Yes 100%

@@dcdvs1583 so you telling me I could remove rivets from a Glock magazine with this tool❓I’m off to order one now

It’s actually purple squares that I cut out from polystyrene board insulation. My end cap video shows it more up close and talks more in depth about that area

I did the Galanz 10 cu. ft. Retro Frost Free Top Freezer Refrigerator in Black from local Home Depot store

@@dcdvs1583 Ok okay thank you. I was looking into converting a chest freezer 3cu to a fridge. Using a temp controller a little more affordable and energy saver.

I have a ton of video footage that I’ll be going through editing and posting soon; Dustie is 99% complete. In process of putting last few pieces of underbelly in which will be wrapped up by end of coming weekend and then a final polish before taking it out on the road. I’ve been posting only photo updates on my instagram for about the last 12 months which was hit and miss for me with work and some other projects I needed to do as well. Instagram page has a lot of photo updates of Dustie over the last several months

The efficiency method for insulation I used worked flawlessly. It’s keep great warmth in the winter without really having to use a heater, and when it gets cold(below 39 degrees Fahrenheit; I use the electric wood fireplace heater I installed and run it for about 30 minutes and the inside will get upwards of 85 plus degrees and hold for several hours. Summer time is the same; I run AC for about an hour and get the inside down to 72 degrees when it’s 110 average outside. If I don’t open windows or doors, inside will stay 72-74 for around 6 hours before I would run it again for a few minutes. I highly recommend this method and wouldn’t change a thing with the method I used in my opinion. Actually super happy with the results

@@dcdvs1583 Thank you so much for the quick response. Im sold lol.

The insulation technique actually works flawlessly. I’ve found through 100+ temps in summer as well as cold down to 38 degrees only so far. Believe it or not the trailer in the winter stays pretty warm without a heater. If I turn on the electric fireplace I can only run it maybe 30 minutes before it gets too hot. In the summer it keeps cooler than outside but if its high temps definitely rely need a ac on for about a hour and then can last about 5-6 hours before I would have to kick AC back on

@@dcdvs1583 awesome thank you very much for the feedback!! Nice work!

@@bigwixenergy thank you very much and good luck with your project; if you have any questions please don’t hesitate to reach out

I did. After trimming it I went back in after and applied a new coat of epoxy to the areas no longer protected from trimming. Top and bottom and all edges of sub floor was all epoxy

I made another video after I made this video that is my most popular video call rivet removal tool. It’s a tool I came across after I filmed this video that actually makes removing any rivet way easier than utilizing the chisel method. That video will explain and show you how to remove any rivet with the tool that you can find over @ air parts inc dot com. Let them know dchigherground sent ya for the tool and they will take care of you!

At 45 seconds of the video I describe exactly which hanger bolts I used from Home Depot and how I cut them down and installed them. Here is the link direct on their webpage www.homedepot.com/p/1-4-in-20-tpi-x-2-in-Coarse-Standard-Steel-Plain-Hanger-Bolts-4-Pack-809321/204273740

@@dcdvs1583 Thank you SOOOO much for the quick reply! And thank you for such easy to understand and very detailed content, your videos are helping so much with my airstream renovation. 🙏

I disagree but every one has an opinion. Wood floors will allow the trailer to flex as it drives down the highway without being to rigid which could lead to internal damage to things either fixed to the floor or the interior panels. Also weight is a factor. My goal was to get the entire trailer under 2,650 pounds total weight which was actually accomplished and verified at a certified weigh scale that was also registered with the California Highway Patrol and Department of Motor vehicles which will an a upcoming video that was filmed out about 11 months ago when the process was all complete. My 1957 Chevy truck will be towing this trailer around so all the less weight the better too.

Red guard is actually just as good as an option as epoxy. The real reason was cost. After price difference I want to say I would have saved about $50 in cost as far as my estimates. Not that big of a difference but when you add those small savings in a full restoration you’ll find it saves thousands in the end. My video on cost of restoring a trailer shows the difference of price estimations and what I saved when buying. Hope that helps

@@dcdvs1583 thank you...yes your price video was excellent.as.well....i would have thought the epoxy was more....I have only the limited experience of doing one shower install with red guard but it impressed me when I pulled out a rubber mold of a paint tray after we finished applying it and left it to cure in the tray...it even had some elasticity.

Thanks for the comment! My work schedule finally has slowed down so I should be uploading more videos soon. If you ever have questions in your process just let me know! Good luck

The purple squares are from foam board that’s 1 1/2” thick which is the precise gap between outer panels of the trailer and the interior panels of the trailer and the purple squares cut and put in like I did will ensure the encap panels don’t warp or concave from improper space gaping of insulation. Over time the actual 12 end cap panels will warp and move if the gaps are not even across which is really hard to guarantee with the r-21 reflective insulation with all the curves in those areas which is more for flat square surfaces. The end caps on this trailer will be more on display than what most people do which is putting storage cabinets back in the end caps areas which this process could ultimately be skipped but still run risk of warping and concaving with cabinets installed. Hope that helps answer your question. Thanks for checking out my videos

I just installed up by hand by myself. Started on one corner, aligned and mounted with a cleco. Then pulled panel on opposite side and opposite corner until it aligned and installed cleco then slowly one hole at a time started drilling and installing utilizing the rivet alignment tool to get the uniform perfect professional look.

Awesome

I ran a grounding wire to each one. I actually installed a direct ground on the frame of trailer underneath that I never explained in any videos and probably should have. From that direct connection of ground on the frame I ran a ground wire to inside of the trailer at the front inside and had three grounded directs connected there for inside electrical. One ground wire was direct from the 110v electrical panel distribution, 2nd direct ground wire was from the 12v panel distribution box and the 3rd wire was direct from the 7 wire junction box for the external lights and brakes etc. Prior to install of insulation and interior panels; I connected a truck for the 7 wire trailer plug as well as a camp outlet cable to a camp 50Amp distribution panel to verify electrical was working properly before installing panels and insulation which everything worked perfect. Only thing at the time that I didn’t have installed for electrical was the solar; but later on when I installed it, I had zero issues with tying it into the main electrical distribution panel inside the trailer as well as connecting to the battery storage which the trailer now runs sufficiently of the battery storage from the installed flexible solar panels on the roof of the trailer.

@@dcdvs1583 Ok good to know, I like that approach to your grounding. I've seen problems with exterior lights concerning ground connections at each location. I'm not going to be doing solar, but would like to pre wire for the roof top panels. You have any advice on wire size and locations to install?

Much appreciated for the comment; lots and lots of many hours on the polishing with a final polish here soon when the trailer is officially finished

Much appreciated for stopping by; actually posting a series of videos starting this weekend as I have gotten to finally editing a bunch to be released on a weekly basis. Definitely best of luck on yours and if ever if you have questions don’t hesitate to stop here or on the Instagram page and send me a message. The answer to your questions is I actually used butyl tape for each panel replacement. Where the corners met more than one panel, I also used sika flex in those areas with the butyl tape to fill in voids I thought the butyl tape may not have covered which in the end the butyl tape did actually and the sika flex was not needed but is there as a secondary. I rough installed subfloor by laying out the plywood subfloor I cut and epoxy sealed to the frame and then installed c channel between frame and subfloor and installed some center brackets where subfloor met in center which I have another video on explains all that. Once everything was aligned I went around and installed wood to metal screws to the frame of the trailer and then lowered the actual shell of the trailer until it aligned with outside c channel with the previous rivet holes. I was able to utilize the same holes of the rivets I drilled out by utilizing the rivet removal tool I picked up at Air parts Inc. Let them know Dc higher ground sent ya if you do buy one and they will take care of you! Best of luck again and thanks for the comment

I can’t thank you enough for your comment here. Reading comments like this makes me realize I’m doing exactly what I should be doing and helping others out. Honestly I haven’t figured it out either other than the fact I only really use KZfaq and Instagram. Probably should change that but as of now I haven’t. Been working on a ton more videos to hopefully post soon and catch up everyone on Dusty. Thank you for checking out my videos and stopping by and as always if you ever have questions, comments definitely you can always comment here and I’ll definitely help anytime! Thank you again for the fuel that stokes this fire on this channel in hopes one day it will continually grow. For now I’ll keep dropping videos here from time to time and hopefully get more steady at posting them more consistently.

Anytime. I hope to see more videos in the future. They're a great resource for people wanting to take Airstream restoration seriously.

Thank you!!!

3M Super 77 adhesive spray.

You are correct, it is Danny! Much appreciated for your feedback, comments like this continue to fuel me on making more. Lots of work has been done and a ton of videos on the way again. Should be hitting the channel in about two weeks or so. Thanks again for your kind words and best of luck on yours! As always If you ever have questions don’t hesitate to reach out

I did not cut out a section of the frame. What I did instead was weld a 3 inch piece of channel on both sides on the rear of the frame on the bottom side of the frame. That section will sit 3 inches lower than the rest of the frame where the tanks plumbing meets the three way hub which the channel piece I welded is is actually notched and cut out. There’s also a hole to the right towards rear also drilled out where the flush hose for flushing black tank was installed. When I install the belly pan soon I’ll explain that section for the video. Hope that helps and answers your questions

Minus a few exterior panels that were not replaced and the windows; this trailer was completely built brand new from the frame up! Everything is completely new from outside in. Appreciate the feedback and watching my videos

I replaced them because they had pre existing holes from various things that was installed to get things like electrical and propane into the interior. The front panel had a old style camp plugin that I didn’t want to have or use and the one I did was smaller than original hole. The side panel had a hole for the furnace originally which I decided not have and go full electric. Plus a few other holes of various things I wasn’t going to use. The rear actually had a hole from the original bathroom leak and had to be replaced for sure. I decided instead of patching the panels why not just replace them and have a cleaner look especially since I planned on polishing the entire exterior which has been done now.

@@dcdvs1583 Thank you for the explanation, I really enjoyed the video.

It’s actually Butyl Repair Putty Tape Grey that I picked up from high sky rv parts dot com. It’s actually exactly what you need when over lapping metal panels for the perfect seal to keep moisture out etc. the Butyl Repair Putty Tape has adhesive tape on both side to keep from the roll molding into itself. You can peel one side off and put to metal panel and once lined up you take the second adhesive parts off before over lapping the second panel on top of the first one.

Thank you!

I did not really capture that video on how I did it, but definitely will discuss it here. After many trials of rough fitting…once I got to the point where I thought I was ready to install, I used black paint on the rim lip of the threaded inserts on the top side of the tank. I then quickly put the subfloor in position and then pressed down on subfloor where I knew it would be installed to trailer once it was all lined up. I removed subfloor and flipped to underside to find where the tank ports would meet through sub floor from the paint marks. I cut 1/4” out past the paint marks and everything found perfect alignment. Hope that description helps and makes complete understanding. If not let me know and I’ll try to be more specific

@@dcdvs1583 man I appreciate you explaining that. I was racking my brain how you lined it all up so perfectly

@@GeoffHardcastle no problem anytime! And good luck on your end, if you ever have questions or need to bounce a idea off of, don’t hesitate to reach out as always

Yes It will work on those rivets that are used for a guitar case

@@dcdvs1583 Awesom, many thanks!

It was Top Secret until this comment! Who told you??? Lol

Haha I can not confirm or deny my whereabouts

Each piece was cut at 11 1/2 inches wide by 4 feet long. There is a total of a 11 pieces that need to be cut to these rough measurements meaning you need a sheet of 4 feet by 11 feet for each end cap. When I laid it out I measured roughly from bottom edge to bottom edge which if I remember correctly it was around 110” plus or minus. I installed the first piece on the bottom edge perfectly level and square to the edge. When I laid the second piece, I over lapped on top of the first piece by 1 and 7/8 inches which there was exactly 9 and 5/8 inches exposed of width of the first piece edge toward trailer center not the window edge of the panel and second piece and third piece and fourth piece working up towards to roof center line. I did this to both sides installing the four panel pieces for end cap with each panel width being 9 and 5/8’s inches wide. The remaining three I installed the same way except pieces 5 on each side only had a 8 and 3/4” width edge on each one when the 11 piece which is the center piece was installed. When the center piece was installed at center point the piece to each side being the 5th pieces for each side had 8 and 3/4 inches exposed on those panels and the final center panel I cut down to 6 3/4 inches on the window edge width and left the center roof side width at 11 1/2 inches. When installed it fit perfect and look ascetically perfect. Hope all that explanation was easy to read and understand

The .032 is exactly the panel aluminum you want. At first it seems flimsy but once it’s all riveted to the rib frames of the trailer; it’s a solid locked panel that’s no longer flimsy!

@@dcdvs1583after riveting it’s still looking flimsy but thanks for confirming

Almost. It definitely will be by year end!

Yes that would be correct, but depending on insulation install most likely you wouldn’t hear the rattle. Plus when in camp or just parked you shouldn’t hear any rattle at all.

I added the wrong link for insulation in the description, apologies. I’ll edit that now. Here is a direct link of what I bought through lowes. www.lowes.com/pd/US-Greenfiber-SANCTUARY-by-Greenfiber-R-60-Blown-In-Insulation-Sound-Barrier/5001939515

Also FYI, one bag of the insulation was enough for me to complete both end caps.

Radiant heat is a form of heat which transfers between matter across a void or air space through electromagnetic waves rather than through convection or conduction. Radiant heat from the sun is what causes attics and other unconditioned spaces in homes or commercial buildings to be so hot during the warmer seasons. When there is not a radiant barrier of reflective insulation present in these spaces, radiation from the sun beats down on the roof and is absorbed by roofing materials, which transfer the heat via conduction to the indoor ceiling of the attic, and finally radiant heat transfers from the ceiling to everything in that unconditioned space. Certain materials - like plywood, sheet metal etc, have properties that make them strong radiators, meaning that they emit a lot of radiant heat, causing high temperatures in attics and other similar spaces like a airstream trailer as well. Reflective insulation serves as a barrier against this radiation because it is not a strong radiator, essentially stopping heat in its tracks before it reaches the indoor space. However, this only works if there is an air gap between the reflective insulation and the wall, duct, or other surface to which you are applying the insulation. Without a gap, heat will conduct from the other materials straight through the reflective insulation and into the room. Typically, materials that do not emit much radiant heat tend to be strong conductors, meaning that heat transfers quickly and easily to them when touching other hot materials. The air gap eliminates the chance of heat transferring inside via conduction and allows the radiant barrier to do its job. Hope this helps explain it. If not let me know I’ll try and answer it better if that doesn’t make sense

Makes perfect sense. Thanks!

@@vikiswynenberg8222 anytime!!!

Much appreciated for the feedback. It’s comments like this that continue to fuel me in making more videos for everyone. Thanks a bunch

Much appreciated!!!

A BIG SHOUT OUT to Airparts Inc and their entire staff! You guys are the best!!!!

@@dcdvs1583 your order is in its way! FYI you know those hundreds of clecos your buying are reusable right? Lol. Can't have enough. I'm sending you something you can wear and get dirty in the videos.. enjoy.

@@markwarner136 much appreciated I can’t wait! And yes I have a bunch right now from you, but definitely was not enough when I got to the end caps this last weekend. Only had enough to cleco 3 1/2 panels in place so wanted to grab more. I have a another video coming out on your rivet alignment tool soon! Should be another good one like rivet removal tool video!

Thank you for the comment, always a work in progress eventually will see the light at the end of the tunnel! Good luck in your project!!!

Travis absolutely you can: you can email me at [email protected] in the attention or subject line just add dchigherground and I’ll be on the lookout for it!

Wish I could but without them the sun blinds me. Eyes are too sensitive to light and can’t keep them open outside without them.