Thanks! One of these days I'll record an update :)

Fancy seeing you

I somehow missed this comment: No, no filing needed. In some cases you'll need to get rid of the pins that center the two halves of the gearbox, as shown in the official assembly video.

Very. I have two and I ordered the second one after this video and the game that same weekend. First unit was a complete kit and the second just the unit, obviously :)

where u got it from ? directly from gate?

I got them from Patrolbase in the UK.

I like the fact that you are consistent with your comments :D

In the Gate Control Station software, under the SENSORS tab, check what sensor position is acting as trigger. There are five of them 1 being the shortest pull and 5 being the longest. In my case position 1 is already covered by the resting trigger, so I had to choose 2 as firing sensor.

@ Thank for your reply. What I ment was it looks as though you have a positive trigger stop point. Or is yours the same as mine with a long trigger travel but on the highest sensitivity?

Yeah, there's no physical stop. I just pull until it shoots. Controlled trigger pull can be learned, though. I haven't thought of any system to accomplish this, but if I find something I'll make a video about it.

@@stuartlathe2310 Maxx triggers have a screw that you can adjust to set/shorten the overtravel of the trigger

13:1 gears alone will make a huge difference in trigger response, but the trigger pull will be longer by default. There are ways to stop your trigger farther back though. To be able to spam it you just need a nice responsive torque motor and proper shimming, then any MOSFET with brake that stops after each cycle. As you can see in the first part of the video, the response is good, it just gets better with the TITAN.

Iñigo Zapata thanks

Anytime :)

I would first check the motor connections. They jolt quite a bit with each shot and the cables might be going on and off. I had one motor spade break, even.

I don't specially like them :)

I know and feel the difference. It seems to me it's quite evident. I don't think regular MOSFETs are more reliable, and certainly not WAY more reliable. I've burned more regular MOSFETs than PROGRAMMABLE (keyword) ETUs, which I'm yet to see go puff. Gate, Perun and even T238 cheap units that can be bought for 28€ all work fine. At that price point, using old style MOSFETs makes no sense at all. Higher end brands like this Titan are totally a user's option, but choosing the trigger break point, the RoF, the burst size or the precocking is something a regular MOSFET will never do. Can you get a good trigger response on 11.1v, 18:1, good wires, perfect setup and a cheap MOSFET? Sure. I did them a lot TEN YEARS AGO :) Time to move on.

@ 3 of my friends moved on and installed optical drop-in mosfets with tons of nice features. All of them had troubles with ETUs. Sometimes replica just doesn't shoot and they try different batteries to start it up. One of their Perun mosfets was sent to manufacturer because it just stopped working, programming issue which cannot be reset by user. My replicas with PicoSSR mosfet never let me down and I don't feel that I'm at disadvantage when playing vs. my friends.

@ yes, there is a difference, but most popular ETUs (Perun) are extremely overpriced, and less known ETUs (T238) are suspicious and there is not much info about their reliability. I want to risk and buy optical T238 for my MP5K because as you might know trigger in v3 GB is horrible and it locks up on semi. But I'm doing that because it's very hard to fix v3 GB mechanically. Trigger in v2 GB is short, crisp and doesn't lock up on semi, so I'm totally happy with powerful battery and simple mosfet.

@@kord2003 You can lock V2s as badly as V3s. It just takes a lazy motor and a big spring. Give the T238s a go. I have installed four optical V3s and they work really nicely, and the Facebook T238 group is very helpful. But as in everything in this life, technical work has to be done properly. Your friends' ETUs should work as mines do. Let me know if you try the T238 or see you around on FB!

@ Thanks, I'll try it

I doubt the gears themselves are turning any faster, since it's the same setup, but the trigger response and trigger travel make a difference for sure. The whole thing is probably providing current quicker than with the regular MOSFET too.

Hi there! You will always want the MOSFET (any kind) to be the electronic gate between your trigger contacts and the battery. In short, the trigger closes the circuit, the MOSFET takes the order to open and it allows the current to flow from the battery. There are some units that simply go between the gun connector and the battery connector but I wouldn't recommend any of those. This upgrade won't break anything in your gun. You can use it with the default parts, but it benefits greatly from some changes, like in the video: faster gears and torque motor mainly. Proper adjustment and air seal are a must whatever you do. About the cheaper guns... I wouldn't spend this much in a "bad" shell with regular parts. Find at least something with a good price/quality.

Iñigo Zapata Thank you so much for your comment! I always wanted to have an honest opinion from an experienced player like you because most shops just want your money

If you are not doing it yourself, find someone that explains to you everything they want to do and why. You should be able to find a place that is worthy of your trust :)

Iñigo Zapata Hey it‘s me again xD. What brand do you recommend if I only want to build in the mosfet without upgrading any other parts? I know that g&p for example has some high speed gears and torque up motors. Do you have any recommendations? Thanks!

@@Tkcb2799 Wow, I missed this one, so you probably already had 2-3 guns in between comments :D G&Ps are nice, but the default motors are speed motors, not torque, and default gears in most guns are 18:1. You'll want 16:1 or 13:1 gears and some nice torquey motor.

Para engranajes de 13:1 con un motor de par como el SHS hi-torque, Lonex A2, G&G Ifrit 25k etc. 7.4v es más que suficiente. Ya ves que la ráfaga de tres es más que rápida. Con 11.1v tendrías que tener en cuenta que el pistón no va a volver a tiempo y habría riesgo de que se enganche entre disparos. El gatillo electrónico de G&G no permite configurar la velocidad del motor en la ráfaga... Si vas a jugar exclusivamente en semi no tendrás problemas, pero tienes que ver si la respuesta de gatillo con 7.4v es lo que buscas o si necesitas 11.1v. En mi caso no es necesario. Baterías LiPo para tubo tienes en gran variedad. Cualquiera de 120x15x15 ó 120x15x20 debería entrar sin problemas, e incluso más largas.

Iñigo Zapata Muchismas gracias por contestar, definitivamente me voy a quedar con una buena 7,4 porque de por si la respuesta es muy buena y prefiero que la réplica no sufra tanto con la 11,1. Un saludo

Hola ya que he visto que eres español me gustaría preguntarte algo que ajustes se consideran los mejores para un gatillo electrónico tengo un jefftron v2 no se que poner, si activar el freno activo activar o desactivar el precooking para que no se ataquen los disparos en semi si me puedes ayudar te lo agradecería ^^

@@angelviedmasanchez Hola. Me perdí este comentario, perdona. El freno activo siempre es interesante, porque hace el ciclo más consistente con las paradas en el mismo punto. Precocking es cuestión de gustos. Cualquier gatillo electrónico te va a salvar de atascos en semi si tienes el freno activado. El precocking no es necesario para ese problema en concreto.

G&G Ifrit 25k.

Hi. Your Titan unit is inside the gearbox, so it's not easily visible. You can program it with a USB dongle that Gate sells, or the older programming card, through the Deans connector.

@ oh okay thank you so much, also can this mosfet easily handle a 11.1v Lipo?

@@cndubz3413 Yes, it will.

I have since rebuilt it in a Gate gearbox, but it sounded fine before. Recordings with phones are not the best anyway.

If you are confident in your shimming, check that the pistol grip is not moving the bearings of the bevel when inserted or changing the angle of the motor because it rubs against the body. For the first cause, check that the inside of the grip is not touching the bearings of the bevel gear, and carve a relief if that's the case. They shouldn't touch at all. For the second, check this: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/o5apiJCQ1di-qY0.html Let me know if any of those things were the problem, thanks!

Thank you. I've done a complete revamp on the gearbox. The stock gears had a bit of slack (4 yr use), and the cylinder was filled with gunk. SHS motor died (it ate through both brushes and stator and lost 1 coil) and I had to set back to stock high-speed. Ordered guarder high torque as these are famous for robustness. -changed o-rings and gears (now SHS 18:1) -clean up and grease -shimming The results are flawless. There is one reservation though - pre-cocking reduces accuracy. Any idea why?

Pre-cocking pre-loads the spring and piston and also moves the tappet plate, which carries the nozzle. If your nozzle is not keeping pressure correctly you might be losing compression at that point. Chrono the gun with and without pre-cocking and see if there are FPS drops. With the same amount of air the BBs should fly the same, so the only reason I can think of is changes in air volume due to a leak, in this case in the nozzle.

Oh I know why now. SHS bevel has 6 anti-reverse notches instead of 2 of G&P. This results in piston and nozzle stop in somewhat random positions (cocked piston position varying by ~10 mm). Will see how I fix it.

However, a six positions ARL is better than a two positions one. Once the cycle is complete the TITAN should stop the process in the same point everytime. There has to be a problem with the pre-cocking then. I know it doesn't work well with 19-teeth pistons in the SR25, for example.

Any MOSFET with brake should do the trick. This unit is wonderful though, but to correct that specific problem you don't need to spend that much.

Just replying so anyone who sees this knows the correct info: while active breaking mosfets work, they cause your motor to work harder and makes them heat up pretty quick. A better way to help stop over spin is getting a stiffer spring(stronger) and then if your FPS is too high for your field limit or just higher than where you want it to be, this is where short stroking comes into play. Short stroking only lowers fps, it does NOT stop over spin. It’ll give better trigger response (slightly) because less teeth have to be cycled when it pulls the piston. You remove teeth on the PICKUP side, NEVER the release side of the sector gear. Each tooth removal (don’t quote me, do your own research I may be a bit off) takes off about 20 fps. Say you have 10 teeth on the sector gear for the sake of an example. Removing 2 on the PICKUP side(side that first engages with piston teeth) should take off roughly 40 fps. Stiffer springs also help with pre engagement, it returns the piston quicker. Getting a polycarb piston like the SHS full metal rack ones helps too, lightened of course. Further Swiss cheesing May help.

​@@reapermedia1937 Your explanation of short stroking is spot on, but it doesn't really solve the problem of overspin by itself, because just using a stiffer spring doesn't solve the problem in some cases. Sub 300fps guns (which are used here for CQB) or even ~350 guns might still overspin on a harder spring, because it won't really be that hard. Also, 1-2 teeth removal is easy. Three and up is tricky and requires more knowledge and a finer setup or you risk pre-engagement, which again, will happen in 300-350fps guns easily. It's still fine for 400fps and up guns, but I personally wouldn't bother, because... The short and easier solution is still using an AB MOSFET. Will your motor live a shorter life? Sure. How much? Well, I spam semi on mines for thousands of rounds and I'm yet to change one. That's simply YEARS of games for the price of a motor. Believe me, there are many things that can and will die before your motor gives up, and then there's the brushless ones, that don't give a F ;)

You could also use a lower power lipo . Exp if you use an 11.1 go to a 7.5 and it will olso stop the overcycling .

Por lo que veo en las fotos de la caja de engranajes, me da la impresión de que no es posible . Ese modelo de KWA tiene una caja no estándar, con paredes que rodean los engranajes y no habría sitio para el módulo de Gate.

@ te agradezco la información saludos

A MOSFET is an electronic gate or switch. In some cases it can improve the way current flows from the battery to the motor, making the whole process more optimized and therefore working faster. In this case the mechanical parts are the same, but the gun feels more lively, so the electronics make a difference in speed and response.

If the mosfet has the pre-cocking feature it can significantly improve the trigger response.

Never. We've been actually playing every weekend this winter and it's always worked fine. The main problem with cold is battery performance, not electronics, usually.

@ Outdoor play? What is the temperature?

@@gunnman5 Always outdoor. Above freezing in the early morning these last months.

@ ok I think my problem is under zero, or else warm but wet outside moist air. let me know if you try it in those conditions, under zero and or raining. :)

@@gunnman5 I've played with rain many, many times, no problem. Cold is usually hard on batteries, but not electronics. Maybe you have a condensation problem? I see how that could upset the optical sensors.

I'll add a third option: Perun v2 optical ;)

Of course. I shimmed it as perfectly as possible, and greased internally with proper greases/oils in the right amounts.

Sounds absolutely fine, not every gun can sound death silent. Even the motor grip can already fuck a lot with the sound, that is even where most sound comes from, pinion and bevel.

As far as I know, the only optical Leviathan is for V3, but it should be comparable, yes. Mind you, the advantage of an optical switch is the absence of wear in contacts/switches and the software adjustment of the trigger pull. Other than that, good trigger response can be had with other electronic triggers as well.

@ I know, i was just saying how it’s weird to call it a regular mosfet when it’s pretty much the same price as the titan. A better comparison would be like a regular 3034 MOSFET without cycle detection.

@@APFSDS-DU You might be confused here. The MOSFET in that gun was not a Leviathan. It was a cheap $25 MOSFET with brake I bought and installed years ago.

@ ahhhh okay, definitely my bad lol

I do have one. VFC SCAR H conversion. Not the same thing by a long mile.

I have had a polar star and this is much better or just get a systema that’s the best way

Genuwine6799G expensive when I can get the same performance from a titan and a decent gearbox. My gun is 500 and i feel it performs better than a lot of polar stars