i'm glad it's not just me who had issues with it! Small issues though, and you still end up with a great looking kit :)

Awesome! Welcome to the hobby :). If You feel the extra details need highlighting, then yes, it's definitely worth doing. But if you're happy (like i was in this video) then don't feel it's necessary

Model Minutes thank you

that is a possibility, but perhaps the glue won't bond so well

Konstantinos V. How to use decalfix correctly: Throw it in the bin, get microset and microsol.

that is true. LOL

Yeah, i used to use decalfix without water - but found I went through a bottle incredibly quickly as it gets soaked up by the backing paper. The way I did it in the video just helps me conserve my supplies longer, and still gets the decalfix to act properly on the decal. I do have microsol/set solution too, but again using up my decalfix on easier kits - i'll crack open the other stuff on more difficult/intricate kits :)

I use decalfix for a weathering effect by making a undercoat of the colour I want the chips to be then paint over that afterwards I use the decal fix to strip of the top layer of paint creating a worn/chipped effect

Thanks! Sadly not, but I would like to in the future - when I have cleared some of my stash

thanks :D

Airfix recommends humbrol 90 for the entire aircraft as they don't make a more suitable colour

Base layer of cockpit colour then top layer of camouflage colour. The aim is to make the inside of the frames look like they were painted on the inside like in real life. Personally I don’t really care as I’m probably never going to see the inside of the canopy after it’s built

@@ModelMinutes Ah ok. That makes sense. I agree I’ll probably save that technique for any big builds or something I do in great detail as most of my 1:72s you don’t see inside very much. Thanks

Thanks!

I tend to use both acrylic and enamel versions. Satin acrylic before the application of decals, then enamel matt/satin (depending on the desired finish) afterwards to help protect them before applying an acrylic wash

I'd use some masking tape to get that really nice straight line, and start by painting the white first, then black second

Thanks!⚫️⚪️

FlexedHickory35, After setting the Way-Back time machine to 27 May 1940, Engage the Luftwaffe squadrons before they reach Dunkerque. The black and white bottom-side of your Vickers Supermarine Spitfire Mk. 1a will have the perfect camouflage for the battle.

I'd love to get both an airbrush and kits from eduard, unfortunately i've not been able to do so yet

Zero has an easier paint scheme

I've got one in my stash - hopefully I'll be able to start it soon! :)

Yeah, it's been released on its own

Thanks for watching! The panel lines aren't particularly deep on this model, but a thinner layer of paint would have helped with that problem

I think that both companies have their strengths

Firstly, welcome to the hobby! I'm sure that you'll get involved when your son does! Airfix can be a good starting point as many of their Starter Set kits have fewer parts and fit together well. Not only that, but they come with cement, paint brush and enough acrylic paints to get a good finish. Revell also do starter sets with cement and paints etc, but sometimes they have some older models in the kit, which are more difficult to assemble. A couple of Airfix starter sets would be a good point to begin. In my videos you'll see that you may also need a sharp hobby knife/scalpel to remove parts from the sprues, a nail file to smooth any rough parts, something to protect the surface you're working on (newspaper will do) and a pot to put some water in for cleaning brushes (i tend to use a yoghurt pot). Have a look on my channel for more beginner guides - they might help give you more information, but the things i've listed are the bare basics. I hope this helps :)

@@ModelMinutes Thank you very much, using a file to deburr rough edges never crossed my mind until you mentioned it in the video. I'm definitely going through your uploads with him to get some ideas! Thanks again for the response!

Glad I could be some help! :) I'd be interested to know how you get on :)

@@ModelMinutes please get a high quality sprue cutter - much better than a knife

@@rosskarp8100 you should look at my more recent videos for a better look at the current tools I use. This video is 3 years old so I think I might have added a few tools since then

I hope more people will use scissor-like sprue cutters or scissor-like side cutters in beginner videos because using a scissor-like hand tool is a much safer way to cut parts from a sprue than a hobby knife. Ironically, sprue cutters and side cutters are often used in videos that are not oriented toward beginners. An old saying is "Pain is a, good teacher." I want to hit the people who say it, so I will punch myself in the face one time for all concerned. "Lo siento" literally translates from Spanish to English as "it I feel"; however, a proper translation is "I am sorry". While I am on a rant, please use a protective mask / respirator when you use solvent based paint thinners or lacquer paints. Your comment was helpful to beginners, and serves as a wise reminder to the advanced "glue trooper". Thank you.

@@ieatoutoften872 I was using a scalpel it was very hard plastic to cut so that’s why I accidentally cut my self

@@ieatoutoften872 also I don’t use sprue cutters and I don’t use those paints and don’t bother with a mask when using thinner 😂

sad times

yup, early build. Check out some more recent videos and I hope you would notice an improvement

@@ModelMinutes Indeed! But hey, at least this shows what a beginner can expect to achieve. Thank you for your videos!

@@bobonajbolji Thanks for watching them :)

thanks for the info!

:)