Thank you for the comment! I have a lot of different things going on with it right now and should have some more content coming up soon.

Thank you!!!

Thank you Rvator23 and glad to hear they help. I wish you the best in both of your renos on both trailers and hopefully goes as smooth for you as Dustie has been for me :)

Thank you very much for your comments. I really appreciate it. I will continue to post every step of the way, hope yours is coming along nicely as well.

Thank you Michael, much appreciated!

Thank you Jeffrey Schmidt!

Much appreciated for stopping by; actually posting a series of videos starting this weekend as I have gotten to finally editing a bunch to be released on a weekly basis. Definitely best of luck on yours and if ever if you have questions don’t hesitate to stop here or on the Instagram page and send me a message. The answer to your questions is I actually used butyl tape for each panel replacement. Where the corners met more than one panel, I also used sika flex in those areas with the butyl tape to fill in voids I thought the butyl tape may not have covered which in the end the butyl tape did actually and the sika flex was not needed but is there as a secondary. I rough installed subfloor by laying out the plywood subfloor I cut and epoxy sealed to the frame and then installed c channel between frame and subfloor and installed some center brackets where subfloor met in center which I have another video on explains all that. Once everything was aligned I went around and installed wood to metal screws to the frame of the trailer and then lowered the actual shell of the trailer until it aligned with outside c channel with the previous rivet holes. I was able to utilize the same holes of the rivets I drilled out by utilizing the rivet removal tool I picked up at Air parts Inc. Let them know Dc higher ground sent ya if you do buy one and they will take care of you! Best of luck again and thanks for the comment

I can’t speak for everyone else but the reason I’m doing it this way is two reasons and just my opinion only. If you install your trim pieces and seal every panel appropriately, you will never have to worry about leaks; which is why slow and patience is alway good when sealing and fixing any mistakes you see that you know should be fixed regardless of how tired we get or how long the day was working on it. Being methodically about ever centimeter. The belly pan is the most exposed panels of the entire trailer and will deteriorate the fastest especially in certain parts of the country in adverse weather driving. To replace one panel or multiple panels doing the shell over the bell pan would then have to make you remove the shell in entirety to replace a belly pan. To remove a shell, interior walls and interior pieces have to be removed to get to the outriggers that have the shell bolted down. If belly pan is on the outside of the shell, than you can replace the belly panel(s) without all that removal work for just a panel replacement that will happen well before any exterior skin panel. The second reason I chose this route as well is because the frame is the heart of the trailer where electrical wires plumbing is usually ran for various things. I want to ensure at the very end that all electrical works and all plumbing is good and still leak proof before I finally seal and close it all up. Last thing I want is to find out electrical or plumbing is not working for whatever reason and I’m tearing out belly pan panels, where I can just wait and do all final testing and then button and seal it all up at the end.