I just made a comment to Michael in depth I hope helps you as well. Appreciate your feedback and comment and glad to hear my videos are helping! I wish you the best of luck in your renovation/restoration project. If you ever have question or comments don’t hesitate to reach out as always! Thanks again

The insulation technique actually works flawlessly. I’ve found through 100+ temps in summer as well as cold down to 38 degrees only so far. Believe it or not the trailer in the winter stays pretty warm without a heater. If I turn on the electric fireplace I can only run it maybe 30 minutes before it gets too hot. In the summer it keeps cooler than outside but if its high temps definitely rely need a ac on for about a hour and then can last about 5-6 hours before I would have to kick AC back on

@@dcdvs1583 awesome thank you very much for the feedback!! Nice work!

@@bigwixenergy thank you very much and good luck with your project; if you have any questions please don’t hesitate to reach out

The purple squares are from foam board that’s 1 1/2” thick which is the precise gap between outer panels of the trailer and the interior panels of the trailer and the purple squares cut and put in like I did will ensure the encap panels don’t warp or concave from improper space gaping of insulation. Over time the actual 12 end cap panels will warp and move if the gaps are not even across which is really hard to guarantee with the r-21 reflective insulation with all the curves in those areas which is more for flat square surfaces. The end caps on this trailer will be more on display than what most people do which is putting storage cabinets back in the end caps areas which this process could ultimately be skipped but still run risk of warping and concaving with cabinets installed. Hope that helps answer your question. Thanks for checking out my videos

I ran a grounding wire to each one. I actually installed a direct ground on the frame of trailer underneath that I never explained in any videos and probably should have. From that direct connection of ground on the frame I ran a ground wire to inside of the trailer at the front inside and had three grounded directs connected there for inside electrical. One ground wire was direct from the 110v electrical panel distribution, 2nd direct ground wire was from the 12v panel distribution box and the 3rd wire was direct from the 7 wire junction box for the external lights and brakes etc. Prior to install of insulation and interior panels; I connected a truck for the 7 wire trailer plug as well as a camp outlet cable to a camp 50Amp distribution panel to verify electrical was working properly before installing panels and insulation which everything worked perfect. Only thing at the time that I didn’t have installed for electrical was the solar; but later on when I installed it, I had zero issues with tying it into the main electrical distribution panel inside the trailer as well as connecting to the battery storage which the trailer now runs sufficiently of the battery storage from the installed flexible solar panels on the roof of the trailer.

@@dcdvs1583 Ok good to know, I like that approach to your grounding. I've seen problems with exterior lights concerning ground connections at each location. I'm not going to be doing solar, but would like to pre wire for the roof top panels. You have any advice on wire size and locations to install?

The efficiency method for insulation I used worked flawlessly. It’s keep great warmth in the winter without really having to use a heater, and when it gets cold(below 39 degrees Fahrenheit; I use the electric wood fireplace heater I installed and run it for about 30 minutes and the inside will get upwards of 85 plus degrees and hold for several hours. Summer time is the same; I run AC for about an hour and get the inside down to 72 degrees when it’s 110 average outside. If I don’t open windows or doors, inside will stay 72-74 for around 6 hours before I would run it again for a few minutes. I highly recommend this method and wouldn’t change a thing with the method I used in my opinion. Actually super happy with the results

@@dcdvs1583 Thank you so much for the quick response. Im sold lol.

R-21 insulation has a higher density and is more efficient at preventing the transfer of heat than typical fiberglass, rigid foam and denim. Reflectix is different than traditional insulating foil because it’s double-sided and isn’t just a normal foil insulation. This material has an install temperature of: * -60F at the lowest * 180F at the highest It also allows for heat and light to be reflected which will keep spaces cooler or warmer, depending on the usage. It’s Class A fire rating to reduce the risks of fire. 97%+ radiant energy reflection to keep radiant energy from altering interior heating and cooling efforts. Moisture and humidity do not have an impact on the material because of the vapor and radon retarder properties the insulation carries. Mold and mildew growth are kept at bay, allowing for less worry in older metal applications especially where original panels are not being replaced and kept as such. Above all installation process can be done in shorts and shirt without worrying to make a mess, get itchy or wait for things to dry and then have to cut to fit again. In the end the overall weight of the the reflective was the least as well by about 37% next to the next lightest weight. I also used more layers then what the application called for but I wanted to make sure it was completely insulated and by utilizing the 5 layers and the way I did; between utilizing the air gaps i did between the layers of insulation, it will allow for cooler summers and warmer winters with less usage of generating that warmth or cooling making it the best bang for your buck in my opinion. Since it has been installed I have noticed it’s cooler inside when installing the panels even in the dead of 100. You actually feel no radiant heat emitting through the roof or outer panels to the interior inside which you definitely do and I did before I insulated the interior and was working inside on other things like wiring.

Radiant heat is a form of heat which transfers between matter across a void or air space through electromagnetic waves rather than through convection or conduction. Radiant heat from the sun is what causes attics and other unconditioned spaces in homes or commercial buildings to be so hot during the warmer seasons. When there is not a radiant barrier of reflective insulation present in these spaces, radiation from the sun beats down on the roof and is absorbed by roofing materials, which transfer the heat via conduction to the indoor ceiling of the attic, and finally radiant heat transfers from the ceiling to everything in that unconditioned space. Certain materials - like plywood, sheet metal etc, have properties that make them strong radiators, meaning that they emit a lot of radiant heat, causing high temperatures in attics and other similar spaces like a airstream trailer as well. Reflective insulation serves as a barrier against this radiation because it is not a strong radiator, essentially stopping heat in its tracks before it reaches the indoor space. However, this only works if there is an air gap between the reflective insulation and the wall, duct, or other surface to which you are applying the insulation. Without a gap, heat will conduct from the other materials straight through the reflective insulation and into the room. Typically, materials that do not emit much radiant heat tend to be strong conductors, meaning that heat transfers quickly and easily to them when touching other hot materials. The air gap eliminates the chance of heat transferring inside via conduction and allows the radiant barrier to do its job. Hope this helps explain it. If not let me know I’ll try and answer it better if that doesn’t make sense

Makes perfect sense. Thanks!

@@vikiswynenberg8222 anytime!!!